When to change the timing belt on Lacetti 1.4. Checking the condition and replacing the Chevrolet Lacetti timing belt. Checking the condition of the Lacetti timing belt

Replacing the timing belt must be carried out in accordance with technical regulations, since its failure is fraught with consequences. In general, if you do not change the belt on a Chevrolet Lacetti in time, the valves will bend if it breaks. However, if the part is of high quality, then it is quite capable of traveling up to 120,000 kilometers.


Contents of the article:

A broken timing belt is considered not the most pleasant engine failure. Depending on how the engine is designed, valves may be bent or some parts of the unit may fail. But there are also situations when a broken belt does not pull anything along with it, we change the belt and are on the road again. Let's look at the principle of replacing the timing belt on a Chevrolet Lacetti.

Replacement frequency and location of timing drive elements


According to the service book regulations, replacement work should be carried out every 60,000 km or after 4 years (whichever comes first). Also, according to the requirements of the service book, every 30,000 km the timing belt must be inspected to identify defects, such as:
  • peeling of fabric from rubber, obvious cracks and folds on the surface of the belt;
  • the appearance of a bend on the back side of the belt, exposing the cord threads, as well as possible traces of burning;
  • signs of leaking oil;
  • trace of tooth wear.
When the following defects are found on the belt during inspection, then it is necessary to replace it. If you do not replace it in time, then this can lead to belt failure (whether it is a break or a cut of teeth), resulting in a collision between the valves and the pistons. As experienced motorists say, “the valve is bent.” A broken timing belt will lead to valve failure; in addition to them, replacement of pistons, internal combustion engine gaskets, etc. will be required. This type of repair is quite expensive and will also take a lot of time.

Necessary tools and spare parts


Before starting replacement work, you should prepare necessary tool and spare parts, namely:
  • new timing kit;
  • pump (during initial replacement, it is changed at will or when traces of a leak are detected, and the service life of the water pump is 120,000 km);
  • set of sockets with ratchet;
  • flat screwdriver and sliding pliers;
  • hexagon.
The timing kit includes the following parts: timing belt, tension pulley assembly and idler pulley. Also, during replacement work, it is recommended to replace the water pump. As for the choice of spare parts, there are two options: original spare parts and their analogues. As for analogues, they are represented by many manufacturers: Dayco, Gates, Inna, Contitech and others. As they say, “there is room to roam.”

The timing belt must be replaced in an inspection pit or overpass. The first step is to park the car hand brake, remove the front right wheel and secure the car (place it between rear wheels on both sides there is a brick or a special device).

Replacing the timing belt on a Chevrolet Lacetti is carried out as follows:


This is how work is done to replace the timing belt on a car. Chevrolet Lacetti. Replacing it yourself will serve as an experience for the motorist and save a tidy sum of money.

Video - replacing the timing belt on a Chevrolet Lacetti:

Avoid belt breakage Chevrolet Aveo With gasoline engine R4 16V Ecotec A16 XER will help timely replacement. Such a nuisance threatens serious and expensive repairs for this car model, which is something every owner should take into account.

When does a Chevrolet Aveo T300 timing belt need to be replaced?

According to the manufacturer's recommendations, this issue should only be addressed after 150 thousand km. In fact, the owners of the Chevrolet Aveo new T300 try not to wait for critical values. They spend preventive examination to identify possible problems.

The alarm signal will be:

  • visible defects outer surface (cracks, bulges, etc.);
  • deformation of end surfaces belt (for example, delamination);
  • tooth surface problems(traces of wear);
  • traces of oil.

Even a small amount can quickly destroy the rubber. The cause of the appearance is most often a violation of the tightness of the seals. It is worth fixing the problem immediately, otherwise the repair will cost a tidy sum, and only 70 dollars if such a replacement of the Aveo T300 timing belt is done at a service center.

Tools needed to change the timing belt Aveo new 1.6

If there is a need to replace the timing belt, you should be patient. To work you will need the following keys:

  1. TORXE14.
  2. TORXE18.
  3. TORXT50.
  4. Socket head (11).
  5. Hex key (6).

Belt Replacement Guide Chevrolet timing belt Lacetti

We purchase:
1) INA roller set (factory, but without GM logo) 530033209
2)Gates timing belt (factory, but without GM marking) 5419XS
3) Gates 6РК1873 poly V-belt
Previously I was thinking of purchasing an original GM belt kit, which includes a belt and two pulleys. But there were reviews on the forum that the original belts were defective.

Information on original timing belts for Chevrolet Lacetti with F16D3 and F14D3 engines.
Car Cevrolett Lacetti F14D3 2008 release.
In July-August 2012, the timing belt consumables (belt and two rollers), as well as the cooling system pump, and all GM spare parts were replaced. The preliminary diagnosis was a broken timing belt, but after analysis it was confirmed.
This is what the original belt looks like, removed from an incoming Lachika with mileage after replacement of 20,000-30,000 km, the owner found it difficult to give an exact answer.



Timing belt GM 96417177 (manufacturer indicated on the belt Gates)

Many will see this for the first time!


Timing belt GM 96417177 (manufacturer indicated on the belt Gates)

If you look closely, you can see the "Daewoo" logo and the inscription "GM Daewoo".


Timing belt GM 96417177 (manufacturer indicated on the belt Gates)

Here you can see the Gates company logo and the inscriptions “PowerGrip” and “made in Korea”.


Timing belt GM 96417177 (manufacturer indicated on the belt Gates)

The design part number according to the auto manufacturer “96417177” is clearly visible.
Due to the widespread timing belt breaks on Chevrolet Lacetti cars with F16D3 and F14D3 engines, it would not be a bad idea to carry out a visual inspection of the timing belt and rollers on your cars. For those who changed the timing belt in 2012 and purchased a GM belt 96417177 with the Gates logo, it is better to do this without delay, because the approximate cost of working with spare parts in the event of a break will be 30,000-40,000 rubles.

The belts appear to be original. The manufacturer's website contains a description of how to check belts for originality.
In short it looks like this:
1) The inscriptions on the belt should be cut off, i.e. it is not necessary that the name with the markings go exactly in the center of the belt.


2) The box is with holograms and sealed from the inside.


3) The fresher the belt, the better. In the photo on the right is 3E22 (number 3 corresponds to 2013)


Naturally, the rollers should also not play or make extraneous noise.


As long as the pump swings, it runs smoothly after 2-3 belt changes. You can check for backlash to calm your soul)
I hope the information was useful!
P.S. After replacing the belts, a strange sound appeared (a slight hum). The mechanic said that the rollers with the belts were grinding in. After some time the hum did not go away. I climbed in to see what was there and how it was. As a result, the protective cover was not tightened and was rubbing against the belt. The casing was rubbed down to the hole accordingly. I corrected it and the noise disappeared.

When replacing the timing belt (catalog numbers)

96417177 — timing belt;
96350550 - roller;
96350526 - roller;
96352650 - pump.
It would be a good idea to have on hand:
94580413 — camshaft oil seal (2 pcs);
96350161 — front crankshaft oil seal.

It must be taken into account that failure of the timing belt (break or shearing of teeth) can lead to the valves sticking into the pistons due to mismatch between the rotation angles of the crank and camshafts and, as a result, to expensive engine repairs.

The surface of the toothed part of the belt should not have folds, cracks, undercuts of teeth and separation of fabric from rubber. Reverse side The belt must be free from wear, exposing cord threads, and no signs of burning.

There should be no delamination or fraying on the end surfaces of the belt. If there is damage, the belt must be replaced. The belt also needs to be replaced if traces of oil are found on it (before replacing the belt, the cause of its oiling should be eliminated) or when replacing a failed tensioner, belt support roller, or coolant pump.

Timing drive: 1 - mark on the rear cover of the timing drive; 2 - mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley; 3 - coolant pump pulley; 4 - belt tensioner roller; 5 - camshaft pulley intake valves; 6 - marks on the camshaft pulleys; 7 - exhaust camshaft pulley; 8 - belt support roller; 9 - belt

For clarity, most operations for checking the condition and replacing the timing belt are shown on a dismantled engine.

To perform operations in engine compartment needs to be removed air filter.

Use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp securing the corrugated air supply hose to the throttle body...

...and remove the hose from the filter cover pipe.

Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the bolt from the rear mounting the air filter housing to the mudguard cup bracket.

Using a 12mm socket, unscrew the special bolt for the front fastening of the air filter housing to the side member...

...and remove the bolt.

We lift the air filter, removing the resonator pipe from the filter housing pipe.

...we remove the coolant supply hose to the throttle body from the two holders of the upper front timing cover.

Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the three bolts securing the upper front timing cover.

We press the top...

...and two side (one on each side) lid latches.

Remove the cover.

We turn on the fifth gear in the gearbox and hang out the right front wheel. Rotating the wheel clockwise, rotate the crankshaft and check the condition of the timing belt.

With normal belt tension, the movable roller indicator should coincide with the fixed indicator on the tensioner bracket.

Indicators on the timing belt tensioner

If the moving pointer is offset relative to the fixed one:

Counterclockwise - belt tension is insufficient;

Clockwise - the belt will be tightened.

In both cases, the belt tension should be adjusted (see below) or the belt should be replaced with a new one.

To replace the belt, remove the right front wheel and securely fix the car on a factory-made stand.

Using the “17” head, turn the crankshaft clockwise by the bolt securing the auxiliary drive pulley.

We achieve combination alignment marks on the camshaft pulleys.

We unscrew the bolt securing the auxiliary drive pulley. To keep the crankshaft from turning, an assistant must engage fifth gear and press the brake pedal.

We take out the bolt and washer and remove the auxiliary drive pulley.

Once again we check the alignment of the installation marks on the camshaft pulleys.

When the valve timing is correctly set, the mark on the crankshaft pulley should be located opposite the slot on the rear timing cover.

Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the three bolts securing the lower front timing drive cover.

We place an adjustable stop under the engine oil pan.

Using a 14mm socket, unscrew two nuts and a bolt securing the support bracket to the cylinder block bracket, as well as the nut securing the support bracket to the support stud.

Remove the support bracket.

To remove the belt from the pulleys, you need to reduce its tension. To do this, turn the coolant pump housing in the cylinder block socket counterclockwise while loosening the pump mounting screws.

Use a 5mm hex to loosen the three screws securing the coolant pump.

Attention! To avoid coolant leakage through the pump O-ring, loosen the screws only until the pump housing can be turned using a tool.

You can turn the pump using an open-end wrench “41” using the hexagon made on its body.

If such a key is not available, turn the pump body using sliding pliers using the hexagon.

Having loosened the belt tension, remove it from the coolant pump pulleys, camshafts and crankshafts.

Before installing a new belt, check the condition of the coolant pump, tensioner roller and belt support roller.

When rocking and rotating the pump pulley and rollers by hand, there should be no play, jamming, or noise in the bearings. If these faults are present, replace the pump with a new one.

To replace the tensioner with roller assembly, remove the cylinder block bracket to which the right support bracket is attached power unit.

Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the four bolts securing the bracket for the right support of the power unit (for clarity, shown with the engine removed).

Remove the bracket.

Using a 12mm socket, unscrew the three bolts securing the tensioner to the cylinder block.

Remove the belt tensioner.

Using a 14mm socket, unscrew the bolt securing the support roller.

Remove the support roller.

Install the tensioner and belt support roller in the reverse order. We tighten the tensioner mounting bolts with a torque of 25 Nm, and the support roller bolt with a torque of 50 Nm.

Before installing the belt, make sure that the alignment marks on the camshaft pulleys and the marks on the crankshaft pulley align with the slot on the rear timing cover. In this position, put the belt on the crankshaft pulley. While tensioning both branches of the belt, we place the front branch behind the support roller, and the rear branch, putting it on the coolant pump pulley, behind the tensioner roller. We put the belt on the camshaft pulleys, eliminating the sagging of the belt branches.

We tighten the belt by turning the coolant pump clockwise until the movable and stationary indicators of the tensioner align (see above). In this position, tighten the pump mounting screws.

With the fifth gear engaged, turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise using the hub bearing nut using the 32nd head.

We check the belt tension and the alignment of the installation marks of the crankshaft and camshafts. If the installation marks do not match, we repeat the operation to set the valve timing. We make sure that there is no leakage from under the coolant pump. Otherwise, replace the pump housing O-ring.

If the valve timing is set correctly and the belt tension is normal, then install the lower front timing cover and the auxiliary drive pulley. First tighten the bolt securing the auxiliary drive pulley to a torque of 95 Nm. Next, turn it by 30°, and then another 15°.

We carry out further assembly in reverse order.

Today we will consider such an important event as replacing the Lacetti timing belt. The belt must be replaced after the regulated mileage. Typically it is designed for 60,000 km. But I made it a rule to change it every 50,000 km - this way I can sleep more peacefully :)

Also, if you bought a used Lacetti, then the first thing you need to do is replace the timing belt! It’s better not to trust the words of the former owner that “all consumables and belts have been changed.” Because if, God forbid, the belt breaks, you will have to part with a tidy sum of money. Therefore, as they say, “God protects those who are taken care of!”

All operations related to servicing the timing belt must be carried out in accordance with the specified sequence. At the end, we will also consider questions about the nuances of replacing the timing belt on a Lacetti.

Which timing belt to choose for the Lacetti

Checking the condition of the Lacetti timing belt

1. We prepare our Lacetti for the job.


2. Remove the air filter,
3. Remove the coolant supply hose to the throttle body from the holders on the front timing belt cover.

4. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the front bolt securing the front timing belt cover

Attention! It is necessary to adjust the belt tension on a warm engine! Or on a cold one, but leave a slight gap. If you immediately set the required tension on a cold engine, then after the engine warms up the belt will be overtightened. This may be accompanied extraneous noise in the timing drive mechanism.

To complete the work, you will need an assistant and a 41 mm thin-walled open-end wrench (no more than 160 mm long).
1. Remove
2. An assistant presses the brake pedal, at this time using a 17 mm socket wrench with an extension, unscrew the bolt that secures the crankshaft pulley

8. Turn the engine crankshaft two turns and check the alignment of the marks. If the marks do not match, the belt must be rearranged (see below).

9. Once again, check the alignment of the valve timing timing marks (see above) and, if the belt is not removed for replacement, mark its position relative to all pulleys to facilitate reinstallation.

10. We loosen the belt tension as much as possible by turning the coolant pump housing counterclockwise until it stops.

11. We hang the engine using a hoist or jack it up from below. Unscrew the three nuts securing the engine mount bracket and remove it

Remove the timing belt from all toothed pulleys.

12. Check for any play or jamming when rotating the coolant pump, tensioner roller and guide roller. If any of the above faults are present, we replace the damaged parts.

13. To replace the guide roller, use a 14 mm wrench to unscrew its fastening bolt.

14. We install the parts in the reverse order, just note that the timing belt may indicate the direction of its rotation. The cutout of the crankshaft pulley should align with the tab on the crankshaft timing pulley.

After installing the timing belt, adjust its tension (see above).

Replacing the Lacetti timing belt tensioner

The tensioning device is automatic, made integral with the roller and can be replaced as an assembly. To be replaced if any faults are detected.

Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the four bolts securing the rod bracket of the right support of the power unit.


Using a 12 mm socket wrench, unscrew the three bolts securing the tensioner and remove it.


We install the parts in reverse order.

The nuances of replacing the timing belt on a Lacetti

What questions may arise when replacing a timing belt? Usually the following occur:

  1. Is it possible to change the timing belt yourself? Can I handle it? To be honest, this procedure is not simple, such as, for example. The first time is always scary, but after doing this procedure once, there will be no more fear or questions in the future. But, at the same time, if you have practically no similar experience and have never done anything to the car other than changing a wheel, then it is better to refuse self-replacement. It’s better to trust an experienced person and at the same time see with your own eyes what and how.
  2. Should I change the pump every time I replace the timing belt? Not necessarily. If the pump is in good condition, then you can leave it until the next timing belt replacement. But, if the condition of the pump raises questions, then it is better to replace it.
  3. Should I drain the coolant? If you don’t have experience replacing the timing belt, then it’s better to drain it to protect yourself. Moreover, this is done very simply. Everything is shown on the page.
  4. Is replacing a pump difficult? To replace the pump, it is advisable to remove the rear plastic casing, and to do this you will have to remove the camshaft pulleys. This will make it easier to replace the pump. Although, with dexterity of hands, you can replace it without removing the casing, but it is more difficult.
  5. What other pitfalls might there be? You need to understand that when adjusting the belt, we disturb the pump, disturbing the peace of its seal. Therefore, there is some possibility of coolant leakage after replacing the timing belt.

That's it. Take care of yourself and good luck on the roads!

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