Troubleshooting electrical equipment on GAZelle and Sobol, checking voltage, searching for short circuits or breaks, checking de-energized electrical circuits. Main malfunctions of a gazelle car Unstable engine operation at idle

Over the past decades, fuel systems of gasoline engines internal combustion(ICE) have undergone great changes. Carburetor fuel units are no longer produced. They were replaced by nozzles (sprayers, injectors), including direct injection fuel inside the combustion chamber, like diesel engines. Their use made it possible to increase engine power and optimize fuel consumption.

Popular car GAZelle various modifications roams around Russian roads since the early 90s of the last century. During this time it has undergone many changes. Several gasoline engines are working under its hood. ZMZ engines(Zavolzhsky Motor Plant) - 402, 406 and 405. The most successful of them was the injection 405 model, with a power of 152 hp. With. In addition, they are used diesel units- Russian licensed GAZ 560, as well as Cummins 2.8 ICF, 120 horsepower, Chinese assembled, designed in the USA. Cummins have been installed on GAZelle “Business” and “Next” modifications since 2010. An integral part of injection and diesel engines are fuel sprayers.

Parts that make up a gasoline injector

Injectors spray the fuel mixture inside the combustion chambers under high pressure. This ensures complete combustion mixtures. The nozzle of the electromagnetic injector, which sprays fuel, opens and is locked by a shut-off needle. The locking element is controlled electromagnetic field created by the electromagnet winding. If voltage is applied to it, under the influence of the field the needle rises and releases the nozzle, overcoming the force of the pressure spring. An additional filter is installed at the fuel supply inlet.

Video: how an electromagnetic injector works

Injectors for the ZMZ 405 engine

At first, injection internal combustion engines were equipped with domestic sprayers produced by GAZ. But they were forced to abandon them, since these injectors quickly failed. They were replaced by imported ones produced by German companies Bosch, Siemens or analogues - for example, ZMZ Deka.


ZMZ Deka injectors are used for ZMZ 405 engines

Injection distribution is controlled electronic unit(ECU), alternating pulses to the windings of injection electromagnets. As an intelligent device, the control unit constantly monitors and improves operating efficiency fuel system. The fuel supply to each cylinder is synchronized by the engine crankshaft. When the engine starts, fuel is supplied asynchronously, that is, regardless of the position of the crankshaft. The injectors are unpretentious to the quality of gasoline - just like the 405th engine model.

Injectors for Cummins 2.8 ICF engines

Cummins diesel engines do not like low-quality domestically produced diesel fuel. Therefore, it is recommended to install only imported original injectors on them. Although their price is high, sprayers from German manufacturers capable of working reliably for 100-120 thousand km of travel. To prevent them from failing prematurely, you need to install only original filters recommended by the manufacturer.


This is what an injector for a diesel engine looks like

The presented sprayer is a closed type device. Its device is similar to the circuit of an electromagnetic gasoline injector. Injectors are also used open type. Their spray hole is not closed by a shut-off needle. Such devices are less reliable and do not last as long. Closing nozzles go through four stages of the working process:

  • the needle closes the injector nozzle, diesel fuel is not supplied;
  • the needle rises, diesel fuel begins to be injected into the combustion chamber;
  • the nozzle is fully open, fuel is atomized as much as possible;
  • closing phase - the needle lowers, closing the nozzle, the supply of diesel fuel stops.

The latest modifications of Cummins engines are equipped with a Common Rail fuel system. Piezoelectric atomizers are used for it. Their response speed is several times higher than that of electromagnetic injectors. Thanks to this, the supply of diesel fuel is better dosed and its overconsumption is eliminated. The supply of diesel fuel is controlled by a piezoelectric element that can change its size under the influence of an electrical impulse. The piezoelectric crystal controls the valve that regulates the flow of fuel to the injector nozzle.

Basic malfunctions and diagnostics of injectors on GAZelles

If during operation vehicle high-quality fuel was used, filled at the same gas stations - engines and injectors will last a long time. You can drive tens of thousands of kilometers without problems by regularly changing the original fuel filters (every 10–15 thousand km) and cleaning the injectors of toxins. If there is a malfunction inside the fuel system, it has certain symptoms:

  • starting a cold engine is difficult or it does not start;
  • on idle speed the engine is unstable and stalls;
  • popping sounds are heard from the exhaust system;
  • the engine “troits”, one of the cylinders does not function;
  • engine power and acceleration dynamics decrease;
  • failures in engine operation are observed;
  • fuel consumption increases sharply;
  • from exhaust pipe black smoke is coming out.

Injectors are the most susceptible to malfunction. Despite the fact that the fuel passes through a mesh filter and then through two fine filters, over time the nozzles become dirty. Cleaning can be done independently or at a service center. In addition, injectors have a service life during which parts wear out. If washing and cleaning the injectors does not bring results, it is better to replace them with new ones.

How to identify a faulty diesel injector

On power plants Cummins 2.8 ICF You can determine the faulty injector yourself. To do this, you need to find out which of the sprayers sends the most diesel fuel into the return system:


Video: diagnostics of faulty injectors in Cummins engines

Watching the video, you can see that injectors 1 and 4 are working properly. Injectors 2 and 3 will have to be replaced.

Diagnostics of gasoline engine injectors

A non-working gasoline engine injector (ZMZ 406, 405) can be determined without removing it from its seat. To do this you need to perform several simple operations:


How to remove injectors on GAZelles from ZMZ 405 and Cummins

Once you have determined that one or more nozzles are faulty, it is best to replace them with new ones or repair them. Based on the low quality of gasoline and diesel fuel, sprayers rarely last longer than 100 thousand kilometers on diesel engines. On gasoline engines - up to 80 thousand km. The replacement procedure is not difficult. Even a novice motorist can do this.

Removing injectors from ZMZ 405 injection engines

First of all, you should prepare the tools necessary for work:

  • thin slotted screwdriver;
  • open-end wrenches for “10” and “13”;
  • a small empty container for draining gasoline;
  • awl.

Actions are performed in a certain order:

  1. The car is installed on level ground.
  2. The pressure in the fuel line is relieved. To do this, turn off the power to the fuel pump so that it does not function. The engine starts and runs until all the remaining fuel is burned. The engine should stall.
  3. The negative wire is disconnected from the battery.
  4. The air supply duct and the cable that controls the air damper drive will be disconnected from the throttle pipe.
  5. The clamp is loosened and the lower outlet hose is disconnected from the idle air regulator.

    Using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp
  6. The sleeve that ventilates the crankcase is removed.

    Loosen the fasteners and remove the crankcase ventilation hose
  7. The vacuum booster tube is disconnected brake system.

    The clamp is loosened and the vacuum booster hose is disconnected
  8. Loosen the clamp and remove the fuel pressure regulator hose.

    Unscrew the fasteners and remove the fuel pressure regulator hose
  9. Using a key set to “13”, unscrew all the nuts from the intake manifold studs. The negative wires are removed, followed by the intake manifold.

    Remove all nuts and ground wire lugs.
  10. The gasoline supply hose is disconnected from the ramp fitting.

    The fuel hose is disconnected from the ramp
  11. The crankcase ventilation hose is removed from the idle air system pipe.

    The hose ventilating the crankcase is removed
  12. The fuel drain hose is disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator.

    The hose is removed from the pressure regulating device
  13. The fastening screws are unscrewed and the fuel rail is removed.

    Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the ramp
  14. The spring latch of the block is pryed off with an awl, and the control cable connector is removed from the injector socket.

    The control cable connector is removed from the sprayer socket
  15. The injector is removed from the manifold.

    The injector is removed from the manifold socket

Installing a new sprayer and reassembling it is done in the reverse order.

How to Remove Injectors from Cummins Diesel Engines

It is very easy to dismantle the injectors on a Cummins engine. The car owner will be able to remove the injectors, even if he has not done this before. It is enough to have:

  • wrenches for “17” and “13”;
  • thin slotted screwdriver.

First you need to thoroughly clean the niches in which the injectors are installed from dust and dirt. This is best done with compressed air supplied from a compressor.

Then follow a few simple steps:


Installation of nozzles is carried out in the reverse order. If the seals (cuffs) of the fixing bolts and injectors are damaged, they should be replaced with new ones.

Video: dismantling injectors from a Cummins engine

Self-repair of GAZelle injectors

New injectors for gasoline and diesel engines power units they are not cheap. Therefore, instead of purchasing new fuel nozzles, you can repair them. Diagnostics, cleaning and replacement of worn-out spare parts of a faulty injector will cost much less than purchasing a new original injector. Injectors are subject to repair if:

  • The lifespan of the sprayer is less than that for which it is designed;
  • the injector body is not deformed or damaged - there are no cracks or chips;
  • There is no visible damage to the spray hole.

Cleaning, purging and rinsing nozzles

Fuel injectors should be cleaned and flushed throughout their service life. The frequency of this operation is every 30 thousand kilometers. After 100 thousand km, flushing will no longer help; the injectors will have to be changed. Cleaning can be carried out either in service centers or independently. The best way to get rid of dirt and carbon deposits - expose the sprayer to ultrasonic radiation. In addition to this method, service stations clean injectors on special stands, subjecting their bodies and nozzles to washing. And they also produce fuel additives that clean the fuel system, including nozzles.

The most practical cleaning method, which can be carried out even in the field, is self-washing with special liquid compounds. For such cleaning, you can use a can of carburetor cleaner. External carbon deposits are removed using a cloth moistened with the same composition. You can carefully remove solid carbon particles around the nozzle with a needle. The best effect is obtained if you first soak all the injectors in liquid to clean the injector.


The nozzle is cleaned both outside and inside

There are several cleaning methods using available tools. One of the most convenient, which is used for diesel sprayers, will require the following parts:

  • foot pump with pressure gauge;
  • battery and two multi-colored wires;
  • carburetor or injector cleaning fluid.

The flushing process is simple and requires only a few repetitive steps:

  1. The hose is removed from the pump and connected to the fuel fitting of the injector.
  2. Carburetor or injection cleaner is poured into the free end of the hose.
  3. The hose is carefully connected to the pump so as not to spill liquid.
  4. The pump creates pressure, which affects the cleaning composition.
  5. Wires are connected to the battery.
  6. Voltage wires are briefly connected to the control terminals of the injector socket, opening and closing the spray nozzle.

It is important not to reverse the polarity of the wires. The control socket usually has a designation where the plus and minus terminals are located. The injector is flushed until the nozzle sprays liquid well.

Video: self-cleaning a gasoline injector

Replacing rubber seals and rings

At the bottom of the sprayer body there is a seat for a rubber seal. A copper sealing washer is located slightly above the spray hole. The rubber gasket ensures a stable position of the sprayer relative to the engine cylinder block. As soon as it loses its elasticity, a characteristic knock appears, which is often heard in diesel engines with high mileage. Therefore, new cuffs are installed as soon as the injectors are changed or repaired.


The sealing collars are changed each time the injectors are removed from the engine.

To remove used rubber bands and install new ones, a medium-sized slotted screwdriver is sufficient.


A rubber seal is installed in this hole.

Copper sealing washers seal the injector spray hole located in the combustion chamber. They come complete with new injectors. Replacing these washers with the nozzle removed is very easy.


New injectors are equipped with copper sealing gaskets

Injectors - the most important detail car fuel system. The stable operation of the engine depends on their proper functioning. If you regularly clean the injectors from dirt and carbon deposits and change the fuel filters, the nozzles will last a long time. Their service life can reach and even exceed 100 thousand kilometers, with appropriate care and the use of high-quality fuel.

I’ve been doing copywriting for 6 years now, and for the last 4 years I’ve chosen this line of work as my main one. I have an excellent command of the Russian language, and I know English at an intermediate level. During this time, thousands of texts were written on a variety of topics. (1 vote, average: 5 out of 5)

When starting the engine, the crankshaft does not rotate:

– the battery terminals are not securely connected or oxidized;
– the battery is discharged or faulty;
– violation of the integrity of the electrical wiring in the starter circuit;
- faulty traction relay starter;
– the starter is faulty;
– the teeth of the starter drive gear or the teeth of the flywheel ring gear are worn out;
– the engine grounding bus to the car body is disconnected.

The crankshaft rotates, but the engine does not start:

– there is no fuel in the tank;
– the battery is discharged (the crankshaft rotates very slowly);
– the battery terminals are not securely fastened or oxidized;
– elements of the ignition system are damaged ( gasoline engines);
– incorrect gap in spark plugs (petrol engines);


– faulty solenoid valve, shutting off the fuel supply (diesel engines);
– air in the fuel system ( diesel engines);
– mechanical malfunction of the gas distribution system.

Unstable starting of a cold engine:

– the battery is discharged;
– battery terminals are not securely connected or oxidized;
– failure or incorrect adjustment of the interelectrode gaps in the spark plugs (gasoline engines);
– the preheating system is faulty (diesel engines);
– the fuel injection system is damaged (gasoline engines);
– damage to the ignition system (gasoline engines);

Unstable starting of a hot engine:


– damage to the fuel injection system (gasoline engines);
– low compression in the cylinders.

When the starter is turned on, there are extraneous noise:

– the teeth on the starter gear or flywheel ring gear are worn or broken;
– the starter mounting bolts are missing or not securely tightened;
– wear or damage to starter parts.

Stopping the engine after starting:

– unreliable connection of ignition system elements (gasoline engines);
– air leaks in the injection system or intake manifold (gasoline engines);

Unstable engine operation idling:

– filter element is dirty air filter;



– the camshaft cams are worn;

– damage to the fuel injection system (gasoline engines);

Misfires at idle:

– the interelectrode gap is incorrectly adjusted or the spark plugs are worn out (gasoline engines);
– defective high-voltage wires (gasoline engines);
– air leaks in the injection system, intake manifold or hoses (gasoline engines);
– damage to the fuel injection system (gasoline engines);

– uneven or low compression in the cylinders;
– the engine crankcase ventilation hoses are disconnected or leaking.

Misfires throughout the entire engine speed range:

– the fuel filter is dirty;


– air leaks in the injection system, intake manifold or hoses (gasoline engines);
– the interelectrode gap is incorrectly adjusted or the spark plugs are worn out (gasoline engines);
– the ignition coil is faulty (gasoline engines);
– the injector is faulty (diesel engines);
– the distributor breaker cover is faulty (petrol engines);
– uneven or low compression in the cylinders;
– damage to the fuel injection system (gasoline engines).

Engine vibration when accelerating:

– the interelectrode gap is incorrectly adjusted or the spark plugs are worn out (gasoline engines);
– air leaks in the injection system, intake manifold or hoses (gasoline engines);
– damage to the fuel injection system (gasoline engines);
– the injector is faulty (diesel engines).

Unstable engine operation:

– air leaks in the injection system, intake manifold or hoses (gasoline engines);
– the fuel filter is clogged;
– malfunction or low pressure of the fuel supply to the fuel pump (gasoline engines);
– the drainage hole is clogged fuel tank or fuel lines;
– damage to the fuel injection system (gasoline engines);
– injectors are faulty (diesel engines).

Low engine power output:

– the toothed drive belt is installed incorrectly;
– the fuel filter is clogged;
– faulty or low fuel supply pressure of the fuel pump;
– uneven or low compression in the cylinders;
– the interelectrode gap is incorrectly adjusted or the spark plugs are worn out (gasoline engines);
– air leaks in the injection system, intake manifold or hoses (gasoline engines);
– the fuel injection system is faulty (gasoline engines);
– injectors are faulty (diesel engines);
– the fuel injection timing is incorrectly set fuel pump(diesel engines);
– jamming of brakes;
– clutch slipping.

Engine backfires:

– the timing belt is installed incorrectly;
– air leaks in the injection system, intake manifold or hoses (gasoline engines);
– damage to the fuel injection system (gasoline engines).

Low engine oil pressure:

low level oils or the wrong type;
– the oil pressure sensor is faulty;
– motor bearings are worn out or oil pump;
– engine overheating;
– the oil pressure safety valve is faulty;
– the oil receiver strainer is dirty.

The engine runs after the ignition is turned off:


– engine overheating;
– damage to the fuel injection system (gasoline engines);
– the engine stop solenoid valve is faulty (diesel engines).

Engine noise

Engine detonation during acceleration:

– the ignition timing is incorrectly set (gasoline engines);
– the type of spark plugs does not correspond to the required one;
– low octane number fuel;
– air leaks in the injection system, intake manifold or hoses (gasoline engines);
– excessive carbon deposits in combustion chambers;
– damage to the fuel injection system (gasoline engines).

Whistling or wheezing noises:

– the intake manifold or throttle gasket is leaking (gasoline engines);
– the exhaust manifold gasket is leaking;
– vacuum hoses are leaking;
– the cylinder head gasket is broken.

Rattling noises:

– the valve mechanism or camshaft is worn out;
– wear of auxiliary engine elements (water pump, generator, etc.).

Knocking or clunking noises:

– the bearings of the lower head of the connecting rod are worn out (the noise decreases under load);
– the main bearings are worn out (the noise increases under load);
– impacts on the piston (especially on a cold engine);
– engine auxiliary elements are faulty (water pump, generator, etc.).

"Gazelle" is a car that is extremely in demand and popular in our country. On its basis, several different modifications were designed and manufactured, each of which is still used in different parts of our country and abroad.

The popularity of “Gazelle” and “Sable”, as well as other modifications, is due to outstanding technical characteristics, reliability, long service life, and availability of spare parts. Indeed, today it is very simple.

If you are the owner of a Gazelle or Sobol car, it will be useful to know the main faults of the Gazelle and in particular the faults of the 405 Gazelle engine. This will be discussed in this article.

Basic faults

Despite the fact that the Gazelle is considered hardy by truck, harsh operating conditions and poor fuel negatively affect the 405 engine for the Gazelle, as well as other elements of the car. To ensure that Gazelle repairs or Sobol repairs do not have to be done constantly, you need to know the main faults of the car. Among the most vulnerable nodes are:

  • chassis;
  • engine
  • body;
  • fuel system.

Repair of “Sable” or “Gazelle” will be needed in the following cases:

  • knocks and noises occur;
  • power dropped sharply;
  • oil pressure has decreased;
  • consumption of fuel and other consumables has increased.

It should be noted that most of the signs can be heard when the ZMZ-405 engine is running. In extreme cases, replacement will be required. To prevent big problems You should periodically diagnose Gazelle faults. In most cases, identifying the cause of the malfunction and performing qualified repairs on Gazelle-Business can only be done in a specialized car service center.

Features of malfunctions and repair of individual vehicle components

Let's consider the malfunctions and repair features of the most wear-prone components. Among them we highlight three:

  1. Chassis.
  2. Engine.
  3. Body.

What do you need to know about them?

Chassis

Repairing the Gazelle on your own mainly needs to be done due to a malfunction of the vehicle's chassis. It should be noted that when the vehicle is overloaded above standard values, the Gazelle's chassis wears out much faster. Among the most problematic details are:

  • springs;
  • spring bolts;
  • springs and leaf springs;
  • other fasteners.

If such breakdowns occur and the chassis of the Gazelle is not repaired, the speed, controllability, and smoothness of the ride are significantly reduced. To avoid such situations, try:

  1. Overload the machine less.
  2. Regularly diagnose the Sable or Gazelle for faults.
  3. If possible, drive off-road as little as possible.

As for repairing a Gazelle car, most large components cannot be restored. All that remains is to replace the failed part. Various small parts can be replaced, including hubs, bearings, kingpins, nuts, studs, bolts, etc.

Engine 405 "Gazelle"

The engine for the Gazelle car is resistant to overloads and works quite well. However, in some cases it is necessary to repair the 405 Gazelle engine. It should be noted that repairing the Sobol engine yourself is problematic. This is due to the fact that you need to constantly move it to diagnose the engine. You can't do without special taps.

However, there are problems that you can easily deal with on your own. It often happens that a Gazelle with a 405 engine stalls. The cause may be a broken contact to ground. You need to check the wiring and, if necessary, restore it. Without special knowledge, there is a risk of simply causing harm, and complex repairs to the Sobol engine will be required.

Among the most common cases when diagnosing a Gazelle malfunction are various little things, including a clogged filter, problems with the coolant, etc. Here's a small list possible malfunctions:

  1. In cold weather, the internal combustion engine does not start - warm up the system first.
  2. You hear popping noises from the exhaust system or carburetor when you turn on the engine - inspect the air duct and fuel line filters and clean them.

In case of more serious problems, it is not recommended to completely disassemble the unit, as this can lead to more serious malfunctions of the Gazelle engine. The same applies to the repair of power steering, as well as other complex components.

Body of "Sable" and "Gazelle"

WITH appearance You can also handle the body yourself. Among the works it is worth highlighting:

  1. Partial replacement of parts - doors, mirrors, awning and its frame.
  2. Painting parts - we purchase paint of the desired color, prepare the part and carefully paint it in a ventilated room.
  3. Polishing - restores the anti-corrosion protection of external body elements.
  4. Welding is necessary when cracks appear and is performed with subsequent processing of the seams and their painting.

Everything is quite simple and accessible to almost everyone.

It should be noted that diagnosing faults in Sobol and Gazelle is a fairly simple process. To do this, you need to know the basic features of the car, the principles of its design and the most common faults. We hope that the information described above will help you a little with this and repairing the Gazelle with your own hands will become easier!

LIST OF POSSIBLE FAULTS ENGINE 4216 AND METHODS FOR THEIR ELIMINATION

Table 5

Probable Cause

Elimination method

The engine does not start

1. No or insufficient fuel supply.

1.1. Fuel lines and fine fuel filter are clogged;

Wash the filter in gasoline, blow out the fuel lines with compressed air

1.2. The water in the fuel lines and fuel filters

Place the car in a warm room, warm it up and drain the water from the fuel system

2. Cylinder head gasket is broken

Replace gasket

The engine is unstable at idle

1. Air leaks through the gaskets of the intake gas pipeline (intake pipes, receiver)

Replace gaskets. Check the flatness of the inlet and outlet gas pipelines on the surface plate; in case of non-flatness exceeding 0.2 mm , mill the plane of the gas pipeline

2. Malfunctions of ignition system devices

See table 6 in subsection 8.1

The engine does not develop full power

1. Incomplete opening of the throttle when the accelerator pedal is pressed all the way

Adjust throttle opening

2. Air filter dirty

Replace filter element

3. Underestimation of compression in the cylinders (when cranking with the starter with the spark plugs turned out, the pressure measured by the compression meter) should not be lower than 8.4 kgf.cm 2)

1. Loose fit of valves to seats. Grind the valves to the seats.

2. Burning of exhaust valve chamfers. Grind or replace the valves and then grind them in.

3. Extreme wear, breakage or burning piston rings. Replace the piston rings, first clean the grooves in the pistons

4. Damaged cylinder head gasket

Replace gasket

5. Wear of the mirror of cylinder liners and piston skirts to the limit values ​​(maximum installation gap between the liner and the piston skirt 0.2 mm)

Boring and honing the liners to the repair size of the piston ( 100.5 mm ). Select the installation gap between the liner and the piston skirt within 0.036- 0.048 mm

Increased consumption oil (more than 160g/100 km)

1. Increased breakthrough of gases into the oil crankcase due to breakage or fit in the grooves of the piston rings, as well as extreme wear of cylinder liners and pistons

Repair the cylinder-piston group

2. Air filter element clogged to maximum resistance

Replace filter element

3. Oil suction into the intake channels through the gaps between the rods intake valves due to aging or damage to oil seals

Replace oil seals

4. Oil leakage through oil seals and seals

Replace seals, tighten connections, replace gaskets

Extraneous knocking noises in the engine

1. Increased clearances between rocker arms and valve stems

Adjust gaps. Replace worn parts (rocker arms), grind valves

2. “Drowning” of crackers from the valves in the bushing of the plate

Replace crackers

3. Smelting connecting rod bearing

Replace earbuds

4. Formation of scoring on the working surface of the piston skirt

Replace piston. If the liner is damaged, have it honed.

5. Rotating the bushing in the upper head of the connecting rod

Replace connecting rod

6. Excessive wear on the pusher end camshaft

Replace the pusher

7. The gaps between the cylinders and pistons have been increased beyond the permissible limit (a knock can only be heard on a cold engine)

Repair the cylinder-piston group

8. Increased axial play of the camshaft due to wear on the end of the timing gear hub on the thrust flange side

Replace camshaft gear

9. Increased axial play of the crankshaft due to wear of the front thrust bearing washer due to the washer locking pins falling out of the front end of the block

Replace the front thrust bearing washers and press in new pins.

8.1 Typical malfunctions of engines with electronic fuel injection.

In addition to malfunctions of the engine itself, malfunctions in the engine control system also occur during operation. The electronic engine control unit (fuel supply and ignition) is capable, to a certain extent, of diagnosing elements of the engine control system. In this case, sensors installed on the engine are used to obtain information about the operation of the engine and the systems controlled by the unit.

To launch the self-diagnosis system (as well as to connect a special diagnostic tester ASKAN 10), there is a special 16-pin plug connector in the wiring harness of the engine control system.

When a malfunction is detected, the control unit turns on the diagnostic malfunction lamp (a yellow lamp on the vehicle’s instrument panel with an image of the engine circuit), and a code reflecting this malfunction is entered into its memory.

In operating mode, when the ignition is turned on and the engine is not running, the lamp flashes for 0.6 s and goes out if the self-diagnosis subsystem does not detect faults in the electrical circuits of the control system.

If the diagnostic lamp does not go out after turning on the ignition or lights up while the engine is running, this means that it is necessary to carry out maintenance system and engine as soon as possible..

Due to the fact that the MIKAS and AUTRON control systems are constantly being improved, the number of diagnosed faults will increase. It is also possible to make adjustments in the designation of the codes themselves. When determining malfunctions of engines 4216.10 on a specific vehicle, you must be guided by the accompanying this car"Operation Manual", which reflects all necessary changes.

At the same time, there are a number of characteristic malfunctions of engines with electronic injection fuels that can be determined regardless of the engine control system used (MIKAS or AUTRON). Such faults are shown in Table 6.

List of possible malfunctions of power supply and ignition control systems of injection engines

Table 6

Probable Cause

Elimination method

Diagnostic mode does not turn on

1. The self-diagnosis circuit is faulty

Restore the self-diagnosis circuit from the control unit to the diagnostic connector

Replace control unit

The diagnostic lamp is constantly on after the ignition is turned on.

1. Engine control system circuits are faulty

2. Elements of the engine control system are faulty

Replace the faulty control system element

3. Control unit is faulty

Replace control unit

The electric fuel pump does not work when the ignition is turned on

Troubleshoot control system harness

2. The electric fuel pump relay is faulty

Replace relay

3. The electric fuel pump is faulty

Replace the electric fuel pump

Replace control unit

The electric fuel pump does not turn on after turning on the ignition

1. The power supply and control circuits of the electric fuel pump are faulty

1. Restore the harness circuits

2. Control unit is faulty

Replace control unit

The engine does not run in crank mode

1. The power supply and starter control circuits are faulty

1. Troubleshoot electrical harness

2. Battery is discharged or faulty

Perform battery maintenance or replace it

3. Starter faulty

Replace starter

4. Throttle device is faulty

Repair the throttle device

The engine starts poorly and runs unsteadily.

From the exhaust pipe goes black smoke

1. The gap between the teeth of the crankshaft synchronization disk and the synchronization sensor has been increased

1. Check the gap “sync sensor core – sync tooth”, which should be within 0.5- 1.5 mm

2. Synchronization sensor is faulty

Replace sensor

A hot engine (coolant temperature above plus 70 o C) does not start

Conditions:

the electric fuel pump is working;

battery voltage is above 12V;

the engine operates in starter crank mode;

The self-diagnosis mode is activated.

1. No fuel pressure:

1.1. No fuel in tank

Fill the tank with fuel > 10 l

1.2. Air lock in the line

Clean the system

2. Fuel pressure below 4 kg/cm2:

2.1. Clogged fuel filler lines and fuel filters

Carry out maintenance

2.2. Intake air leak

Eliminate

2.3. Faulty fuel lines

Eliminate

2.4. Fuel pressure regulator malfunction

Replace pressure regulator

3. Fuel pressure above 4 kg/cm2:

3.1. Clogged fuel drain lines

Clean pipelines

3.2. The electric fuel pump is faulty

Replace the electric fuel pump

3.3. Fuel pressure regulator is faulty

Replace pressure regulator

4. The idle speed regulator is faulty or the regulator bypass channel is clogged

1. Restore the power supply and regulator control circuits

2. Replace the regulator

3. Clean the regulator bypass channel

5. Crankshaft position sensor is faulty

1. Restore the sensor circuit

2. Replace the sensor

6. The control circuits of the cylinder ignition coils are mixed up

Restore the connection of the coils according to the electrical diagram

7. Control unit is faulty

Replace control unit

Increased idle speed

1. Incomplete closing of the throttle valve

Adjust

2. The idle air control channel does not close

1. Check and restore the power supply and control circuits of the regulator

2. Replace the regulator

3. Replace the control unit

3. The calibration of the coolant temperature sensor is incorrect

Replace sensor

Interruptions or failure of one cylinder

1. Defective high voltage wire or wire end

Replace the wire or its tip

2. The interelectrode gap of the spark plug is broken

Adjust the gap 0.7- 0.8 mm

3. Carbon deposits on the spark plug electrodes

Clean electrodes from carbon deposits

4. Spark plug is faulty

Replace spark plug

5. Fuel injector power or control circuit is faulty

Restore the harness circuits

6. Fuel injector clogged

Clean the nozzle

7. Fuel injector is faulty

Replace the injector

8. Control unit is faulty

Replace control unit

Interruptions or failure of two engine cylinders

1. The power supply or ignition coil control circuits are faulty

Restore the harness circuits

2. Ignition coil is faulty

Replace ignition coil

3. The power circuits of two adjacent ignition coils are faulty

Restore the harness circuits

4. Control unit is faulty

Replace control unit

Engine runs rough at idle

1. Air leak in the intake system, crankcase ventilation system or vacuum brake booster

Eliminate air leaks

2. Water entering the fuel tank

Drain sediment from fuel tank and sediment filter

3. Rattling of position sensor contacts throttle valve

Replace sensor

The engine has a dip in the crankshaft speed

in overclocking mode

1. High-voltage ignition circuits are faulty

2. Rattling contacts of the throttle position sensor

Replace sensor

The engine does not develop full power

1. Incomplete opening of the throttle valve

Adjust the throttle valve drive, eliminate drive jamming

2. The throttle position sensor is not calibrated

Adjust or replace sensor if faulty

3. Clogged fine fuel filter

Replace filter element

4. Air filter dirty

Clean or replace the filter element

5. High voltage circuits are faulty

See fault "Interruptions or failure of one cylinder"

6. Absolute pressure sensor is faulty

Replace sensor

Increased CO emissions at an idling speed of 2400 min -1: CO more than 0.5%. Increased fuel consumption

1. Air leak in the intake system, crankcase ventilation system or vacuum brake booster

Eliminate air leaks

2. Leaking fuel injectors

Replace faulty injectors

3. Fuel pressure above 4 kg/cm2

See fault "Hot engine does not start", item 3

4. Fuel absolute pressure sensor is faulty

Replace sensor

5. Engine adjustment is incorrect

Perform engine adjustment at a service station

Increased CH emission (CH more than 800 ppm)

at a rotation speed of 2400 min -1 idling

High-voltage ignition circuits are faulty

See fault "Interruptions or failure of one cylinder"

The engine knocks at partial loads and full power

1. Unsatisfactory quality of gasoline (low octane number, presence of water in fuel, violation of the fractional composition)

1.1. Drain the sediment from the sediment filter and replace the fuel in the tanks

1.2. Enter octane-correction of ignition timing

2. Malfunction of the shielding shell

Restore the sensor circuit. Check with

Knock sensor wires

connecting the wire screen to ground

3. Knock sensor calibration is incorrect

Replace sensor

The first releases of the Gazelles, popular in our country, were not as durable as their modern modifications. This is not surprising. After all, at that time there was no alternative to the well-known 3M3-402 engine. It could not withstand the loads and kilometers that these cars had to overcome. Naturally, various types of breakdowns occurred. What “diseases” are characteristic of our “Gazelles” and how to “treat” them, we will consider in this article.

Minor "illnesses" of Gazelles

The 3M3-402 engine was famous for its reliability, especially when handled with care. But, despite its strength, it also misfired. In most cases, the cause of malfunctions was detonation. Why did this happen? Experienced mechanics know that due to the large cylinder diameter (92 mm), uneven combustion of an already poorly mixed mixture occurs in the engine. This leads to the appearance of detonation centers in the area of ​​​​the edges of the piston. It poses the greatest danger when used low revs under heavy load. But many Gazelle drivers operate their car engines in this way.

Engine malfunctions can also occur due to the use of low-quality fuel. To eliminate this problem, some use additives. They are added to the fuel used. Other drivers solve the problem by turning off the vacuum ignition advancer. Although such an exit can turn out disastrously: the exhaust valves can burn out.

Detonation can also be eliminated in this way. An additional gasket should be installed under the cylinder head. An engine derated in this way will, of course, be less powerful, but the Gazelle could be driven for approximately another 300 thousand kilometers. This method is also convenient because for detonation you need to disassemble the engine. This means that you can polish the piston heads at the same time. The fact is that to eliminate detonation it is necessary to minimize the combustion temperature. And removing carbon deposits from the walls of the combustion chambers is necessary to restore full heat exchange.

Another common problem with the first Gazelle models is frequent engine overheating. Moreover, the radiator in these cars is located below the engine. In this regard, during particularly hot heat in the summer season, the coolant begins to boil violently. In principle, this “illness” can be easily dealt with: this will require installing another radiator. In this case, after stopping the engine, the fan begins to function automatic mode and helps restore the “status quo” within 30-40 seconds.

One more " weak point In older Gazelles, a simple belt drive of the cooling fan is not always effective. Its ineffectiveness is especially acute when driving a loaded car on a long incline. In addition, there is a discrepancy between the levels of the generator pulleys and the pump and crankshaft. In this regard, belts are “not enough” for a long time, and they quickly wear out. The only way out in this situation is to regularly replace parts. They also require manual adjustment.

The Gazelles' lubrication system is no better. The first Gazelles models were not equipped with an oil cooler at all, despite its obvious necessity. In such a situation, the solution for drivers who care about their car was to regularly use synthetic oils high quality. Such additives are resistant to stress and do not deteriorate when the engine overheats. However, such an alternative to an oil radiator was not a budget option - it required considerable expenses. Moreover, she had reverse side- release of a significant amount of waste. From all of the above, it follows that the most acceptable option can be considered the operation of the Gazelle on a simple, but at the same time high-quality mineral water. And, of course, it should be replaced on time. But even the use of mineral water will not eliminate the need to install an oil cooler.

Transmission and chassis breakdowns

But Gazelles are subject to not only “children’s” breakdowns. Often, after a run of 60-70 thousand kilometers, the main gearbox pair needs to be replaced. And if the car has traveled at least 150 thousand kilometers, then the driver will most likely have to purchase new bearings for his car. Gazelle tires wear out after a run of 70 thousand kilometers. Along with it, the play in the front suspension pins will also need to be replaced in the Gazelle.

Cars of this brand have another significant drawback - the inconvenient location of the clutch master cylinder reservoir. If necessary, adding liquid directly from a bottle into such a container is almost impossible. The solution here may be to use a medical device with a flexible spout.

It should be noted that many Gazelle drivers noticed how master cylinder fell off on its own. The same thing was observed with the frame spar in the area of ​​the steering mechanism of the car. In general, it is better to avoid excess load on the steering wheel and use it only while driving. Or you can strengthen it with steel corners.

The Gazelle's muffler also wears out over time (about a couple of years after the vehicle starts operating) and becomes like a sieve. But at the same time, this spare part does not fall off the car.

External and internal defects of Gazelles

Perhaps there is nothing more dangerous for a car than the appearance and spread of rust on its “body”. As for Gazelles, corrosion affects these cars even in the area under the hood - after all, there is always both heat and dampness there. The right decision is to immediately begin anti-corrosion treatment after purchasing a car.

The exterior paintwork of the Gazelle body is also not reliable: under the influence of climatic precipitation, the inherent new car gloss gives way to a matte surface. For this reason, it is recommended to apply polishing compounds with a protective effect to the Gazelle at least once a season.

Perhaps any driver will agree that it is quite comfortable to be inside the cabin of this car. But not in winter time years: the interior is blowing. Streams of cold air penetrating into the cabin from the outside can be “liquidated” with simple tape by covering the ventilation deflectors on the dashboard with it.

Since the instrument panel is not fixed in the most reliable way, when the Gazelle moves on uneven roads, noticeable shaking occurs. It can be so strong that it is very difficult for the driver to accurately see the indicators of the car’s instruments.

Another “disease” of these machines is drying out and wear of the window lifter guide rollers. After all, they are made of plastic. Since replacing the entire mechanism whenever these parts deteriorate is quite expensive for the car owner, you can resort to the following trick: you can grind the rollers from duralumin. And then you can forget about this problem forever.

And yet “Gazelle” is ours, Russian car. It perfectly performs the functions of commercial transport. This means that, despite all the “diseases” that affect it from time to time, it still copes with its main role - it brings income and benefit to the owner. If we take into account that it costs several times less than the most affordable foreign truck, then we can consider it the optimal commercial vehicle for domestic entrepreneurs in the field of transportation.

Video: Rental of special equipment and cargo transportation services without intermediaries!

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.