How much electrolyte should be in the battery? Replacing the electrolyte in the battery How much electrolyte is needed in the battery 60

Rechargeable batteries differ in capacitive characteristics: 55ah, 60ah, 70ah, 44ah and production technology. The ampere-hour (Ah) indication measures the battery capacity - the amount of current that is taken at a constant temperature of 27°C for 20 hours up to a voltage of 1.75 volts per battery cell. What technologies are used in the battery, the contents of the batteries - you will learn about this below.

Calcium (CA+/Ca-). Advantages:

• low water consumption
• accident safety,
• low self-discharge.

Calcium batteries are recommended if the battery is installed in engine compartment and therefore subject to high temperatures or installed in a hard to reach place. Manufacturers now use 90% of this type of battery in new cars.

Hybrid (antimony+/CA-). High water consumption compared to pure calcium batteries. From time to time, distilled water is replenished. Thus, this type of battery is recognized by the presence of a plug for topping up water. For expensive branded batteries, water consumption is practically reduced to 0.

Find out your battery charging time

Antimony plates (antimony + / antimony) Rarely used as a starter battery. High cycle strength but limited cold start current. Frequent refilling is required.

Of the above, consider a battery of a serviced type - (antimony + / Ca-) and (antimony + / antimony -) lead-acid batteries, where due to chemical reaction sulfuric acid, water, lead, electric charges are formed on the battery electrodes. In this case, part of the chemicals lose weight. To a greater extent, this applies to water.

The decrease in the electrolyte level in the battery banks occurs due to a decrease in the volume of water. The concentration of sulfuric acid does not decrease, but may increase. That is why, in the absence of electrolyte leaks, distilled water is added to the battery banks to close the upper edge of the plates by 3-5 mm or to the control mark.

The value of the battery charge and electrolyte density

Since the battery level will depend on the quantitative composition of the chemical elements involved in electrolysis, it is logical to assume that the dimensions of the plates, the capacity of the cans, will be different. If we compare 45Ah and 75Ah batteries, then geometric dimensions and the weight of the latter will be greater.

Lead-acid serviceable batteries are best stored dry, not filled with electrolyte. This will oxidize the plates, but this is much less than the mass loss of the plates during the chemical reaction. The electrolyte, if prepared independently, is mixed in the recommended proportions.

About charging the battery with electrolyte

Battery factories give instructions for refueling batteries. Auto shops sell ready-made electrolytes and distilled water. Use the table to obtain 1 liter of electrolyte.

You can find out the density of the electrolyte in the battery with a hydrometer. How to use is indicated in the attached instructions. Correction is made depending on the temperature. If, for example, + 15 ° С, then the correction is 0, then for every 15 degrees up or down, an amendment is made by 0.01 g / cm3, for example, at - 15 ° С, the correction is made - 0.02 g / cm3.

The electrolyte solution is prepared based on the volume indicated in the passport. In a 50Ah, 75Ah, 90Ah, 190Ah battery, the electrolyte volume will be approximately 2.5l, 4l, 5l, 10l. Depends on the manufacturer.

In fact, the maintenance of serviced batteries consists in checking the density of the electrolyte and the charge of the battery. It is necessary at least once a year, especially when preparing for winter, to check the level and density of the electrolyte, and if the battery is old, then more often.

Attention! When working with electrolyte, take precautions: work with goggles and gloves in a ventilated area. Add acid to water, not the other way around. If the solution comes into contact with the skin, rinse the area with plenty of running water with the addition of baking soda. Use utensils resistant to acid: glass, ceramics, ebonite, plastic.

If you find that the electrolyte level has fallen below the control mark, do the following:

1. Remove the battery and take it to a warm, ventilated area.
2. Add distilled water up to the level mark: 3-5 mm above the plates.
3. Charge the battery with the charger.
4. If after that the density is below the norm, for example, 1.19 - 1.21 g / cm3, then add the electrolyte, which is already sold ready-made with a density of 1.34 - 1.40 g / cm3. To do this, pump out the electrolyte from the jar with a pear and pour in fresh.
   Attention! In no case do not turn the battery upside down, the plates may be shorted by exfoliated pieces of lead from the bottom of the battery can.
5. Do this operation with other banks, bringing the density to normal. For a temperate climate 1.25 - 1.27g / cm3. For harsh conditions, the density is 1.29g/cm3.
6. Charge the battery again with 10% - with the current Ah of the battery, for example, if it is 60Ah, then make the charging current 6A.

Monitor charging, avoid discharges, maintain the electrolyte level in the battery banks. Do not allow the battery to self-discharge, which is possible due to wiring faults, loose contacts, charge leakage through a dirty battery case. Extend battery life beyond the warranty period.

The fluid that keeps batteries running is called electrolyte. The temperature and volume of this liquid in the battery compartments determine how electrochemical reactions and the operation of the entire battery will occur. Since physical and chemical processes depend on temperature, at different times of the year, the battery electrolyte must have a different density.

What is an electrolyte

An electrolyte is a liquid substance consisting of sulfuric acid (H2SO4) and distilled water that conducts electricity due to dissociation (breakdown) into ions. Automotive acid batteries are those in which acid is poured - an electrolyte. Serviced batteries allow you to adjust the density of the electrolyte, which is very important for a climate with a large difference during the year.

Electrolyte characteristics

Not many people know what acid is in batteries, what it is called. Answer: concentrated sulfuric acid. It is the main component of the electrolyte. The second component is distilled water (purified, free of impurities).

The density of the acid should be no higher than 1.84 grams / milliliter, this is the maximum threshold. To reduce the density to specially specified values, distilled water is added.

Batteries are filled with sulfuric acid and water specially purified from any impurities. There is the State Standard GOST 667-73 on what requirements acid for batteries should be.

What are the electrolyte density limits for batteries

The density should be in the range of 1.07 - 3.0 g / ml. If sulfuric acid is diluted to such a working density value (1.07-3 g / ml), then the concentration of H2SO4 will be 27-40%.

How to check electrolyte

Checking tools:

The procedure for checking in serviced batteries:

1. Disconnect battery.
2. Unscrew plugs.
3. Lower the working part of the hydrometer into the electrolyte of one of the sections.
4. By manipulating the pear on the hydrometer, we suck the electrolyte into the device until the float rises and begins to float without touching the walls of the device.
5. The actual density will be shown on the scale at the point where the electrolyte and the rod touch each other.
6. Write down the received data on paper.

Such measurements must be made for all cans of the battery.

Densities in different sections of the same battery should be almost the same. The difference between them should be in the range of 0.2 to 0.3 grams / milliliter.

With a high level of battery charge, the freezing point of the liquid will be lower, the electrolyte density indicators are slightly higher than with a “dead” battery. Therefore, if the density of the electrolyte is slightly below the desired value, then be aware that when you charge the battery well, the density will slightly increase.

Another important rule: monitor the volume of electrolyte. The liquid level can be below the top of the plates no more than 15 mm.

To measure the amount of liquid in containers, you need to install the battery on a flat surface. Lower the glass tube into the liquid to the top of the lead plates, close the upper end of the tube, raise it and measure with a ruler how many millimeters of electrolyte were above the lead plates. If necessary, add distillate a little at a time. In this way, check the level in all sections. The liquid level should be 10-15 mm above the top of the plates.

Important! Do not pour electrolyte into the battery to raise the liquid level. This will ruin the battery. You have to use distilled water.

If there is no tube, then the liquid level in the battery is measured with clean paper wrapped in a tube. We carry out the same actions as with the tube, however, the error should be taken into account - the paper will get wet above the real level.

Will not give a table of density indicators for each temperature. For the Russian climate, the density should be 1.28 g / ml.

If the density of the electrolyte reaches 1.1 g / ml, then already at -6 degrees, the liquid will begin to solidify, form crystals. Drivers of the far north transport batteries in heat or in a special thermal container.

How to prepare an electrolyte

On sale there are already filled with the required density of electrolyte and charged batteries, as well as dry-charged batteries. Dry-charged batteries must be filled with electrolyte.

To prepare the electrolyte with your own hands, you will need:

1. Distilled water.
2. Funnel.
3. Sulfuric acid (H2SO4). Desirably, the density of the pure acid is 1.4 g/cm 3 . As a last resort, an acid with a density of 1.84 g/cm3 can be used.
4. Scale container.
5. Tube for mixing liquid. You need a tube made of acid-neutral materials: ebonite, ceramics, glass).
6. Personal protective equipment (PPE): rubber gloves, goggles, overalls with long arms, boots.

Safety regulations for the manufacture of the solution

1. Attention! Do not pour water into acid. From this, splashes begin to fly and you can get burns.
2. It is allowed to pour acid into water, but in a thin stream.
3. When topping up, mix the liquid.
4. After mixing the resulting solution, it is required to measure the density with a hydrometer.

How much fluid is in the battery

Depending on the power and volume of the battery, the volume of liquid in them is in the following range: 2.6-3.7 liters. If after filling the battery, the liquid remains, it must be neutralized with baking soda and poured out.

Table: how much water and sulfuric acid are needed to achieve different densities.

Filling electrolyte

The prepared solution should be poured into the battery through a funnel made of neutral material.

We fill in the liquid alternately in the battery section. We make the same level in all banks. The level should be 1 to 1.5 cm above the plates. 2-3 hours do not touch the battery. Density may slightly decrease when standing.

Next, you should charge the car battery to operating parameters. To properly charge a charged battery, you must set the current to a value 10 times less than indicated on the battery case. For example, if 65 A * h is written on the battery case (amps times an hour), then on the charger we set the current to 6.5 A (Amps). In this value, you need to charge for 4 hours. After charging, we again measure the density.

What damages a battery

During different periods of operation of this electrical device, it is subjected to various physical, chemical and mechanical influences. If it is cold outside, ice crystals appear on the body, the electrolyte also begins to freeze and crystallize.

If the battery is frozen, do not use burners and other heating devices.

Heating of the battery should occur in natural mode. It is enough to remove the battery, bring it to a warm room for a day. With natural warming, all parts of the battery design will be warmed evenly.

If, as a result of frost or mechanical shock, at least one crack appeared on the battery case, then such a battery has served its time. Further operation is prohibited. If a crack is found, immediately disconnect the terminals from it and dismantle it.

Can the battery be used if the case is swollen? Answer: it is possible, if the tightness of the device is not broken.

You can restore in 2 ways:

1. To put such a battery in order, you need to check the electrolyte level in it, the density. Put on charge with a current of 1 A for one day. During charging, you can periodically measure the density of the liquid. If the density increases during charging, then the battery is good.
2. Also, you can drain the completely old liquid, rinse with distilled water, prepare a solution, pour it in and wait a few hours. Then charge with slow charging, that is, set the current from 0.5 to 1 Ampere. After 2 hours, a healthy battery should have slightly increased electrolyte density.

Conclusion

How much electrolyte is filled in, what purity, what density - all this affects the life of the battery, which can last 5 years, or maybe half a year.

If the liquid volume decreases, then distilled water should be added. During all work, follow the safety rules, that is, do not be lazy to wear glasses and do not be shy of others.

Video

This video teaches how to properly increase the density of the electrolyte in the battery.

An easy way to increase battery density.

How to restore an old battery.

about the electrolyte.

The density of the electrolyte in the battery is a very important parameter for everyone, and every car owner should know: what density should be, how to check it, and most importantly, how to properly raise the density of the battery (acid specific gravity) in each of the cans with lead plates filled with H2SO4 solution.

In the article on the density of the battery electrolyte, you will learn:

Checking the density is one of the points in the process, which also includes checking the electrolyte level and measuring the battery voltage. in lead batteries density is measured in g/cm3. She proportional to the concentration of the solution, a inversely dependent on temperature liquids (the higher the temperature, the lower the density).

By the density of the electrolyte, you can determine the condition of the battery. So if the battery does not hold a charge, then you should check the condition of its fluid in every bank.

The density of the electrolyte affects the capacity of the battery and its service life.

It is checked with a densimeter (hydrometer) at a temperature of +25°C. If the temperature differs from the required one, the readings are corrected as shown in the table.

So, we figured out a little what it is and what needs to be done regularly. And what numbers to focus on, how much is good and how much is bad, what should be the density of the battery electrolyte?

What density should be in the battery

Maintaining the optimal electrolyte density is very important for the battery and it is worth knowing that the required values ​​\u200b\u200bare dependent on the climatic zone. Therefore, the density of the battery must be set based on a combination of requirements and operating conditions. For example, in a temperate climate, the density of the electrolyte should be at the level 1.25-1.27 g/cm3±0.01 g/cm3. In the cold zone, with winters down to -30 degrees, 0.01 g / cm3 more, and in the hot subtropical - by 0.01 g/cm3 less. In those regions where the winter is especially severe(up to -50 ° C), so that the battery does not freeze, you have to increase density from 1.27 to 1.29 g/cm3.

Many car owners are wondering: “What should be the density of the electrolyte in the battery in winter, and what should be in summer, or is there no difference, and should the indicators be kept at the same level all year round?” Therefore, we will deal with the issue in more detail, and it will help to do this, battery electrolyte density table divided into climatic zones.

Point to be aware of - the lower the density of the electrolyte in a fully charged battery, the will last longer.

You also need to remember that, as a rule, the battery, being by car, charged no more than 80-90% its nominal capacity, so the density of the electrolyte will be slightly lower than when fully charged. So, the required value is chosen a little higher, from the one indicated in the density table, so that when the air temperature drops to the maximum level, the battery is guaranteed to remain operational and not freeze in the winter. But, regarding the summer season, increased density may threaten boiling.

The high density of the electrolyte leads to a decrease in battery life. The low density of the electrolyte in the battery leads to a decrease in voltage, making it difficult to start the engine.

The density table is compiled relative to the average monthly temperature in the month of January, so that climatic zones with cold air down to -30 ° C and moderate ones with temperatures not lower than -15 do not require a decrease or increase in acid concentration. All year round ( winter and summer) the density of the electrolyte in the battery should not be changed, but only check and make sure that it does not deviate from the nominal value, but in very cold areas, where the thermometer is often below -30 degrees (in the flesh up to -50), an adjustment is allowed.

The density of the electrolyte in the battery in winter

The density of the electrolyte in the battery in winter should be 1.27 (for regions with winter temperatures below -35, not less than 1.28 g/cm3). If the value is lower, then this leads to a decrease in the electromotive force and difficult starting of the engine in cold weather, up to freezing of the electrolyte.

Decreasing the density to 1.09 g/cm3 leads to freezing of the battery already at a temperature of -7°C.

When in winter time the density in the battery is lowered, then you should not immediately run for a correction solution in order to raise it, it is much better to take care of something else - a high-quality battery charge using charger.

Half-hour trips from home to work and back do not allow the electrolyte to warm up, and, therefore, it will be well charged, because the battery takes charge only after warming up. So the rarefaction increases from day to day, and as a result, the density also decreases.

It is highly undesirable to carry out independent manipulations with the electrolyte; only adjustment of the level with distilled water is allowed (for cars - 1.5 cm above the plates, and for trucks up to 3 cm).

For a new and serviceable battery, the normal interval for changing the density of the electrolyte (full discharge - full charge) is 0.15-0.16 g / cm3.

Remember that the operation of a discharged battery at sub-zero temperatures leads to freezing of the electrolyte and the destruction of lead plates!

According to the table of the dependence of the freezing point of the electrolyte on its density, you can find out the minus threshold of the thermometer column at which ice forms in your battery.

As you can see, when charged to 100%, the battery will freeze at -70 °C. At 40% charge, it freezes already at -25 ° C. 10% will not only make it impossible to start the engine on a frosty day, but will completely freeze in 10 degree frost.

When the density of the electrolyte is not known, the degree of discharge of the battery is checked with a load plug. The voltage difference in the cells of one battery should not exceed 0.2V.

If the battery is discharged by more than 50% in winter and more than 25% in summer, it must be recharged.

The density of the electrolyte in the battery in summer

In summer, the battery suffers from dehydration., therefore, given that increased density has a bad effect on lead plates, it is better if it is 0.02 g/cm3 below the required value(especially in the southern regions).

In summer, the temperature under the hood, where the battery is often located, is significantly increased. Such conditions contribute to the evaporation of water from the acid and the activity of electrochemical processes in the battery, providing high current output even at the minimum allowable electrolyte density (1.22 g/cm3 for a warm humid climate zone). So, when the electrolyte level gradually drops, then its density increases, which accelerates the processes of corrosion destruction of electrodes. That is why it is so important to control the liquid level in the battery and, when it drops, add distilled water, and if this is not done, then overcharging and sulfation threaten.

Stably overestimated electrolyte density leads to a decrease in battery life.

If the driver or other reasons, you should try to return it to its working condition using a charger. But before charging the battery, they look at the level and, if necessary, top up with distilled water, which could evaporate during operation.

After some time, the density of the electrolyte in the battery, due to its constant dilution with distillate, decreases and falls below the required value. Then the operation of the battery becomes impossible, so that it becomes necessary to increase the density of the electrolyte in the battery. But in order to find out how much to increase, you need to know how to check this very density.

How to check battery density

To ensure the correct operation of the battery, electrolyte density should check every 15-20 thousand km run. The measurement of density in the battery is carried out using a device such as a densimeter. The device of this device consists of a glass tube, inside which is a hydrometer, and at the ends - a rubber tip on one side and a pear on the other. To check, you will need to: open the cork of the battery can, immerse it in the solution, and draw in a small amount of electrolyte with a pear. A floating hydrometer with a scale will show all the necessary information. We will consider in more detail how to correctly check the density of the battery a little lower, since there is also such a type of battery as maintenance-free, and the procedure is somewhat different in them - you will not need absolutely any devices.

The rarefaction of the battery is determined by the density of the electrolyte - the lower the density, the more discharged the battery.

Density indicator on a maintenance-free battery

Density maintenance-free battery displayed by a color indicator in a special window. Green indicator testifies that Everything is okay(degree of charge within 65 - 100%) if the density has dropped and recharging required, then the indicator will black. When the window displays white or red bulb, then you need urgent topping up with distilled water. But, by the way, the exact information about the meaning of a particular color in the window is on the battery sticker.

Checking the density of the electrolyte, in order to determine the need for its adjustment, is carried out only with a fully charged battery.

So, in order to be able to correctly check the density of the electrolyte in the battery, first of all we check the level and, if necessary, correct it. Then we charge the battery and only then proceed to the test, but not immediately, but after a couple of hours of rest, since immediately after charging or adding water there will be inaccurate data.

It should be remembered that the density directly depends on the air temperature, so refer to the correction table discussed above. Having taken the liquid from the battery can, hold the device at eye level - the hydrometer must be at rest, float in the liquid, without touching the walls. Measurement is made in each compartment, and all indicators are recorded.

Table for determining the battery charge by electrolyte density.

The density of the electrolyte must be the same in all cells.

A strongly reduced density in one of the cells indicates the presence of defects in it (in particular, a short circuit between the plates). But if it is low in all cells, then this indicates a deep discharge, sulfation, or simply obsolescence. A density test, combined with a voltage measurement with and without load, will determine the exact cause of the malfunction.

If it is very high for you, then you shouldn’t be glad that the battery is in order either, perhaps it was boiling, because during electrolysis, when the electrolyte boils, the density of the battery becomes higher.

When you need to check the density of the electrolyte in order to determine the degree of charge of the battery, you can do this without removing the battery from under the hood of the car; you will need the device itself, a multimeter (for measuring voltage) and a table of the ratio of measurement data.

** cell difference should not exceed 0.02–0.03 g/cm3.

*** The voltage value is valid for batteries that have been at rest for at least 8 hours.

If necessary, density adjustments are made. It will be necessary to select a certain volume of electrolyte from the battery and add corrective (1.4 g / cm3) or distilled water, followed by 30 minutes of charging with rated current and exposure for several hours to equalize the density in all compartments. Therefore, we will talk further on how to properly raise the density in the battery.

Do not forget that extreme care is required in handling the electrolyte, as it contains sulfuric acid.

How to increase the density in the battery

It is necessary to raise the density when it was necessary to repeatedly adjust the level with distillate or it is not enough for winter operation battery, and even after repeated long recharge. A symptom of the need for such a procedure will be a reduction in the charge / discharge interval. In addition to correctly and fully charging the battery, there are a couple of ways to increase the density:

• add a more concentrated electrolyte (the so-called corrective);
• add acid.

How to properly check and increase the density in the battery.

To increase and adjust the density of the electrolyte in the battery, you will need:

1) hydrometer;

2) measuring cup;

3) a container for dilution of a new electrolyte;

4) pear enema;

5) corrective electrolyte or acid;

6) distilled water.

The essence of the procedure is as follows:

1. A small amount of electrolyte is taken from the battery bank.
2. Instead of the same amount, we add a corrective electrolyte, if it is necessary to increase the density, or distilled water (with a density of 1.00 g / cm3), if, on the contrary, its decrease is required;
3. Next, the battery must be put on recharging in order to charge it with a rated current for half an hour - this will allow the liquid to mix;
4. Having disconnected the battery from the device, it will be necessary to wait at least another hour / two, so that the density in all banks evens out, the temperature drops and all gas bubbles come out in order to eliminate the error in the control measurement;
5. Re-check the density of the electrolyte and, if necessary, repeat the procedure for withdrawing and adding the required liquid (increase or decrease further), reducing the dilution step, and then measure it again.

The difference in electrolyte density between banks should not exceed 0.01 g/cm3. If this result could not be achieved, it is necessary to make an additional equalizing charge (the current is 2-3 times less than the nominal one).

To understand how to increase the density in the battery, or maybe vice versa - you need a decrease in the specifically measured battery compartment, it is desirable to know what the nominal volume is in it in cubic centimeters. For example, the volume of electrolyte in one bank car battery at 55 Ah, 6ST-55 - 633 cm3, and 6ST-45 - 500 cm3. The proportion of electrolyte composition is approximately as follows: sulfuric acid (40%); distilled water (60%). The table below will help you achieve the required electrolyte density in the battery:

electrolyte density formula

Please note that this table provides for the use of a correction electrolyte with a density of only 1.40 g / cm3, and if the liquid is of a different density, then an additional formula must be used.

For those who find such calculations very complicated, you can do everything a little easier by applying the golden section method:

We pump out most of the liquid from the battery can and pour it into a measuring cup to find out the volume, then add half that amount of electrolyte, shake it to mix. If you are still far from the required value, then add another fourth of the previously pumped out volume with electrolyte. So you should add, each time reducing the amount by half, until the goal is reached.

We strongly recommend that you take all precautions. The acidic environment is harmful not only when it comes into contact with the skin, but also in the respiratory tract. The procedure with electrolyte should be carried out exclusively in well-ventilated areas with extreme caution.

How to raise the density in the accumulator if it fell below 1.18

When the density of the electrolyte is less than 1.18 g/cm3, we cannot do with one electrolyte, we will have to add acid (1.8 g/cm3). The process is carried out according to the same scheme as in the case of adding an electrolyte, only we take a small dilution step, since the density is very high and you can skip the desired mark already from the first dilution.

When preparing all solutions, pour the acid into the water, and not vice versa.

If the electrolyte has acquired a brown (brown) color, then it will no longer survive frosts, since this is a signal for a gradual failure of the battery. A dark shade turning into black usually indicates that the active mass involved in the electrochemical reaction fell off the plates and got into the solution. Therefore, the surface area of ​​the plates has decreased - it is impossible to restore the initial density of the electrolyte during the charging process. The battery is easy to change.

The average service life of modern batteries, subject to the rules of operation (to prevent deep discharges and overcharging, including through the fault of the voltage regulator), is 4-5 years. So it makes no sense to perform manipulations, such as: drilling the case, turning it over to drain all the liquid and completely replace it - this is complete "game" - if the plates have fallen, then nothing can be done. Keep an eye on the charge, check the density in time, properly maintain the car battery and you will be provided with the maximum lines of its work.

The quality of the electrolyte greatly affects the durability and basic parameters of the battery. Therefore, if you want the battery to serve you faithfully for more than one year, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main nuances of its maintenance.

1 Why is electrolyte important to a battery?

An electrolyte is a solution of sulfuric acid (H2SO4) in water, which is able to accumulate and distribute electrical energy as a result of chemical reactions occurring in it. It is extremely important that the level of this solution in (battery) is within normal limits. The fact is that excess fluid leads to oxidation of the terminals, and this can cause failure of all on-board electronics.

If the electrolyte level is less than the prescribed norm, the inner plates dry out and the density of the acid increases. As a result, the plates begin to collapse, and the battery finally fails. In such cases, they say: “Cans fell down in the battery.” Therefore, it is in the interests of each car owner to monitor the electrolyte level and maintain it at a certain level.

2 Checking the amount of electrolyte in the battery

The battery, it would seem, is a closed container, so the liquid level in it should not change. In practice, during the operation of the battery, water evaporates. Moreover, the rate of liquid reduction depends on several points:

• car operating conditions - temperature changes, often turning the ignition on and off, long trips along the highway lead to accelerated evaporation of water;
• serviceability of the electrical system - if there are problems with the electrician, the load on the battery increases. Problems with the generator have a particularly negative effect on the state of the battery.

The battery is also affected by the manner of driving a car, and some other factors. When combined, the fluid level may drop to a critical level within one month. But how to control it?

The level check can be done in several ways. Most often, the battery case is made of translucent plastic and marked "Min" and "Max". Accordingly, the level of the solution is clearly visible to the eye, especially if you raise the battery in front of you on a sunny day or in a well-lit room.

If the plastic is not translucent or there are no marks on the battery, you can check the level with a glass tube. To do this, unscrew the battery cap, then lower the tube all the way and close the top hole with your finger. After that, you need to pull out the tube and measure the height of the liquid column. The minimum allowable value is 12 mm and the maximum is 15 mm. Similarly, it is necessary to check the liquid level in each can.

Modern expensive battery models have a special liquid level sensor, the so-called "magic eye". To check the level, you need to gently knock on it, after which a certain color will appear. Each color has its own meaning:

• green - the battery is normal;
• white - the charge level is less than normal, i.e. the battery needs to be charged;
• red - you need to add liquid.

I must say that the "magic eye" does not accurately diagnose the state of the battery, so it is advisable to make an additional check.

3 Adjust the amount of electrolyte

If the check showed that the liquid level in the banks is low, it must be increased by adding water. Please note that the battery can only be filled with distilled water. If you pour water from the tap, the battery will be completely discharged or even fail, as the acid will react with the components that are in tap water.

The temperature of distilled water added to the jar should be between 15-25 degrees.

If the level of the acid solution exceeds the norm, it must be pumped out. For these purposes, you can use a syringe or syringe. After topping up the liquid, it is advisable to measure the charge level. If the charge is low, the battery needs to be charged for several hours.

4 What else do you need to know about the electrolyte?

An important parameter of an electrolyte is its density. Sulfuric acid itself is a fairly dense substance - this parameter is 1.84 g / cm³. As for the density of the aqueous solution in the battery, the indicator should be in the range of 1.27–1.28 g / cm³. If the density of the electrolyte in the battery differs from the prescribed one, the durability of the battery will greatly decrease and the main parameters will change.

Among motorists of "Soviet hardening" there is an opinion that in winter the electrolyte density should be higher than in summer. In reality, in modern batteries both in winter and in summer, an acid solution with a density of 1.27 g / cm³ is poured. At this density, the liquid begins to freeze at a temperature of -60 degrees.

To check the density, a special device is used, which is called a hydrometer. It is a glass tube with a scale inside which is a float. On one side of the tube is a rubber pear, which allows you to draw liquid into the tube. After taking the electrolyte, the float moves freely along the tube and shows the density level.

When checking density, follow two rules:

• after topping up with distilled water, the density cannot be checked immediately. It takes some time for the water to mix well with the water. This usually takes 3-4 hours;
• measure and correct the density after the battery is fully charged.

If the hydrometer shows that the density is too low, a special correction electrolyte should be added, the density of which is 1.4 g/cm³. Correction electrolyte can be bought or made by yourself by mixing sulfuric acid with distilled water. The only thing is to work with acid very carefully, observing all safety regulations. And it is better to do this on the street, but not at home. Please note that heat is generated when acid is mixed with distilled water.

In no case do not pour sulfuric acid directly into the battery, as the liquid may boil and the battery will fail.

If it turned out that the density of the electrolyte is higher than the prescribed value, drain a small amount of the solution from the jars into a special container and add distilled water. Since the concentration of sulfuric acid in the electrolyte is quite high, it is also necessary to work with the liquid very carefully.

5 We restore the old battery with a new electrolyte

If you notice that the battery began to discharge quickly, while the electrics in the car are in perfect order, most likely the battery is failing. But do not rush to go to the auto shop to buy a new battery. As a rule, replacing the solution allows you to correct the situation.

I must say that it makes sense to replace the electrolyte in some other cases:

• The battery has not been used for a long time;
• the liquid became cloudy. Keep in mind that a gray tint to the solution may indicate that the battery needs to be charged. After a full charge, the original transparency of the liquid returns.

Before changing the fluid, correct the density of the new electrolyte so that it is 1.28 g/cm³. Drain the old acid solution completely and fill with distilled water. Then the battery must be vigorously shaken and drained of water. Repeat the procedure until all the charcoal comes out with the water.

Before pouring into the electrolyte, it is desirable to add a special additive that removes sulfate from the electrodes. Then pour the liquid into the necks of the jars. Do this slowly, using a funnel with a narrow neck. In order for the additive to completely dissolve, the battery must be left for 48 hours. After that, you need to put it on charge at a current of 0.1 A. Charging should be carried out cyclically, i.e. according to the charge / discharge scheme until the density of the electrolyte is restored. As a result, the voltage at the terminals should be 14-15 V.

Upon reaching this voltage, the charging current should be halved and the battery charged for another two hours. If the density does not change, the charging must be stopped and the battery must be discharged to a voltage of 10 V using a current of 0.5 A.

• T is the discharge time;
• I is the discharge current;
• C is the capacity of the battery.

If it turned out that the capacity is less than 4 amp / hours, the charge cycle must be repeated to increase the capacity indicator. If you perform the above procedure correctly, you can forget about buying a new battery for a while.

A rechargeable battery is a chain of cans connected in series, filled with a special conductive solution. The current strength and battery capacity depend on its density. Therefore, the main condition for the correct operation of the device is the normal level of lead-acid solution. How much electrolyte is in the battery 55 is indicated in the manufacturer's data sheet. Each jar also has special plates, a cathode and an anode. All elements are placed in a plastic case.

Operation and maintenance

The battery is the weakest link in the chain of mechanisms modern car. In order for it to serve properly for a long time, it is necessary to constantly monitor its condition and maintain it according to the manufacturer's requirements. Therefore, each car owner must observe the following battery usage rules:

Battery 6ST-55 and 6ST-190

electrolyte - is a solution of sulfuric acid of a certain density. For a charged battery, it is 1.28 ± 0.005 g / cu. see. The electrolyte level should be 15 mm above the top edge of the plates. How many liters of it in the battery 55 is indicated in its performance characteristics.

The capacity of a car's direct current storage device is the amount of electric charge it contains. For example, it has a capacity of 55 amperes / hour, which means that it can supply consumers with a current of 5 A for eleven hours.

Batteries from the 190 Ah series are starter batteries manufactured with additional anti-vibration protection. Withstand multiple impacts and shaking when driving on uneven terrain.

Ideal for starting engines high power. Thanks to the use of new thicker plates, they have increased resistance to cyclic discharges and low water consumption.

Options:

1. Voltage - 12 volts.
2. Capacity - 190Ah.
3. Starting current - 1200A.
4. Dimensions (L x B x H/H1) - 513 x 222 x 195/220 mm.

190 Ah are sold in a dry-charged state, so it is necessary to fill in an acid solution before use.

Information on how much electrolyte is needed in a 190 battery can be found in technical passport this product or in the automotive mechanic's handbook.

Starter battery characteristic:

Power Supply Status Monitoring

Checking the battery is possible only when the necessary devices are available. Absolute minimum- this is a digital voltmeter, a hydrometer and a load plug (tester), with which you need to load the battery with a current equal to three times its capacity, for 55 A / h the current is 160 A.

Diagnosis starts with physical examination a, that is, checking for possible fluid leaks. If there is such a malfunction, the battery is not suitable for use. The next step is to measure and visually determine its color, control the voltage at the pole terminals.

A fully serviceable current source has a transparent electrolyte. In the case of products that do not require maintenance (enclosed type or AGM), the test consists in measuring the quiescent voltage.

If there is an appropriate measuring device, then after these steps it is necessary to check the starting current, it must be in accordance with the description on the label.

Voltage at the battery terminals checked with a voltmeter. To do this, turn on and set the device to DCV (voltage direct current), and also select the operating range to a value of 20 or 200, and then attach the ends of the test leads to the corresponding poles of the battery.

Connect the red wire to the positive pole of the contact, and the black wire to the negative pole.

The voltage of a healthy, fully charged battery should be between 12.4 and 12.6 volts. Of course, at a lower voltage, the battery will turn the starter, but more charge is needed.

However, before doing this, it is worth checking the condition of the generator and the magnitude of the charge current. The battery voltage is checked with the engine off and the charging current with the engine running. The voltmeter should indicate between 14 and 14.5 volts while charging.

If the voltage is lower, it is worth checking if all clamps are tight to the poles. If higher, there is a risk of damage. However, this does not apply to cars with energy regeneration, in which this voltage can even reach 16 volts. The problem may be in the electrical wiring, so you need to check for current leakage along the way from the generator to the battery.

Interpretation of the results obtained:

• low electrolyte density in one or two banks and voltage below 11 volts - an internal short circuit has occurred, the current source is unsuitable for further operation;
• normal saturation of the acid solution in the jars and voltage above 12.5 V - full charge;
• low uniform electrolyte density in all banks - the electric storage device needs to be recharged;
• the electrolyte in all banks is brown (voltage measurement is inappropriate in this case) - the battery is worn out or overloaded.

The test is only credible when it is based on the actual loading of the battery with a current proportional to its capacity for 10 seconds. Electronic testers can indirectly indicate the state of an electrical device, but do not provide complete reliable information.

Symptoms of a dead battery:

• low value of electrolyte density;
• large amount of charging current;
• increased heating of the electrolyte during recovery;
• significant reduction in battery capacity.

In the case of a small level of discharge, the battery is charged with a current of 0.02 to 0.05 A. Every 12 hours, you need to take a break for 40 minutes. A heavily discharged car current storage device, for example, 6ST-55, can be restored. To do this, it is necessary to remove the electrolyte from the battery, fill it with purified water and restore it with a current of I \u003d 0.03 to a density index of 1.17 g / cm3. Then drain the contents from the battery, fill it with fresh electrolyte with a density g = 1.28 g / cm3, what volume of electrolyte in a 55 battery can be found in the reference book or manufacturer's instructions.

Charge with a current of I \u003d 0.05 amperes until signs of a full charge appear. After charging, it is recommended to discharge the battery to determine its capacity. If the battery shows 50% of the nominal capacity, the device is suitable for further operation. However, you will have to constantly monitor the amount of electrolyte in the battery 55, since in a worn out current source, increased consumption water.

Battery self-discharge

When the machine is parked for a long time, the power supply is gradually discharged. Self-discharge can be caused by various sensors and relays. Directly to food onboard network connected electrical appliances and mechanisms:

1. Rear window heating relay contact.
2. Gasoline pump.
3. Light switches.
4. Relay contact turn.
5. Trunk light switch.
6. Interior lighting switches.
7. Clock.
8. All drives.
9. Fuel injection relay.
10. Signaling.

To check if there is a current leakage somewhere, it is necessary to turn off all consumers of electrical energy that are permanently connected to the power grid.

Remove the terminal from the battery and connect an ammeter in series. You can first check the test light for the presence of current. If a power leak is still detected after disconnecting potential consumers, all fuses must be removed. If the leak continues, look for the cause in the damaged wiring. To do this, you need to inspect all available bundles of wires. There is a chance there is a bug. If there is no current consumption with the fuses removed, you need to insert them in turn into the sockets, observing the ammeter. Thus, the place of energy leakage will be determined.

Charging the car's energy storage

To charge the battery, in many cases it is enough just to lift the hood, connect the charger and start it. Only in vehicles with delicate electronics and during so-called fast charging (large current) must the battery be disconnected.

If the temperature in the garage is negative, the battery must be removed and moved to a warmer room where there is good ventilation. However, before starting charging, you should give it a little time to recover.

Before charging, it is good to put the battery in order, carefully clean the clamps and contact pins. Be sure to check how much electrolyte is in the battery. If it is too small, it is necessary to add distilled water to such a level that it closes the plates. This can only be done in those cases where plugs are provided. In new cars, as a rule, batteries are completely maintenance-free, they do not replenish the electrolyte, but change the battery.

In models equipped with a color indicator, by color evaluation. Black means appropriate, yellow or white means low.

Before connecting the charger, if necessary, clean the pole pins from white-gray plaque. This can be done with a special tool or with a regular soft brush and fine sandpaper. After cleaning, the pins must be lubricated with technical petroleum jelly.

The battery can be charged with various types of chargers. Most Popular - automatic, which control the magnitude of the voltage. Some types allow you to adjust the charging current. For safety, it is recommended to set 10% of the battery capacity, for example, 55 A / h, you can load with a current of 5 A. The procedure takes about 8 hours on average, and after this time the charger turns off automatically or you can turn it off yourself.

Precautionary measures

Disconnecting the charger, in principle, most dangerous operation. Theoretically, this can even lead to an explosion, but without exaggeration. An explosive is hydrogen that is released during a chemical reaction in an electrolyte. Such situations tend to occur in automotive workshops rather than individual garages where users use small chargers.

However, it is worth remembering that the loaded battery must not be approached with an open flame or a lit cigarette. If charging takes place in the garage, you should first ventilate it slightly before turning off the charger. You can remove the terminals from the battery after disconnecting the charger from the AC mains.