The engine does not pull, where to look for the reasons. Why the car does not pull: causes of engine power loss and how to fix the problem New engine does not pull

As a rule, during long-term operation vehicle almost every driver sooner or later notices that the engine pulls poorly. In other words, power unit can hardly cope with loads, there is a loss, the unit needs to be spun to high speed to maintain the usual pace, the car accelerates worse from a stop, slowly picks up speed, etc.

At the same time, the motor in many cases runs smoothly, does not troit, no, knock or noise during operation. We note right away that there is a fairly wide list possible causes, along which the warm engine does not pull, there is a loss of engine power to cold and / or hot.

In this article, we will talk about why the engine does not pull, and also consider the most common malfunctions that manifest themselves in the form of a loss of traction in the power unit.

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The motor does not pull: the main reasons for reducing engine power

So, if no other symptoms, except for the loss of traction, are found, then it is immediately necessary to pay attention to the quality of the fuel, the correct operation of the system, and.

  • As practice shows, more than half of the cases of reducing the efficiency of internal combustion engines are associated with fuel. The engine does not pull due to the fact that low-quality or unsuitable fuel for this type of engine can be poured into the tank (for example, 92nd gasoline instead of 95th).

In some cases, after refueling, there may also be problems with starting the engine, an engine appears. To solve this problem, it is enough to dilute the available fuel with better quality. Less often, it becomes necessary to completely drain the fuel from the tank, after which an additional flushing of the power system is performed.

Usually, such manipulations are necessary when, in parallel with the loss of traction, an unstable operation of the internal combustion engine is noted, and under load, the engine does not start well, on the panel, etc.

Also, owners of gasoline engines can independently determine the quality of gasoline. To check the candles need to be unscrewed from the engine. Violation of the process of combustion of the fuel-air mixture in the cylinders, as well as the presence of impurities in the fuel, can be detected by soot on spark plugs and its color.

For example, if there are many third-party metal-containing additives and additives in the fuel, then the skirt and electrodes may be covered with a reddish soot (brick color). Black soot will indicate that the fuel is not burning properly, etc. In any case, failures in the process of combustion of the working mixture lead to the fact that the engine stops pulling.

  • The next step in the diagnosis becomes. The decrease in the efficiency of these elements is also accompanied by a drop in the power of the power unit.

This is especially noticeable during sharp accelerations, and when the car is already moving at high speed. In other words, the motor does not have "reserve" for further acceleration.

Candles may turn out to be dirty, and it should not be ruled out that their resource has come to an end. To fix this problem, you can make or immediately replace the entire kit with a new one.

At the same time, it is important to take into account that if new candles are correctly selected for a particular engine in terms of glow number and other parameters, but still quickly become dirty, then the cause of the loss of traction is not in them. The formation of soot in this case indicates problems with mixture formation or combustion of the fuel charge in the cylinders.

  • If everything is in order with the candles, then it is necessary to check the condition of the fuel and air filters. In the first case, insufficient throughput can lead to the fact that the required amount of fuel is not supplied to the cylinders to prepare the so-called "power" mixture.

As a result, the engine loses power, that is, it does not pull under loads. In such a situation, it is enough to replace the indicated filter element. As for the air filter, the problem is similar to the fuel filter, however, in this case, there is a lack of air in the air-fuel mixture.

This leads to the fact that the fuel without a sufficient amount of oxygen burns incompletely. Under such conditions, the engine power naturally falls, carbon deposits form in the combustion chamber, candles become heavily contaminated, etc. To solve the problem, it also needs to be replaced.

Malfunctions of the power supply system, ignition and disturbed mixture formation

If problems with spark plugs and filters can be identified right on the road, then more serious problems associated with the power and ignition system are much more difficult to diagnose and fix on the spot. In cases where the engine does not pick up speed, and jerks and dips are noted when pressing the gas pedal, it is necessary to check and or injector.

Let's focus on the more common electronic injection. In the list of the main malfunctions of modern injection internal combustion engines, there are:

  • malfunctions, reduced performance or contamination of the fuel pump mesh filter;
  • malfunctions of injector nozzles;
  • problems with sensors or ECU;
  • malfunctions of the ignition system;
  • air leakage and leakage of fuel lines;

If we talk about the ignition system, in addition to candles, you should also check ignition coils, etc. As for the fuel supply, at the initial stage, the pressure in the fuel rail (rail) should be measured. In parallel, the pressure regulator in the fuel rail is also checked.

Often, on many cars, problems are associated with fuel pump, which is located in the gas tank, as well as with the specified regulator. To measure the fuel pressure, a pressure gauge is connected to the rail, the values ​​obtained are compared with those recommended for a particular engine. If the pressure is below normal, then both the fuel pump and the pressure regulator may be the culprit.

The task of the regulator is to dump excess fuel into the return line at a time when the pressure is above normal. If the settings are wrong or the regulator itself is leaking or faulty, then the fuel will be dumped into the return line ahead of time. To check this, air is pumped with a compressor or pump, the pressure in the rail increases. If the regulator has worked before the recommended pressure indicator, the element must be adjusted or replaced.

Other causes of reduced engine output

The condition also has a great influence on the power of the motor. The point is that in order to protect environment from harmful emissions during the operation of the internal combustion engine, catalytic converters are installed in the outlet.

During operation, the filter catalyst may be destroyed, the throughput of the exhaust system is reduced. As a result, the engine is "strangled". The check is made by measuring the pressure before and after the catalyst. You can also remove the element and inspect its condition visually.

As a rule, official services offer to replace a worn element, but the price of the spare part is very high. For this reason, on many cars in the CIS, the catalyst is simply knocked out, and the control unit is “cheated” programmatically or in other available ways.

Also, when the engine power is reduced, it is necessary to check separately to exclude the possibility of a valve timing failure. Sometimes there are situations when the belt can jump one tooth, the chain stretches, etc.

In this case synchronous operation valve mechanism in relation to the cycles of the internal combustion engine may be broken. This leads to various failures, unstable operation of the unit and a decrease in power.

We also add that engine wear and certain malfunctions also affect engine power. As a general rule, worn-out used ICEs typically lose about 10% of their advertised power.

If the driver feels that there are more losses, then the engine needs. Low compression in the cylinders can occur as a result of wear of the cylinder walls, piston rings, or incomplete closing, etc.

One way or another, any leaks in the combustion chamber will cause the expanding gases during the combustion of the fuel to break out of the cylinder. This means that the pressure of these gases on the piston will decrease, and the internal combustion engine itself will pull poorly and work unstably.

Finally, we note that also the reason that the car lost in dynamics may not be the engine, but the transmission. In other words, the power unit develops enough power, but it is not fully transferred to the wheels.

This usually manifests itself in such a way that the engine roars, the speed is high, but the car does not move or acceleration is very slow in low gears. Often such problems are associated with clutch or slippage of the automatic transmission, as well as with wedging of the brake system. To check the brakes, it is enough to disperse the car on a flat road, then turn on the neutral gear.

If, when coasting, it is noticeable that the car immediately began to slow down, then the problem is obvious, the wheels are slightly blocked. If there are no problems with the brakes, then automatic transmission diagnostics are necessary. It is better to entrust the specified procedure to experienced specialists by delivering the car to the service.

Read also

Purpose, design features, installation location of the fuel pressure regulator of the injection engine. RTD malfunction symptoms, device check.

  • As a result, jerks and dips appear when accelerating, the car jerks in motion in transient conditions. Causes and troubleshooting.


  • Many at least once had to deal with a situation where the engine that worked perfectly before was “blown away”, the car seemed to grow an anchor from behind. The reasons why the engine does not pull and does not gain momentum are various, but it is not difficult to recognize the signs of the majority even without the skills of an automobile diagnostician or minder.

    Common causes for all engines

    The characteristics of the motor specified in the passport data of the car are provided under certain conditions. This is the filling of the cylinders with air, which is the working fluid in the internal combustion engine, corresponding to the norm. This is also the opportunity to heat it up to the required temperature in time - to supply a certain amount of fuel of the proper quality and set it on fire in time (the pressure peak for maximum efficiency should occur at the moment the piston passes top dead center).

    ICE duty cycle

    The loss of engine power, regardless of its design, is the result of a number of common causes. Let's start with fuel: its quality remains lottery, while the engine is tuned to a certain grade. That is, the mixture prescribed in the injection maps or specified by the carburetor settings can deviate from the ideal one, and the burning rate of the mixture changes. So, if problems appeared immediately after refueling, you yourself understand which way to look.

    Filling the cylinders with air is rigidly connected with the valve timing. It is enough to leave the marks, as the cycles of the internal combustion engine will be shifted: already a difference of 1 tooth can significantly reduce the power of the motor. Moreover, it is not necessary for a belt or chain to jump - more and more motors receive keyless pulleys, which require rigid fixation of the shafts with special devices during installation. If you do not reach the pulley, and one day it will move from a given position. And it’s good if the engine simply loses traction, and does not hit the piston on the valves that did not close in time, driving them into the cylinder head.

    For engines with variable valve timing, the camshafts (at least one) have the ability to shift so that, with sufficient throttle response at the bottom (small phase overlap), they do not lose at the top (the camshafts move “toward each other”, increasing the overlap phase, which at high speeds increases power ). Possible reasons why the machine does not pick up speed is a failure of the VVTi control valve or problems with the phase shifting clutches. We have already discussed this issue, speaking about.

    In addition, the filling of the cylinders is tied to the intake and exhaust resistance. Score air filter so much so that it loses its throughput - you have to manage it, but oil emissions through the crankcase ventilation system, especially if the piston is already worn out and the oil catcher is primitive, are not uncommon. On the VAZ-2106, it is not difficult to make the engine “sip oil” through the crankcase ventilation, and even on fresh front wheel drive vehicles(2109, 2110, 2114) such cases are possible. An oily air filter has a sharp increase in resistance, hence the loss of engine thrust.

    The release on carbureted cars and old diesel engines is simple, and it is enough to reduce the flow area so that the engine begins to “choke” on exhaust gases, except perhaps with a powerful blow (when moving over bumps, for example) or a canonical potato - but it is at least immediately noticeable.

    If the engine does not pull with electronic injection, then the catalyst is suspect in this case. Overheating, fuel ingress due to malfunctions of the power system can cause sintering of its cells. For diesels with particulate filters Soot becomes the main enemy: automatic filter burning on the go is ineffective, and at least forced regeneration must be performed.

    Problems with the release easily give themselves away: a muffled engine, on a subsequent attempt to start, throws smoke into the intake, the sound of the engine changes, leaks immediately “crawl out” (the exhaust begins to “cut” to the damaged area).

    The motor must not only receive the right amount of air and fuel - it must ignite in time. A gasoline engine needs an appropriate ignition timing, a diesel engine needs an injection timing. Since there is no separate ignition system on modern injection engines, ignition timing problems are primarily characteristic of carburetor machines and old ones. injection systems with a distributor (the Japanese used such systems right up to the beginning of the 2000s). Check the basic lead angle, set by the distributor, and the operation of the advance automatons in it (in case of malfunctions, the angle normal to Idling, will start to "leave" when gaining speed).

    A separate case is motors where the distributor is driven by a separate pulley from the timing belt (old Audis and Volkswagens). Here, when replacing the belt, the distributor pulley is set “as it should be” (there are no marks on this pulley!), Forgetting that the distributor must be oriented with a cam at the risk on the crankcase under it when replacing the belt. After such a replacement, the car stops driving, as the ignition angles change. For diesel engines with a mechanical injection pump, the initial injection angle is set, in addition, the advance regulator works - they are checked according to the data from the repair and maintenance instructions.

    On gasoline engines, we also add spark plugs to the suspects: even if the engine runs normally at idle, it is not a fact that the spark plugs will work well under load, when the pressure in the cylinders at the end of the compression stroke increases and the conditions for sparking become worse. It is worth putting another kit for testing: without an oscilloscope that allows you to take voltage curves from a working ignition system, it is difficult to determine how the candle actually behaves under load. In the illustration below, look at the peak voltages corresponding to the moment of sparking: in the third cylinder, the gap is excessively increased, the spark flares up at too much voltage, and its duration drops (the power accumulated in the ignition coil is not enough for normal spark burning).

    If we talk about compression, then under normal conditions it decreases as it wears so slowly that the decrease in power occurs imperceptibly for the driver. An exception is rapidly developing breakdowns (cracks in piston rings, destruction of partitions between rings,). Simultaneously with the drop in power, the stability of idling will drop sharply, the final diagnosis will be unambiguously made by a compression gauge.

    As for turbocharged engines, the state of the turbocharger is reflected well in their dynamics. An ideal centrifugal pump (turbocharger impeller) has a quadratic dependence of performance on speed: once the speed drops by half, the boost pressure will drop by four. Wedging of the rotor due to destruction or coking of the bearings, burning of the “hot” impeller is the probable reason why the turbocharged machine does not pull. Here, as with compression, a pressure gauge will help out.

    Causes of power loss in a carburetor engine

    Here it is worth immediately checking the fuel level and the operation of the fuel pump: “underfilling” the fuel immediately betrays itself under load with a loss in dynamics, shooting through the carburetor. Overfilling due to a faulty carburetor locking needle will in the same way lead to a loss of power by the engine, here black smoke and firing from the muffler will become a characteristic feature.

    The dynamics of the car is perceived better during acceleration, so a defect in the accelerator pump can also become a possible cause of the “stupidity” of the car. The fact is that all carburetor systems are designed to work in static modes, while the mixture becomes leaner when the speed is set. An accelerator pump serves to combat this over-depletion: when you press the gas pedal, the diaphragm pushes a dose of gasoline through the shut-off valve into the atomizers that go into the diffusers. If the diaphragm of the accelerator pump is broken or the sprayers are clogged, the acceleration of the car will immediately deteriorate so much that it is hard not to notice. It is not difficult to check the accelerator pump - after removing the air filter or the "turtle" from the carburetor, you need to sharply press the throttle actuator: your fingers will feel resistance (the diaphragm will create pressure in the accelerator pump), and gasoline streams should hit the inlet from the atomizers.

    In operating modes, the composition of the air-fuel mixture is set statically by a set of fuel and air jets. It is worth blowing them out, and in case of noticeable deposits, rinse with a cleaner: even if this is not the problem, it will not be superfluous to maintain the health of the main dosing system.

    Does not pull injection engine

    Why doesn't the car pull when the injection systems are feedback-capable and can self-adjust in a "closed loop"? Alas, the possibilities of self-regulation are not as wide as we would like.

    The first enemy of injection systems is insufficient pressure fuel. When the fuel consumption is minimal, then the correction margin is enough for idling. But one has only to put a load on the engine, as the correction will jump to the limit threshold, but the nozzles will still “underfill”.

    The pressure in the fuel rail is set by three nodes: the fuel pump itself, the pressure regulator and a set of filters (coarse and fine cleaning). The performance of a serviceable fuel pump is several times greater than the needs of the engine at maximum flow - this is done so that the wear of the pump affects the operation of the engine as little as possible. Therefore, a fuel pressure regulator is used, which dumps "excess" fuel either immediately at the pump outlet or from the fuel rail after the fine filter.

    In the first case, the fuel rail is called drainless (16-valve VAZ engines, modern foreign cars), in the second - drain. The difference between these systems is in the location of the regulator and in its operation. On the drain ramps, the pressure regulators are controlled by a vacuum in the intake manifold, the pressure in the rail varies depending on the load (at normal 3 bar for VAZ at idle, it is 2.3-2.4 bar, take this into account when diagnosing!). On drainless, the pressure is maintained constant relative to the atmosphere and, depending on the model of the car, is 3.5-4 bar. Exception - Systems direct injection where the operating pressure ranges from 20 to 70 bar.

    Something else useful for you:

    Resistance fuel filters does not affect when measuring fuel pressure "in the plug" (the pump is forced to turn on with the engine turned off, when there is no fuel flow in the rail) and minimally at idle. But on the other hand, under load, an excessive increase in the resistance of the filters reduces the fuel supply to the rail, which will lead to a loss of speed. Therefore, measure the pressure at idle and under load (for example, by hanging the drive axle and braking the wheels in gear). In cases where idling is normal, and the problems are on the go, it is pointless to measure pressure only at idle (XX).

    Check exception steps:

    1. Remove the coarse filter ("mesh" at the inlet). For a number of machines, this is a well-known problem - for example, on the second generation of Focuses.
    2. Replace fine filter.
    3. Measure pressure under load.
    4. On engines with a drain rail, pinch or otherwise shut off the return line to eliminate the influence of the fuel pressure regulator. On engines with a drainless ramp, the RTD is installed in the fuel pump module, here it is easier to temporarily install a plug washer made of polyethylene or other material that is not destroyed by gasoline under it.
    5. Measure the pressure again: if it has increased, then the RTD needs to be replaced, otherwise the pump needs to be replaced.

    The second reason for "underfilling" is. Even with normal filter operation, deposit formation on atomizers is inevitable over time. It is possible to evaluate in “home” conditions only the shape of the spray jet by removing the ramp and turning the motor with a starter (Attention! This procedure is a fire hazard!). A clean nozzle should “dust” evenly, and not give separate streams or pour to the side. It is possible to evaluate the performance of injectors and compare it with the nominal one only at the stand.

    The loss of dynamics is a consequence of excessive enrichment of the mixture. The fuel pressure regulator cannot be blamed here (pump performance, even when operating without an RTD, is not so high that the correction margin of the injection ECU does not block enrichment). It is much more likely that the injectors are leaking (again, it is checked at the stand) or the failure of the sensors that are used to calculate the injection time.

    Here, the undisputed leader is the mass air flow sensor - an accurate but sensitive device. As the DMRV becomes dirty and aging, it overestimates the readings, the car begins to consume significantly more fuel. As a result, the over-enrichment of the mixture can no longer be corrected for. But such a malfunction is immediately visible: the car will begin to smoke, the candles will become overgrown with black soot. On motors with an absolute pressure sensor, the air temperature sensor is more likely to fail (here it is a separate unit, while it is built-in in the DMRV).

    On cars with an electronic throttle, it is worth checking the operation of the servo by removing the nozzle from the throttle and giving it a gas flow. The throttle should open evenly, without pauses and wedging, indicating problems with the drive gearbox or (the axis, acquiring soot, wedging in the housing).

    Video: Lost power. Loss of power

    Seal

    Sufficient engine power is a necessary condition for the normal operation of the car. But what to do when the diesel does not pull, although not "colorful" smoke? Yes, nothing - rather call in our service center. But first, find out the possible theoretical reasons for this phenomenon, so as not to suspect mechanics of “auto-deception”, which costs extra money.

    What is needed for a diesel engine to work "in full"

    Most often, even when there is no white, black or blue smoke, the motor does not develop full power. This happens sometimes due to a decrease in the patency of the coarse fuel filter in the car tank, and a decrease in the patency of the fine fuel filter. Of course, most motorists are in awe of their car and therefore, having traveled exactly as much as the manufacturer indicated, they are in a hurry to change the filters in good faith.

    But often automakers cannot even imagine that in diesel fuel water or dirt may be present in such quantity.

    Therefore, the first and main rule: if you want the engine to pull "to the fullest" - change the fuel filter after at least half the mileage specified by the manufacturer.

    This is especially true when refueling somewhere far from major cities. However, you can come to us, and we will help not only with repair of injection pump or other units, but also modernizing the fuel system, making it less vulnerable to our fuel.

    To make sure that the reason for the loss of power by a diesel engine is low-quality fuel, you need to change the factory opaque fuel line connecting the high-pressure fuel pump to the fuel filter with a transparent auto hose. After changing the hose and fuel filter be sure to bleed the fuel system, removing excess air.

    After completing all these requirements, start the engine. If the fuel filter is clogged, you will see air bubbles circulating in the clear hose. By increasing the engine speed, the number of bubbles will visually increase significantly.

    Air bubbles in fuel system are the cause of interruptions in the operation of the motor (engine "troit"). In this case, there is a loss of power.

    What to do when the engine "troit" only at high speeds

    If on average and idling you have no complaints about work diesel engine, and when switching to high speeds, the motor starts to “troit” (which, of course, does not allow it to work at nameplate power), then you should think about:

    • malfunctions of the gas distribution mechanism of the engine (timing);
    • turbocharger malfunctions;
    • loss of fuel filter patency (when it is literally clogged with dirt).

    To find a specific cause, again, start with the fuel fine filter - it may be time to replace it. Disconnect the fuel hose from the filter fitting and lower it into a can of clean diesel fuel.

    Now start the engine, and if it runs at any speed like a clock, then the cause of unstable operation was just a dirty fine fuel filter. Which means it's time to replace it. If the problem persists, try again to clean the coarse filter from dirt. And bleed the fuel system again.

    If, after additional cleaning of the filters, the engine stubbornly troit at a speed above average, then check the compression. It can decrease as a result of a violation of the functionality of the valve mechanism, including due to a malfunction of the hydraulic compensators (when one of them jammed due to dirty oil) and the cylinder-piston group.

    In a word, the reasons for the operation of the motor are not full power enough. And in order to make the right (and minimally priced) decision, it’s easier and cheaper to visit our auto center in order to forget once and for all that your diesel engine “doesn’t pull”. So don't put off until tomorrow what you should have done the day before yesterday. nozzle repair or engine diagnostics.

    According to statistics, every car owner during a long service life of a car experiences problems with traction, depending on the reasons, the car either accelerated poorly or could not even start at all. In other words, the engine simply does not have enough power to cope with all the loads - to gain speed and speed.

    Dashboard

    The most interesting thing is that the motor in such situations behaves as if it were completely “healthy”. You will not hear from him any noise, or knocking, or other evidence of a malfunction. I would like to note right away that the list of possible causes of power loss is huge and it is very difficult to describe all the malfunctions. Here is a list of only the most common ones, as well as a detailed analysis of their nature and possible causes of occurrence.

    The main causes of power loss

    If no other problems are found along the way, as soon as the loss of traction, then first of all you should pay attention to quality. As practice says, in 51% of cases low-quality fuel is associated with the loss of power. The tank is filled with bad or inappropriate fuel for this model. It's not rare that modern machines, especially foreign production do not tolerate 92 brands of gasoline. Sometimes it can be done quite simply, it is enough to dilute more quality fuel. Often such manipulations help with unstable operation of the internal combustion engine, « » turns and the like. Then along the way there is a "" on the tidy.

    Owners of gasoline engines can easily check the quality by looking at the candles. If the reason lies in violations of combustion, as well as the presence of impurities, this will be displayed on the candles, soot will appear, and the color will change.

    For example, when the fuel is oversaturated with third-party metal-containing components, the "skirt" and contacts will become covered with a reddish tint. The formation of black soot indicates incomplete combustion of the mixture. In any situation, with failures in the combustion processes, the engine loses power.

    Also, do not forget that when checking candles, you need to remember about the service life. They are not durable, especially if they were originally of poor quality. Now interesting fact if, after replacing the entire set of candles, “scale” forms just as quickly and the motor experiences the same problems, then the cause should be looked for in filters or cylinders.

    Problems with the valve timing arise due to incorrectly installed "tags" of the belt, timing chain. Belts stretch, chains jump, after which, due to ignoring problems, the consequences can be much sadder.

    Banal engine wear. Don't forget that used cars lose 10-15% of their power on average. If the power loss in your opinion is much greater, then it is reasonable to check the compression. Weak compression, and this is often less than 10 kg / m. indicates burnt-out cylinder walls, wear of rings, burnout of valves, and the like. Compression data for each model varies, but usually it is 12-14 kg / m. You can find out more about which one you have in the service book.

    Causes in the transmission. Worn clutch in manual transmission or automatic transmission slip. It is better to entrust the check to experienced craftsmen, especially for automatic transmissions.

    VAZ-2114 cars, from the beginning of production, are equipped with eight-valve engines with a volume of 1.5 liters. Since 2007, eight valve engine 1.6 l., which has an environmental class Euro-4. The operation of the car, sometimes not correct, over time presents "surprises". not at full power, traction decreases. Let's try to understand the causes and methods of elimination.

    The dynamics of the car, first of all, depends on the stable and stable operation of the engine. When the indicators of this characteristic decrease, this indicates that there are problems in the operation of the engine.

    Engine VAZ-2114

    Unstable operation of the engine is caused by the following:

    • The fuel filter has become dirty.
    • The fuel pump diaphragm is clogged.
    • Or do not work.
    • Insufficient.
    • On-board computer fails.
    • The nozzles are clogged (they need to be cleaned or).
    • The clutch disc has worn out.
    • Malfunctions in the operation of sensors that control: the position of the crankshaft,; coolant temperature; ; detonation.

    These are just some of the possible reasons why an engine can pull poorly over the entire rev range.

    It is worth mentioning the fuel pump, which fails. The real state of affairs is determined by detailed diagnostics.

    A brief analysis of the causes and their consequences on the VAZ-2114

    1. Pollution of the fine filter . determined visually. Debris particles present in fuel tank, gasoline, accumulate in the filter, the channels are clogged. Fuel supply is insufficient. "Treatment" - .

      Changing the fuel filter

    2. Fuel pump diaphragm clogged . The reason is the same, there are particles of dirt in gasoline. Solved by excavation, washing, blowing with compressed air

      We change the grid of the fuel pump

    3. Air filter clogged . For a short time, it is solved by blowing the filter, you can knock on a hard object. Ideally, the filter is replaced with a new one.

      Clean or change the air filter

    4. Spark plugs not working or not working . Determined by inspection, after twisting. One of the reasons - . The gaps are checked with a feeler gauge, the necessary one is set. To do this, the side electrode is bent to the desired value.

      Checking the gap between the spark plug electrodes

    5. Formed. The electrodes are cleaned with sandpaper (zero), cleaned, the gap is checked.

      Cleaning spark plugs

    6. The serviceability of the spark plugs is checked on a stationary stand. If problems occur, it must be replaced.

      Candles are best checked at a stand in a car service

    7. Insufficient compression in the cylinders . This defect appears due to the high wear of the cylinder-piston group. The result is increased consumption oil, incomplete combustion of the combustible mixture, gasoline enters the crankcase. In some cases, it is enough to replace the piston rings, in others it is necessary overhaul engine.

      We measure the compression in each cylinder

    8. Failure or breakdown electronic block management . Without special knowledge it is impossible to repair. Diagnostics is carried out with special devices. A flashing is possible, or the control unit is completely changed.

      We carry out diagnostics of the control unit

    9. Clogged nozzles . . There are additives in the fuel, but they do not give a special effect. Replacement may be required, so check out the material: "".

      You can clean the nozzles at home

    10. Clutch disc worn out . In motion, with an increase in speed, the car does not pick up the desired speed, slipping is felt. Expertly checked by starting off in fourth gear. If it stalls, everything is in order with the disk, if the engine is running, then there is a problem. Solved by replacing the clutch disc.

      Sensor fire check engine indicates a malfunction of the sensors

    conclusions

    Maintenance (TO), which should be carried out according to the manufacturer's recommendations, will avoid many problems. The only question is where to pass, at the “Kulibins”, or at specialized service stations equipped with the necessary equipment and apparatus. The choice is up to the owner of the vehicle. The sooner the prerequisites for the failure of a particular part are revealed, the less financial losses in the future. It should be remembered that timely maintenance increases the safe operation of the car.

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