Reason 2110 signal does not work. Repair of sound signals on VAZ cars of various modifications. Video with an example of tuning: installing a relay

Standard beep The VAZ 2110 is not particularly loud and sometimes it is not enough to get noticed. That is why, instead of the standard sound signal, many people install alternative options beeps, for example, from a Volga car. Before installation, you should make sure that the sound signal level is not higher than 120 dB, otherwise it will be problematic to pass maintenance. How to make the beep louder? You can completely replace the standard horn or install additional horns in the engine compartment of the car.

You can install a signal from the Volga in different ways. A simple replacement is not enough here. The fact is that two wires are suitable for the standard sound signal of the VAZ 2110 - positive and negative: the ground is supplied through the body, and the positive wire supplies current constantly, in addition, it also powers the radiator fan.
For the signal from the Volga to work, only one wire is needed - positive. The minus is supplied through the body. In addition, different current consumption occurs here. The standard sound signal of a VAZ 2110 consumes 5 amperes, and the signal from the Volga consumes 8 amperes. That is why here we will use 4 contact relay. The relay can be mounted inside the passenger compartment in the fuse box or in engine compartment
To install a relay inside the cabin of a VAZ 2110, we need the sound signal itself, a single-core wire, a wide female terminal, a 4-pin 30 ampere relay and a relay block. The sound signal from the Volga is larger than the standard one, so it is better to install it through brackets so that vibration does not spoil the sound quality.

It is preferable to install in a free slot in the fuse box.

At pin 85 we connect the wire from the 13-pin relay connector (horn switch on the steering wheel). If you look at the diagram, it is indicated in gray-black color, but in the photo it is white. We connect the wire from the 87th contact of the relay to the free space.

In order to supply the positive wire, we pass the wire from connector “Ш5-6” to the 30th contact of the relay and through the jumper to contact 86.

Plus, the signal is sent when the beep button is pressed; it is sent through pin 87. We do not use the red-white wire for the signals, so current is supplied to it, and accordingly, it needs to be insulated. The advantages of this method: the relay is located in the mounting block, which means moisture will not get there; The standard wiring is located under the hood, we take the direct current separately, that is, we do not take it from the radiator fan.
Now consider the case of installing a relay in the engine compartment. There are differences here from the first option, because all work will be carried out in the engine compartment. We use the same materials, only you will additionally need to purchase: a hanging fuse, 8 pieces of female terminals, a two-meter plastic tube. We place the horn in a convenient place, and connect the wiring according to any of the presented diagrams:

In the first scheme, we take the current from the fuse block, through its fuse, and in the second scheme, the plus is used directly from the battery, through a separate 20-amp fuse. It is recommended to use the second circuit to connect horns from the Volga to the VAZ 2110.
It is advisable to place the relay in a place where moisture will not get into it. It wouldn't hurt to wrap the relay with electrical tape or at least cover it with a bag.

We take a 8mm wrench and unscrew the 2 bolts securing the radiator grille, unclip the 2 lower latches, and remove the grille. We dismantle the standard sound signal and assemble the wiring according to the diagram. We carefully isolate all connections, and put the wire connecting the signals to each other into the corrugation. We fix the relay in a suitable place and put the radiator grill back.

A non-functioning horn on a car is a very dangerous malfunction. The most unpleasant thing is that they find out about this breakdown just when the signal is needed most - in a dangerous situation on the road. What could cause the signal to fail?

There are several reasons why the horn may stop working. Almost all of them are electrical and simply involve no contact where it should be. Let's go through them all:

Horn fuse blown

The very first and easiest check that can be performed when the sound signal is not working is the integrity of the fuse. If it turns out to be burnt, then it is possible in the car. Try inserting a whole fuse corresponding to the rating (). If it burns out in the same way, it means there is actually a short circuit. If not, then perhaps the fuse has simply exhausted its resource and you should pay attention to other reasons.

The horn button does not work

The signal in most cars is turned on by a button in the center of the steering wheel. There are variations with a button in the steering column switch or a certain position of this switch itself, but this is rare.

There are actually a whole bunch of places inside the steering wheel where contact can be lost, leading to the failure of the horn. To understand exactly where they can be located, you need to understand how the sound signal in the car turns on. Let's look at the diagram.

This scheme implies the presence of a signal activation relay. There is such a relay for everyone modern cars. On a certain category of cars (for example, VAZ classics), there is no relay. In this case, the signal is connected directly through the button on the steering wheel.

The control current from the relay is transmitted from the steering column to the steering wheel through a floating contact. There may be one, or maybe two. These contacts rub against a special conductive ring built into the steering wheel at the point where it is attached to the steering shaft. Due to the fact that the contacts are spring-loaded, they are constantly pressed against the ring, ensuring the transmission of current to steering wheel in any position.

ATTENTION! It is better to entrust all work related to disassembling the steering wheel on cars with airbags to a car service center. Unskilled actions can cause the airbag to deploy, which can lead to life-threatening injuries!

— Worn contacts

The pressure contacts on the steering column rub against the slip ring whenever you move the steering wheel and wear out over time. Sooner or later, a moment may come when they can no longer reach the contact ring on the steering wheel and then pressing the horn button will lead to nothing. To avoid this, during any repairs it is necessary to lubricate the contacts and the ring on the steering wheel with a conductive lubricant, for example, graphite. Such treatment will reduce the friction of the contacts on the ring and extend their service life.

— Worn slip ring

Exactly the same malfunction can befall the conductive ring in the steering wheel. It can also wear out and lead to signal failure. The method of struggle is the same - lubricant.

Wear of the clamping contacts or slip ring has an insidious property: due to uneven wear, contact may disappear only in certain steering positions. For example, when driving straight, the signal works, but when turning, it does not. Such symptoms almost always clearly indicate problems in the contact pair “steering column - steering wheel”.

Worn contacts and a ring in the steering wheel, as a rule, cannot be repaired. Therefore, the best solution is to replace these elements with new ones.

— Oxidized contacts inside the steering wheel

Another “steering” problem is the oxidation of internal contacts. Due to the large amount of oxides, a sufficient amount of current cannot pass through the contacts inside the steering wheel and the sound signal is silent. You need to disassemble the steering wheel and clean the contacts.

Horn relay or wiring failure

The next group of reasons for a malfunctioning sound signal is broken wiring or a failed relay. The wires in the signal power circuit can be simply broken, pinched, or even disconnected during major repairs. Often during reassembly, the wires are connected incorrectly or not connected at all. Make sure that all wires responsible for the signal are connected correctly. On some vehicles, the horn is positioned too low, causing transitional times year he finds himself in slush and water. Mixtures that are used to sprinkle roads against ice in winter are also added here. Under such conditions, the signal itself can oxidize and even rot the wires. Check this place out.

If your car has a horn relay, then it is worth checking it. Find where this relay is located using your car's complete wiring diagram and do an experiment: press the horn button and listen. If the relay clicks, it means it is probably working properly. Silent - you need to check the presence of voltage at the relay control contacts when the button is pressed.

Failed horn

If the relay still clicks, check for voltage on the signal itself. Here you will have to work with an assistant: one holds the signal button, and the other checks the voltage. The test can be done with a regular test light or a multimeter, which is more reliable. The multimeter is able to show a weak voltage, which will be a sign of heavily oxidized contacts in the signal power circuit or.

If voltage arrives, the “mass” signal wire has no oxides and is securely connected to the body, and the signal is silent, it means it has burned out. In this case, as a rule, the “beep” has to be replaced.

The absence of a sound signal on a car is a malfunction that affects traffic safety. The ability to promptly warn or attract the attention of pedestrians, as well as other road users, directly with the horn, can help avoid creating an emergency situation or an accident.

A malfunction such as the absence of a sound signal on VAZ family cars is quite easy to diagnose and repair with your own hands. To do this, you need to study the connection diagram (it is very simple) and follow the instructions to carry out the necessary checks.

VAZ sound signal diagram

Although the connection diagrams are slightly different, on the “classic” and front wheel drive cars VAZ, but they are very similar. The only difference is in the relay markings and the location of the fuse, otherwise they are completely identical.

Wiring diagram for the sound signal VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, (2106 after 1993), without relay:

1. Sound signals S-308 and S-309, (2106 – 20.3721-01);
2. Battery;
3. Fuse box (1 per signal);
4. Horn switch (steering wheel button);
5. Generator DC;

Sound signal circuit for VAZ 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2121, with relay:

1. Sound signals S-309 and S-308;
2. Battery;
3. Generator;
4. Fuse box;
5. Horn button on the steering wheel;
6. Horn relay RS – 528;

Diagram of sound signals VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114, 2115:

1. Sound signal;
2. Fuse and relay mounting block;
3. Steering wheel button;

Diagram for switching on the sound signal of VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 and their modifications:

1. Sound horn;
2. Power button on the steering wheel;
3. Mounting block with fuse (no relay)

Scheme for turning on the sound signal on VAZ 1117, 1118, 1119, 2192, 2194 (Kalina), VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172 (Priora):

1. Fuse and relay mounting block (control and comfort unit);
2. Horn button on the steering wheel;
3. Sound signal;

Replacement and repair of VAZ sound signal

The most common reason for the absence of a sound signal lies in the signals themselves. The reason is mechanical, moisture and oxidation lead to blocking of the sound membrane and, as a result, the absence of vibrations and sound effect. Sometimes you can restore functionality by spraying the signal with WD-40 or a similar composition.

On cars, where two signals are installed, as a rule, they are of different tones, low and high. If one signal fails, the second will not be able to fully provide the required power, and therefore requires replacement. As a rule, many signals are equipped with a tone adjustment screw, and if there are wheezing, grinding and other unwanted sound effects, you can use the adjustment to achieve a suitable sound. Also, with their help, you can move the “soured” membrane, thereby restoring the functionality of the signal.

Malfunctions of the electrical signal circuit:

– no signal:

1) check the presence of incoming mass or voltage on the signal itself (on old systems, “plus” is constant, but the signal was controlled by “minus”). If there is a plus and a minus that appears, when you press the horn, replace the signals themselves (the signals are non-separable and must be replaced if they fail);

2) Check the supply voltage (fuse, relay, mounting block);

3) Power button on the steering wheel (contacts, adjustment of switches and three-lever), presence of mass on the steering column;

– the signal wheezes or disappears:

Adjustment required;

– the sound signal appears spontaneously when turning:

1) Incorrect adjustment of the steering column switch (too much “pressed” towards the steering wheel);

2) Ground circuit on the steering column (signal control wire);

It should be noted that on some KALINA and PRIORA models the signals are set to anti-theft system(signals the opening or closing of doors, acts as a security system and alarm), and some reasons for the malfunction of the signals may be associated with it.

Sound signals, as such, are not among the most complex elements of a car, however, traffic safety and the ability to avoid emergency situations largely depend on their good condition. Be that as it may, even with all its simplicity of design, the sound signal (including on various modifications of the VAZ) may stop working and if such an unpleasant situation arises, you can most often cope with the problem on your own, it is enough to have the appropriate diagram at hand and follow a few simple recommendations.

In general, the connection diagrams for the sound signal on the VAZ “classic” series and on subsequent front-wheel drive models are quite similar and the main differences relate to the relay markings, as well as the location of the fuse. Among other things, on the earliest versions of the VAZ (2101, 2102, 2103 and a number of modifications 2106) in electrical diagram There is no sound signal or unloading relay at all.

VAZ sound signal circuit without relay

1. Rechargeable battery;
2. Fuse (one for two signals), located in the fuse block;
3. Horn switch in the form of a button on the steering wheel;
4. Generator.

VAZ sound signal circuit (2104 – 2107, and also 2121) with relay

1. Rechargeable battery;
2. DC generator;
3. A fuse common to the two signals (located in the fuse block);
4. Control relay (usually RS-528).

Sound signal circuit for VAZ Samara (2108, 2109, 21099), as well as for VAZ 2113 - VAZ 2115

Sound signal circuit for VAZ 2110 - VAZ 2112, as well as all existing modifications

1.Universal sound horn;

2. Signal control key located on the steering wheel;

3. Fuse in the mounting block (again, there is no relay).

Wiring diagram for the sound signal on the VAZ Kalina and VAZ Priora

1. Mounting block with fuse and relay (in the documentation it is sometimes called a control and comfort unit);
2. Sound signal control key;
3. Universal sound signal.

Possible reasons sound signal failure and elimination methods

Most common cause The loss of the sound signal lies in the imperfection of its design and poor protection from moisture and dirt. In other words, during operation, oxidation of the contacts occurs, as well as blocking of the sound membrane (as a result of which there are no vibrations and the necessary sound effect). Such failures can often be eliminated by adding a small amount of WD-40 or its equivalent to the signal, but in order to achieve a guaranteed and long-lasting result, it is still recommended to disassemble the signal and the control key in order to perform more thorough cleaning.

Among other things, on cars equipped with two signals (as a rule, they are of different tones), when one of the elements fails, a significant weakening of the output sound power occurs, and here you will have to determine the failed signal and change it. By the way, many signals are equipped with special adjustment controls and in the event of wheezing, grinding, etc. extraneous sounds You can improve the sound quality by turning the adjusting screw. You can also try to rip off the “soured” membrane by rotating it.

Troubleshooting Electrical Circuits

when there is no signal at all:

We check the presence and condition of the “ground”, as well as the supply voltage directly on the signal (it is necessary to take into account that on early VAZ models the “plus” “hangs” constantly, and control is carried out by closing the “minus”). If there is a stable plus and a minus appears when the key is closed, the signal itself is faulty and should be changed.

We check the supply voltage in the sections of the circuit with the fuse, the power relay and the mounting block as a whole;

We evaluate the condition of the contacts and the overall “mass” of the control button and eliminate all traces of oxidation.

The signal periodically disappears, and extraneous sounds can be heard when sounding:

We carry out debugging using the adjusting screw.

When turning the steering wheel, the signal begins to sound spontaneously:

Most likely, the steering column switch is installed incorrectly (too close to the steering wheel);

Alternatively, the ground on the steering column is shorted (via the signal control circuit).

Owners of cars of the same name often encounter a problem - the signal on the VAZ 2110 does not work. This is a rather unpleasant situation, especially in large cities - the traffic flow is oversaturated, and in these conditions there is only one way to declare yourself - by sounding a sound signal. This quite often allows you to avoid serious troubles, considering, moreover, that pedestrians react only to this sound, not paying attention to either markings or traffic lights.

Possible causes and solutions

By the way, fuse replacement– the first action that must be taken if there is no response to pressing the signal. , repairs have been completed. We congratulate ourselves on our success and go about our interrupted business.

This requires a thorough investigation, which is inappropriate to describe here - specialists themselves will easily figure out what’s going on, but beginners still cannot eliminate wiring defects ( I'll have to take the car to a service center). The last action is recommended when the fuse blows again after a short time.

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The second reason is much more labor-intensive. To diagnose the health of the sound signal, you need to connect it directly to the battery and check its functionality. In the negative case, we get a clear answer: the sound signal has failed for some reason.

But there are times when connecting a signal to battery, we ascertain its performance. Obviously, the reason for the refusal is something else.

It could be:

• violation of wiring integrity;
• lack of contact between the movable terminals and the slip ring.

In the second case, first, let's deal with the wires. It is quite simple to determine the “plus” one - it ends in the mounting block. First, we bridge both wires.

If the signal works, then we are convinced that the diagnosis is correct: there is no contact between the slip ring and the terminals. Fixing the malfunction is quite simple: you need to loosen the fixing nut and slightly move the block of steering column switches slightly up - this will provide the necessary touch and, as a result, contact.

If the signal does not work after bridging the wires, then we carefully check the integrity of the wires throughout electrical circuit.