Decarbonization of cylinders. Decarbonization of piston rings. Decarbonization of a boxer engine

Sooner or later, carbon deposits form in any engine. First, the rings become coked, then deposits appear on the valve system in the combustion chamber. The addition of special additives, the use of high-quality oil and proper operation significantly reduce the intensity of contamination, but do not eliminate the problem completely. Motorists have to resort to special vehicles.

Coking of rings: reasons

If the engine system is in good working order and the vehicle is used correctly, minimal carbon deposits will form. A certain amount of oil still enters the combustion chamber, causing the build-up of a layer of soot/varnish on the cylinder-piston group. In this case, decarbonization may be necessary once per 100 thousand km or even less often.

But the influence of additional factors can speed up the process. Premature coking is provoked by:

• overheating of the engine, its boiling - if the piston heats up above the coking temperature, carbon deposits form much more intensely;
• low fuel quality;
• low quality motor oil, the presence of questionable additives in it;
• engine oil does not correspond to that recommended by the manufacturer;
• driving with a cold engine;
• constant driving at low speeds;
• constant driving increased loads;
• violation of the formation and/or combustion of the air-fuel mixture; An excessively enriched fuel mixture is also detrimental to the engine.

First of all, the products of oil combustion settle on the oil scraper rings, as well as on the pistons, inside the combustion chamber, and on the valves. In the latter case, carbon deposits prevent the valve from fitting tightly to the seat, which leads to incorrect engine operation.

The following signs indicate the need for decoking:

• increased oil consumption (the norm is 100 g per 1 thousand km);
• change in exhaust color to bluish or white;
• reduction in engine power;
• decreased compression in one or more cylinders;
• increase in exhaust toxicity, appearance of a characteristic odor.

What are the consequences of coking of piston rings?

Even with slight carbon deposits, the operation of the cylinder is disrupted. piston group. More and more oil enters the combustion chamber, and carbon deposits begin to accumulate more intensely. If decarbonization is not carried out in time, the layers of soot will thicken until the elements of the propulsion system completely fail.

A large layer of coke on the valves leads to a decrease in compression in the cylinders, later to burnout of the valves, squeezing out piston rings.

Decoking of engine rings: how is it done?

If a motorist decides to clean the engine himself, he needs to buy a special composition for hard decarbonization and use it according to the instructions. When purchasing, you should pay attention to what type of engine (petrol, diesel) the product is intended for, as well as the volume of the container. Some packages are designed to fill only one cylinder.

Sometimes car owners prepare the cleaning liquid themselves by mixing acetone and kerosene (2:1 or 1:1). In terms of effectiveness, such products are inferior to professional formulations; its use can do more harm than good.

Do-it-yourself decarbonization is carried out in several steps:

• The engine warms up to operating temperature. You need to let him work on it idle speed 5-10 minutes. This will allow the cleaning composition to better cope with its task.
• Coming off the reels high voltage wires.
• The spark plugs are removed.
• Low voltage wires are removed.
• The oil is drained into a clean container. You will need it later.
• Cleaning liquid is poured into the cylinders through the spark plug hole. You can use a syringe. It is more efficient to decarbonize all cylinders at once.
• The pistons are set to the middle position. To do this, you need to turn the crankshaft and, using an auxiliary tool (you can use a wire), set the piston in the desired position.
• The spark plugs are screwed in slightly (but not completely), and the car is left alone for up to 12 hours (depending on the manufacturer's instructions on the cleaning solution packaging).
• After 6-12 hours, the candles are carefully unscrewed. If you do this carelessly, the decarbonizing liquid will “fly away” into the crater, and the softened carbon deposits will splash out.
• The oil cap is unscrewed, the liquid in which the carbon deposits have dissolved is carefully drained.
• The oil drained at the beginning of the procedure is poured back into the engine.
• Without replacing the spark plugs and ignition coil, the engine cranks on the starter for 5-10 minutes.
• The system is being assembled. After this, you need to drive the car for 20 minutes for better cleaning. During the process, it is recommended to increase the speed to 4000 from time to time.
• Finally, change the oil and oil filter. Sometimes the spark plugs also need to be replaced.

When driving after the procedure, you may notice that the exhaust has an unnatural color. It is recommended to perform a test drive away from busy highways and traffic police posts.

Prevention of coking or easy cleaning

Decarbonization of engine rings can be done in a gentle manner. To do this, a special composition for gentle cleaning is added to the engine oil before changing it. Then the car is operated in gentle conditions for 100-300 km, after which the oil is changed.

In recent years, you can find products for the so-called dynamic decarbonization on sale. A special composition is added to the fuel and, entering the combustion chamber with it, penetrates the coke layer, destroying it. The vehicle is operated under normal conditions. This method is also suitable for prevention, but not for eliminating severe soot.

Cleaning Features

Despite its apparent simplicity, the procedure for cleaning the engine has many nuances and complexities. Before you begin, you should learn how to decarbonize the engine correctly. An error may require major repairs or re-cleaning at a car service center.

Important details:

• The quality of cleaning depends on the quality of the composition. If you decide to save on the services of a specialist, then do not skimp on at least the composition for decarbonization.
• Violation of the procedure technology leads to incomplete dissolution of carbon deposits. For example, rapid cooling of the engine in cold weather reduces the effectiveness of the solvent. Therefore, in the cold season, it is better to carry out decarbonization in a workshop where there is a special room.
• Solvents are toxic and hazardous to health. Working in a room without good ventilation (for example, in a closed garage in winter), the car owner can get seriously poisoned.
• Features of the procedure depend on the type of engine. It will be difficult for a non-specialist to remove the spark plugs of a V-shaped or boxer engine and add solvent. Boxer engines have a non-standard arrangement: the spark plugs are difficult to reach, and the cleaning composition can leak if not handled carefully.
• To decarbonize a diesel engine, you will have to remove the injectors. To do this you will need a special tool.
• Without experience, it is difficult to set the pistons exactly in the middle position.
• You need to guess the amount of solvent being poured. The volume of the combustion chamber depends on the specific motor, and the instructions for using the cleaning agent are almost the same. It takes years of experience to know how much solvent to add. If you overdo it, the excess will get into the oil mixture and damage the rubber parts. If you don’t add enough, the carbon deposits will not be cleared.

After decoking, the engine regains its original performance qualities, its service life increases - but only if all the work was done correctly. If you do not have experience and value your car, it is better to contact a service center for decarbonization.

Recently, engine decarbonization has become a widely discussed procedure. This procedure is quite widely discussed in motorist circles. In this regard, the question arises: is the engine decarbonization procedure useful at all? As a result, it turns out that opinions may differ, since no one will give a one hundred percent guarantee that the engine will be improved. Each engine has its own diseases, and because of this, each engine requires an individual treatment approach.

Thus, decarbonization is a preventive procedure that allows you to maintain the engine in good condition for a longer period. good condition, and not a means of its complete resuscitation and complete renewal.

Decarbonization is inherently a fairly simple procedure. However, there are some rules that you need to know before you get started. If the motor is “sick” and not completely “killed”, then you can always try to cure it. If the engine is healthy, when solid mileage, you need to “take vitamins” for prevention.

1. Engine decarbonization - nature of contamination

Often, the category of drivers who need to decarbonize their diesel engine turns to a car service center. This is directly related to the fact that difficulties arise when removing diesel injectors. In most cases, it is still possible to achieve a positive outcome. However, situations arise when decarbonization, which was carried out incorrectly, may require a major overhaul of the engine.

Initially, for this procedure to be successful and quite effective, you need to know exactly the reasons why the carbon deposits formed. Often the main reason for the appearance of soot is the use of low quality fuel. Because of this, deposits of carbon created from unburned fuel residues appear in the combustion chamber itself.

The same thing happens with those valves that simply burn out for this reason. Due to various types of additives, piston rings become overgrown with deposits, which increase octane number fuel.

As a result, compression in the cylinders themselves drops, which may result in a decrease in engine power. Poor starting is also noticeable, as is excessive consumption of fuel and oil. As a result of all this, wear of the entire piston group accelerates. That is why most motorists are faced with the question of how to properly decarbonize the engine.

2. Means for engine decarbonization - methods of combating carbon deposits

IN modern world There are two most common methods for carrying out the engine decarbonization procedure: hard and soft. Both methods have both positive and negative aspects. In addition to these methods, one cannot help but pay attention to new methods, the basis of which is the chemical industry - there are special liquids that can clean the engine at the time of its direct operation.

Thus, the car enthusiast himself can choose which method to choose and use to improve the performance of his main unit. Below we will indicate all the positive aspects, as well as the negative ones, of these types of decaring - soft and hard, as this is necessary for a broad knowledge of the car owner.

3. Liquid for engine decarbonization

In the modern world, there is a special liquid that is used directly to decarbonize the engine. It allows you to carry out the decarbonization procedure while the car is moving. It must be poured into fuel tank car, and from there it enters the combustion chamber along with the fuel. Thus, complete burnout of all deposits existing there will occur, and the remnants of these deposits will come out through the gas exhaust system.

This method is the most economical and simple. It does not require special tools or skills. And the most successful thing is that this method is the most effective of all known today.

Soft and hard decoking methods are also effective. The principle is quite similar and similar to the above, but as there should always be, there are certain differences that allow one method to dominate over the other, attracting more people to use it.

Since the entire decarbonization process can be carried out by yourself and all methods are suitable for this procedure alone, they will be described in the next paragraph of the plan.

4. How to decarbonize the engine yourself

It was already mentioned above that there are two main ways to de-carbonize an engine: “soft” and “hard”. Due to the rapid development automotive technology a third method arose, which is the most effective and least expensive of those proposed.

If soft cleaning is used, special means are used for this procedure, which allow cleaning only the piston rings. This product is added to the oil approximately 200 km before its scheduled replacement. During this period, the engine is operated in light mode, so heavy loads should be avoided.

After this point, it is imperative to change the engine oil. There is a significant drawback of this method: cleaning occurs only for the piston rings, while the valves and combustion chamber are not cleaned. Based on this, such partial loosening does not lead to an excellent result, but can serve as a kind of light help for the engine.

Also, most of the preparations used for this decarbonization are traditional washing liquids. oil system, and as you know, cleaning components are added to them to remove carbon deposits.

Thus, there is a certain overpayment, since all the necessary elements exist in conventional drugs, which are much cheaper and, perhaps, of higher quality than those offered. And yet, it is advisable to use this type of decarbonization for prevention, since it is in no way suitable for the complete treatment of the engine. It can be used at every oil change.

The old and proven “grandfather’s method” is the most common. This method is called “hard decoking”. The essence of this process is also quite simple. First, you need to place the car in a horizontal position, after which the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature.

At this moment you need to unscrew the spark plugs or remove the injectors. It is necessary to turn the crankshaft and, using a screwdriver, set the pistons to the middle position. “Nuclear” auto chemicals must be poured into each cylinder directly into the combustion chamber. After that, you need to leave it there for certain time(up to 12 hours) to soften the carbon deposits. The engine needs to be warmed up to intensify the procedure, since in this case a “steam bath” effect will be created and the carbon deposits will soften significantly. In this case, it is advisable to close the candle wells by lightly filling the candles.

This is done so that the engine cools down longer, but the ignition must be turned off. After this procedure, it is necessary to unscrew the spark plugs and, by turning the crankshaft from the combustion chamber with the starter, remove all cleaning fluid that has not leaked into the crankcase. The spark plug holes can be covered with a rag so that dirt does not fly away and stain the entire engine compartment. After this, after tightening the spark plugs, you need to start the engine and let it run at different speeds, or drive about 50 km. After this, it is imperative to change the oil.

There are many obvious disadvantages with this type of procedure: efficiency depends entirely on the selected auto chemicals and the type of engine; The problem is not always completely removed; sometimes it is only possible to remove carbon deposits; auto chemicals of this kind are very toxic; recommended only in warm weather conditions; It is difficult to calculate how much fluid needs to be poured into each cylinder and where the middle position of the piston is.

Since a lot of words have already been said about liquid engine degassing, there is no point in saying more about it, since it is a leader in all respects among its peers in this type of work.

Information about cleaning the engine from carbon deposits (otherwise known as decoking) will be useful to those car enthusiasts who constantly operate one car for a long time and try to maintain it themselves. This procedure is rather preventive in nature, although in some cases it allows for resuscitation. power unit and extend the mileage before major repairs by 5–20 thousand km. How to decarbonize an engine with your own hands and what means are used for this, read in this publication.

Where does carbon deposits come from and where does it accumulate?

The cleaning procedure is not a panacea and does not always help, and sometimes gives the exact opposite effect. To use the technique correctly and on time, you need to understand the reason for the formation of deposits and the consequences of this phenomenon.

Cylinder piston (CPG) and valve group of the engine internal combustion works in difficult conditions - at high pressure and temperature. Over time, the rubbing surfaces of the parts wear out, and the seals lose their tightness, which is why engine oil begins to penetrate into the combustion chambers. The combustion conditions of the air-fuel mixture worsen as the lubricant burns out and forms a hard deposit on all accessible surfaces:

• piston skirts and chamber walls - first of all;
• side surfaces of the pistons in contact with the cylinder walls;
• the front planes of the valves and their internal surfaces adjacent to the seats;
• grooves for piston rings and holes for draining liquid lubricant (located deep in the groove of the oil scraper ring).

At the same time, the electrodes of the spark plugs become covered with soot, which reduces the quality of spark formation.

When the amount of lubricant penetrating inside the cylinder becomes critical, black coke clogs all possible cracks and holes. Because of this, the rings get stuck in the grooves (in the jargon they lie), causing the actual compression in the cylinders to drop by 50-90%. A valve that is burnt on the seat side will not close hermetically, and then the compression pressure will drop completely to zero - the cylinder will completely fail. The consequences can be prevented if the engine is decarbonized in time.

When to decarbonize the engine?

The procedure gives a positive result if performed in a timely manner. You can’t delay it too much - you’ll just waste your money, because chemicals are not cheap. When decarbonization becomes useless:

1. When driving for a long time with high oil consumption. If the engine “devours” 1 liter of lubricant per 1000 km or more, and you do not take any measures for 2–4 months, then get ready to do major renovation. The carbon deposits will clog the rings and oil drain holes so much that chemicals will not help, only mechanical cleaning.
2. If compression in one or two cylinders has dropped to zero. This indicates burnt valves that the cleaner will not pick up.
3. If noise or knocking occurs in the engine, requiring immediate replacement of parts.

You can perform decarbonization at your own risk, but with the listed symptoms, the chances of success are extremely low. Sometimes the opposite effect is observed - after cleaning, the compression in the engine drops and further driving becomes impossible, the engine loses a lot of power.

The reason for the phenomenon is the same carbon deposits. By covering all accessible surfaces, the coke begins to serve as a seal instead of the piston rings and, together with the lubricant, creates increased pressure in the chamber, sufficient to ignite the fuel mixture (so-called oil compression). After cleaning, the seal deposit disappears, and the pressure in the cylinders drops due to wear of the CPG elements. The motor refuses to work.

Practice shows that special liquid to decarbonize the engine, it should be used at a consumption of engine lubricant of 0.3–0.5 liters per 1 thousand kilometers. At this moment, intensive carbon deposits begin, but irreversible consequences have not yet occurred. If the culprits of the oil burn are valve seals, then after the procedure they can be changed and driven over 20 thousand km, provided that the CPG is in satisfactory condition.

Selecting a cleaning product

In car stores and markets you can find a wide variety of chemicals that are declared by manufacturers as effective cleaners of coke from power unit parts. Which of them are used most often and have earned a positive reputation:

• Mitsubishi Shumma;
• GZox;
• BJ-211;
• Lavr.

The first 2 drugs are liquid in aerosol packaging with a capacity of 220 and 300 ml, respectively, pumped into cylinders through a tube. The remaining two products are poured in using a syringe. As a rule, one package - a can or bottle - is enough to service one four-cylinder engine with a working volume of up to 1.6 liters. For higher power engines with 6–12 cylinders, 2–3 tanks will be needed.

A few words about the best way to clean the engine. The undisputed leader is considered to be Mitsubishi Shumma, tested in practice by many master mechanics. There is only one drawback - the price of the drug is too high (about 30 USD per can). An alternative is GZox aerosol, which shows similar results at half the cost. Liquids BJ-211 and Lavr close the list of the best cleaners present on the automotive chemicals market.

Advice. Should not be used to decarbonize the engine. modern car old “old-fashioned” methods, pouring a mixture of acetone with solvent (kerosene) and other ineffective liquids into the cylinders. They act too slowly and do not dissolve carbon deposits well.

Preparing to remove carbon deposits

Before decarbonizing the cylinder-piston group of the engine, it is necessary to thoroughly prepare. First of all, allocate time – the entire procedure takes 8–15 hours. The exact holding time is indicated on the packaging of the cleaning fluid. It is advisable to time the operation at the time of oil change, since some of the dissolved coke will drain into the crankcase and the lubricant will have to be changed in any case.

To decarbonize a worn-out motor yourself, you should prepare the following materials and spare parts:

• cleaning agent;
• engine oil and filter;
• new spark plugs;
• bolts - plugs that fit the thread instead of lambda probes.

There is no need to create special conditions for carrying out work; it is enough to have a flat area near the house or a garage. It is advisable to have a compressor as equipment, but you can do without it.

The preparatory stage includes the following operations:

1. Warm up the power unit to a temperature of 60–70 °C, which is necessary to activate most cleaners.
2. Unscrew the oxygen sensors from the exhaust tract and install the plugs from the bolts. The goal is to protect expensive electronic components from clogging and soot.
3. Support the vehicle with wheel chocks and lift any drive wheel.

Decarbonization instructions

When warming up the power unit before cleaning, it is worth pouring a flushing compound into the crankcase - “five minutes” in order to remove dirt from the oil channels as much as possible. You should also measure the compression on a hot engine in advance, this will help you see the result before and after decarbonization.

Perform further actions in this order:

1. Carefully read the instructions on the cleaning product packaging and find out how much liquid needs to be poured into each cylinder of your engine.
2. Remove the spark plugs and clean them thoroughly with a metal brush, rinse with gasoline and blow out.
3. While turning the drive wheel by hand with 5th gear engaged, set all pistons to the middle position, measuring the depth with a long screwdriver.
4. Lowering the tube one by one into the spark plug holes, fill the cylinders with aerosol from a spray can. Decarbonization of the Lavr engine is carried out using a syringe (included with the drug).
5. Screw the spark plugs back in without tightening them all the way.
6. Leave for 8–15 hours, periodically moving the crankshaft by turning the wheel. The goal is to help fluid penetrate between the piston rings.

After the time specified in the instructions has passed, unscrew the spark plugs again and try to pump out the dissolved dirt from the cylinders with a syringe, and then blow it thoroughly with a compressor. The better you can clean out the remaining coke, the faster the engine will start.

Install the old spark plugs and start the engine without increasing the speed above 1500 rpm. Let it warm up and “spit out” pieces of carbon deposits through the exhaust tract. After 10–15 minutes of engine operation, when the smoke from the exhaust decreases, return the lambda probes to their place and begin replacing the engine lubricant.

Screw in new spark plugs last, after cleaning the power unit and changing the oil. Before installing spark plugs, re-measure the compression and make sure that the measure has a positive effect. If the result is negative, begin preparations for disassembling and overhauling the motor.

Decoking of a diesel engine differs in the method of filling the cylinders with a chemical. Since there are no spark plugs, the fluid is poured through the injector holes. The latter will have to be dismantled after first releasing the fuel pressure in the system and turning off the pump.

Problems associated with the appearance of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber of a car are the result of diagnostics and repairs that were not carried out in a timely manner, and that decarbonization was not carried out.

For example, the driver was not alerted by blue smoke from exhaust pipe. The piston rings, worn down to holes, began to leak oil, which, when burned, covered everything with soot. What to do? Let's figure it out.

What is decarbonization?

Decoking is the cleaning of the engine combustion chamber from carbon deposits and coke. This is done using special chemicals or various solvents.

It is better to periodically decarbonize the engine as a preventive measure, because emergency removal of carbon deposits already falls into the category of global engine repair.

The fact is that it is necessary to eliminate not only coke, but also the cause of its occurrence. The most common of them is described above. However, the engine gets dirty even in the absence of problems - the fuel also burns with all the consequences.

Engine cleaning methods

If there is no serious problem, then you can do preventative decoking yourself. To do this, you need to add the selected liquid to the engine oil shortly before it is completely replaced (in order to drain the deposits along with the oil). You can add various additives to the fuel, it all depends on the specific purpose.

In general, all decarbonization methods are divided into 2 types:

• Soft method. The liquid is added directly to the oil. To do this, use products designed for gentle cleaning. Rude ones, in this case, can do more harm than good. The method is good for prevention, but completely unsuitable for removing serious contaminants. At best, it will help clean the lower piston rings, which become dirty first. The most popular products include the Gzox and Kangaroo brands. They will cost around 500 rubles.
• Hard method. Aggressive cleaning agents are poured inside through the spark plug holes or injectors directly into the combustion chamber. This method is suitable for removing serious deposits of carbon deposits. It cleans the piston well, as well as the chamber itself. The engine must be warmed up before using this method. After filling the liquid, it is recommended to lightly string the spark plugs to slow down the cooling of the engine. For best result, you need to keep the liquid inside for from half an hour to half a day. It all depends on the manufacturer's recommendations. And finally, the outcome of “hard” treatment VERY depends on the quality of the chemistry used. After all, it’s not for nothing that this method is called hard.

Carbon removers

There are enough available on the market large selection specialized means. They are reliable and are exactly the means for decarbonization. For comparison, the same Dimexide (a very popular remedy) is a medicine that simply, in combination, can help with this problem.

But all special equipment has one big disadvantage - the high price.

Therefore, many car enthusiasts choose products “from what they had.” The above-mentioned Dimexide and descaling agents, etc. are also used. They are cheap and almost always at hand, but this kind of additive is a frankly old-fashioned method, more suitable for cars of the same type.

Let's take a closer look at the most popular means and features of their use:

1. Mitsubishi Shumma. It is rightfully considered one of the the best means to remove serious contaminants. This is what the manufacturers recommend sports cars. It is classified as aggressive, so it must be used strictly according to the instructions. But even Schumma cannot be a 100% panacea - there are situations when it can cause harm. For example, if the amount of carbon deposits in the chamber exceeds all permissible limits and the rings have already sagged. In this case, when the volume of the chamber increases (after removing the muck from there), the dead rings will ensure a decrease in compression and the engine will simply lose power. Therefore, before using any harsh cleaning product, you need to do a complete engine diagnostics.
2. Gzox. According to the manufacturer, the coverage area of ​​this product is the injectors and carburetor. Don't let this fool you - it is quite suitable for gentle cleaning of rings. Taking into account the specifics, Gzox is added to the oil. It’s better not to expect miracles, but it will do for prevention.

Domestic analogues

1. Lavr ML Domestic chemicals recommended for use only as a last resort. Despite creating an extremely harsh environment inside the engine, it copes poorly with carbon deposits - at best, it liquefies it. When cleaning heavy dirt, the camera is practically useless. But it cleans oil scraper rings quite well. After use, changing the oil is simply vital. It is better to find a higher quality analogue.
2. Edial. A relatively good hybrid engine decarbonizer. It is a fuel additive, which is why it falls into the category of soft agents. Unlike most analogues, it works while driving. It effectively copes with medium-sized stains, but in severe cases (when the rings are already stuck) it is, alas, unable to help. Before adding, you need to make sure the tank is at least half full. This is necessary for a more uniform distribution of the liquid and its subsequent production.
3. Dimexide. Decarbonizing an engine with dimexide is a very risky business. On the one hand, it is able to remove all carbon deposits cleanly, but on the other hand, it corrodes everything it touches. Paint, hands - all this should be protected as much as possible. Only works when hot. To avoid crystallization of the substance, when cooling the engine, it is necessary to immediately pump it out. If you have the courage to flush the combustion chamber with it, then be prepared for a strong stench that will poison you and those around you from the exhaust pipe for a long time. After use, be sure to change the oil and rinse the engine with a special lubricant for flushing.
4. Slab cleaner. Know-how among car enthusiasts, but it has some effectiveness. But only when cleaning individual parts. That is, the motor will have to be disassembled first. It is ineffective as a decoking agent, but it will be possible to clean the pistons. It is dangerous for the skin, so do not forget about gloves and other precautions.

It is better to decarbonize the engine in a timely manner. In many cases, it makes it possible not to bring the engine to major repairs, which are not cheap. Decarbonization is essentially cleaning it from carbon deposits that arise during operation. This problem is faced by drivers who own cars with high mileage. The condition of the engine is also greatly influenced by the quality of the materials used. lubricants and fuel. Therefore, you should not save when selecting oils and fuel for refueling your car, as this will lead to expensive repairs.

The need to decarbonize the engine

This process involves cleaning carbon deposits from the piston ring grooves. Such work can be performed in a variety of ways and can be full or part-time. The need for decarbonization is determined by certain signs in the operation of the engine:

• The appearance of dense black or bluish smoke.
• Significant increase in fuel consumption.
• Problems starting the engine.
• Reduced motor power.

The main reason for the appearance of carbon deposits in the fuel chamber and on the valves is prolonged operation of the engine at low speeds, with prolonged and frequent standing in city traffic jams. Driving with an insufficiently warmed-up engine or using low-quality motor oil or fuel will lead to the same result. Soot occurs due to partial combustion of the combustible mixture, then the situation is complicated by the action of carbon particles exhaust gases. A lot of soot is formed due to coking of the engine.

If the above symptoms occur, many auto repair shops recommend doing a major overhaul of the engine, which is an expensive and complex job.

If you decarbonize, it often helps recovery normal operation motor and solving other problems. Such work will cost much less and require less time.

Decarbonization is not a solution to absolutely all problems, but only makes it possible to partially extend engine performance. It is usually customary to perform such work in the fall or spring to prepare the car for the change of season. Previously, drivers usually did this work themselves. Currently, drivers of modern cars most often use the services of car service specialists. This is more due to the emergence of new engine models in which it is difficult to get to the injectors or spark plugs.

The following parameters depend on the condition of the oil scraper rings:

• Level of harmful emissions of exhaust gases.
• Engine fuel and oil consumption.
• Power of the power unit.

Each engine element plays an important role in its operation, so it is necessary to regularly check the functionality of the oil scraper rings.

The main purpose of oil scraper rings is to remove heat from the piston. If the heat is not removed, this will lead to negative consequences on which the operation of the engine will depend; it may jam. The consequences may be burnout and piston scuffing. In addition to heat removal, the combustion chamber is sealed and the moving parts in the cylinder are lubricated, which prevents parts from overheating during friction and their rapid wear.

If we take into account today's prices for spare parts, then periodically checking the condition of the rings will cost much less than replacing the piston group.

Before considering malfunctions and methods for decoking rings, you should familiarize yourself with design features oil removal rings. One-piece rings are rarely used on modern cars, and some models were discontinued. Their increased rigidity makes them inapplicable for high-quality removal of oil from the cylinder, since the rings do not adhere well to the surface.

Nowadays, rings consisting of several parts are mainly produced. The three-piece rings include two steel plates and coil springs. They are most often used on gasoline engines. Among all the advantages, one can note its best fit to the surface of the cylinder over its entire area. The design of the rings, consisting of two elements, includes a ring and a spring. The good flexibility of the spring allows the ring to fit well to the cylinder. The tightness of the spring ensures the integrity of the entire structure.

Reasons for ring coking

During engine operation, the combustible mixture burns partially, which contributes to the accumulation of combustion products in the cylinder cavity. When using low-quality fuel, the piston rings coke much faster. The quality of the engine oil also affects ring coking.

1. Failure of the oil reflecting caps leads to the penetration of engine oil into the combustion chamber. In this case, the valve stem seals should be replaced, which will significantly increase engine compression, resulting in an increase in its power.
2. Coking of the piston rings leads to oil penetration into the cylinders. When oil burns, carbon deposits form, leading to a decrease in compression.

To solve such problems in the retail chain, there are various specialized products that can be purchased at car dealerships. They are called decarbonizers.

Piston rings work intensively, which causes their wear. Standard rings wear out after 200 thousand kilometers, but when correct operation the engine of a new set of rings can last for 500 thousand km. The quality of the engine oil and failure to replace it negatively affect the condition of the piston rings and can lead to sticking in the piston grooves. When driving frequently in dusty areas, air and fuel filter must be in good condition. To do this, it is necessary to periodically inspect the filters.

There are many signs that determine the need to replace rings or repair an engine:

• Dirty spark plugs.
• The gaskets and seals are black with oil, even though they were recently replaced.
• Formation of bluish smoke when the car starts to move.
• Oil consumption has increased significantly.

If any signs of wear appear, you should first check the condition of the piston rings. To check the valve stem seals, it is necessary to disconnect the engine ventilation pipe. If there is high pressure in the crankcase, this means the oil seals are worn out, which requires their immediate replacement.

Engine decarbonization methods

• Partial decarbonization. Experts call this method soft. Before changing the engine oil, a special agent is added to its composition. Then oil is poured into the engine and driven for some distance without loading the engine too much. It is not recommended to drive at high speeds. After 200 km the oil is changed. This is a simple and inexpensive method. In this case, only certain parts of the engine are cleaned, but the combustion chamber is not cleaned. This is more of a preventative measure carried out when changing the oil.
• Complete decarbonization. This method is tough and allows you to clean the engine most efficiently. However, doing such work requires a lot of time. The machine must be installed on a lift or pit in a horizontal position. The engine is warmed up to operating parameters.

There are many different methods of engine decarbonization that are used at service stations. We will consider the most popular and reliable method - complete decarbonization.

1. Before decoking, the engine should be warmed up to operating temperature.
2. Unscrew the spark plugs.
3. Using a jack, raise the drive wheel and set the gear to overdrive. Next, you need to rotate the wheel until the pistons are in the middle position. You can use a screwdriver to determine their position.
4. In this case, we will use a tool called “SURM”. It is used by many masters and is considered quite effective. You need to take 25 milligrams of this product into a syringe and inject it into the cylinder through the spark plug mounting hole. This process is done for each cylinder.
5. After pouring the product, you must wait 15 minutes for the carbon deposits to dissolve. During this time, you need to turn the wheel a little so that the liquid penetrates the rings. The wheel turns every three minutes. In this case, no extra turns are required.
6. Disconnect the middle wire of the distributor and fix its contacts at a distance of several mm from the engine housing. This will prevent the ignition coil from malfunctioning.
7. Turn on neutral speed and turn the starter for about 10 seconds. So it is necessary to force the flushing agent out of the cylinders. This is a very important point, since the presence of liquid in the cylinders when starting the engine can lead to water hammer, which in turn will lead to damage to engine parts.
8. Install the spark plugs in their places and start the engine. At first, the exhaust gases will emit an unpleasant odor, but this will quickly pass.

The engine must be running idling about 15 minutes. After this you can start moving. After driving 200 kilometers, you can check the oil consumption by comparing the new readings with the old ones, the difference should be obvious.

Decarbonizers

If carbon deposits occur in the cylinders, it should be removed quickly. For this procedure, various chemical reagents are used. The most effective way is to pour a special chemical reagent into the engine cylinder.

These methods are the simplest, but experts do not recommend their use. However, many car owners use this simple method by adding the purchased product to fuel or oil. Often this method gives results.

The most commonly used liquid is SURM, as it has proven its effectiveness for a long time. The product is domestic, so it is easy to purchase at any auto supply store. Its main advantage is that after decarbonization, an oil change is not required.

There are other products that are no less effective, but after them you need to change the oil to a new one, and this requires additional financial costs.

Using the domestic product SURM, we obtain:

• Reducing the amount of harmful exhaust gases.
• Reducing engine oil and fuel consumption.
• Increased engine power.

Modern developments by scientists compete with each other, providing great opportunities for the buyer. All chemical reagents have their own parameters and characteristics, price, composition, and method of application.

Each chemical has instructions for use, so we will look at brief parameters and properties of popular decarbonizers.

• "Lavr ML-202" is a Russian product, one of the most widely used chemicals for cleaning piston rings. Great option, giving good results at a low price. Used as Hado for prophylactic purposes. Normalizes compression, cleans rings and grooves, as well as the walls of combustion chambers. Once in the cylinder, the liquid turns into a vapor state, and clears carbon deposits in 1 hour.
• "Liqui Molly OiI-Schlamm-Spulung" is practically an effective additive for the lubrication system. Tests have not confirmed its sufficient effectiveness.
• “Vince” is a product that cleans the intake manifold, regulates compression, cleans the grooves of the piston rings, ensures the necessary mobility of the valves and removes vibration. To use it, special tools are required. Produces good results when all instructions are met.
• "Hado Antikoks" shows very good results in all characteristics, but it has a high price.

If you have little experience in car maintenance, and you are not confident in the success of decarbonizing the rings, then it is better to contact a car repair shop.

An old effective method has been used for a long time, the secrets of which we will share here. To do this, prepare a simple product consisting of two components: kerosene and acetone. Their ratios can vary depending on desire, but most often three parts of acetone and one part of kerosene are used. Some home craftsmen say that you need to add more oil, but in this case there will be no benefit from it. The amount of the product received is 300 grams for the entire engine.

After preparing the special product, you can begin decoking. First, unscrew the spark plugs. In this case, the engine must be warm. This prepared mixture is poured into the cylinders. It is prohibited to do this procedure on a hot engine, since acetone can boil at elevated temperatures, which will lead to it splashing out and getting on the paintwork of the body and areas sensitive to chemicals.

Next, the candles are put in place and waited for about 12 hours. Then unscrew the spark plugs again and turn the starter for 15-20 seconds to expel excess fluid from the cylinders. If the spark plugs are not unscrewed, the spark plugs will become very dirty.

Before cranking the engine with the starter, removed candles, you need to turn off the spark supply to the high-voltage wires by removing the central wire from the distributor or from the ignition coil.

When purging the cylinders, you should cover the engine with some material to protect the paintwork from contact with caustic liquid.

At the end of the whole process, you need to start the engine and drive a little in different speed limits. At the same time, it is not recommended to drive near traffic police posts, as they may find the smoky exhaust suspicious. This procedure is carried out to consolidate the effect: fill in new oil, preferably cheap, then immediately drain it. Replace the oil filter. After this, you can enjoy driving your car.

How to get rid of carbon deposits with water

Many skilled drivers have learned to use water to remove carbon deposits. This method is not inferior in efficiency to conventional standard methods with chemical reagents. Let's take a closer look at this original method.

Required materials

To perform this cheap method, you need to prepare the following materials:

• Medical dropper.
• Thin plastic or rubber hose.
• Two liters of distilled water.
• Tee for connecting the washer.

Distilled water must be prepared in a plastic bottle.

Procedure

1. Connect the hose from the distilled water bottle to the suction pump. It is convenient to use a dropper for this. If you can’t get distilled water, you can use regular water; the dropper will filter it.
2. When the engine reaches a rotation speed of 2000 rpm, you need to start supplying water.
3. Approximately two drops should be delivered per second. They enter the cylinder at idle and are able to clean carbon deposits.

As a result, carbon deposits will be cleaned, and the engine will operate more dynamically and economically.

Features of decarbonization

Fuel in the modern period has improved significantly compared to the stagnant period. However, this does not protect the engine from the formation of carbon deposits on the piston rings. The same situation is with motor oil: many drivers say that the oil in Soviet times was of very high quality. This may be true, but today not a single master will say that when using it, carbon deposits do not form in the cylinders. Due to the formation of persistent deposits, major repairs will sometimes still have to be performed.

Myths about decoking

Cleaning rings and pistons in an engine always causes a lot of controversy among mechanics and drivers of different ages. Let's look at certain misconceptions that are often encountered.

1. If you use special additives to decarbonize piston rings, the carbon deposits will disappear completely. This is an incorrect statement, since complete cleaning requires the use of a very caustic concentrated product that can corrode engine parts. Excessive engine cleanliness is not required for engine operation.
2. Decarbonization can be performed on a cold engine. Warming up the engine before this process is mandatory, otherwise a positive result will not be achieved.
3. The operating principle of cleaning products is different for each brand of engine. This is also a misconception, since all repair work is carried out in the same way, according to the usual procedure. Therefore, there is no need to look for special products for gasoline or diesel engines. The only limitation is that decarbonization cannot be carried out in winter.
4. The price for decarbonizers is very high. Only beginners say this, chemical reagents are not expensive compared to the price of a major engine overhaul. There are also many domestic manufacturers of piston ring cleaning products that have good quality and low cost.
5. Only XADO and LAVR products are the only methods for cleaning the engine. This is an incorrect statement. Of course, such anti-cokes have a good effect on the condition of the engine cylinders, but such products can only be used for small-displacement conventional engines.
6. Modern engines do not require decoking. The operation of all automotive equipment occurs in various conditions, including in winter. This plays an important role in the occurrence of soot. Modern engines are no exception, and in this regard they are no different from old engines.

There are chemicals that do not require removing the spark plugs. The most popular of them was “Edial”. The method of its use is simple: the product is poured into the fuel tank before refueling.

How to protect your engine from carbon deposits

In order not to deal with carbon deposits, it is better to try to prevent it. You will spend much less money and save your nerves. To do this, you need to follow some recommendations:

• Use special additives.
• Change the oil periodically.
• Warm up the engine before driving, especially in cold weather.
• Operate the car more often and do not sit idle in traffic jams.
• Do not use driving style low revs engine.

If a car consumes oil and fuel above the prescribed value, then decarbonization cannot be avoided - you need to apply one of the methods discussed and put the car's engine in order.

If the engine wear is very high, then decarbonization will no longer help, but will only harm. The engine passes a large amount of gasoline, and it does not burn. Unburned fuel and oil in the cylinder, as well as other substances, form deposits on the piston rings. But with minor wear and tear, the life of the motor will extend slightly. The question of choosing a decarbonization method often arises. When it is necessary to clean the engine from carbon deposits, you should choose the method that is most convenient for you and fits the parameters.

We have looked at a large number of methods for decarbonizing engines, and you can easily choose the required type of cleaning procedure.