Volkswagen Polo front suspension. Front suspension diagram Volkswagen Polo sedan Algorithm for changing stabilization lateral stability airbags

The front suspension is independent, MacPherson strut type, with telescopic shock absorber struts 4 (, coil springs, wishbones 7, anti-roll bar 8 torsion bar type.

The main elements of the front suspension are telescopic shock absorber struts 4, combining the functions of a telescopic element of the guide mechanism and a damping element for vertical vibrations of the wheel relative to the body.

The shock absorber struts contain twisted coil springs, compression buffers with protective covers and upper supports with thrust bearings. The load is transferred to the car body through the upper support. The shock absorber strut is connected to the suspension arm 7 through the steering knuckle 5 by a ball joint 6.

Front suspension Polo sedan: 1 - front suspension cross member; 2 - front hinge (silent block) of the lever; 3 - stabilizer bar; 4 - shock absorber strut; 5 - steering knuckle; 6 - ball joint; 7 - front suspension lever; 8 - anti-roll bar; 9 - rear hinge (silent block) of the lever

The anti-roll bar 8 is connected to the cross member of the front suspension of the car with two brackets through rubber pads, and with the shock absorber struts 4 - struts 3.

The front suspension arms 7 are attached to the cross member 1 through the front and rear hinges (silent blocks) 2 and 9. The front wheel hubs are mounted on non-adjustable double-row angular contact ball bearings.

You will need: a 21 key, a 7 hex key, and a mounting blade.

Carry out all checks and work from below the car, mounted on a lift or inspection ditch (with the front wheels hanging).

During each maintenance and repair, it is necessary to check the condition of the protective covers of the suspension ball joints. There should be no mechanical damage on the covers.

Find out if there are any cracks or traces of contact with road obstacles or the body on the suspension parts, deformation of the arms, stabilizer bar and its struts, body front parts in the places where the suspension units and parts are attached.

Check the condition of rubber-metal joints, rubber cushions, suspension joints, condition (settlement) upper supports suspension shock absorbers.

Rubber-metal hinges and rubber cushions must be replaced in case of ruptures and one-sided bulging of rubber, as well as when their end surfaces are trimmed.

The location of the front suspension elements on the car is shown in Fig. 7.1.

Suspensions on rubber parts are not allowed:

Signs of aging rubber;

Mechanical damage.

The following are not allowed on rubber-metal hinges:

Signs of aging, cracks, one-sided bulging of the rubber mass;

Separation of the rubber mass from the reinforcement. Replace faulty parts.

Special attention Look for mechanical damage (deformations, cracks, etc.) to suspension elements, especially levers.
1. Check the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints. If the covers are damaged, replace them ball joint.
2. Check the ball joints for play. To do this, insert a mounting blade between the steering knuckle and the suspension arm and, leaning on the lever, try to swing the steering knuckle. If there is play in the ball pin, replace the ball joint.

3. Using a mounting spatula, check the condition of the front A and rear B hinges of the front suspension arms. While resting the mounting blade against the cross member, try to swing the suspension arm. If there is play in the rear or front joint, replace

4. Check the condition of the covers of the upper and lower hinges of the anti-roll bar struts.
5. Check the stabilizer link joints for play.
6. While rocking the anti-roll bar with your hand, check the condition of the pads that attach it to the cross member. If there are knocking noises, replace the pillows.

7. Check the condition of the shock absorber strut protective boot.
8. Check the tightness of the shock absorber rod nut.

The suspension at the front of the car is independent and has a spring type with McPherson control arms and telescopic shock absorber struts. The equipment also includes cylinder-shaped springs, transverse arms, and a torsion-type transverse stabilizer.

The front suspension contains the following basic components:

• shock absorber struts are of a telescopic design, they act as a part indicating the direction of the node connection;
• a system that dampens vertical vibrations of the wheels in relation to the car body.

Cylinder-shaped coil springs are attached to the shock absorber struts, located nearby under the compression buffer protection covers and the top support with thrust ball bearings. The support at the top is a direct load transmitter to the machine body. In addition, the shock absorber strut is connected to the suspension arm via a steering knuckle.

Two brackets passing through rubber cushions act as a connector between the anti-roll bar and the transverse suspension rib at the front of the car.

The levers located on the front suspension are connected to the cross member using silent blocks in front and behind. The wheel hubs in front are mounted on angular contact ball bearings, which are not adjustable.

Factors of front suspension failure and methods to overcome them

During operation Volkswagen Polo There may be signs of suspension problems in front of the car. Let's consider the probable causes of their manifestation and methods of overcoming them.

The occurrence of extraneous noise or knocking when moving the machine

The connection between the car body and the brackets securing the stabilizer bar or the struts of this stabilizer and the lever located at the bottom of the suspension is not strong enough. To eliminate this, simply tighten loose thread connections securely.

Wear of stabilizer parts made of rubber and racks for it. Replacement of used elements is required.

Wear of the part of the shock absorber strut support at the top made of rubber. It is necessary to replace the shock absorber strut support located at the top.

Worn ball joint at the bottom or steering linkage joints. Replace used hinges.

The wheel ball bearings are worn out or the wheel mounting screw is loose. Replace the ball bearing, tighten the hub screw.

Breaking the suspension spring in front of the car. Replace the spring.

Damage to the shock absorber strut compression buffer. Change the compression buffer.

Wheel imbalance at the front of the car. Balance the wheels.

Loss of straightness when moving on a horizontal road surface

• Tire pressure varies. Adjust tire pressure to the manufacturer's recommended standard.
• The longitudinal inclination of the steering axis of the wheels in front is broken. In the Volkswagen Polo, the longitudinal inclination of the turning axis of the wheels at the front of the car is not designed. If such violations are detected, tighten all joints and fasteners. Replace used parts with new ones. If necessary, carry out renovation work on the car body.
• The camber angle on the wheels in front of the car is incorrect. The recommendations correspond to the previous paragraph.
• Uneven sagging of springs. Replace the deformed spring.
• Tire abrasion varies significantly. Change the used tire.
• The rigidity of the wheel tire bead is uneven. Move the tire to the opposite side of the car.

Excessive or uneven wheel tread wear

• The toe-in and mounting angles of the front wheels are not normal. Carry out toe adjustments and diagnose the factors that led to discrepancies in wheel angles.
• Excessive wear on ball bearings, steering rods and front suspension silent blocks. Replace damaged items.
• Presence of wheel imbalance. Perform balancing.
• Hull deformation or suspension joints are deformed. Carry out body repair work and replace faulty suspension elements.
• The shock absorber strut does not function properly. Change the shock absorber strut.

Diagnostics of suspension parts in front of the car

The operation of the suspension elements is checked from below the machine. Install Volkswagen Polo

on a special lift or above an inspection hole. The wheels in front should be suspended. To carry out the inspection, take a set of keys and a mounting blade.

When diagnosing the technical condition of the car, be sure to check the protective covers of the ball suspension supports. They cannot contain mechanically produced deformations.

Conduct a study to check for cracks or the consequences of touching obstacles on the road. The following may become deformed:

• car body;
• node connections;
• suspension elements.

Study the position of rubber-metal hinges, rubber pads, and suspension hinges carefully and in detail. Pay attention to the settling of the supports at the top of the suspension shock absorber struts. If ruptures in the rubber surface, bulging of rubber, or trimming of surfaces from the end are detected, urgent replacement of used parts is necessary.

Absolutely unacceptable:

• Rubber elements are indicators of rubber obsolescence and the presence of acquired defects.
• Rubber-metal hinges - indicators of rubber obsolescence, cracks, protrusion of the rubber mass, tearing of the rubber mass from the metal base.

Elements that fail must be replaced immediately.

Diagnostic algorithm

Examine the appearance of play in the ball bearings. Place a mounting shovel in the space between the steering knuckle and the suspension arm, lean on the lever, and try to swing the steering knuckle. Have you discovered a significant gap? Replace the ball joint.

Using a spudger, examine the hinge arms located at the front and rear. Having placed the emphasis on the cross member, swing the suspension arm. The manifested play in the hinges in front and behind indicates the need for an urgent change of silent blocks.

Inspect the hinge boots at the top and bottom of the stabilizer bar.

Examine the hinges of the stabilization struts for the appearance of gaps.

Manually swing the stabilization bar and examine in detail the cushions attached to the cross bar. If knocking noises are detected, the airbags need to be replaced immediately.

Examine the surface of the shock absorber strut boot.

Check the tension of the shock absorber rod mounting screw.

We remove and dismantle the suspension shock absorber strut in front of Volkswagen Polo

To replace the shock absorber strut, take the necessary set of tools: a set of keys, a hex key “No5”, pliers, a mounting shovel.

Algorithm for performing the work:

• Secure the Volkswagen Polo with the handbrake and place supports against rolling under the wheels at the rear of the car.
• While the car is at the bottom, loosen the wheel mounting screws and wheel hub nuts.

Now lift the car from the front, position and securely lock the stops, unscrew the hub screw, unfasten the screws securing the wheel, and dismantle the wheel itself.

• Also secure the hood cover with the stop in the raised position.

Remove the glass wiper arms and the grille part of the air supply box.

Using appropriately sized wrenches, carefully turn the stabilizer link pin mounting screw and pull the pin out of the shock absorber strut bracket.

Disconnect the hoses brake system from the retaining grooves of the shock absorber strut. To do this, use pliers to unfasten the spring-type clamp. The brake tube extends freely from the strut retaining element.

Pull out the bushing supplying the wheel speed sensor from the retaining element on the shock absorber strut.

Unfasten the block with the wiring of the wheel speed sensor.

Unscrew the mounting screws for the ball joint and suspension arm at the front of the car and pull them out of the holes.

Pull the tail part of the hinge from the outside hub hole wheels in front. Attach the wheel drive to the car body. Do not allow the hinge located inside to be bent.

• Fix the ball joint mounting screws in the holes of the suspension arm and attach the fasteners. There is no need to tighten them completely.

Without allowing the head of the tightening screw to turn, unscrew the fastening screw of the steering knuckle and shock absorber strut. Pull out the fastening screw.

Remove the screw cap from the top of the shock absorber strut.

While holding the shock-absorbing rod from turning, unscrew the fastening screw of the shock-absorber strut and remove the stop.

Unclench the steering knuckle connection terminal with a mounting shovel and pull out the strut.

• Install the shock absorber strut in reverse order according to this algorithm.

• shock absorber strut mounting screw at top;
• fasteners (bolt and nut) for the shock absorber strut and suspension steering knuckle in front of the car;
• front ball joint and suspension arm mounting screws;
• anti-roll bar mounting screws;
• wheel hub screw in front of the car.

Repair of front suspension shock absorber strut of Volkswagen Polo

Often, repairing a strut shock absorber with your own hands does not give the desired result. We will deal with changing the shock absorber, suspension springs, support and strut support bearing. You can change them yourself.

Algorithm for performing the work:

Remove the shock absorber strut.

To compress the spring, insert a special puller and press the spring.

Hold the shock absorber rod (it cannot be turned) and unscrew the bolt of the shock absorber strut rod.

Remove the shock absorber strut support, the support bearing from the rod and the support bowl at the top.

Remove the spring from the shock absorber rod, the protective cover, and the clamping buffer.

• Carefully examine the dismantled elements for cracks and tears. If necessary, replace used elements.
• Inspect the shock absorber carefully. If surface cracking, body deformation, or leaks are detected oily liquid, replace the used element.

An inspection of the shock absorber strut is also necessary. Place it in a vertical position and lower and raise the shock absorber rod several times. Movements should be smooth and there should be no jamming or extraneous noise. If problems are found, the shock absorber strut needs to be replaced.

The spring must be replaced if there is cracking or deformation of the rotation.

• Carry out installation work in accordance with the reverse order of this algorithm.

Replacing the ball suspension support on the front of a Volkswagen Polo

In situations where changing the ball bearing is beyond doubt, its replacement can be performed in accordance with the presented algorithm. In this case, the algorithm will show the replacement of the ball wheel support on the left, and on the right the replacement is performed in the same way.

Algorithm for performing the work:

Replace all removed mounting screws with new elements.

Lower the car and rock it several times.

Tighten all connecting threads on the Volkswagen Polo while the car is standing on the ground.

Removing and installing the suspension arm in front of a Volkswagen Polo

If, after diagnosing the silent blocks at the front and rear of the car, reasons for replacing the elements with new ones are found, then dismantle the front suspension arm and replace the silent blocks.

Algorithm for performing the work:

• A special device installed in the spring assembly itself will help compress the spring.

Unscrew the mounting screws of the ball and suspension arm support at the front of the car and remove the support screws from the holes.

• Unscrew the silent block mounting screw from the front and pull it out of the hole.

Holding the nut (to prevent it from turning), unscrew the silent block mounting screw from the back and remove the fastener from the hole.

Remove the control arm bushing at the front of the suspension from the cross member bracket.

Remove the silent block of the lever at the rear of the suspension from the transverse beam bracket and dismantle the Volkswagen Polo lever.

Install the hub connection of the suspension arm at the front of the car in the reverse order of this algorithm.

• Have the wheel mounting angles checked and adjusted in a specialized workshop.

Replacement of anti-roll bar elements of the front suspension of Volkswagen Polo

Algorithm for performing the work:

• Secure the car hand brake and place anti-roll stops under the wheels behind the car.
• Raise the Volkswagen Polo from the front and support it with supports. Remove the wheel.
• Remove the mounting screw of the hinge pin at the top of the stabilizer strut and shock absorber strut bracket.
• Remove the pin from the shock absorber strut bracket.
• By analogy, carry out dismantling work on the fastening element below.
• Remove the mounting screw and pull the hinge pin from the bottom out of the cross member stabilizer hole. Remove the rack.
• Install the rack in the reverse order of this algorithm.

Algorithm for changing stabilization roll cushions

• Secure the car with the handbrake and place anti-roll stops under the wheels behind the car.
• Raise the Volkswagen Polo from the front and support it with supports. Remove the wheel.
• Remove the engine compartment splash guard.
• While holding the hinge pin at the bottom of the anti-roll bar from turning, unscrew and remove the screw at the hinge pin at the bottom of the strut. In the same way, unfasten the strut and anti-roll bar on the opposite side.
• Turn the stabilizer up.
• Unscrew the mounting screws of the steering system and cross member of the suspension and attach the assembly to the car body.
• Remove the rear engine mount bracket.
• Unscrew the mounting screws of the ball bearings and suspension arms.
• Place a jack under the front cross member of the suspension. Unscrew the fastening screws of the transverse beam and the car body. Lower the cross member down (as far as possible).
• Unscrew the mounting screws of the stabilizer and cross member of the suspension. Remove the stabilizer.
• Release the stabilization pads from the mounting brackets.
• Rotate and carefully release the stabilization pad. Remove it from the stabilizer. Remove the second pillow in the same way.
• Check the cushions for deformation. Replace used elements with new ones.
• Install the stabilizer in the reverse order of this algorithm.

Algorithm for dismantling and installation work of the steering knuckle of the Volkswagen Polo suspension

To do the job you need the following tools:

• kit for dismantling the caliper and disc of the brake system of the front wheel of the car;
• set of keys and socket heads;
• pliers;
• special puller for ball joints;
• assembly spatula.

Work progress:

• Secure the car with the handbrake and place anti-roll stops under the rear wheels.
• While the car is standing below, remove the tension on the screw connections of the wheels and the hub nut.
• Raise the car from the front and install supports, unscrew the wheel hub screw, mounting screws and remove the wheel.
• Disconnect and pull out the wheel speed lock sensor from the steering knuckle.
• Remove the wheel brake caliper from the front of the car (there is no need to disconnect the brake hose) and secure it to the side. Can be attached to spring coils. Watch the tension of the hose; it should not bend.
• Remove the brake disc.
• Unfasten the steering linkage from the steering lever.
• Without allowing any twisting, unscrew the mounting screw of the steering knuckle and shock absorber strut. Pull out the screw.
• Remove the joint end from the outside of the wheel hub hole at the front. Attach the wheel drive to the body. There should be no bending of the hinge inside.
• Pull the strut out of the steering knuckle joint using a spatula. Remove the steering knuckle complete with the hub and shield element of the brake system assembly.
• Install the elements in the reverse order to this.
• Check the wheel alignment angles and, if necessary, adjust them in a specialized workshop.

Replacing the wheel ball bearing on the front wheel of a Volkswagen Polo

The hub is equipped with an internal ball bearing, which is designed for long service life. During its operation, additional adjustment and lubrication are not needed. And yet there are factors that influence the reduction in the life of an element. This is an overload of the car's systems during prolonged movement at high speed, or driving on poor-quality road surfaces. To perform the replacement, a special puller or mandrel of the appropriate size is required. It is not advisable to carry out installation with a hammer. There is a high possibility of damage and distortion during installation. Therefore, it is necessary to use a special tool.

Work progress:

• Remove the steering knuckle complete with the hub.
• Using a puller, press the hub out of the ball bearing.
• Pull the ball bearing retaining ring out of the steering knuckle.
• Using a mandrel, press the race outside the ball bearing out of the knuckle.
• Thoroughly clean the elements, lubricate the inner coating of the knuckle and the outside of the hub with grease.
• Install the elements in the reverse order to this.
• Replace the ball bearing on the other side of the machine in a similar manner.

Dismantling the cross beam of the front suspension of Volkswagen Polo

Work progress:

• Raise the car with a lift or raise part of the car from the front above the inspection pit.
• Remove the engine splash guard.
• Unscrew and remove the mounting screw of the strut from the bottom, pull the hinge pin out of the stabilizer hole. Extend your finger on the opposite side in the same way.
• Remove the mounting screws of the suspension support bracket behind the engine and gearbox housing.
• Unscrew the fasteners of the steering system and the front cross member. Attach the steering mechanism to the body.
• Remove the auxiliary muffler.
• Secure supports under the front cross member.
• Unscrew the suspension cross member fasteners from the front of the vehicle and the body. Do this on both sides.
• Carefully move the cross beam forward in the direction of travel and remove it completely, lowering it slightly.
• Install the cross beam and the elements of the nodal connections in the reverse order to this.

Before installation work change the fastening screws of the connections:

• in front and behind the transverse beam of the suspension in front of the vehicle;
• ball bearings and suspension arms;
• steering mechanism and cross beam.

— Why do criminal groups often have no drummers?
- Because in their world it is difficult to find a person who agrees to sit and knock!
Conversation at the music school

Knocking in the suspension can be different. There can be a great many reasons for its occurrence, so we ask Volkswagen car owners in advance not to be offended by us when we do not diagnose over the phone, but offer to come to us and find the fault on the spot. This Volkswagen Polo Sedan I contacted him because there was a strange, noticeable knocking noise from the front.

Given:

• Car: Volkswagen Polo Sedan
• Year of manufacture: 2011
• Model year: 2012
• Engine: CFNA (1.6 l., 1598 cc, 105 hp)
• ICE features: 16-valve, multi-point injection MPI
• Gearbox: MFZ
• Quattro differential: No
• Preselective robotic gearbox DSG: No
• Mileage: 41,000 kilometers

Required:

• Find and eliminate knocking in the suspension

We will figure out what is knocking and where. First, we drive the Polo Sedan into the repair area of ​​your V×M service.

As usual, first comes the incoming inspection, which consists of computer and instrumental diagnostics.

Errors at work electronic systems no, the car is in excellent condition, so we put it on a lift and start looking for what’s wrong with chassis. We know several dozen childhood diseases of this car, so the fault was found in three and a half minutes.

The nature and location of the knock indicated damage to the support elements front shock absorber.

From the outside, everything looked decent, but when we managed to manually reproduce this particular knock, there was no longer any doubt. We disassemble the rack support.

The support bearing simply fell apart in our hands! Also on this side we noticed severe deformation of the damping element of the strut support. This led to the disintegration of the bearing. Where does the knock come from then, you ask? Very simple!

Very often, the knock of the shock absorber is confused with the knock of the supports, not only by drivers, but also by experienced car mechanics. We can’t speak for other brands, but in VAG it’s impossible to confuse these two sounds. The stand and its support knock very differently. Usually it is the support that starts knocking first. Let's take a look at the elements that make up the Rack Support assembly.

On the left, the support (OEM) lies separately, on the right, the support bearing (OEM) is inserted into the support. We see that the very support on Volkswagen car The Polo Sedan is a rather impressive rubber part with a complex shape. This is necessary in order to dampen vibrations coming from the wheel (through the shock absorber rod) to the car body. The shock absorber is designed so that its operation is inertial. Try pressing the shock absorber rod in different ways and you will understand what we mean. First, try to do it sharply and quickly. For example, with a hammer. It's unlikely that this will work. The shock absorber will spring back. After that, try to do it slowly. The shock absorber will give in and the rod will begin to move inward.

The same thing happens on the road. The shock absorber, due to its structure, does not absorb sudden and short movements. This makes him a prop! Contrary to popular belief, the main purpose of a shock absorber is to maintain constant contact between the wheel and the road. Vibration damping is side effect. That is, the main purpose of the shock absorber is to preserve not comfort, but life! But for comfort, the very support that is often underestimated serves.

Over time, the support material ages and loses its damping properties. The shocks are absorbed worse, they begin to be transmitted to the car body, and we begin to hear a knock.

We replaced the strut supports (of course, in pairs, since this is a paired part, and we do not allow ourselves to deviate from technology) with bearings and nuts (OEM), after which the knocking stopped. After replacing the supports, it is necessary to adjust the wheel alignment! The collapse was also done.

Time costs: 3 hours. Price 9700 rubles.

VW Polo Sedan (2010+). The smell of antifreeze in the cabin

Leak from expansion tank

As a rule, the cabin smells of coolant if it leaks from the expansion tank. In most cases, this malfunction is caused by long-term operation. vehicle or violation of the technical condition of the car. But, no matter how surprising it may be, antifreeze leaks often occur on modern cars. The main reason for antifreeze leakage is wear of system components or manufacturing defects. Also, working fluid may leak if pipes or other components of the cooling system are incorrectly replaced. Since the coolant tends to erode, the car owner may not notice a slight leak of the mixture. In this case, a malfunction of the car’s cooling system will be indicated by a foreign smell in the cabin. Visually, it is easier for the vehicle owner to detect a significant leak. In this case, the liquid leaves noticeable stains on the system components. If antifreeze or antifreeze quickly leaves the expansion tank, this can be determined by the readings of the corresponding analyzers or when characteristic leaks appear. When the fluid leaves the system to a small extent, you can feel a sweetish smell in the vehicle interior. In this case, it is necessary to promptly begin diagnosing the vehicle’s cooling system.

The heater or radiator is leaking

Often the reason is that the stove or its radiator is leaking. Since it has a complex design, it is recommended to replace it with a new one rather than make repairs. Leakage can also occur due to loose connections between the pipes.
If it is not possible to change the heater radiator, then you can continue driving as is, but you should check the fluid level in the cooling system more often.

Diagnostics
First of all, it is necessary to carry out a visual diagnosis of the cooling system. During diagnostics, it is necessary to carefully check all conductors of the system for mechanical damage or leaks. If damaged conductors were found during the inspection, it is necessary to restore the tightness of the cooling system by replacing them.

Also, one of the most common malfunctions of the cooling system is coolant leakage into the engine crankcase. This malfunction can lead to quite serious consequences and significantly disrupt the function of the engine. This malfunction can be identified by visually inspecting the oil tank cap. If coolant enters the crankcase, a white emulsion appears on the cover. If coolant leaks out, you may notice a formation under the car.

If the inside of the car smells like antifreeze, then coolant leaks directly into the interior. The smell of antifreeze in the cabin indicates a leak in the heater core. If the radiator leaks, some of the coolant leaks directly into the passenger compartment and the driver of the vehicle may notice a characteristic sweet smell.
Also, coolant can get under the gas distribution mechanism drive. In this case, it is quite difficult to visually determine the leak, but by diagnosing the space under timing belt characteristic traces of moisture can be seen. As a rule, the cause of moisture formation under the timing belt is a faulty pump.

As is known, the totality of maintenance temperature regime plays an important role in the correct and long-term functioning of the engine. If the cooling system malfunctions, the engine is subject to overheating and premature wear of the components. During vehicle operation, the cooling system operates in difficult conditions. The system components are constantly exposed to high pressure and temperature changes. In this regard, the elements of the cooling system are subject to increased wear and require timely diagnostics and regular maintenance.

The smell of antifreeze in the cabin indicates a malfunction of the connecting hoses of the systems and the need for diagnostics. With prolonged use of the vehicle, the rubber components of the system wear out and often become unusable. If the diagnostics showed extremely permissible wear conductors of the system, they must be replaced without fail. To secure the cooling system hoses, it is best to use special metal clamps, which are characterized for a long time operation, reliability and do not allow leakage of the working mixture. In addition, it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the radiator and, if necessary, restore its tightness or replace it.
If there is a coolant leak, the car engine is subject to increased wear. In this regard, if you do not pay attention to the condition of the cooling system in a timely manner, you can end up with a large number of engine repair costs. Timely diagnostics and regular maintenance of the cooling part will allow you to remain confident in the reliability of the engine and increase the service life of its elements.

The front suspension is independent, MacPherson-type lever-spring, with telescopic shock absorber struts 4 (, coil springs, wishbones 7, torsion-type anti-roll bar 8. The main elements of the front suspension are telescopic shock absorber struts 4, combining the functions of a telescopic element of the guide mechanism and a damping element of vertical vibrations of the wheel relative to the body.

The shock absorber struts contain coil springs, compression buffers with protective covers, and upper supports with thrust bearings. The load is transferred to the car body through the upper support. The shock absorber strut is connected to the suspension arm 7 through the steering knuckle 5 by a ball joint 6.

Front suspension Polo sedan: 1 - front suspension cross member; 2 - front hinge (silent block) of the lever; 3 - stabilizer bar; 4 - shock absorber strut; 5 - steering knuckle; 6 - ball joint; 7 - front suspension lever; 8 - anti-roll bar; 9 - rear hinge (silent block) of the lever

The anti-roll bar 8 is connected to the cross member of the front suspension of the car with two brackets through rubber pads, and with the shock absorber struts 4 - struts 3.

The front suspension arms 7 are attached to the cross member 1 through the front and rear hinges (silent blocks) 2 and 9. The front wheel hubs are mounted on non-adjustable double-row angular contact ball bearings.

Checking the suspension of Polo sedan

You will need: a 21 key, a 7 hex key, and a mounting blade. Carry out all checks and work from below the car, mounted on a lift or inspection ditch (with the front wheels hanging). During each maintenance and repair, it is necessary to check the condition of the protective covers of the suspension ball joints. There should be no mechanical damage on the covers. Find out if there are any cracks or traces of contact with road obstacles or the body on the suspension parts, deformation of the arms, stabilizer bar and its struts, body front parts in the places where the suspension units and parts are attached. Check the condition of the rubber-metal hinges, rubber cushions, suspension joints, and the condition (settlement) of the upper supports of the shock absorber struts. Rubber-metal hinges and rubber cushions must be replaced in case of ruptures and one-sided bulging of rubber, as well as when their end surfaces are trimmed. The location of the front suspension elements on the car is shown in Fig. 7.1. The following are not allowed on rubber suspension parts: - signs of rubber aging; - mechanical damage. The following are not allowed on rubber-metal hinges: - signs of aging, cracks, one-sided bulging of the rubber mass; - separation of the rubber mass from the reinforcement. Replace faulty parts. Pay special attention to mechanical damage (deformations, cracks, etc.) to suspension elements, especially levers. 1. Check the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints. If the boots are damaged, replace the ball joint.

2. Check the ball joints for play. To do this, insert a mounting blade between the steering knuckle and the suspension arm and, leaning on the lever, try to swing the steering knuckle. If there is play in the ball pin, replace the ball joint.

3. Using a mounting spatula, check the condition of the front A and rear B hinges of the front suspension arms. While resting the mounting blade against the cross member, try to swing the suspension arm. If there is play in the rear or front joint, replace 4. Check the condition of the boots on the upper and lower stabilizer bar joints. 5. Check the stabilizer link joints for play.

6. While rocking the anti-roll bar with your hand, check the condition of the pads that attach it to the cross member. If there are knocking noises, replace the pillows.

7. Check the condition of the shock absorber strut protective boot.

8. Check the tightness of the shock absorber rod nut.

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Suspension device Volkswagen Polo sedan

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For 40 years now, masters from Wolfsburg have been delighting fans of the famous German series with his sophisticated and extraordinary work in the field of automotive engineering. One of the masterpieces of German fantasy is undoubtedly the Volkswagen Polo, which has earned countless awards over several generations.

Special attention should be paid to the sedan model. This example of the highest art was created especially for our Russian roads. The Germans took into account everything - from climatic operating conditions to the condition of the road surface and the quality of fuel resources.

A huge and meticulous work was done by representatives of the German automaker to develop the suspension system for the Polo. It was necessary to create a high-quality unit capable of withstanding extreme road (or more precisely, “off-road”) conditions in Russia. In 2010, hardworking Germans presented the Russians with a new miracle - the Volkswagen Polo sedan, which instantly, starting in the fall, sold out like “hot cakes” to car enthusiasts. The updated suspension played an important role in the rise in sales.

General look at the device

The era of classic double wishbone suspensions is coming to an end. To follow fashion, manufacturers equip their “brainchildren” with new independent installations, called MacPherson. It comes from the name of the famous American engineer from the Ford company.

This is exactly the kind of suspension that the craftsmen from Wolfsburg equipped the Volkswagen Polo sedan on the front. Its design is simple: the same “swinging spark plug” principle on which the shock absorber strut, one wishbone and a spring located above the axis operate steering knuckle. All elements that soften the suspension and perform a guiding function are assembled together, forming a compact monolith. This absolutely simple design made it possible to significantly reduce the weight of the unit compared to a “double-lever” and, accordingly, reduce the cost of materials. Therefore, MacPherson today is installed on almost all modern cars - be it compact middle-class models or expensive SUVs.

The Germans also did their best with the rear cross member. Having carefully studied our roads, they developed a completely new semi-independent suspension based on the fourth Golfik. And this is no longer “whatever.” The sedan's track has increased by approximately 34 mm, the strength and endurance of the installation components has increased, as well as its load capacity and control quality. In general, the experiment was a success.

Specifics

The assembly is simple, but good and solid. The struts extended almost the entire length of the shock absorber. The stabilizer is strong and is by no means based on an honest word - the Germans do not know how to “freeload”. However... The lower control arms are not impressive. Although they are thick, about 3 mm, they do not look very reliable. If the car falls into a deep hole, the “pieces of iron” will bend. The silent blocks are also not too large and it is unknown how many kilometers they can withstand.

Behavior varies depending on the transmission. On automatic transmissions, the MacPherson makes a lot of noise and there is a slight rumble underfoot. Especially extraneous knocks heard when driving over small bumps and joints. On the “mechanics” everything is much better. Of course, if you listen closely, you can still hear the uneven operation of the unit, but basically the suspension maneuvers are clear, without interruptions.

The location of the independent setup is not very inspiring for off-road driving - the lip of the lower support is quite low. But the sedan was not created to race through forests and fields. The Volkswagen Polo sedan is a purely urban showpiece.

The supports, by the way, are not synchronous and have minor differences in design. An incomprehensible plastic “appendage” under the Polo’s wings catches the eye. The distance to the road is about 15 cm. Probably protects the components from clogging and small stones.

The Polo sedan has a standard ground clearance of 170 mm. It will be quite suitable for Russian roads. A few words about the brakes. Conventional ventilated disc devices are installed in front, rear end equipped with drums. Drum brakes large, practical, also produced taking into account the conditions of Russian roads. The bolts that hold the wheels have special attachments that prevent the formation of deposits on the fasteners. To remove the bolts, there is the necessary tool in the trunk.

The result is the following: MacPherson front suspension is a trending innovation for all modern cars. High quality, light and inexpensive. The disadvantage lies in the design of the unit: due to the large range of roll created during sharp turns, problems with the car’s handling may occur. Adding fuel to the fire is the visual unreliability of some elements, which can confuse the consumer before purchasing.

The rear beam is also an evolutionary discovery in the automotive industry, which made it possible to reduce the cost of suspension materials. Installation of the suspension is simple and easy to repair. The disadvantage of the rear part is that the design worsens the overall sound insulation of the sedan.

In general, the Germans have created a standard device designed for the Russian climate, mounted on most models coming off the industrial assembly line.

Front suspension - logbook of the 2013 Volkswagen Polo Sedan Air on DRIVE2

I ordered bilstein b4 front struts, strut mounts, support bearings, stabilizer links, bilstein b4 rear shock absorbers, rear bump stops from Exist today. From this entire list, everything on the front suspension was available, and that’s what the entry will be about. The installation process is in the photo. I can say from the sensations that it has become very comfortable, right now it doesn’t break through the struts, the face doesn’t jump, in general the suspension works as it should, it’s moderately stiff. The only negative is that the muzzle has risen by 1-1.3 cm, which is not good for me, well, I hope that over time it will return to its previous position. Rear shock absorbers and bump stops will arrive in two days, next. There will be a post about it, and I’ll tell you what the overall feeling will be.

www.drive2.ru

Front suspension - logbook of the 2013 Volkswagen Polo Sedan on DRIVE2

And so I’ll start with the fact that I’ve driven 68 thousand, and I started to notice that knocking noises are coming from somewhere. I drive into the pit and pull and knock everything I can, basically everything is ideal, as some people say, and OD is also under this dances the pipe.

While driving and on the Polo Sedan forum there are a lot of words about our suspension, but it is not soft, but not hard either - average. Somewhere around 30-35 thousand I discovered a play in the rack, but did not repair it, as I think new car but the rack was screwed, and then the day came when I overhauled it, i.e. replaced the bushing with a fluoroplastic one.

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Our Chineseness

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Pressed in the bushing.

I won’t write about the replacement; there is plenty of information on the network about the replacement; the only thing I will say is that there is nothing supernatural.

Also, during the repair, it was discovered that the salen blocks were cracked, and the knock that really bothered me in the winter was the knock of the front shock absorber supports. It was decided to replace the salen blocks and supports even before the pile.

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Salenblocks front and rear

Replacing the salen blocks is also not difficult, I ground out the pieces of iron and used them to replace them without any hassle.

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Pressing process.

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Cracked salenblocks, there are tears.

A few words about the left lever; I had to jack up the automatic transmission to remove the bolt from the front clutch.

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This is the automatic transmission cushion, it was changed under warranty.

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Let's jack up the automatic transmission.

Salenty replaced all the levers in their rightful place, and then it was the turn of the supports, no such luck, I got the hang of these supports, broke all the hexagons that were there, the hexagons are not simple, but 7. I unscrewed them on the machine itself I couldn’t do that, I had to remove the racks, I also suffered a bit, but all the same, both supports were replaced.

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Comparison of new and old support.

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The bearing was filled with grease.

I also changed the stub struts; by the way, I broke one when I was screwing it on. I had to buy more.

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The stub racks, the old ones still seem to be alive, but have been completely replaced.

After all the procedures, I made a descent; nothing else is regulated on our car, because... the manufacturer took all this into account in the design of the suspension, according to the indicators everything turned out to be within the tolerances. Now I’ll say what happened, but it turned out very well, all the knocks (blips) remained in the garage, the suspension is now as it was before, there’s no knocking on anything or anywhere , and does not rattle, the only shock absorbers are on a solid 3, but they are working for now. I’ve been riding for a week now and I’ll say that it’s not in vain that I lived in the garage for 2 days.

ALL THE GOOD AND BOBLA!

Price: 100,500₽ Mileage: 68,976 km