There is no spark at the ignition coil. Why is there no spark at the spark plugs? The candle does not produce a spark

If you were unable to start your car and after checking the spark on the spark plug, it turned out that there was simply no spark, then you should check the entire ignition system of the VAZ 2106 and find a malfunction of a specific element.

In personal practice, I had several cases that were accompanied by a loss of spark, and below I will cite them and talk about each in more detail.

Again, I’ll make a reservation that this is not full list all the problems that can cause it, but I will try to give most of them. For experienced owners, you can supplement your thoughts by

One of the spark plugs is faulty

Failure of high-voltage spark plug wires or the central wire of the ignition coil

If there is no spark on any one cylinder, then try swapping the high-voltage wires. If after this the operation of the previous cylinder was restored, but the other cylinder, on the contrary, stopped working, this indicates a failure of the spark plug wire.

If a spark does not reach any of the VAZ 2106 spark plugs, then you should check the integrity and functionality of the central wire, in a similar way as in the last paragraph. Also, you should just try to stick the wire harder into the coil and the distributor cover, maybe the wire has just jumped out a little in one of these places and there is no necessary contact.

The contacts in the distributor are burnt or completely out of order

Open the distributor cover and carefully inspect the contacts. They could burn out and cause the spark to disappear. Also, check them for integrity. And one more important point: with the distributor cover open, turn the starter and see if the contacts open? If not, you need to adjust the gap between the contacts. If you are convinced that everything is fine at this stage, then you should pay attention to the next element.

Malfunction of the ignition coil of VAZ 2106

If there is no spark even at the contacts, then there is a high probability that it is the ignition coil that has burned out. You can check it either with an ohmmeter, measuring the resistance, or by installing a new one and see if that fixes the problem!

Failure of the switch or hall sensor

This item applies to owners. If there is no spark, then these two elements can cause this disaster. It is necessary to diagnose the malfunction of these parts and replace them with new ones if necessary.

If you have a BSC installed on your VAZ 2106, then you can carry a hall sensor with you in reserve, which is the most common cause of a malfunction. Or, as a last resort, do as I did, carefully fold the old contact ignition kit and let it lie in the trunk. It doesn’t take up much space, but somewhere on the road it can really help you out if one of the BSZ elements burns out!

If any of the owners have encountered other reasons for the disappearance of the spark, then please share in the comments, I think that for many owners this information will be very useful!

Reason for failure to start gasoline engine There may be no ignition spark. To know how to identify a malfunction in the VAZ 2109 ignition system (carburetor) and restore its functionality, take just a couple of minutes.

How to determine that there is no spark on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor)

If an attempt to start the engine fails, you may suspect an ignition problem. Do not try to start the engine more than 3 times worth it, because the battery will be discharged, and the malfunction will not go away on its own. We need to start looking for the reason for this state of affairs. Search possible malfunction done with an assistant who could right moment turn on the ignition switch. A simple household multimeter will be useful for this work.

The first step is to check the performance of the coil, since it produces a high-voltage discharge. The simplest test is as follows:

1. take out high voltage wire from the distributor cover;
2. wearing gloves (to prevent electric shock) or taking the wire with pliers with insulated handles, bring its contact to the ground at a distance of about 1 cm;
3. the assistant turns on the ignition (starter);
4. A large blue spark should appear.

If there is an electrical discharge, the search for the cause is directed towards the distributor and spark plugs; if not, the coil, switch, Hall sensor, and ignition switch are checked. Let's consider how to independently check the serviceability of the listed devices.

Coil

Before checking the coil, it is worth checking the integrity of the central high-voltage wire, since its malfunction can also be the cause of the lack of a spark. To do this, the tester switch is set to the 20 kOhm position, and its probes are connected to the opposite contacts of the armor wire. If the multimeter shows values ​​between 3.5 and 9 kOhm, the high voltage wire is OK. For other values, the wire is replaced with a serviceable one.

The ignition coil is the most capricious circuit element for diagnostics.

If the armored wire is working properly, the coil is tested. We check the integrity of the primary winding. The multimeter probes are connected to the “B” and “K” terminals of the coil. The switch is in the 20 Ohm position. Normal for a device installed on the “nine”, the resistance will be in the range of 0.4–0.5 Ohms.

To check the resistance of the secondary winding, connect the probes to terminal “B” and the high-voltage output. Tester switch in position 20 kOhm. The normal resistance value is within 4–5 kOhm. If the resistance readings are very different from normal, the coil is replaced with a new (good) one.

Switch

If the coil showed normal resistance figures, it is not the reason for the disappearance of the spark. Next along the chain is a switch. The tester will not be able to “ring” it. Functionality check electronic device is carried out by test replacing it with a known good one. If the “live” switch has not changed the situation, you need to move further along the chain.

Hall sensor

This device is treated in the same way as a switch (replaced with a functional one). The difference is that the Hall sensor is more difficult to reach. To do this, you need to disassemble the distributor.

Ignition switch

If the coil, commutator and Hall sensor are working properly (do not forget to check the integrity of the contacts between these devices), but the spark does not appear, the reason may lie in the ignition switch. When the lock is turned on, power is supplied to the coil. It is checked like this:

• the tester switches to 20 volts;

• one multimeter probe to terminal “B”, the other to ground;

• When the battery is charged, the device will show 12 V.

You can use a control light. When its wires are connected to the mentioned contacts, the lamp will light up. If the lamp does not light or the tester does not “detect” voltage, you should look for the cause of the missing spark in an open circuit (fuse, wire).

Rarely, there are situations when when you turn the key in the lock to the first position, voltage flows to the coil, but disappears in the second position (engine start). To eliminate this option, terminal “B” of the coil is connected to the battery positive directly. If there is a spark in this situation, there is a problem with the lock. It is better to replace it or have it repaired by an experienced auto mechanic. If you have the skills to work with this mechanism, we can offer information.

Now let's consider what causes the disappearance of the spark in the direction of the circuit other than the coil.

Distributor

A distributor malfunction is suspected if there is a full spark on the central armored wire, but there is none on any of the spark plugs. The reason is that the contacts on the distributor or slider cover burn out. To determine problems, an inspection after removing the cover is sufficient (the contacts are oxidized or covered with black soot). The malfunction is eliminated by cleaning the contacts. If the integrity of the distributor cap is damaged, it should be replaced.

Remember that the distributor cover, armored wire, and spark plugs should be kept as clean as possible. Oil stains, dirt, and moisture significantly impair the quality of the spark.

High-voltage wires (VV, armored wires)

If you conduct a full test of the ignition system, you cannot do without checking the armored wires connecting the distributor cover and the spark plugs. They are “ringed” with a multimeter in the same way and with the same desired result as the central wire (described above). During active use of the VAZ 2109, it is better to replace the armored wires approximately once a year, since their service life is designed for approximately this period.

Is it because of the candles?

Often the cause of the disappearance of the spark is the spark plugs themselves. If they have not changed for a long time, then even with high-quality high voltage pulse the spark will be weak or disappear altogether. Problems also arise with “fresh” candles. When the fuel mixture is highly enriched, they quickly become covered with a thick layer of soot, which is a dielectric and therefore reduces the quality of contact between the electrodes. In this case, you should do

Any problem with the ignition system vehicle accompanied by serious engine malfunctions, and in some cases even a complete stop. If the spark between the electrodes of the spark plugs is weak or completely absent, then this is a clear sign (by the way, the main one) of a malfunction of the ignition system. The most unpleasant thing is that the spark disappears when the owner needs to go on urgent business.

Why is there no spark on the ignition coil, where to look for a fault?

If there is no spark, it is recommended to first inspect the blocks and wires of the ignition system. If there is water, dirt or oil on the wires or block, wipe them with a dry cloth. Then try to start the engine, maybe this time it will start. If the engine does not start, inspect the wires high voltage. It is important to know that the wires should not be “loose”, they should be neat without breaking the insulation. If any violations are detected in the insulation, the wires are replaced with new ones.

Next, we check all the contacts; to do this, just rub them with your hand. No spark? Then perhaps the fault lies in the spark plugs that do not work, perhaps there is a short to ground, the wires of the low voltage circuit are broken, the ignition coil or the distribution breaker is out of order.

Start looking for a spark in the spark plug wires - remove the tip of the spark plug wire from the spark plug and bring the tip to the ground at a distance of five to eight millimeters (the nearest metal part of the car that is not touched by paint), then turn on the starter for a few seconds.

Pay attention to the starter. When the starter rotates, there should be a continuous bright white spark with a faint blue tint. If the spark is red, yellow or purple, then we can say that the car’s ignition system is in a faulty state. Still no spark? Then check the ignition coil.

To check the ignition coil, you need to pull out the central wire that comes from the coil from the distributor-breaker cover. With the starter rotating, by analogy with the spark plugs, we check the spark from the wire. If a spark appears, then the ignition coil is in good condition, and the fault is most likely in the distributor. If a spark does not appear, then the ignition coil is most likely faulty or there is an open circuit in the low voltage circuit.

Troubleshooting the breaker-distributor

We carefully inspect the cover of the breaker-distributor from the inside. If the cover is in good condition, then it is enough to wash it with gasoline. If cracks are visible on the cover, it is replaced with a new one. To check whether the central carbon contact of the breaker-distributor is “stuck”, just move it with your finger.

To check the integrity of the rotor insulation of the breaker-distributor, you need to lay out the central high-voltage wire from the rotor electrode with a gap, then, with the ignition on, close and open the contacts of the breaker by hand. If sparks appear in the gap, then we can talk about a rotor malfunction. In this case, the rotor is replaced.

To check the low voltage circuit, you will need a “control” 12-volt lamp with a power of no more than 3 watts. The lamp is connected on one side to the low voltage terminal, and on the other side it is connected to the vehicle ground. Then we manually close the contacts of the distributor-breaker and turn on the ignition. If the low voltage circuit is working properly warning lamp When the contacts are opened, it will light up, and when the contacts are closed, it will go out. If the light does not light up when disconnected, then the fault may be in the ignition coil, or more precisely, in its primary winding or low voltage wires.

If the light glows both when the contacts are closed and when the contacts are opened, this indicates that the breaker contacts are heavily oxidized (heavily oxidized wires are cleaned and the gap is adjusted), there is a break in the wires that go from the terminal to the lever, a break in the wire connecting the movable interrupter-distributor disk with housing.

When there is no spark after an unsuccessful attempt to start the engine, or the spark on the spark plugs suddenly disappears and, of course, the engine does not start, then some novice drivers do not know where to start to get rid of this malfunction. This article will describe the reasons why a spark may be absent or appear every once in a while, and will also discuss methods for simple diagnostics (troubleshooting) of the ignition system.

I have already written about repairing the ignition system and you can read about it in detail here. It describes in detail the testing of all components of the ignition system, both modern non-contact electronic and more ancient contact system ignition

But this article will describe when there is no spark, the reasons and specific actions to ensure that a spark appears on the spark plugs.

No spark causes and solutions.

• 1. Let's start with the simplest and gradually move on to more complex reasons. The first and most commonplace reason is discharged. Of course, this can be determined without a voltmeter, since a discharged battery will not crank the crankshaft with an electric starter of a car or motorcycle. But many drivers, after an unsuccessful attempt to start with an electric starter, try to start the car with a pusher, hoping that the energy of the discharged battery is not enough for the starter, but is quite enough for the ignition system. In most cases this is not the case.

And if the energy of a discharged battery for a contactless electronic battery in most cases is enough to cause a spark and a successful attempt to start the engine from the pusher, then for an older contact system, the energy of a discharged battery will not be enough to cause a spark (especially if the contacts are burnt, and this happens often). Therefore, in order not to guess and not waste human energy on pushing the car, we simply bring the battery back to normal using. Beginners can read how to properly charge the battery.

• 2. Another simple and banal reason why there will be no spark on the spark plug is that it is simple or simply necessary to clean the spark plug (how to check and properly clean the spark plug). Of course, the spark plugs don’t all fail at once, and if one of the spark plugs fails, the four-cylinder engine will simply start to stall. Therefore, this reason is only suitable for single-cylinder motorcycle engines, but still it was worth mentioning, let’s move on.

But before checking and cleaning a non-working spark plug, try swapping the high-voltage wires and if a spark appears on a previously non-working spark plug, then the reason is not in the spark plug, but in the spark plug wire, which should be replaced.

• 3. The third reason for the loss of spark, which often happens on used cars and motorcycles, is there is no voltage at the ignition coil terminal after turning the ignition key. You should use a tester set to voltmeter mode (measuring DC) measure at the coil terminals whether a voltage of 12 - 13 volts is supplied to terminal B+ of the coil (see figure) when the ignition switch is turned on. If it doesn’t, then you should check the integrity of the wire going from the lock to the coil (or from the mounting block to the coil - GP wire in Figure 1), and also check whether the terminals are oxidized.
• 4. If voltage comes to terminal B+ of the coil after turning on the ignition switch, but there is still no spark, then you should check the integrity of the wire and the cleanliness of the terminals of the wire coming to the distributor from the coil (the black wire marked with the letter C in Figure 1) and in general check all the wires and terminals of the low-voltage circuit of the ignition system (check the wires marked with the letters G and K, as well as GC and K. It also wouldn’t hurt to check the operation of the ignition switch itself 8 and the ignition switch relay 7, which rarely fail but still fail. And of course, we check the integrity of the fuses responsible for these circuits (in general, I advise beginners to check all the fuses at the very beginning).
• 5. On a non-contact electronic ignition system, use a voltmeter to check the presence of a voltage of 12 volts (after turning on the ignition switch) at terminal B+ of the ignition coil, as well as at terminal 4 of the switch and check the integrity of the wire marked with the letters GP in Figure 2. We also check the integrity of the wire and the cleanliness of terminals K of the coil and terminal 1 on the switch and the integrity of the control wire of the gearbox connecting them.
  We also check the integrity and reliability of the connection (cleanliness of the terminals) with the car body of the black wire marked with the letter H in Figure 2, which connects terminal 2 of the switch to the car body. What can happen on the car due to poor contact of a lot of other wires, I advise you to read this useful article.
• 6. Next, we check the integrity of the wires and the reliability of the connection between terminals 3, 5, and 6 of the switch and the Hall sensor (wires marked with the letters Z, P and BC in Figure 2). If the terminals are securely connected and not oxidized, and the wires are intact, then we check the functionality of the hall sensor itself (how to do this). Well, you can find out how to check the functionality of the switch and ignition coil by clicking on the very first link at the beginning of this article, in the article about repairing the ignition system).
• 7. Having checked the low-voltage circuit of the ignition system, as described above, if everything is in order and a spark has not appeared, then we check the high-voltage part of the system. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then first of all we check the central high-voltage wire G (see Fig. 2), connecting ignition coil 5 and distributor 1. The tips of this wire must be clean and must be tightly inserted into the mounting sockets of the distributor cover and the ignition coil . We check the wire itself for integrity using a tester set to ohmmeter mode.
• 8. If there is no spark on only one spark plug out of four, then we check the high-voltage wire of the non-working spark plug (you can swap the wires, as described above, or check the wire of the non-working spark plug using a tester). Also, having removed the distributor cover, we check it for integrity (there should not be even the slightest cracks) and the cleanliness of all contacts inside and outside the cover, and the integrity of the carbon (graphite cylinder) in the center of the cover.

Also, pay attention to whether the contacts on the system with contact ignition are burnt (we clean them), also check the required gap between the contacts using a feeler gauge (more about this in the article about repairing the ignition system - link to the article at the very beginning of the text).

• 9. One more common reason loss of spark is a burnout of the resistor in the slider (and the sliders are different, as can be seen from the figure just above), indicated in the figure by yellow arrows. To make sure that there is no spark precisely for this reason, you should check the integrity of this resistor with a tester (turned on in buzzer or ohmmeter mode - the resistance of a working resistor should be approximately 5 - 6 kOhm). For those who don’t have a tester on the go, and also need to somehow get home, you should just wrap the resistor with a piece of foil and insert it into place. If a spark appears, then of course the problem is in the resistor.
• 10. It happens that the spark disappears (or appears every other time) due to the failure of the capacitor (installed on the breaker of the oldest cars or domestic motorcycles). This can be easily treated by replacing the capacitor. I wrote how to check the capacitor in the same article about repairing the ignition system (the very first link at the beginning of this article).
• 11. On the latest injection machines, the engine will not start due to the failure of the crankshaft sensor, but we read how to replace or check it, as well as. Also, a loss of spark occurs when the ignition module (ECU) fails, which fails quite rarely. In this case, you will have to look for a working unit and install it to replace the faulty one (buy a new one or look for it at disassembly).

That seems to be all the nuances, when there is no spark, the cause and methods of eliminating them on your own, good luck to everyone.

As you know, for an engine to operate, two conditions are necessary: ​​the presence of fuel and a spark to ignite it. In cases where the spark disappears, starting power plant becomes impossible.

This applies to a situation where the spark disappears completely, but there may be no spark on individual cylinders, when the engine starts, there is instability, a decrease in dynamics and against the background of an increase in fuel consumption.

The situations are different, as are the troubleshooting paths.

9 reasons why there is no spark at all:

Spark plugs

The electrodes of the spark plug may become coated, carbon deposits may appear, sometimes completely closing the gap between the electrodes, an insulator breakdown may occur, the electrodes will burn out and the spark plug will fail.

Ignition coil

There may be an interturn short circuit in the ignition coil or a winding break.

Distributor distributor

The distributor may have faulty contacts, a Hall sensor, a broken slider, or a crack in the cover.

Ignition switch

The ignition switch may be faulty contact group(burning of contacts, melting of the plastic protrusion that controls the switching of contacts.

High voltage wires

The problem in the wires can be expressed in their cracking, burning of the internal core and breakdown of the external insulation.

Hall sensor

IN contactless system ignition, the Hall sensor is responsible for interrupting the spark, failures of which are often caused by the loosening of its mounting bolts, or a breakdown of the sensor itself.

In the photo - hall sensor

Crankshaft sensor

If there is no spark, then the wire of this cylinder is checked with a known good spark plug, and if a spark appears, then the problem is in the spark plug that was previously in the cylinder. A new spark plug is installed and the engine is started, if the cylinder is working, then the problem was in the spark plug, but if not, then you need to check the compression in this cylinder, as well as the clearance in the valves of this cylinder (pinched valve clearances) to identify the cause of the problem.

If there is no spark when checking a known-good spark plug, you need to check the condition of the output to this cylinder in the distributor cover (a crack is possible).

On injection engines It is not recommended to check spark plugs by contacting them with ground, as the ECU and other components may fail. electronic systems. To check the spark on injection engines, there are special devices - spark gaps, which are recommended to be used.

Since spark plugs most often fail, we recommend that you always have a spare set so that they can be quickly replaced on the road.

Resume

As we can see, having knowledge about the structure and operation of the ignition system, as well as a car tester, will help any car owner identify and find a fault without contacting a car service center.