Bridges on UAZ. Adjusting the "civil" axles of a UAZ car How the UAZ front axle works

The design of the front axle of the UAZ 469 differs from its rear counterpart in some design features. In addition to the bridge beam and differential, the unit includes equal speeds at the corners and a gearbox. The axle housing is connected to the ball joint using a flange. The hinge body is secured by a pair of pins. The gearbox cover with axle and brake shield is bolted to the frame.

Description

To reduce the degree of wear of the assembly parts, it is recommended to turn off the front axle of the UAZ 469 when moving on a hard surface, the design of which will be discussed below. The hubs on the front wheels should also be deactivated. To do this, you need to remove the caps and unscrew the bolts from the shaft socket. As a result, the coupling is installed in a position corresponding to the annular groove and the end of the coupling. After installing this element in the required position, begin to tighten the protective cap.

The front wheel is activated by securely fixing the bolts. The bridge design scheme is focused on synchronously turning on and off the drive of both wheels.

Front axle structure of UAZ 469

The crankcase, main gear and differential correspond to the elements of the rear counterpart. The 469B modification is equipped with an oil deflector ring and a right-hand thread with the “P” stamp. A ball joint is attached to the axle housing. It is secured with five bolts. Bushings and pins are pressed into it. In addition, the support contains the wheel gear housing cover and the steering knuckle housing. The trunnion and brake shield are attached to the locking element using six bolts.

The pivot appendage of the rotary cam is mounted with an interference fit, the value of which is adjustable from 0.02 to 0.10 mm. To prevent rotation of this element, locking pins are provided in the design. The position is adjusted using shims installed in the upper part, between the knuckle lever. In addition, the position can be corrected by installing spacers in the side and bottom of the part.

Peculiarities

The design of the front axle of the UAZ 469, the photo of which is presented above, assumes the presence of an oil seal, which is responsible for retaining lubricant in the housing and protecting the steering cam from contamination. The element consists of an inner ring, a partition, a felt gasket and an outer block. The oil seal is secured to the frame using bolts.

Prevention of the lubricant mixture from flowing from the main gear housing into the rotary cam is provided by an internal self-clamping rubber seal in a metal cage. The upper pivot elements and the ball joint are lubricated through special grease fittings. The lower elements are lubricated by a substance coming from the support by gravity.

Hinge

The front axle of the UAZ 469 includes a hinged angular velocity stabilization system. Its design guarantees stability of the angular velocities of the drive and follower shafts. In this case, the distance and deviation between them do not play a role. The hinge itself consists of a pair of forks, in the curved sockets of which four balls are placed. In the central compartments of these parts there is a fifth alignment ball that serves to center the forks.

Longitudinal movement of the hinge is prevented by a ball bearing and a safety washer. The driving inner fork interacts with the differential gear axle shaft. The main gear of the wheel reducer and a roller-type bearing with a lock nut are mounted on the edge of the outer driven fork. The internal engagement of the element occurs through a bolted connection. The driven part is assembled with a shaft on a roller bearing and a bronze bushing located in the middle of the axle. At the end of the shaft there is a device for deactivating the front wheels of the machine. It consists of a movable coupling, spring, balls and bolts. The external protrusions connect the part to the internal splines of the flange, fixed with bolts on the hub.

Gearbox device

469 gearbox design is almost identical to the wheel gearbox rear axle. Among the differences between these elements is the method of installation and fastening of the drive gear, as well as the design of the ball bearing placed in a special glass socket. The drive is mounted on the splines of the driven articulated fork. It is fixed with the bearings by means of a special nut, which is opened into the groove of the shaft after tightening.

The support washer is located between the roller bearing and the gear. These parts are not interchangeable with analogues rear gearboxes. Maintenance is the same for both units.

Front axle structure of UAZ 469: connection diagram

Assembly and connection of the part in question is carried out in the following order:

1. The bushing is inserted into the knuckle axle using the pressing method. It should be flush with the end of the seat. The sleeve is then rotated and adjusted with a special brooch to the required diameter.
2. Limitation of the movement of the hinge at identical angular longitudinal velocities is ensured by washers installed in the trunnion and ball joint. Their location should be directed with the lubrication grooves towards the hinge. The fixing washer is attached by punching in several places at points evenly distributed around the circumference.
3. Replacing the pin bushings involves pressing and screwing them to a diameter of 25 mm, with the ability to pass through each bushing.
4. When installing the hinge, lubricant is poured into the support.
5. The design of the front axle on the UAZ 469 involves adjusting the required axial tensions using adjusting inserts, which determine the location of the bushings and the ball joint itself. A minimum of five gaskets are used. The total thickness indicators at the top and bottom should not have a difference of more than 0.1 mm.
6. Before assembling the oil seal, the felt ring is soaked in warm engine oil.

After assembling the front axle, it is tested on a stand in a static state and under load. This position is created by synchronously braking the axle shafts. If the unit is assembled correctly, there will be no increased noise of the unit, no oil leakage in the oil seals and cuffs, as well as joints.

Maintenance

The design of the front axle of the UAZ 469, the diagram of which is given above, provides for a number of preventive and adjustment operations during operation. Among them:

• Periodic tightening of threaded connections.
• Checking the kingpins for gaps.
• Bearing adjustments.
• Repairing gear clutch points.
• Checking alignment.
• Regular lubrication of rubbing parts according to the table of instructions for the use of lubricants.

A visual check of the front axle structure of the UAZ 469 involves inspection steering knuckles for the integrity and suitability of the adjusting screws, limiting rotary stops, as well as the reliability of the stopper of these elements.

The design diagram of the unit under consideration is designed for a maximum angle of rotation of both wheels in the corresponding positions of about 27 degrees. An increase in this indicator indicates deformation of the articulated rotary cams, and this significantly complicates repairs.

Adjustment

The design of the front axle of the UAZ 469, the photo of which is shown above, in factory conditions involves adjusting the steering pin with pre-tension. In this case, the same number of corrective shims are installed in the upper and lower parts of the assembly.

The design of the UAZ 469 front axle pivot differs in that special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the tightening mode of these elements. The fixation weakens as a result of gradual wear of the rubbing parts. Gaps appear along the axes between the pivot ends and the support rings.

Repair

The front 469, the design of which is discussed above, may sometimes require repair. To repair, you will need to remove the part and disassemble it. This process works as follows:

• The brake pads are placed on the rear wheels of the car.
• The nuts and other fastening systems of the block are unscrewed.
• The rod is unhooked from the bipod, after which the nuts on the shock absorbers and the ball pin are removed.
• The fastening of the front springs with pads is dismantled.
• The front part of the car is lifted over the frame, after which the unit is dismantled.

The front axle of the UAZ 469, the device described above, requires professional service. But if you have the appropriate skills, you can manipulate this block on your own.

TIMKEN

Until July 1989, civil axles were equipped with a main pair with a gear ratio of 5.125 (41 teeth), now - with a gear ratio of 4.625 (37 teeth), i.e., more “fast” but less “powerful”. You can find both in stores. You will most likely have to replace the “new” with the “old” main pair when installing very large wheels. It is recommended to replace the main pairs only as a complete set (in the front and rear axles), otherwise the front axle will have to be turned on only in mud, snow, sand, etc., so as not to damage the transfer case or spoil the tires. How to determine the gear ratio? You need to twist the cardan by hand and count the revolutions of the wheel. For example, 46 revolutions of the cardan - 10 wheels = pair 4.6, etc.

Bridge front Timken UAZ

Possible malfunctions of the front axle, their causes and methods of elimination

The main gear and differential of the front axle of the UAZ 469 and UAZ 3151 are similar in design to the rear axle of the UAZ. All instructions for maintenance and repair of the rear axle also apply to the front axle.

Rice. 1 Steering knuckle:

a - signal groove; b - pointer; I — right steering knuckle; II — left steering knuckle; III — wheel release clutch; IV — wheel release clutch (optional); c - wheels are disabled; d - wheels are switched on; 1 — steering knuckle lever; 2 — axle shaft housing; 3- oil seal; 4.20 - gaskets; 5 — ball joint; 6 — steering knuckle body; 7 — support washer; 8 — overlay; 9 — king pin; 10 — grease fitting; 11 — locking pin; 12 - axle; 13 — wheel hub; 14 — leading flange; 15 - coupling; 16 — coupling bolt; 17 — retainer ball; 18 — protective cap; 19 — pin bushing; 21 — inner race; 22 — ring-partition; 23 — outer ring; 24 — rubber sealing ring; 25 — felt sealing ring; 26 — thrust washers; 27 — rotation limiting bolt; 28 — wheel rotation limiting stop; 29 — ring; 30 — driving splined bushing; 31 — connecting splined sleeve; 32 — drive bushing; 33 — cap; 34 - cover; 35 - cuff; 36 — pin; 37 - switch; 38 - ball; 39, 41 — springs; 40 - gasket; 42 — driven bushing; 43 — extension spring; 44 — body; 45 — locking ring

Additionally, the steering knuckles are serviced and repaired (Fig. 1)

Maintenance

When servicing the front drive axle, check and, if necessary, adjust the tightening of the king pin bearings, wheel toe-in and maximum wheel rotation angles, check and tighten the steering knuckle lever fastening, wash and change the lubricant in the steering knuckles. When inspecting the steering knuckles, pay attention to the serviceability of the wheel rotation stops 28 (Fig. 1), the adjusting bolts 27 and the reliability of their locking.

Check and adjust the axial clearance of the king pins on the vehicle in the following order:
1. Brake the car with the parking brake or put chocks under the rear wheels.
2. Raise the front axle with a jack.
3. Unscrew the wheel nuts and remove it.
4. Unscrew the bolts securing the ball joint oil seal and move the oil seal.

Rice. 2 Checking the kingpin adjustment:

1- top pad; 2 — adjusting gasket; 3 — king pin; 4 - bottom pad

5. Check the axial clearance of the pins by shaking the steering knuckle body up and down with your hands (Fig. 2).
6. Unscrew the nuts of the studs securing the lever 1 (see Fig. 1) of the steering knuckle or the bolts securing the upper lining 1 (see Fig. 2) and remove the lever or the upper lining of the king pin.
7. Remove the thin (0.1 mm) shim and reinstall the lever or trim.
8. Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the lower lining of the kingpin 4, remove the thin (0.1 mm) adjusting shim and install the kingpin lining in place.
To maintain joint alignment, remove shims of equal thickness from top and bottom.
Check the build results. If the gap is not eliminated, readjust by removing thicker shims (0.15 mm).
Excessive wear of the pins 9 and bushings 19 (see Fig. 1) in diameter causes a violation of the camber angle of the wheels, their “wobbling” when driving and uneven wear tires In this case, replace the worn parts.

Rice. 3 Checking the maximum wheel rotation angles

Check the maximum wheel rotation angles on a special stand (Fig. 3). The angle of rotation of the right wheel to the right, and the left wheel to the left should be no more than 27°. Make adjustments using bolt 27 (see Fig. 1).
Adjust wheel alignment by changing the length of the tie rod. Before adjusting, make sure there are no gaps in the steering rod joints and hub bearings; then, loosening the lock nuts (having right-hand and left-hand threads), rotate the adjusting fitting to set the required wheel toe-in value.

Rice. 4 Checking wheel alignment

Wheel toe-in at normal tire pressure should be such that dimension A (Fig. 4), measured along the center line of the side surface of the tires at the front, is 1.5-3.0 mm smaller size In the back. When adjustment is complete, tighten the lock nuts. Tightening torque 103-127 Nm (10.5-13 kgf/m). Wheel alignment can be checked using the model 2182 GARO ruler.

Repair

To carry out repairs, remove the front drive axle from the vehicle and disassemble it. After disassembling and washing the parts, check their condition and determine their suitability for further work. Carry out repairs to the crankcase, main gear and differential in accordance with the instructions given in the “Rear Axle” section. If the axle housing is bent, straighten it in a cold state. Replace worn parts of the steering knuckles with new ones, using the data in table. 3.9.

Remove the front axle in the following order:
1. Place chocks under the rear wheels of the car.
2. Disconnect the hydraulic lines on the left and right side members. brake system from a flexible hose going to the brake mechanisms of the front wheels. Unscrew the nuts securing the flexible hoses and remove them. 3. Unscrew the nuts securing the lower ends of the shock absorbers.
4. Remove the bolts securing the front propeller shaft to the drive gear flange.
5. Unscrew and unscrew the bipod ball pin nut, disconnecting the rod from the bipod.
6. Unscrew the nuts securing the stepladders of the front springs, remove the pads, stepladders and pads. Lift the front of the car by the frame.

Note!!! When removing a spring suspension axle, perform steps 1-5. Then disconnect the stabilizer 16 (see Fig. 196) lateral stability from the trailing arms 1 of the suspension, the transverse link 2 from the bracket 11 on the frame, the rear ends of the trailing arms 1 from the brackets 5 on the frame.
Dismantling the front axle

Disassemble the front axle in the following order:
1. Place the axle on the stand, unscrew the wheel nuts and remove the wheels.
2. Undo the cotter pin and unscrew the nut securing the bipod link pin to the steering knuckle arm and remove the bipod link.
3. Unscrew the screws and remove the brake drums.
4. Remove the wheel release clutches.
5. Straighten the bent edges of the lock washer, unscrew the nut and locknut, remove the lock washer and the inner ring with the rollers of the outer bearing of the right and left wheel hubs.
6. Remove the wheel hubs.
7. Unscrew the bolts securing the brake shields, remove the shields, steering knuckle axles and take out the steering knuckle hinges.
8. Unscrew and unscrew the nuts securing the pins and remove the steering linkage rod.
9. Remove the bolts securing the ball joint to the axle housing. Remove the wheel turn stops and press the ball joints out of the axle housings.
10. Unscrew the nuts securing the steering arm to the steering knuckle housing. Remove the lever and shim set.
11. Unscrew the bolts securing the upper lining of the kingpin of the other steering knuckle and remove the lining with a set of shims.
12. Unscrew the bolts securing the lower linings of the kingpins and remove the linings with a set of shims.
13. Unscrew the bolts securing the ball joint oil seal and remove the ball joint oil seal.

Rice. 5 Kingpin puller

14. Press out the king pins using the tool shown in Fig. 5, and remove the steering knuckle housing.

Disassemble the steering knuckle without removing the front axle from the vehicle in the following order:
1. Place chocks under the rear wheels of the car.
2. Jack up the front wheel on the side that requires disassembly.
3. Perform the operations indicated above in paragraphs 2-10 of this chapter.
4. Unscrew the nuts securing the swing arm or the bolts securing the upper kingpin cover to the body and remove the lever or cover with a set of shims.
5. Unscrew the bolts securing the lower kingpin lining and remove the lining with a set of shims.
6. Remove the bolts securing the ball joint oil seal.
7. Press out the king pins using a tool and remove the steering knuckle housing.

Disassembly and assembly of constant velocity joints

Disassemble the hinges in the following order:
1. Mark with paint the relative positions of the hinge pins.
2. Open your fists by tapping the fork of your short fist on a wooden stand.
3.Grip the joint in a vise by the long fist with the short fist facing up.

Rice. 6 Disassembling the hinge

4. Turn the short fist towards one of the leading (peripheral) balls. If the opposite ball does not come out of the grooves, press or hit the short fist with a copper hammer (Fig. 6). Be careful when doing this, as one of the balls may fly out of the joint with high speed.
5. Remove the remaining joint balls. After selecting new balls of increased size (repair) or replacing one of the knuckles, assemble the hinge.

Assemble the hinges in the following order:
1. Place a long fist in a vise in a vertical position.
2. Insert the center ball.
3. Place a short fist on the central ball so that the marks marked with paint coincide and, turning it from side to side, install the three leading (peripheral) balls in turn.
4. Spread the fists 10-12 mm and turn the short fist to the maximum angle away from the free grooves, install the fourth ball in the grooves.
5. Rotate the short fist into a vertical position.
The tension on the hinge balls should be such that the moment required to rotate the fist 10-15° in all directions from the vertical with another fist clamped in a vice is 30-60 Nm (300-600 kgf/cm).
The difference in the moments of rotation of the fist in two mutually perpendicular directions of one hinge should not exceed 9.8 Nm (100 kgf/cm). To obtain the required tension and ensure proper assembly, the balls must be sorted into 9 groups.

Dimensions of the diameters of the leading balls of the constant velocity joint in mm:

I……25.32-25.34 VI……25.42-25.44 II……25.34-25.36 VI……25.44-25.46 III……25.36-25.38 VIII……25.46-25.48 IV……25.38-25.40 IX……25.48-25.50 V……25.40-25.42

The diameter of the central ball is 26.988-0.05 mm. Each hinge must be assembled with balls of one group or two adjacent groups.
For example: two balls with a diameter of 25.41 mm and two balls with a diameter of 25.43 mm. When assembling balls of the same size, be sure to place them diametrically opposite to one another. The difference in diameters of two pairs of balls of one joint is allowed no more than 0.04 mm.
After assembly, run the joint on the stand for 2 minutes at a rotation speed of 4.8 s-1 (300 min-1) with an angle change from 0 to 30°.
When running in, lubricate the balls and grooves according to the instructions in the lubrication table.

Front axle assembly

Reassemble the front axle in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following:
1. Press the bushing into the steering knuckle axle flush with the end of the socket under the thrust washer. After pressing, unfold the sleeve and iron it with a brooch to a diameter of 32 +0.34 +0.17 mm.
2. Limit the longitudinal movements of the constant velocity joint with thrust washers, one of which is installed in the ball joint and the other in the axle.

Rice. 7 Installing the thrust washer:

1 — thrust washer; 2 - axle; 3 — ball joint; 4 - bushing

The oil grooves of the thrust washers should face the joint. To secure the washer in the socket, spread it at 3-4 points evenly spaced around the circumference. The size from the plane of the thrust washer 1 (Fig. 7) to the flange of the trunnion 2 should be 7 +0.08-0.26 mm, from the plane of the washer 1 to the center of the ball joint 3 - 48.2 + 0.38 mm.
3. When replacing the bushings of 4 pins in the ball joint, expand them after pressing to a diameter of 25 +0.030 +0.008 mm. A caliber with a diameter of 24.995 mm must fit into both bushings at the same time.
4. When installing the hinge, apply lubricant to the ball joint according to the lubrication table.
5. Lubricate the pins and pin bushings with liquid lubricant before assembly.

Rice. 8 Selection of shims:

1 — ball joint; 2 — support washer; 3 — kingpin; 4 — adjusting shims; 5 — steering knuckle housing

Select the number of spacers to obtain certain axial interference in the pin bushings depending on size B (Fig. 8), consisting of the sum of the dimensions of the steering knuckle and shims, and size A, consisting of the sum of the dimensions of the ball joint, support washers and pins. The number of gaskets must be at least five.
Take measurements under a load of 1.6 kN (160 kgf). Dimension A should be 0.02-0.10 mm larger than dimension B. Install the adjusting shims at the top and bottom on the ends of the steering knuckle housing. If there are an even number of gaskets of equal thickness, install the latter on top and bottom in equal quantities.
With an even number of gaskets, but different thicknesses, or with an odd number of gaskets, the difference between the total thickness of the upper and lower gaskets should not exceed 0.1 mm.
6. When assembling and installing the ball joint oil seal, soak its inner felt ring in warm motor oil.
7. After assembly, check the front axle on a stand under load and without it. The load is created by simultaneous braking of both axle shafts.
A properly assembled front axle should not have increased noise and heating, as well as oil leakage through cuffs and seals, covers and bolted joints

Timken UAZ rear axle

Possible malfunctions of the rear axle, their causes and methods of elimination

The rear axle of UAZ 469 and UAZ 3151 requires maintenance such as maintaining the oil level in the UAZ crankcase and timely replacing it, checking seals, timely detection and eliminating axial clearances in the final drive gears. Periodically clean the safety valve and tighten all fasteners.
If the oil in the crankcase is heavily contaminated or there are metal particles in it, wash the crankcase with kerosene before adding fresh oil. To flush, pour 1-1.5 liters of kerosene into the crankcase; lift the wheels, start the engine and let
Let it run for 1.0-1.5 minutes, then drain the kerosene and fill with fresh oil.

Rice. 1 Rear axle:

The image is reduced. Click to see original.

1 - safety valve; 2 — differential bearing; 3,8 — shims; 4 — rear bearing of the drive gear; 5* — adjusting ring; 6 - oil removal ring; 7 - nut; 9- drive gear; 10 — front bearing drive gear; 11 — thrust washer of the semi-axial gear; 12 - driven gear.
(* Not installed since 1991)

Axial play of the drive gear of the fixed gear is not allowed. Check the clearance by rocking the drive gear by the driveshaft mounting flange. If an axial play of the drive gear of more than 0.05 mm appears during vehicle operation, tighten nut 7 (1). Tightening torque - 167-206 Nm (17-21 kgf/m). If the gap does not disappear, make adjustments as indicated in the chapter “Assembly and adjustment of rear axle units?”.
Axial play of the main drive driven gear is not allowed. Check it by moving the gear through the oil filler hole. To eliminate the gap, add sets of shims of equal thickness between the ends of the differential and bearings.
Do not add shim sets of different thicknesses or install them on the same side of the driven gear because this will lead to disruption of the engagement of worn-out gears and their rapid breakdown.

Repair

Rear axle disassembly

Disassemble the bridge in the following order:

Rice. 2 Installation of the bridge on the stand

1. Place the bridge on the stand (Fig. 2), unscrew the oil filler and oil drain plugs and drain the oil.

2. Unscrew the bolts securing the axle shafts and, using them, remove the axle shafts.

3. Unscrew the nuts and bolts securing the cover and crankcase, carefully separate the bridge into two parts. Remove the gasket.

4. Remove the differential and driven gear assembly from the housing.

5. Remove the main drive gear. Without disassembling the axle, it is impossible to remove the drive gear, since when pressing the gear and bearing assembly out of the axle housing, the rear bearing (with cylindrical rollers) will rest against the driven gear.

Rice. 3 Pressing out the drive gear

To remove the drive gear, unscrew and unscrew the nut on the shank, remove the washer and flange, unscrew the bolts and remove the drive gear front bearing cap. Remove the oil removal ring and use a tool to press the drive gear (Fig. 3) with the bearing assembly out of the crankcase.

6. Disassemble the differential in the following order:

unscrew the bolts securing the driven gear to the gearbox; remove the driven gear;
unscrew the bolts securing the halves of the satellite box;
Disconnect the right half of the gearbox from the left and remove the differential gears, pinion axles and support washers.

Assessment of the technical condition of parts

After disassembling the bridge, thoroughly rinse the parts in kerosene and inspect. Replace gears with scoring and chipping on the teeth.

Rice. 4 Pressing out the outer ring of the differential bearing

Rice. 5 Removing the inner race of the differential bearing

Rice. 6 Removing the rear bearing from the drive gear

Rice. 7 Removing the front bearing from the drive gear

Replace bearings that are worn. If the bearings and associated parts do not require replacement, then do not press out the bearing rings. Press out the outer rings of the bearings (Fig. 4) of the differential from the crankcase and cover and remove the inner rings (Fig. 5) of these bearings using tools. Removal of the rear and front drive gear bearings is shown in Fig. 6 and fig. 7 The end of the neck on which the rear bearing is pressed is open, therefore, press it out only for replacement. When dismantling the axle, do not disassemble the inner and outer rings of the differential and drive gear bearings, and when reassembling, install the bearings that do not need to be replaced in their original places.
The oil removal ring must have smooth ends. If necessary, sand it to a thickness of at least 5 mm.
Cardan flange. The end of the flange associated with the oil removal ring must be smooth. If necessary, sand it to a height of at least 53 mm.
Bridge housing. Remove all roughness and burrs from the seating and adjacent surfaces of the crankcase. Clean the oil channels.
Differentials and axle shafts. Replace thrust washers, pinion axles, pinions, axle gears and pinion boxes with scoring and severe wear. Replace satellites and semi-axial gears as a set. Replace the side gear thrust washer if its thickness is less than 1.2 mm. If the ends of the satellite box are worn, it is permissible to install washers increased in thickness by 0.1 mm or 0.2 mm.
When repairing the rear and front axles, use the data in table. 3.7 and 3.8.

Assembly and adjustment of rear axle units

Assemble the differential in the following order:

1. Before assembling the differential, lubricate the axle gears, pinions, thrust washers and pinion axles with transmission oil.

2. Install thrust washers on the journals of the axle gears.

3. Install the axle gear with thrust washer assembly into the left gear box.

4. Install the satellites on the axis of the split cross.

5. Install the detachable crosspiece (Fig. 8) with satellites in the left satellite box.

Rice. 9 Installation of satellite boxes according to marks

6. Install the axle gear with thrust washer assembly into the right gear box. Holding the axle shaft gear, install the right satellite cup onto the left one so that the marks (Fig. 9) (serial numbers) of both cups are aligned.

7. Connect the halves with bolts and tighten them. Tightening torque 32-40 Nm (3.2-4.0 kgf).

8. Install the main drive driven gear onto the gearbox, aligning the bolt holes. Install the bolts and tighten them. Tightening torque 98-137 Nm (10-14 kgf/m).

For the assembled differential, the axle gears must be rotated using a splined mandrel from a force of no more than 59 N (6 kgf) applied over a radius of 80 mm.

Adjust the differential bearings (if they are replaced) in the following order:

Rice. 10 Pre-pressure of the inner rings of the differential bearings

1. Press the inner rings of the bearings (Fig. 10) of the differential onto the journals of the assembled differential so that there is a gap of 3.5-4.0 mm between the ends of the gear box and the ends of the inner rings of the bearings.

Rice. 11 Rolling differential bearing rollers

2. Install the differential assembly into the crankcase, then the gasket and crankcase cover and, turning the cover by the casing, roll the bearings so that the rollers take the correct position (Fig. 11). Then use bolts and nuts to evenly connect the cover to the crankcase.

3. Unscrew the bolts again, carefully remove the cover, remove the differential from the crankcase and use a feeler gauge to measure the gaps A and A1 (Fig. 13) between the ends of the inner rings of the bearings and the gearbox.

4. Select a package of gaskets with a thickness calculated according to the formula:
s = A + A1 + 0.1, where: s thickness of the gasket package, mm;
A and A1 - gaps between the ends of the inner rings of bearings and the satellite box, mm;
0.1 - constant value (to ensure preload), mm.

5. Remove the differential bearing inner races. Divide the selected pack of gaskets approximately in half. Install the gaskets on the journals of the satellite gearbox and press the inner rings of the bearings until they stop.

Assemble and adjust the drive gear bearings in the following order:

Rice. 14 Punching the end of the shank after pressing the bearing:

A - place of core

Rice. 15 Installing the spacer and shims for the front drive gear bearing

1. Press the bearings onto the drive gear. After pressing on the rear support bearing with cylindrical rollers, open the end of the shank onto which it is pressed (Fig. 14). Place the spacer sleeve (Fig. 15) and adjusting shims for the front bearing (double-row bevel) of the drive gear between the inner rings.

2. Install adjusting ring 5 (see Fig. 1) of drive gear 9 (not installed since 1991).

Rice. 17 Checking the lateral clearance in the meshing of the main gears

2. Measure the lateral clearance between the teeth of the drive and driven gears, which should be 0.2-0.6 mm. Take measurements on the drive gear flange at a radius of 40 mm (Fig. 17).
Adjust the side clearance by moving shims 3 (see Fig. 1) from one side of the differential box to the other. If you remove shims from the side of the driven gear, the gap in the mesh increases, but if you add shims, the gap decreases. Rearrange the gaskets without changing their quantity, as this will disrupt the tension of the differential bearings.

Rice. 18 Contact patch of final drive gears:

I — forward side; II - side reverse; 1 - correct contact in the meshing of gears when checking under a light load; 2 - contact at the top of the tooth (to correct it, move the drive gear towards the driven one); 3 — contact on the tooth root (to correct it, the drive gear should be moved away from the driven gear); 4 — contact at the narrow end of the tooth (to correct it, move the driven gear away from the driving gear); 5 - contact at the wide end of the tooth (to correct it, move the driven gear towards the driving gear)

3. On axles that have an adjusting ring 5 (see Fig. 1), check the engagement of the gears along the contact patch. To do this, paint the teeth of the driven gear with paint. Keep in mind that very liquid paint spreads, and too thick paint cannot be squeezed out of the spaces between the teeth. Then, using the axle shafts, slow down the driven gear and rotate the drive gear in both directions until a clear contact patch is identified. In Fig. Figure 18 shows typical contact pattern positions on driven gear teeth and how to correct improper contact. Move the drive gear by installing adjusting ring 5 (see Fig. 1) of a different thickness. Move the driven gear by rearranging the gaskets of the 3 differential bearings.

Note!!! Perform the specified check of gear engagement on axles with final drives.
Rear axle assembly

Assemble the rear axle after adjusting the gear engagement in the following order:

1. Install the gasket pack between the end of the front pinion bearing cap and the crankcase. The thickness of the package should be 1.3 times greater than the gap (Fig. 19) between the ends of the cover and crankcase. If necessary, increase the thickness of the bag by 1.4 times.

2. Install the drive gear front bearing cap and collar assembly and secure with bolts.

3. Install the flange and washer. Tighten nut 7 (see Fig. 1) as far as possible so that the slots in it coincide with the holes in the gear shank and secure with a cotter pin. Tightening torque 167-206 Nm (17-21 kgf/m). Do not unscrew the nut to match the groove and the hole for the cotter pin.

4. Install the differential with the driven gear and bearings assembled into the axle housing.

5. Install a gasket between the crankcase and the cover.

6. Install the crankcase cover so that both spring pads are at the top of the axle. Connect the cover and crankcase using bolts and nuts.

7. While turning the drive gear, check for any binding or snagging in the assembled axle. After assembling the bridge, check its heating while the vehicle is moving. If the crankcase gets very hot (over 90 °C), check that the bearings are adjusted correctly

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Tags: Timken bridge repair manual, UAZ bridge repair,

For UAZ cars different models and at different times, many versions of bridges were installed at the plant. Let's try to figure this out...

UAZ Timken bridge (civilian or collective farm)

This is a split type bridge, that is, a bridge consisting of two halves. This type can also be classified as geared or portal. From the factory, civilian axles are installed on UAZ trucks of the cargo range (loaf, flatbed,) as well as on passenger cars of the UAZ-3151 (469) range.

Gear ratios of UAZ military bridges

Gear ratio of military axles 5.38 (=2.77*1.94 - gear ratios respectively, main and final drives) - more high-torque, but slower than conventional axles.

Characteristics of a military bridge

• Ground clearance: 300 mm (with tires Ya-192 215/90 R15 (31 x 8.5 R15)
• Track: 1445 mm
• Track gear axles UAZ Bars: 1600 mm
• Weight of the UAZ front military axle: 140 kg
• Weight of the UAZ rear military axle: 122 kg

Diagram of a UAZ gear (military) axle

UAZ rear axle with final drive:

1 – main gear housing cover; 2 – differential bearing; 3,13,49 – adjusting shims; 4 – sealing gasket; 5.7 – drive gear bearings; 6.15 – adjusting rings; 8.42 – cuffs; 9 – flange;
10 – nut; 11 – mud deflector; 12 – ring; 14 – spacer sleeve;
16 – main gear drive gear; 17 – satellite; 18 – right axle shaft; 19 – final drive housing; 20.29 – oil deflectors; 21 – axle bearing; 22,26,40 – retaining rings; 23 – sealing gasket of the final drive housing; 24 – final drive housing cover; 25 – bearing; 27 – brake shield; 28 – brake drum; 30 – wheel mounting bolt; 31 – axle; 32 – hub bearing; 33.41 – gaskets; 34 – lock washer; 35 – leading flange; 36 – hub bearing nut; 37 – lock washer; 38 – bushing; 39 – final drive driven shaft; 43 – driven shaft bearing; 44 – final drive driven gear; 45 – special nut; 46.50 – drain plugs;
47 – final drive drive gear; 48 – right cup of the satellite box; 51 – main gear housing; 52 – axle gear washer;
53 – axle gear; 54 – satellite axis; 55 – driven gear of the main gear; 56 – left cup of the satellite box; 57 – left axle shaft

Steering knuckle of the UAZ front axle with final drive:

a – signal groove;
I – right steering knuckle; II – left steering knuckle; III – wheel release clutch (for an alternative design, see Fig. 180, IV); 1 – oil seal; 2 – ball joint; 3 – steering knuckle hinge; 4 – gasket; 5 – grease nipple; 6 – kingpin; 7 – overlay; 8 – steering knuckle body; 9 – pin bushing; 10 – bearing; 11 – driven shaft of final drive; 12 – hub; 13 – leading flange; 14 – coupling; 15 – locking ball; 16 – protective cap; 17 – coupling bolt; 18 – axle; 19 – lock nut;
20.23 – support washers; 21 – final drive drive gear; 22 – locking pin; 24 – rubber sealing ring; 25 – thrust washer; 26 – axle shaft casing; 27 – rotation limitation bolt; 28 – wheel rotation limiter; 29 – steering knuckle lever

Construction of a military bridge (photo)

Video replacement and adjustment of the main pair on the UAZ military bridge

Bridges Spicer UAZ Patriot and Hunter

The Spicer is a non-split, solid bridge.

In the early 90s for the new UAZ-3160 car at Ulyanovsk automobile plant Spicer-type drive axles with a one-piece crankcase were developed.

The absence of a connector in the transverse plane of the bridge gives the structure high rigidity, the unloaded connection between the cover and the crankcase reduces the likelihood of leakage at the joint, and the placement of the main gear and differential in a single crankcase ensures high precision of engagement and more favorable conditions for the operation of bearings.

• Spicer axle width for UAZ Patriot - 1600 mm
• Spicer axle width for UAZ Hunter - 1445 mm

Spicer axle differential

UAZ front pillar

If we consider the design of the front axle of the UAZ 469 from the point of view of the design of the middle part of the bridge beam, differential and main gear, we can draw an analogy with the rear drive axle. The front axle differs primarily in the design features of the wheel steering drive, which includes a gearbox and constant velocity universal joints (see figure). A flange is used to connect the axle housing (1) to the ball joint (3). The hinge body (5) is attached to the support using two pins (4). A gearbox cover (6) is attached to this body with bolts, on which a trunnion (11) and a brake shield (12) are installed.

To reduce wear on axle elements and reduce fuel consumption when driving on hard road surfaces, it is recommended to disable not only the UAZ front axle, but also the front wheel hubs. For this purpose, the protective caps are removed and the bolts are unscrewed from the shaft hole. As a result, the coupling is installed in such a position that the annular signal groove on its surface is located in the same plane as the end of the flange. After the coupling is installed in the desired position, you can begin to tighten the protective cap.

Enable front wheel carried out by securely tightening the bolts. The bridge design provides for strictly simultaneous switching on and off for both wheels. In order to turn on the UAZ 469 axle, you must first turn on both wheels.

Repairing the front axle used on a UAZ 469 vehicle requires knowledge of the design of the wheel gearbox, the design of which is similar to the wheel gearbox of the rear axle. The main difference lies in the mounting and fastening of the drive gear, as well as design features ball bearing installed in a special cup.

About maintenance

Repair and maintenance of the front axle of the UAZ 469 during operation requires, first of all, periodic checking and adjustment of the following parameters:

• threaded connections that need to be tightened from time to time;
• checking pivot joints for gaps;
• bearing adjustment;
• gear clutch repair;
• toe check;
• Compliance with the lubricant table requirements.

A visual inspection of the steering knuckles involves a thorough inspection of the components for serviceability of the adjusting bolts, wheel turn stops and checking the reliability of locking of these elements. The design of the front axle provides for a maximum rotation angle of the left and right wheels in the corresponding directions, which is 28° for the UAZ 469 and 27° for the UAZ 469B. A higher value of this parameter causes damage to the steering knuckle joints, making repairs much more difficult.

Patriot front strut

At the factory, the steering knuckle pins are adjusted with pretension. In this case, the same number of special gaskets is installed below and above. During operation of the bridge, special attention must be paid to the state of tightening of the pins. The tightening becomes loose as a result of wear of the rubbing surfaces. Axial gaps appear between the support rings and the ends of the pins, which must be eliminated by removing the same number of spacers in the upper and lower parts. The total thickness of the gaskets on top and bottom should be almost the same, the maximum permissible difference is 0.1 mm.

Unplanned front axle repairs may be required if the front wheel alignment is not properly monitored. Not only the handling and stability of the car on the road, but also the degree of tire wear largely depends on these angles. In order to check the correctness of the angles, the machine is placed on a horizontal surface. The drive front axle design provides for the following wheel alignment angles:

• longitudinal slope of the kingpins - 3°±30′;
• wheel camber - 1°30'±15'.

Values ​​of the lateral slope angles of the king pin:

• for UAZ 469 - 8°;
• for UAZ 469B - 5°30′.

Wheel alignment is checked depending on how worn the tires are. In order to adjust the toe, the machine is placed on a horizontal surface, the wheels are turned in the direction of forward movement. The toe-in value, shown in the photo as the difference between distances A and B, can range from 1.5 to 3 mm. To check and adjust the horizontal toe, it is necessary to loosen the lock nuts with left and right threads, and then change the length of the steering tie rod.

Repair features

Repair of UAZ front suspension

Before performing work, it is necessary to remove the front axle from the machine and disassemble it. Repair includes washing parts, assessing their condition and suitability for subsequent use. The crankcase, differential and main gear are repaired in the same way as the rear axle elements. In case of deformation of the axle housing, restoration is carried out only in a cold state.

The front axle of the UAZ 469 is dismantled in the following order.

1. Chocks are installed under the rear wheels of the car.
2. The brake system pipes installed on the side members are disconnected from the flexible hose connected to brake mechanisms wheels Unscrew and remove the nuts that secure the hoses.
3. Remove the nuts holding the lower parts of the shock absorbers.
4. Unscrew the bolts that connect the driveshaft to the drive gear flange.
5. Disconnect the rod from the bipod and remove the nut on its ball pin.
6. Unscrew the nuts securing the stepladders of the front springs, after which the linings, linings and stepladders are dismantled.
7. The front part of the UAZ 469 is lifted by the frame.

If the bridge is equipped with a spring suspension, steps 1-5 are performed, after which the anti-roll bar is disconnected from the trailing arms of the suspension, and the transverse link and trailing arms- from the corresponding brackets.

They trust only specialists, for example from M-Service. But the work of repairing the front axle with the UAZ-452 (Loaf) and UAZ 469 (Kozlik) is not difficult, so the average car enthusiast can do it himself if necessary. The designs of these UAZ models are identical, but there are also differences in the mounting of the springs and suspension. However, they do not particularly affect the work. To repair the front axle of UAZ vehicles, you do not need any special tools.

The last year of the passing century. At the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant (UAZ) he was remembered for the fact that the Technical Council of the plant approved new object production - "UAZ - 3160" from the family of light-duty trucks.

We discussed this project in the hall of the plant’s new design center (spacious and bright), built quite recently following the example of VAZ and GAZ, which followed the example of global car manufacturers and understood that it is impossible to move forward without a change of models, and here freedom of design maneuver is necessary.

For the hot season passenger car there must be specialized summer tires. If you save on them and continue to use bald or winter tires, then the car, due to poor controllability and increased braking trajectory, can easily get into an accident.


And as soon as the driver notices that the rubber has worn down to a certain level (there are special risks on the tire for this purpose), then this will clearly indicate one thing - the old set of tires needs to be removed and replaced with a new one.

The UAZ automobile plant has been producing several models for decades. One of these models is the UAZ Hunter, which is a modernized variation of the UAZ 469 model, produced in 1972. The Hunter version itself has been produced from 2003 to today.

UAZ-452 is one of the most popular domestic cars. High cross-country ability, coupled with low cost and maintainability of all main components - these are the main advantages of the “loaf”, which turned it into a real legend of the Russian automobile industry.

It’s good that UAZ has started making its cars more suitable for personal use. But you can successfully remake the old ones.

Having bought a 1988 car in November 1992, 70 percent worn out, I did not intend to drive it for a long time. However, circumstances changed the family's plans. More out of necessity than out of love for technical creativity, he began improving the “loaf”, produced with minor changes since the 60s. To somehow make management easier, improve appearance and comfort in the cabin, we had to make changes to almost all systems and components.

He overhauled the engine, leaving only the cylinder block as original. To improve crankcase ventilation, I installed a Volga rocker cover and plugged the standard breather.

Right fuel tank replaced the 30 liter with a 50 liter. I installed fuel level sensors in both tanks, and a minimum level indicator in the right one. They are closed with lids with a combination lock.

In the struggle for efficiency, I tried carburetors K-131, K-126, K-151V one by one. The latter, due to unpredictability of behavior, had to be replaced with DAAZ-2107 “Ozone”. It enlarged the diffusers, manufactured a mechanical drive for the secondary chamber, and experimentally selected the throughput of the jets.

After replacing and modifying the carburetor, the car at a speed of 80-85 km/h consumes about 13 l/100 kilometers on the highway, and 16-17 l in the city. In addition, it has improved dynamics, making it easier to drive in city traffic. Starting the engine in winter is no longer a problem. For more thorough cleaning of the air entering the engine and ease of maintenance, I installed air filter with a replaceable paper element from Moskvich-2141.

To reduce carburetor heating and improve hot engine starting, I separated the intake and exhaust manifolds.

I only fill the cooling system with antifreeze. I installed a modified fan casing from GAZ 24-10 on the radiator, and installed the impeller itself from cargo GAZ— it is lighter and more productive than the standard one. Thus, I got rid of constant overheating of the engine in difficult conditions, especially in summer.

The clutch slave cylinder was replaced with a “Volgov” one with two cuffs on the piston.

To eliminate leaks from under the gear shift rollers, I made reinforced covers with two cuffs, and now the gearbox remains dry for more than 70 thousand km.

The standard main drives of the drive axles (front and rear) assembled with the housing were replaced with gearboxes from GAZ 24-10. At the same time, the noise in the cabin decreased and the engine speed decreased. I installed couplings on the front axle hubs for faster connection (disconnection) of the wheels.

Front and rear cardan shafts fitted it to the new bridges and balanced it. I installed converted bumpers from a truck: I crashed them into the front one fog lights, and in the rear left there is a red fog lamp, on the right there is a reversing lamp. In addition to the front bumper, I installed a protective arch made of a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 50 mm.

Tires 8.40-15 were replaced with radials - 235/75R15. They are softer than standard ones, not as noisy, the car has become more stable and handles better.

The cabin heater was made using a radiator from a KamAZ heater and two fans with electric motors from a UAZ 3151. On the front panel of the heater, I installed switches for the headlight cleaner, cabin heater, interior heater, door locks, cigarette lighter and ashtray. At the bottom of the panel on the right and left there are deflectors from VAZ 2105 to supply air to the feet of the driver and front passenger, in the middle part there are four VAZ 2107 deflectors to supply air to the cabin.

The interior heater was equipped with a more powerful electric motor with a larger diameter impeller. Air intake is only from the passenger compartment, and hot air is supplied through a pipe through adjustable nozzles from the VAZ 2105 to the feet of passengers in the cabin. The fluid supply to the heaters is completely separate and controlled from the cabin.

I removed the partition behind the cab and strengthened the body frame in the middle part. The battery (it is behind the driver's seat) was covered with a casing. It turned out to be a convenient place for a first aid kit and a warning triangle.

All four wheels have been fitted with mudguards, not installed by the factory, but required by traffic police inspectors. The standard sunroof was replaced with another one from KamAZ: it opens in all directions, which improves ventilation.

I installed upholstery on the front doors and personally assembled electric windows; there will also be locks with central locking. External mirrors - on racks from Gazelle - are mounted on brackets from KamAZ. If desired, they can be folded, reducing the size of the car. An additional mirror above the windshield serves as an overview of the interior.

I replaced all the seats with more comfortable ones from the decommissioned tourist Ikarus. The driver's seat has two adjustments: longitudinal and backrest angle. A folding table was installed in the salon, which in the lower position “participates” in education sleeping place, as well as six seats, three of which have adjustable backrest angles. The two middle seats in the back row are removable, allowing you to transport large items. I equipped tool boxes under the three seats of the cabin.

After all these replacements and modifications, both I and the passengers really like the car.

The homemade instrument panel features a modern Gazelle dashboard and key switches.

In a warm winter cabin with comfortable seats, passengers feel like they are in a nice bus.

Yuri KROMM, Novosibirsk zr.ru

The gearbox is used to change the traction force and speed of the vehicle depending on operating conditions. Using the gearbox, you can change the direction of movement to reverse and disconnect the running engine from the transmission when stopping.

On cars of the UAZ family - 452, 469, 2206.. a mechanical one is installed, four-speed gearbox, equipped with inertial-type synchronizers to facilitate engagement of first, second, third and fourth gears. The box is attached to the clutch housing with four studs screwed into the clutch housing.

The drive gears of the intermediate shaft, second and third gears are helical, the first gear is straight-cut and are in constant engagement. The gears of the first, second and third gears are mounted on the driven shaft on needle bearings.

A vehicle can be equipped with a gearbox that has a synchronizer only for third and fourth (direct) gears.

Servicing the boxes is the same. The interchangeability of the assembled boxes is preserved, but the parts of these boxes and switching mechanisms are not interchangeable.

Transmission option with synchronizer only for third and fourth (direct) gears.

UAZ gearbox diagram:

1, 16, 23 - primary, secondary and intermediate shafts;
2 - front bearing cover;
3 - special nut or retaining ring;
5 - gasket;
6 - input shaft bearing;
7 - front bearing of the secondary shaft;
8 - crankcase;
9 - synchronizer clutch for 3rd and 4th gears;
10, 11 - gears of III and II gears;
12 - synchronizer clutch for 1st and 2nd gears;
13 - 1st gear gear;
14 - locking plates;
15 - bearing;
17 - retaining ring;
18 - washer;
19 - spacer ring;
20 - intermediate shaft bearing;
21 - special bolt;
22 - special washer;
24 - reverse gear axis;
25 - reverse intermediate gear;
26 - drain plug;
27 - block of gears driving the intermediate shaft and III gear;
28 - retaining ring;
29 - plug;
30 - roller bearing.

The use of synchronizers in the gearbox makes driving easier, ensures quiet gear shifting and increases the durability of gear couplings.

UAZ gearbox ratios: