We choose which front brake pads are better for the Hyundai Solaris: prices, reviews, original articles. Design features of the Hyundai Solaris brake system Hyundai Solaris rear brake cylinder device

Pay attention to the brake pad markings. Buy new pads with the same markings. Rear pads HANKOOK FRIXA for Hyundai Solaris are marked FPH26R.

To replace disc pads brake mechanism rear wheel, do the following.

Replace brake pads rear brake mechanisms only in a set of 4 pieces. (two on each side). Before replacing brake pads, check the level brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.

If the level is close to the upper mark, it is necessary to pump out some of the liquid, since after replacing the worn pads with new ones, the level will rise.

2. Loosen the rear wheel nuts on the side of the pads being replaced.

3. Raise and place the rear of the vehicle on supports. Finally unscrew the nuts and remove the wheel.

4. Remove the upper and lower bolts of the caliper guide pins, holding the pins from turning with a second wrench.

5. Remove the movable bracket from the disc without disconnecting the brake hose, and secure the bracket with wire to the suspension elements, avoiding twisting or tension on the hose.

6. Remove the outer pad from the guide...

7. ...and internal brake pads.

8. Use a screwdriver to pry...

9. ...and remove the lower and upper retaining plates from the guide pads.

Whenever you replace brake pads, be sure to check the condition of the rubber protective covers of the guide pins and the ease of movement of the caliper relative to the brake pad guide. If movement is difficult, lubricate the guide pin and its cover with grease.

10. Install a special device on the caliper and, turning screw A, press the piston into the working cylinder.

11. If there is no device, you can press the piston using sliding pliers. Be careful not to damage the piston boot.

12.Install the retaining plates in the reverse order of removal. To prevent self-turning of the caliper guide pin bolts, lubricate their threads with anaerobic thread locker before installation.

13. Press the brake pedal all the way down several times to remove the gaps in the brake mechanism that appeared after the pistons were pressed into the cylinders.

14. Install the wheel.

15. Replace the brake pads of the other rear wheel in the same way.

16. Check and, if necessary, restore the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.

After replacing worn brake pads with new ones, do not rush to immediately drive onto busy highways. It is possible that at the very first intensive braking you will be unpleasantly surprised by the low efficiency of the brakes, although you have installed branded pads. The brake discs also wear out, and the new pads only touch them at the edges, practically without braking. Choose a quiet street or passage without cars and brake smoothly several times so that the pads get used and begin to fit the entire surface. At the same time, evaluate the effectiveness of the brakes.

Try not to brake sharply for at least the first 100 km. When unused pads become very hot, the top layer of their linings burns and the brakes will not be as effective for a long time.

To replace the rear wheel drum brake pads, do the following.

Rice. 9.7. Parts of the drum brake mechanism of the rear wheel (details of the brake mechanism are shown on the left side): 1, 9 – rods of the shoe support struts; 2 – front brake block; 3, 11 – spring plates; 4 – front part of the spacer bar; 5 – upper tension spring of the pads; 6 – worker brake cylinder; 7 – back part of the spacer bar; 8 – rear brake block; 10 – release lever for the parking brake mechanism; 12 – lower tension spring; 13 – gap adjuster; 14 – clearance adjuster lever; 15 – slack adjuster lever spring

After replacing worn brake pads with new ones, do not rush to immediately drive onto busy highways. It is possible that at the first intensive braking you will be unpleasantly surprised by the low efficiency of the brakes, despite the fact that branded pads are installed. The brake drums (and discs) also wear out, and the new pads only touch them with a partial plane, practically without braking. Choose a quiet street or passage without cars and brake smoothly several times so that the pads get used and begin to fit the entire surface. At the same time, evaluate the effectiveness of the brakes.

Try not to brake sharply for at least the first 100 km. When unused pads become very hot, the top layer of their linings burns and the brakes will not be as effective as possible for a long time.

Replace rear brake pads only as a set of 4 pieces. (two on each side). Before replacing brake pads, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If the level is close to the upper mark, it is necessary to pump out some of the liquid, since after replacing the worn pads with new ones, the level will rise.

You will need: Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers, pliers.

1. Engage 1st gear (move the selector automatic transmission gears to position “P”) and install wheel chocks (“shoes”) under the front wheels.

2. Loosen the rear wheel nuts on the side of the pads being replaced.

3. Lift and install the rear part of the spring... of the car on the supports. Finally unscrew the nuts and remove the wheel.

Brake booster

Your vehicle is equipped with a power brake system that automatically adjusts itself during normal use.

If your power brake system loses power due to stalling or any other reason, you can still stop the vehicle by applying more force to the brake pedal than normal. Braking distance, however, will increase.

If the engine is not running, the braking force will gradually decrease each time the brake pedal is pressed. Do not “pump” the brake pedal if the brake booster system is not functioning correctly.

You can “pump” the brake pedal only if necessary to maintain control of the car on a slippery road.

CAREFULLY

- Brake system

Do not keep your foot on the brake pedal while driving. This will result in unacceptably high brake heating, excessive wear of the brake linings and pads, and an increase in braking distance.
On long, steep descents, shift to a lower gear and avoid using the brakes for long periods of time. Continued use of the brakes will cause them to overheat and may eventually cause temporary loss of braking force.
Wet brakes can cause the vehicle to not be able to slow down as normally and to "pull" when applied. The extent to which this effect influences braking performance can be determined by performing a small test braking test. Always check the brakes in this way after wading through a deep ford. To dry the brakes, apply them lightly while driving forward at a safe speed until normal braking performance is restored.
Always check the position of the brake and accelerator pedals before moving off.

If you have not checked the position of the accelerator and brake pedals before driving off, you may press the accelerator pedal instead of the brake pedal. This could result in a serious accident.

In case of brake failure

If the service brakes fail while the vehicle is moving, you can make an emergency stop using parking brake. The braking distance, however, will be much longer than usual.

CAREFULLY

Applying the parking brake while driving at normal speed may result in sudden loss of vehicle control. If you have to use the parking brake to stop the vehicle, be extremely careful when doing so.

Disc brake wear indicator

Your car has disc brakes.

When the brake pads are worn and need to be replaced, a high-pitched warning sound will be heard from the front or rear brakes (if equipped). This sound may come and go, or be heard every time you press the brake pedal.

Remember that under certain road conditions or climate, the first braking (or braking) may be accompanied by squealing brakes. This is normal and is not a sign of brake failure.

ATTENTION

To avoid costly brake repairs, do not drive with worn brake pads.
Always replace the brake pads as a set for the front or rear axle wheels.

CAREFULLY

- Brake wear

This brake wear warning sign indicates your vehicle needs repairs. Ignoring this audible warning will ultimately result in the brake system losing its effectiveness, which in turn may result in a serious accident.

• Electronic Stability Program (esP) (if equipped)
• Operation of the Electronic Stability Program (ESP)

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The process of servicing the Hyundai Solaris brake system is quite simple if we are familiar with the features of this model. Guide lubrication, wear control brake discs, replacing front and rear pads are simple operations that anyone can do with their own hands. It is more difficult to decide which brake pads are better for Solaris, since you can easily get confused about the brands and buy consumables of poor quality.

Which of these brake pads is better? Of course on the right, it's new.

Really, brake pads are consumables , which is replaced as it wears out. Everyone understands that the average price of a pair is 700–900 rubles will not be a guarantee that the spare part will serve long and efficiently. You can overpay only for a ringing brand and go back for repairs after 25 thousand km. And all because The pads may be selected incorrectly.

Types of front brake pads

Pads can be of several types with linings made of different materials. This affects driving comfort, mileage, and braking performance.

For example, if you choose soft pads in which the friction lining is made of organic fibers of glass, rubber, high-temperature resin, they can please you with silent operation and softness, but they can wear out very quickly.

Ceramic pads ate the brake disc on the Hyundai Solaris

On the contrary, if you buy expensive, lightweight ceramic pads, you can easily be disappointed in them - they don’t make much noise, but they grab very sharply and quickly kill the brake disc. Hence, For each driving style, for each operating conditions, you need to consciously select pads according to the material of the friction lining. And they can be like that.

What types of pads are there for Hyundai Solaris?

We will not get into the wilds and study in detail chemical compositions friction linings on Hyundai Solaris pads. Each manufacturer indicates them on the packaging, and the price can say a lot. In short, any pad, regardless of brand, can be one of four types:

Based on this, we can conclude that our Solaris is far from sports car, so we don’t need expensive ceramic pads. We will choose from the average price category among the most popular and respected brands.

What are the best brake pads for the Hyundai Solaris?

From a cost perspective, it doesn't really matter how hard the brake pads are - if they are soft, frequent replacement will be necessary, but you can save on expensive discs. If the pads are hard, then they are changed less often, but the disc wears out more intensively. It all depends on your driving style. Here is a small overview of stock and most popular non-original pads.

1. Original Mobis pads, which are installed from the assembly line. Catalog number 58101-1RA05 for the front ones, 58302-1RA30 for the rear ones. They are sold complete with brackets, but for the aftermarket they are marketed under the Sangsin brand. Their catalog numbers are SP1399 for the front and SP1401 for the rear. During the tests they showed excellent performance, do not require grinding in, and to lock the wheels at a speed of 70 km/h, a force on the brake pedal of about 12 kgf is sufficient. Wear over 40 km of intensive testing was 0.33 mm. The price of the front pads is about 1 250 rubles, rear - 1200 rubles.

   58101-1RA05 - Hi-Q brake pads use the same article number. Also very high quality pads.

2. The most expensive ones available - pads Hankook Frixa FPH27/Hankook Frixa FPH26R (front/rear). Average price near 2.5 thousand rubles. The softest of the Frixa series. Test wear was 0.43 mm, minimal force on the pedals, they work stably at any temperature.

   Hankook Frixa FPH27/Hankook Frixa FPH26R.

3. Pads Akyoto AKD-12101. Low noise asbestos-free pads with low level noise. The effort on the brake pedal is average. In medium temperature mode they behave very well, but in mountain descent mode they can heat up to 300 degrees, but this does not affect stability. Price approx. 1500 rubles, test wear - 0.44 mm.

   Brake pads Akyoto AKD-12101

4. Bosch 0986494566, price from 2100 rubles. In the speed range up to 100 km/h they behave perfectly, minimal effort on the pedals, stable operation. Test wear is within normal limits, about 0.4 mm, and during operation they wear out evenly without the need to adapt to changes in the geometry of the friction lining.

This is only a small part of the pads that can be used on the Hyundai Solaris. However, it is worth understanding that A 500-ruble consumable is unlikely to work long and stably, even if there is a well-known logo on the box. Strong brakes and safe roads to everyone!

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Service brake system- hydraulic, dual-circuit, with diagonal separation of circuits, which increases the safety of vehicle operation. One of the circuits of the service brake system ensures the operation of the brake mechanisms of the left front and right rear wheels, and the other - the right front and left rear wheels.

In normal mode, when the system is working, both circuits operate.
If one of the circuits fails (depressurizes), the other circuit provides braking to the vehicle, although with less efficiency. The service brake system includes wheel brakes, pedal assembly, vacuum booster, master cylinder, hydraulic reservoir, ABS unit, as well as connecting pipes and hoses.

Brake system components:

1 - ABS block;

2 - hydraulic drive reservoir;

3 - master brake cylinder;

4 - brake fluid level sensor;

5 - vacuum booster;

6 - pipes of the main brake cylinder.

The pedal assembly bracket contains a brake pedal position sensor, combined with a brake signal switch - its contacts close when the brake pedal is pressed. The sensor sends a signal to the ECU that the brake pedal is depressed. A vacuum brake booster is designed to reduce the force that must be applied to the brake pedal when braking a vehicle by using vacuum in the intake manifold of a running engine. The booster is located between the brake pedal and the master cylinder and is secured with four nuts to the pedal assembly bracket. The vacuum amplifier is non-separable; if it fails, it is replaced with a new one.

Brake pedal assembly.

The brake master cylinder is secured to the vacuum booster housing with two nuts. On top of the cylinder there is a common hydraulic reservoir for the brake system and clutch, which contains a supply of fluid. On the body of the tank there are marks for the maximum and minimum liquid levels. There is a liquid level sensor installed in the tank, which, when the liquid level drops below the MIN mark, turns on a warning light in the instrument cluster.
When you press the brake pedal, the pistons of the master cylinder move, creating pressure in the hydraulic drive, which is supplied through tubes and hoses to the working cylinders of the wheel brake mechanisms.

Master brake cylinder.

Brake mechanism front wheel - disk, with a floating caliper, including a single-piston wheel cylinder.
For more efficient cooling, the brake disc is ventilated.
The brake mechanisms of the left and right front wheels are not interchangeable.

Front wheel brake mechanism.

The left brake caliper is marked L. The right brake caliper is marked R.

Markings on brake calipers.

Front brake caliper assembly with guide and pads.

The brake pad guide is attached to the steering knuckle, and the caliper is attached with two bolts to guide pins installed in the pad guide holes. There are protective covers on the fingers. When braking, the fluid pressure in the hydraulic drive of the brake mechanism increases and the piston, moving out of the wheel cylinder, made integral with the caliper, presses the inner brake pad to the disc. Then the caliper (by moving the guide pins in the pad guide holes) moves relative to the disc, pressing the outer brake pad against it. The cylinder body contains a piston with a rubber sealing ring. Due to the elasticity of this ring, a constant optimal gap is maintained between the disc and the brake pads (similarly, the optimal gap is maintained in the rear disc brake mechanism).

Front wheel brake components:

1 - pad guide;

2 - external brake pad;

3 - guide plate;

4

5 - upper guide pin;

6

7

8 - lower guide pin;

9 - internal brake pad.

An acoustic wear indicator is riveted to the inner brake pad and an anti-vibration plate is attached, which also protects the brake cylinder boot.

Brake pad elements:

1 - anti-vibration plate of brake pads;

2 - acoustic brake pad wear indicator.

Depending on the configuration, vehicles can be equipped with two types of rear wheel brakes: disc or drum.

1 - ABS sensor;

2 - brake hose;

3 - parking brake cable;

4 - return spring parking brake mechanism;

5 - protective cap bleeder fittings;

6 - guide pin;

7 - protective cover for the guide pin;

8 - caliper with working cylinder;

9 - brake disc.

Rear wheel disc brake components:

1 - pad guide;

2 - external brake pad;

3 - guide plate;

4 - protective cover for the guide pin;

5 - upper guide pin;

6 - caliper with working cylinder;

7 - bolt securing the caliper to the guide pin;

8 - lower guide pin;

9 - internal brake pad with acoustic wear indicator.

Parking brake drive elements on the caliper:

1 - lever;

2 - return spring;

3 - threaded rod.

Rear wheel disc brake- with a floating caliper including a single-piston working cylinder.

Rear wheel brake caliper.

The design of the rear brake cylinder is very complex, since it combines a conventional hydraulic cylinder (similar in design to the front brake cylinder) and a parking brake mechanism. The parking brake drive operates as follows. The parking brake cable acts on the drive lever and turns it. IN starting position the drive lever is returned by a spring.
Thus, the movement of the lever is transmitted to a threaded rod, which interacts with a threaded pin installed in the piston.

Threaded rod in the caliper cylinder.

The threaded pin can rotate in the piston. Moreover, when the finger is pressed against the inner surface of the piston, turning is very difficult, but if the finger moves away from the piston, it turns easily on the thrust bearing.
The threaded pin in the piston is pressed (through a thrust bearing) by a spring. Thus, as the brake pads wear, the threaded pin is unscrewed further from the threaded rod, allowing the piston to exit the cylinder and at the same time maintain a constant stroke of the parking brake.

This design of the rear brake cylinder determines the method of recessing the piston into the cylinder when replacing pads.

The piston cannot simply be pushed into the cylinder.
Using too much force will damage the parts.
The piston must be screwed in clockwise and pressed firmly on it at the same time to ensure proper friction and screwing of the threaded pin into the threaded parking brake actuator rod.
The shoe guide is attached to the lever rear suspension.
The disc brake pads of the front and rear wheels differ in design.

Piston with threaded pin.

Drum brake mechanism- with a two-piston wheel cylinder, two brake pads with automatic adjustment of the gap between the pads and the drum.

Rear wheel drum brake (shown with the wheel hub removed for clarity):

1 - rear brake pad;

2 - support bracket;

3 - support stand;

4 - parking brake drive lever;

5 - spacer bar;

6 - upper tension spring;

7 - working (wheel) cylinder;

8 - ratchet;

9 - adjustment lever;

10 - adjusting lever spring;

11 - front brake pad;

12 - brake shield;

13 - lower tension spring;

14 - parking brake cable spring.

The automatic adjustment mechanism begins to work when the gap between the pads and brake drum. When you press the brake pedal, the pads begin to diverge and press against the brake drum, while the protrusion of the adjusting lever moves along the cavity between the teeth of the ratchet. When the pads are worn to a certain level and the brake pedal is pressed, the adjusting lever has enough travel to turn the ratchet by one tooth, thereby increasing the length of the spacer bar and at the same time reducing the gap between the pads and the drum. Thus, the gradual lengthening of the spacer bar automatically maintains the gap between the brake drum and the shoes. The wheel cylinders of the rear wheel brake mechanisms are the same. The front brake pads are the same, but the rear ones are different (non-removable parking brake drive levers are installed on them in a mirror-symmetrical manner).

The spacer bar and the brake ratchet of the left wheel are silver in color (the ratchet rod and the hole in the spacer bar have a left-hand thread), and the right wheel is golden in color (the ratchet rod and the hole in the spacer bar have a right-hand thread). The cylindrical ends of the ratchets are fitted with spacer bar tips, identical for the brake mechanisms of the left and right wheels. The adjustment levers of the brake mechanism of the left and right wheels are mirror-symmetrical.

Elements of the mechanism for automatically adjusting the gap between the shoes and the drum:

A- left wheel brake mechanism;

b- right wheel brake mechanism;

1 - spacer bar;

2 - ratchet;

3 - tip of the spacer bar;

4 - adjustment lever.

The parking brake lever, mounted between the front seats on the floor tunnel, is connected to two cables through the front cable and equalizer. The rear cable ends are connected to the parking brake levers mounted on the rear brake calipers (disc mechanism) or rear brake shoes (drum mechanism). The parking brake is adjusted by rotating the adjusting nut located on the tip of the front cable.

Parking brake lever components:

1 - parking brake lever;

2 - parking brake warning switch;

3 - adjusting nut;

4 - front parking brake cable;

5 - equalizer.

Cars are equipped with an anti-lock brake system (ABS).
Brake fluid from the master cylinder enters the ABS unit, and from it to the brake mechanisms of all wheels.

ABS unit fixed in engine compartment on the left side member, under the vacuum booster, it consists of a hydraulic modulator, a pump and a control unit.
ABS operates depending on the signals from the wheel speed sensors.

When the vehicle is braking, the ABS control unit detects the beginning of a wheel lock and opens the corresponding solenoid valve modulator for pressure relief working fluid in the channel.

The valve opens and closes several times per second, so you can verify that ABS is working by slightly shaking the brake pedal during braking.

ABS has a built-in brake force distribution (EBD) system, which functions as a pressure regulator in the hydraulic drive of the rear wheel brakes. If the rear wheels begin to lock when braking the vehicle, intake valves The brake mechanisms of the rear wheels in the modulator switch to the mode of maintaining constant pressure, preventing a further increase in pressure in the working cylinders of the rear brake mechanisms.

If a malfunction occurs in the ABS, the brake system remains operational, but the wheels may lock. In this case, the corresponding fault code is written to the control unit memory, which is read using special equipment at the service center.

ABS block elements:

1 - control unit;

2 - hole for connecting the brake tube of the right front wheel;

3 - hole for connecting the brake tube of the left rear wheel;

4 - hole for connecting the brake tube of the right rear wheel;

5 - hole for connecting the brake tube of the left front wheel;

6 - hole for connecting the brake master cylinder tube;

7 - pump;

8 - hydraulic modulator.

The front wheel speed sensor is installed in the hole steering knuckle and secured with a bolt. The sensor drive disk is pressed onto the outer CV joint housing. The rear wheel speed sensor is installed in the hole in the flange of the rear suspension beam arm and is also secured with a bolt. The sensor master disk is installed in the hub assembly of the rear wheel (the hub assembly is non-separable).

Rear wheel speed sensors.

Front wheel speed sensors.

The article is missing:

• High-quality photos of repairs

The cost of a set of front pads is 1200–3200 rubles, rear pads are 980–1700 rubles.

The cost of a set of front pads is 1200–3200 rubles, rear pads are 980–1700 rubles.

Replacing front brake pads

The internal pads are equipped with acoustic wear indicators that will notify you when replacement is necessary by grinding noise when braking. The pads also need to be renewed if the linings become oily or if deep grooves, cracks, or chips are detected. If the fluid level in the brake and clutch hydraulic reservoir is at the MAX mark, then before installing new pads, use a syringe or rubber bulb to pump out some of the fluid from the reservoir. We install the car on a factory-made stand. Remove the front wheel.

Before installation, we clean the brake mechanism parts from dirt and corrosion, especially the brake pad seats in the caliper guide plates and the pad guide. To clean brake mechanisms, it is prohibited to use gasoline or diesel fuel. If the protective covers of the guide pins are torn, replace them with new ones. We assemble the brake mechanism in reverse order. After replacing the pads on both front wheels, press the brake pedal several times to set the gaps between the pads and discs.

Replacing rear brake pads

Depending on the Solaris modification, the rear brakes can be disc or drum. We will look at the procedure for replacing pads on a disc version (the work is shown on the left rear wheel). We install the car on a factory-made stand. Remove the rear wheel.

Note

Brake pads need to be replaced only as a set - all four pieces on both front (or rear) wheels. Replacing the pads of only one brake mechanism can cause the vehicle to pull to the side during sudden deceleration.