Timing belt timing marks Mazda 626 diesel

So, with a mileage of 96 tkm, I decided to replace the timing belt. In the spring I asked how much it would cost me at Yokohama service (at the same time when I gave them the car with the power steering pump). Together with spare parts (timing belt, oil seals - 3 pcs., rollers - 2 pcs., and labor) they calculated me almost 10 thousand rubles. :-(((Nafik-nafik......

Looking ahead, I’ll say that the entire replacement cost me a SUN strap (900 rubles), and I bought the sealant for 130 rubles, although I only needed a little bit of it. The seals are original - they don’t leak, everything is dry, the rollers don’t make any noise either. I didn't change it. Well, the work takes 3-4 hours, slowly, and without experience on this engine. Before that, I changed the Toyota Sprinter 2 times, the 5A-FE engine. Well, it's a little simpler there. But in general it’s the same.

The easiest part of this procedure was unscrewing the pulley bolt, the most difficult was tightening the belt correctly. I will explain why below.

Now, in order. First, I removed the power steering pump so that it wouldn’t interfere, and I also changed the oil seal in it. Then disconnect everything that prevents you from removing the valve cover. All the wires, tubes, everything bends perfectly towards the intake manifold. Loosen the nuts and bolts of the right engine mount. We lift the car on a jack (front right), put it on a suitable stand (I just have a wooden block). Remove the right wheel. Remove the plastic protection. There is a view of the crankshaft pulley. You need to unscrew the bolt. This is the simplest thing :) Place the head on the bolt and place the knob against the spar (photo 1). After that, we hit the starter for a split second - EVERYTHING! The bolt is broken. I read about this method when I changed the belt on a Toyota for the first time. I was tormented then and couldn’t turn it away any other way. This one works flawlessly.

That's it, after that we calmly unscrew the bolt. We remove the pulley. They say it can turn sour and you can also suffer with it. But for me it was normal - I took it off just by shaking it back and forth with my hands... :)
Next, we use a jack to move the engine up and down. I worked in a garage in a pit. I simply laid the board across and placed a jack on it (photo 2). We support the engine, unscrew the nuts and bolts of the right engine mount, and remove the mount. After this, remove the valve cover and 2 plastic covers (upper and lower) covering the timing belt, raise and lower the engine as necessary with a jack. It was difficult to remove the bottom plastic cover - the water pump pulley was in the way. I tried to remove it by unscrewing 4 bolts by 10, but it was not possible. It's spinning, and I haven't figured out how to do it. Well, okay, the cover came off anyway, fortunately it is flexible and allows some liberties during removal and installation.

Timing marks Mazda 323 - 626 body BJ 1.8/2.0 DOHC, Mazda Premasi 1.8 Year 1992-2005

Motor FP-DE FS-DE

Replacement frequency for Mazda Premasi, 323: replacement - after 87,000 km.
Mazda 626: with a maintenance interval of 10,000 km - replacement after 96,000 km. with a maintenance interval of 15,000 km - replacement after 87,000 km.
Belt breakage Engine damage - YES

Removing the Mazda Premacy belt

2. Remove:

□ Lower engine protection.

O Inner panel of the right wing.

□ Crankshaft position sensor (if required).

□ Position sensor camshaft(if required).

□ Right engine mount.

□ Drive belts for mounted units.

□ Water pump pulley.

□ Power steering pump (if necessary, without disconnecting the hoses).

3. Install the crankshaft pulley retainer.

4. Remove:

□ Bolt (1) of the crankshaft pulley.

□ Crankshaft pulley (2).

□ High voltage wires.

□ Cylinder head cover.

□ Oil dipstick and dipstick tube (3).

□ Timing belt covers (4).

5. Temporarily install bolt (1) to hold the crankshaft timing pulley.

6. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston of the first cylinder is at TDC. Check the alignment of marks (5) and (6) with the benchmarks.

Note: the marks on the back of the camshaft sprockets must be parallel to the plane of the cylinder head.

7. Use the hexagon (8) to hold the tensioner pulley (7). Disconnect the tensioner spring (9).

8. Move the tensioner roller away from the belt and release the belt tension.

9. Remove the timing belt.

Installing the Mazda Premacy belt

2. Check the alignment of marks (5) and (6) with the benchmarks.

3. Put on the belt in a counterclockwise direction, starting from the crankshaft and without slack in the drive branch.

4. Using a hexagon (8), move the tensioner roller to the belt.

5. Secure the spring (9). Make sure the belt is tensioned by the spring force.

6. Slowly rotate the crankshaft two turns.

7. Check the alignment of marks (5) and (6) with the benchmarks.

8. Remove bolt (1).

9. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

10. Install the crankshaft pulley retainer.

11. Tighten the bolt (1) of the crankshaft pulley to a torque of 157-166 N m.

12. Install the crankshaft position sensor. Adjust the gap between the sensor tip and the synchronizing ring (gap 0.5 -1.5 mm).

To replace the timing belt with Mazda car 626 GF, many owners of this car turn to specialized car services for help, where such a service will cost an average of 2000 - 3000 rubles, and in more expensive services the price can double. However, by paying this not very large amount, you do not receive a 100% guarantee that everything will be done efficiently, so you can replace the belt yourself. All you need is a good set of keys, a pit and a jack, the belt itself and 4 to 5 hours of free time, although more time may be needed the first time.

1) Drive the car into the pit and jack it up to loosen the right front wheel, preventing us from removing the protection. Disconnect the terminal from the battery. Then we do not completely unscrew the bolts from the pump pulley and carefully remove the power steering pump, and so that it does not interfere with us, we hang it on a wire somewhere on the side. We remove the pulley from the pump, then, loosening the generator mount, remove the belt from the generator.

2) Next, we move the jack under the pallet in order to slightly lift the engine with its help. We remove the engine mounts; to do this, you need to unscrew the nuts and bolts. Adjusting the jack will make this process easier. We move on to the valve cover and disconnect/unscrew everything that may interfere with its removal, and then remove the cover.

3) We move on to the crankshaft, which, using a socket head and a wrench, must be turned until the letter “T” on the plastic protection coincides with the mark “VM” on the crankshaft. In addition, it is necessary to set the marks “I” and “E” on the camshaft pulleys to the same level. We ask an assistant to assist in removing the crankshaft pulley. We need a head and some kind of pipe that acts as a lever in order to break the bolt. We send the assistant to the salon, his duties are to “stick” the fifth speed and firmly press the brake pedal. Unscrew the pulley bolt.

4) We go directly to the timing belt. First of all, remove its plastic protection. Armed with a bright marker or corrector, we place marks on the camshaft teeth and belt cavities, as well as on the crankshaft pulley and belt. We pull the spring off the tension roller, and then remove the tensioner itself by unscrewing the mounting bolt. Remove the belt and then move on to the deflection roller.

5) We transfer the marks from the old belt to the new belt; for reliability, you can count the teeth between the marks. We return the idler pulley and tensioner to their places, but do not tighten the bolts themselves yet. Using the marked marks as a guide, we tighten the new belt; turning the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys will make this process easier. Now tighten the bolts on the rollers and install the spring on the tensioner. A couple of turns of the crankshaft pulley will help seat the belt in place.

In reverse order, we collect everything that was filmed earlier. The gasket, it is better to take a new one, coat it with sealant on both sides. The bolts must be tightened in a certain sequence; their numbering can be indicated. We start the engine and listen for any extraneous noise.

If everything is fine, then we forget about replacing the belt after about 100,000 kilometers, provided that the belt was original. If the belt is not original, then after 60,000 kilometers we check its condition. The code of the original belt is FP01-12-SF0; products from any well-known company, for example, Conti Tech, Bosch, Gates, Dayco and others, are suitable as an analogue. The idler roller code is FS01-12-730A (can be replaced by NTN or GMB), the tension roller code is FP01-12-700A (analogues of RBH or NSK).