How to assemble a homemade tractor with your own hands. Do-it-yourself mini tractor with a walk-behind tractor engine The simplest homemade tractor

Manual work in household farming takes a lot of effort and time. Plowing the land, hilling potatoes, transporting goods - all this is hard physical work that small ones can make easier. Having experience in plumbing and welding, you can make a mini tractor with your own hands.

Selecting parameters

The type of activity for which the equipment is intended determines the parameters future car. Dimensions homemade mini tractor will depend on the track width, the size of the units and transmission elements, and the engine power is related to such characteristics as the severity of the cargo being transported, the type of soil, and the number of plows used. Therefore, before starting construction of a tractor for household With your own hands you need to decide on the following:

1. Dimensions. Maneuverability and the ability to work in small areas depend on them.
2. Engine power and type. Diesel engines are more suitable for such equipment due to their good traction. low revs. Diesel is 25% more economical gasoline engine at the same power. It is more unpretentious and durable.
3. The equipment used will depend on engine power, torque at the drive wheels, and ride height. If the equipment will be used in winter, then it is necessary to provide for mounting a blade for clearing snow.
4. Availability of PTO. It is needed to connect a potato digger, hay mower, and irrigation system pump.

What drawings will be needed

In order to have a clear plan for working on a project to build a mini tractor, you will need a drawing or sketch of it. They are compiled based on the required parameters and those assembly units that need to be installed.

The tractor is assembled at home from components of motorcycles, walk-behind tractors and used cars. Therefore, drawings are drawn up on the basis of those units that are available.

First, a diagram is drawn on which the engine, gearbox, transfer case, chassis. These assembly units line up according to their design features and sizes. A kinematic diagram of torque transmission from the engine to the drive wheels is drawn up. The drawing then displays the design features:

• frame dimensions;
• material;
• attachment points for units, suspensions;
• elements reinforcing the structure.

The remaining drawings are not as important as the frame drawing because they are constantly being adjusted during production.

How to make a homemade mini tractor

The simplest option to make a mini tractor with your own hands is to remake a used walk-behind tractor. It contains almost everything you need for construction:

• engine;
• clutch;
• transmission;
• tractor wheels with axle shafts.

The frame from the walk-behind tractor can be used as a fragment of the frame of a mini tractor. There are mounts for the engine and gearbox. Assembly must be done in the following sequence:

1. Weld a frame with all fastening units from rolled metal.
2. Install the rear and front axles.
3. Secure the engine and transmission elements.
4. Collect steering.
5. Secure the fuel tank, driver's seat, and protective covers.
6. Weld a device for installing attachments.
7. Conduct electrical equipment and install lighting fixtures.

You can take it as a basis. A powerful frame is not required to remake it. A square pipe with a cross section of 100 mm is sufficient. On one side the cultivator itself is attached, and on the other, a steering control with a pedal assembly is installed. The gas and clutch control cables are connected to the pedals. A driver's seat is installed in the middle of the structure. The towbar is welded in the rear part.

Frame for a homemade mini tractor

The mini tractor moves off-road, so the power frames tend to experience torsional loads. A channel, angle or square pipe is best suited for them. The size of the frame will depend on the dimensions of the units and the size of the load.

The topic of making tractors for the homestead is not new and existed back in the days of the USSR. Homemade tractors in those years were built by single enthusiasts to make work easier on the farm.

Tractor from the beginning of the century

And in our time, this activity does not lose relevance, despite the fact that industrial designs mini tractors.

Some people are not satisfied with the price, others do not like the technical data of such units, so people are engaged in the production of equipment “for themselves.” Many beginners are interested in the issues of choosing a circuit, engine, transmission homemade car. Let's try to understand them in more detail.

Choosing a homemade tractor frame diagram

The vast majority of examples of amateur tractor construction are wheeled vehicles, the only difference is in the frame design, which can be a turning point or a single one for the front and rear axles. Each of the schemes has its own advantages and disadvantages.

A breaking frame usually consists of two parts that are connected by a hinge. The connection most often uses cardan joints from truck final drives, with the two ends of the cross being welded into the eye in order to limit the movement of the joint to only one degree of freedom (right - left).

Tractor frame design

The advantage of this design is the increased maneuverability of the device, in contrast to a classic tractor with front steered wheels. An engine with a gearbox is placed on the front half-frame of such a machine, and the rear half-frame carries the rear axle and attachments.

The frame of a classic design is made according to the well-known principle. An engine with units, axles and attachments is installed on it. The advantage of this design is its ease of manufacture, although there are quite complex examples of the spatial layout.

For the manufacture of frames of all schemes, channels (6 - 10) and square pipes ranging in size from 40x40 to 80x80 millimeters are mainly used. For the manufacture of less critical structural elements (wing frames, cladding), angles or rods can be used different sizes and diameters.

Engines for homemade tractors

Most often, do-it-yourselfers use the engines at their disposal, with the most popular being car engines (from passenger cars) and power units from diesel and gasoline power plants (UD-2, UD-4). Opposite ones are also quite common. motorcycle engines. Exotic (I hope for now) are examples of foreign engine production, for example, compact diesel engines made in Japan. The main requirements for the engine are reliability and unpretentiousness in operation.

You can get by with UD engines

The engine should be selected based on its power and torque, as well as operating speed. Since homemade tractor It is intended primarily for performing any work on a personal plot or on a farm; it is not required to achieve high speeds. On the contrary, homemade mini tractors need the ability of the engine to develop high torque at low speeds; in this sense, of course, four-stroke diesel engines have an advantage.

Air-cooled engines from ZAZ cars have proven themselves to be quite good. In combination with well-selected transmission units (gearbox and rear axle), these engines are able to operate for a long time and reliably on home-made equipment, the same can be said about engines of the “UD” family.

Transmission units

Very rarely, craftsmen equip engines with standard gearboxes. This comes from the fact that often the original gearbox is not able to provide the required force on the drive wheels, so you have to look for ways out of such difficulties. One option is to connect relatively low-power engine, for example M-72 and boxes from GAZ-51 (53).

For such combinations, you have to make a new clutch housing or adapter with holes for the studs, which ensures alignment of the engine crankshaft and the transmission input shaft. The adapter can be made of steel or aluminum-based alloys.

When making a homemade tractor with their own hands, craftsmen often equip it with a power take-off, an extremely necessary thing if it is necessary to work with hydraulic attachments. Power take-offs are also used from serial automobile or agricultural equipment, or they can be homemade (there is nothing fundamentally complicated there).

Bridges, like wheels, can be used in a variety of ways, from a simple device from the “Ant” scooter to serious bridges from truck. Alterations to the bridge, as a rule, come down to shortening the stockings and axle shafts (to give the required track dimensions), as well as designing new seats for the bearings of the axle shafts in the stockings.

Project development

It is quite rare to find a home-made man who makes a tractor according to pre-made drawings. Most people do this: they place axles with wheels on a flat surface, determine where to install the motor and gearbox, and begin to cut and weld the frame elements “on the spot.”

Homemade product based on T-16

Then, as the work progresses, the necessary changes are made to the design. I cannot agree with this approach; it is better to first make drawings and sketches, and then get to work, than to redo the design elements later. If you take this approach to business, then homemade tractors with a breaking frame (and with an ordinary one) will come out of the home assembly shop without the need for any modifications.

Similar homemade products have been known since the Soviet era. And the way to make them was usually invented on the basis of individual developments, which have largely survived to our time.

There may be several reasons that push more and more people to turn to making their own tractors. The main ones:

• lack of funds to purchase even a used model produced decades ago, not to mention new cars that sometimes cost a fortune;
• the desire to create your own unique mechanism that would fully correspond to the user’s personal ideas about the quality, power and productivity of such equipment.

It doesn’t matter why you turned to this topic. One thing is important: having a sufficient supply of spare parts and components, having at least basic technical knowledge and the desire to create with your own hands, this will not be particularly difficult.

Popular options today are tractor vehicles from Oka, Zhiguli, UAZ, LUAZ, Zaporozhets, Niva, Gaz-66, Moskvich and other vehicles.

We will try to figure out what supply of raw materials you need to have in order to make your technical dream come true.

Where to start assembling a homemade tractor?

Homemade tractors belong to that category of agricultural equipment, the design of which must be maintained with rigor, clarity, and rationality, which will allow them to maximize their production potential.

Therefore, before starting work, you need to think through and complete the drawings of the future machine, or use ours presented below. They will serve as a reliable hint for the next transformations.

The key elements of any tractor, not just the one we propose to make yourself, are:

• frame;
• motor;
• transmission;
• steering rod;
• hydraulic drive;
• driver's cabin.

Let us consider in turn the features of their design.

Frame

It should serve as a strong basis underlying any agricultural technology, be it a combine harvester or a tractor. Its production must be made from high-strength metal that can withstand the weight of both the main mechanisms and additional attachments, without which not a single tractor can do.

Frames are:

• one-piece design;
• turning point.

Moreover, units with a turning frame are more maneuverable and reliable, which is determined by a number of advantages, namely:

• simplify the process of turning equipment around in limited field conditions;
• determine good maneuverability even in those areas where instead of a road there is only a direction;
• better balance;
• the ability to demonstrate high power parameters with low fuel consumption.

Creating a 4x4 break will make the frame assembly process a little more difficult, but will be worth it.

Frame Assembly - Detailed Guide

Consists of the following actions:

• welding semi-frames, for which you need to have a channel No. 8. The front dimensions are 90 x 36 cm, and the rear dimensions are 60 x 36 cm. They are joined at an angle of 45 0;
• installation of 2 cut-out square-pipe blanks on the front half-frame, which will form a subframe for localizing the motor;
• welding additional metal pieces for other parts;
• installation of metal supports in a vertical configuration on the rear semi-frame, which can be reinforced with a regular corner;
• attach a metal plate with a thickness of at least 1 cm to the rear on the racks where the hitch for the future tractor will be mounted;
• welding a sheet of metal to the top of the semi-frame to mark the tractor driver’s seat and provide additional protection in the place where the breaking point will be;
• we use a cardan mechanism to articulate both half-frames, for which we weld forks to them, preferably made of steel, and a hinge, which requires a trunnion and bearings, which can be taken ready-made, for example, from Gaz-66;
• We check good adhesion between the front and rear traverses simultaneously in both the horizontal and vertical planes, so that the future tractor unit can easily plow the village roads that are not always level and straight. For the same purpose, you can equip the chassis with a rigid coupling;
• equipping the front semi-frame with a hub, which can just as easily be taken from a UAZ to indicate a larger mutual span when the main structural components diverge.

Thus, we can conclude that despite the intricate design of such a frame at first glance, it has 2 main parts:

• traverses, which can be welded using improvised materials, even without having new rolled metal;
• spars, which can be made from channel bars.

Motor

The engine part for the tractor is taken ready-made, which greatly simplifies the design task. For such purposes, a motor from a Moskvich or a Niva or another is suitable. vehicle. Its installation is carried out on a special subframe, to which it is securely attached with bolted ties. No less popular today is a homemade tractor with a Lifan engine, which is made in China and has performed well in field tests.

All the work that is planned to be done using such a unit is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming. And so that the motor passenger models the car most organically “adapted” to the difficult working pace, it is worth initially providing for its thermal protection.

Otherwise, the engine may experience overheating, which will result in not only greater wear of parts, but also breakdowns that are not needed either during sowing or harvesting time.

The gear ratio should also not be ignored, because given the fact that the maximum operating speed on the field of such equipment does not exceed 5 km/h, the motor must demonstrate at least 2 thousand revolutions per minute. Otherwise, a productive process will not work.

Each share must have a tractive force of at least 190, but not more than 300 kg/cm, to ensure optimal technical specifications to such an unit.

Transmission

Now let's move on to the transmission and gearbox. To establish this process, a motorcycle clutch from any brand or model will be useful. It is needed so that the torque is transmitted to the gearbox, or rather its input shaft. If desired, the gearbox can also be taken from any old car, for example, from a Zaporozhets or a Zhiguli, if it is not possible to buy a new one.

It is very important that both the rear and front wheels are driven, i.e. the tractor was with all-wheel drive. This is achieved by the fact that the gearbox is connected to the chain reducer through the hub, supplying speed to front axle. The articulated connection of the traverses achieves the transmission of torque to rear axle tractors

The classic design of homemade equipment is usually with a belt clutch, but can be geared, gear-worm, etc.

Steering gear

In its design, there is only one main rule - it is better to take a control system from an old tractor or automotive equipment than to try to recreate everything from scratch. Hydraulic cylinders, which play a leading role in the maneuverability of an agricultural unit, can be borrowed from MTZ or Vladimirets equipment. The required level of pressure in them is created by a pump, which also starts oil circulation. Therefore, it also needs to be found before assembly begins.
Most best option, when the wheels of the main shaft are driven by the gearbox.

The steering wheel and seat can be taken from the usual passenger car. Their fastening should be done in accordance with the ergonomic preferences of the person who will work on them, in order to avoid inconvenience and tightness.

Operator's cabin

As a body, you can take sheet steel, which is simply sheathed and workplace the tractor driver, and the hood itself. A more complex option involves the use of metal, steel corners, factory windows, walls, doors, mirror equipment and many other elements that are not always available to everyone.

We recommend a less expensive method - to insulate the metal casing from the inside, installing front windows from old equipment, thereby simplifying your task several times. If you do not plan to operate the tractor in the cold season, you can take your time with the cab and simply pull up the tarpaulin.

Assembly stage of the complete mechanism

At the final stage, it is necessary to create a single whole from the prepared elements. The equipment must be equipped with a fuel tank, brakes, clutch, as well as side lights and headlights for traveling at night.

In conclusion, I would like to add that building such a structure at home is not very difficult, as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to stock up necessary set tools and prepare consumables and finished parts such as engine, clutch, steering column, hydraulic cylinders, oil pump, fuel tank, wheels, which do not have to be purchased new and unused. It’s good if you have welding equipment and power tools, without which this process will not move forward.

We hope that with our instructions, questions regarding how to assemble a single piece of equipment from separate units will not arise, thereby providing every summer resident or farmer with high-quality equipment literally out of nothing.

Today we will talk about how to make a mini tractor yourself from a walk-behind tractor, a motor-cultivator or other units and improvised means with your own hands at home. We will also consider technologies, diagrams and drawings self-assembly mini tractors with visual illustrations

Modernization of domestic walk-behind tractors with their subsequent improvement to a small mini-tractor involves the manufacture and installation of an additional module (adapter) or, more simply, a driver’s seat, a control unit with a steering mechanism and a hitch for attachments. As a result of such a simple modernization, the walk-behind tractor produces budget mini tractor, capable of working with various attachments (plow, hiller, harrow, cargo cart, mower, snow blower, etc.), and which its owner has the ability to assemble and remodel with his own hands.

The landing and steering trailer adapter is suitable for running a small farm or for working on a summer cottage with an area of ​​approximately up to 2 hectares. The resulting agricultural vehicle is controlled using the steering column and clutch pedal. The modular trailer is quickly assembled and disassembled, convenient and easy to transport, taking up little space during storage. With a module price of about $700, you get a small mini tractor, which you can convert into a regular walk-behind tractor on your own at any time.

The walk-behind landing trailer provides an answer to a simple but meaningful question that is often asked by happy owners of walk-behind tractors - how to make a mini tractor from a walk-behind tractor yourself? This device is suitable for any domestic walk-behind tractor Russian production. The method of coupling the steering module with a walk-behind tractor is carried out by a simple standard connection using three coupling bolts, as in the case of coupling with any attachments. With such a landing-trailer modular attachment, a mini tractor turned out from a walk-behind tractor can reach speeds of up to 40 km/h.

The adapter has convenient controls, which include the forward lever, steering wheel, gas pedals and reverse. The towbar is made entirely from standard domestically produced spare parts. It can be bought complete with a walk-behind tractor, already in assembled form, or separately, as an attachment, which is easy to attach to the walk-behind tractor yourself. Also, the manufacturer is ready to remake the landing-steering adapter for your walk-behind tractor for a certain cost, making mounts for any type of attachment.

This mini tractor is controlled by turning rear wheels. The minimum turning radius is 3.5 m, but due to the presence of reverse gear, this value is halved. This garden tractor made from a walk-behind tractor, according to the manufacturer, has consistently positive reviews, it is very compact and maneuverable, and therefore effective in a small summer cottage. On back The steering adapter can be used to install any attachments, and the steering mechanism is convenient while the mini tractor is moving, significantly simplifying its operation.

A mini tractor is assembled from a walk-behind tractor or a walk-behind cultivator (hereinafter referred to as MT), mainly from serial components and assemblies of used equipment. Naturally, all of them had to be sorted out and worn-out parts renewed. Moreover, we tried not to subject the used serial components and assemblies to radical alterations. Firstly, because if any of them fails, replacement will not present any particular difficulties. Secondly, I became convinced that alterations, which some amateur designers willingly undertake, sometimes threaten to reduce the strength and reliability of what is being altered.

Take, for example, the input shaft of a gearbox from a GAZ-51 car. Using the KP-51 in the design of a homemade mini tractor, it is difficult to resist the temptation to shorten it. But when cutting the shaft, they remove what is perhaps the most valuable thing - the splines. And now, in order to secure a sprocket, gear, etc. to the shaft, you have to drill a hole in it for a bolt or grind a groove for a key. Extra work, in my opinion! In addition, the bolt is not splined: under heavy load it can simply be cut off. But if you make your own, be more prudent, don’t shorten it, take care of the shaft - no problems will arise. After all, a clutch disc with removed linings can easily be put on the splines, to which you can simply attach any part: flange, sprocket, etc. In addition, there is enough space left on the shaft to install additional power take-off devices for other units: water pump, mower, circular linden...

There are no alterations or improvements power unit, which uses a practically trouble-free engine from a GAZ-69 car with a power of 55 hp. s, along with its own gearbox (having three forward and one reverse speeds) and clutch. Torque from the KP-69, which in this case is the primary gearbox, is transmitted to the KP-51 directly, without “soft” connections, thanks to flanges tightly bolted together. In a similar way, the KP-51 is also connected to the cardan flange mounted on the drive gear of the main gear. Distortions here, naturally, are unacceptable.

The power and running gears are fastened “in place”, making final adjustments to the kinematics (so that distortions do not occur anywhere). Then the entire structure will be tested. Let the engine idle for some time, for which the rear wheels are raised above the ground on the goats. After making sure that everything is in order, install the remaining components and parts in their places. Actually, I am not a supporter of blindly copying someone else’s development, even the most successful one.

I am convinced that it is more rational to just focus on the scheme chosen as a prototype, using in your design those parts and capabilities that this homemade product has. Therefore, when talking about the MT-7, I deliberately omit the description and specific dimensions of brackets, spacers and other “little things,” as well as the features of fastening certain parts and assemblies. Everyone, to the best of their strengths and abilities, will solve the issues that arise during the manufacture of a mini-tractor, including the replacement of, say, a second, additional gearbox from a GAZ-SI car with a power take-off and an NSh oil pump (which, for example, you have was not at hand) for similar ones taken from other equipment. When assembling them into a single whole, you just need to remember: the KP-51 has straight, small gear teeth; Others have different teeth and their cutting pitch is different. This means that power take-offs corresponding to them are also needed.

The hydraulic pump is connected by gasoline- and oil-resistant armored standard rods with an oil distributor (of any type) and a hydraulic tank, a power cylinder for lifting attachments, a bulldozer shovel, and a mechanism for tipping the trailer body.
The instrument panel is combined. The panel was taken from a KrAZ vehicle, the gauges were taken from other vehicles with 12-volt voltage.
A rectangular hole was cut out on the right front wing of the MT-7 in order to see the position of the wheel when monitoring its progress during hilling.

The highlight of the MT-7 design is the transformable front axle. The use of this technical solution allows you to easily and quickly change the width of the mini-tractor's spears, which becomes a truly reliable mechanical assistant not only when plowing a field, a vegetable garden, and performing other (usual for machines of this kind) operations; You can perfectly process husbandry, plant and hill up potatoes and other root crops, taking into account the recommendations of science and practice.
The idea I proposed is based on structural elements that telescopically slide into each other. In this case, the dimensions of the structure itself change significantly. For example, when hilling potatoes, the front wheels of the MT-7 move away from each other, and the track width becomes not 1080 mm, as usual, but 1400 mm. For beds cut every 700 mm, this is the best option.

And such a profitable innovation is achieved very simply. Instead of a single cross head, two channels are taken: 120X50 mm and 100X50 mm, fastened to each other with three Ml2 bolts. The length of the channels is 680 mm and 730 mm, respectively. When the track widens, the bolts are unscrewed. The upper channel, easily sliding along the lower one, extends to the required distance (in this case 320 mm). Then both channels are bolted together again.
Naturally, when extending the front axle, it is necessary to increase the length of the transverse rod. The latter is made up of two pieces of steel angles, nested inside each other and fastened together with three M8 bolts. When changing the spears, the bolts are unscrewed. Having expanded the transverse rod to the required length, the corners are again bolted together.

The design features of the remaining components and elements of the front axle are clear from the illustrations. I will only note that at the bottom, in the middle of the transverse channel beam 120X50 mm, a sleeve is welded, which is a piece of seamless steel pipe 30X5 mm (GOST 8734-75) 120 mm long. An axle is inserted into the bushing in the form of an M20 bolt, passing through holes in two transverse brackets (made from a 50X50 mm angle), screwed to the frame of the mini-tractor symmetrically relative to the composite transverse beam. The latter balances on an axis-bolt, turning when driving on uneven soil at an angle limited on both sides by stops from a 45X45 mm corner. The brackets for more rigid fixation are additionally reinforced with two braces connected to the frame of the mini-tractor.

The steering column is from a UAZ-452 car. My mechanical assistant has it on the right side. Therefore, mounting the steering mechanism with steering gear on the MT-7 in itself is not particularly difficult. As for the lever, it is removed from the splines and then, after turning, it is inserted again, but in a vertical position.

So, when hilling, say, potatoes, the front left wheel extends along with a 100X 50 mm channel and a 30X30 mm angle to the side by 320 mm. The track on the front axle becomes 1400 mm. The track on the rear axle also increases by a corresponding amount. But not by transforming the latter, but by installing in place of the left rear wheel other: special, having a special design.

It is easy to notice that this removable wheel, used only when working with a wide track, differs from the usual one by a welded hub. Located between the “main” and “ring” parts of the autogenous-cut disk, the latter seems to increase the length of the rear beam. And instead of the standard MT-7 track on the rear axle - 1000 mm - it turns out (taking into account the “automotive” method of mounting this wheel) 1400 mm.

Unlike the front wheels, which have 6.5-16 tires (from the Volga car), the rear wheels of the MT-7 have tires from the MTZ-52 tractor, the standard size of which (6.5-20) allows them to be easily mounted on Copes wheels from a GAZ-51 car. The removable wheel is no exception here either.

But let's continue further:
The tread pattern is herringbone. To increase the adhesion weight of a mini-tractor, we can recommend screwing in removable weights or filling the chamber through a valve to approximately 2D volume with water (with the onset of low temperatures- 25% aqueous solution of calcium chloride, freezing at minus 32°C). When soil moisture increases, when the mutual connection of its particles is disrupted, the increase in traction force by the above method is not ensured. In these cases, it is advisable to reduce the tire pressure.
The rear axle from the GAZ-51 is attractive to many amateur designers of mini-equipment. Its reliability, availability, and finally. But the length...

On the ZM stockings, use a sharp chisel to cut off the heads of the rivets and, using a punch, “recess” them inside, so that you can then carefully knock the stockings out of the body with a sledgehammer. If necessary, sometimes you have to warm up the seats with a blowtorch. And in order not to suffer later during assembly, achieving precise alignment of the mating parts with each other, take care of the timely application of special marks on the stockings and the differential housing (with a chisel, before separating the component parts).

The stockings are machined along the diameter of the seating surface to the spring cushion, after which the left one is shortened by 180 mm with a cutter, and the right one by 235 mm from the differential side. The cut stockings are inserted back into their sockets. And in order to secure them thoroughly, new ones are drilled into the chucks through the old holes in the differential, where previously there were rivets knocked out inside. The old rivets (or those specially made with a diameter 0.1 mm larger) are driven into these holes and welded flush using electric welding. After assembling the entire bridge, it is installed on a mini-tractor. This ZM is attached to the frame with Ml2 bolts passing through holes thoughtfully made in the right places. Size A is chosen so that minimum width The track on the rear axle was 1000 mm.
As for the axle shafts, they are drilled from the flange side strictly in the center to a depth equal to the thickness of this flange itself. The diameter of the drill is slightly less than the diameter of the axle shaft. Next, the axle shaft is machined along the diameter of the drill to the appropriate length (see figure, size B). For the right axle shaft it will be 235 mm. and for the left - 180 mm. Each is inserted into its own flange and thoroughly welded on both sides (use electric welding, not autogenous!]. To prevent the metal from “releasing,” the axle shaft with the flange is periodically cooled with water. Then the axle shafts are shortened, removing them with a cutter lathe everything is unnecessary.

I also bought it for the power supply system new battery. Air filter I decided to keep the tractor. It is, of course, large and requires maintenance, but it is very effective. Now about the newly manufactured frame. Although it is spatial, it is quite simple. Its basis is made up of two spars made of equal-flange steel angle No. 4 (40x40x4 mm).

But the corners are joined along the length by the edges of the shelves and welded into a square tube. The spars were made composite, since along their length it was necessary to change the distance between them and raise the rear part above the front. The front part of the frame is narrower than the rear to allow the steering wheels to turn. In addition, it is two-tiered. This is caused by the need to adjust the frame simultaneously to dissimilar units - the Moskvich engine and Chinese transmission units, as well as to the front axle beam suspension.

In this case, the beam is suspended from the frame by means of an adapter plate, used from the same Chinese mini-tractor, but modified. Part of the plate was simply cut off as unnecessary, and new mounting holes were drilled in the ears of the remaining part. To prevent the beam from dangling on the central pivot and knocking on the frame, thick rubber shock-absorbing pads were attached to the side members in these places.

Now the place of spacers has been taken by side member pipes and even hard rubber gaskets. The frame has few transverse elements - two traverses and a sub-motor cross member. All of them are located in the front part. In the back link The frame has a rear axle beam. The bumper can also be considered part of the frame, but it is made as separate element and is attached to it with four M12 bolts. I made a new bumper - more massive and larger than the standard one, planning to hang a shovel bucket on it in the future.

It should be noted that the holes in the frame for fastening components and assemblies were drilled mainly in place, after carefully checking the position of the latter. The rear axle is completely Chinese, but the wheels here had to be adapted from the Belarus tractor, although the tires on them are also standard. A hitch for connecting soil-cultivating implements together with a single-blade plow was included in the kit (or rather, “under-completed”) with the mini-tractor.

But since the engine was installed with a more powerful one, to increase productivity when plowing, I made another share similar to the first one and an additional unit for attaching it to the plow. And to prevent the car from slipping due to lack of mass under such efforts, heavy cast-iron discs were attached to the wheels. Since from the very beginning the mini-tractor was intended to be used as a tractor for a cargo trailer from passenger car, then I made a ball fork for coupling with it.
But in this unit, only the connecting element is homemade, and the ball is industrially made. The trailer (it is homemade) has an industrial coupling device. Technical requirements prohibit the use of handicraft products in devices of this type.

True, the fork bar prevents free access to the power take-off shaft (PTO), but so far this mechanism has remained unused and covered with a plastic cap. It should be noted that most of the controls: steering mechanism, braking system, the clutches of the mini-tractor were fine and I used them with virtually no modifications. Only due to the increased distance to the front axle it was necessary to lengthen the longitudinal steering rod.

It is worth noting here that the steering of the tractor is quite simple and does not have a trapezoid. The rotating arms on the wheel axles are connected to each other by one transverse rod. The hydraulic system lacked a pump and a fine oil filter.

These units fit without adjustments or modifications from domestic tractors. This fact indirectly confirmed the version heard on the market that the tractor was designed in our country. There were no light signaling devices in the purchased units, and therefore they had to be purchased and installed anew. The front headlights are from agricultural machinery, the turning lights are from a Niva car, the rear signal light units are from a Volga GAZ-24.

The engine for this mini-tractor is used from the Vyatka-150 M scooter. It will also be suitable from “Tourist”, which is no less popular among home-made people. Its power is 7 p.s. As practice has shown, this is quite enough for a universal mini-machine, the main purpose of which is the mechanization of various types of work in the school area, as well as clearing the territory of snow and transporting goods on a (also homemade) trailer.
Reliable cooling of the engine is provided by forced airflow. Starting is carried out by a removable kickstarter, similar to a car. A sleeve coupling is installed on the engine output shaft (connection Ev. 32X1, 5X20). The other end of the coupling transmits torque (splined connection 8X32x38) to the not so scarce gearbox from the GAZ-69 car.

The gearbox output shaft is connected rigidly universal joint with the final drive of the rear axle. The latter used a corresponding block from a decommissioned electric car. This block transmits torque (thanks to a four-way worm) from i=12:1 to the drive wheels. As a result, the entire design has 12 gears: 3 of them are backward, and all the rest are forward, which allows you to select the optimal engine operating mode in the designed Gnome speed range: from 0.5 to 15 km/h. To provide the tractor with sharp turns, as well as The band brake serves to hold it in parking lots, ascents and slopes.

Moreover, the design of this brake has much in common with similar devices that are widely used in industrially manufactured agricultural machinery. And the peculiarity is that a steel belt used from a decommissioned Niva combine with friction linings riveted to it covers a homemade (St45) brake drum.

The diameter of its working surface is 200 mm, width - 60 mm. When you press the brake pedal, the lever tightens the band around the drum, braking the tractor. To set the initial gap between brake drum and the tape provides an adjustment device. The frame of the mini-tractor is welded, rectangular in shape.

It is made from sections of steel channel No. 8. The cross members also serve as brackets for installing the engine, gearbox, and other equally important components of the tractor structure. The rear axle from the already mentioned electric car is also attached to the stepladders (not shown in the illustrations). And in front, on welded gussets made of steel sheet (St45, 15-20 mm thick), in which holes with a diameter of 30 mm are made (not shown in the figure), is the swing axis of the front axle.

The last one is homemade. Its construction is also welded. Made from sections of thick-walled steel water and gas pipes of the appropriate diameter and appearance resembles the front axle of the Belarus tractor. Vertical bushings are equipped with bronze sleeves - plain bearings. The steering mechanism is used from a decommissioned Polish “Beetle” car, providing sufficient maneuverability and ease of control, so necessary for a school mini-tractor.

The car has the ability to turn around without any difficulties even on a “patch” with a radius of just over two meters. The front wheels of the mini tractor with hubs are taken from used tractor rakes. The tire size is 5.00X9". You can use other wheels. For example, from a SZA motorized stroller with tires 5.00X 10". The rear ones are from the driven wheels of the T-16 tractor, followed by cutting the tread. Driven wheels from other vehicles with tire sizes from 6.5X16" to 9.00X16" are quite acceptable as driving wheels.

For example, from the SK-4 combine, T 28, T-40 tractors. Fuel tank homemade. You can also use a ready-made one from the commercially produced “Dymok” stove, adapting it accordingly. The capacity is 6.7 liters, which allows the mini-tractor to work continuously (depending on the type of work performed) for 3-4 hours without additional refueling.
.
The cladding is made of sheet steel 1.5 mm thick. Covered with protective auto enamel in bright, pleasing colors and colors that satisfy the requirements of technical aesthetics. For example, a combination of yellow with orange or red looks good. Especially if Polish enamel is used for protective painting. The seat was used from a decommissioned Niva.
It can be adjusted according to all ergonomic parameters to ensure comfortable operation for the driver. On the front of the tractor frame there is a counterweight made of two ballast blocks from DT-20, sawn in half. Dimensions of each half: 140x50x220 mm. Fastening - with M12 bolts, on the inside of the frame.
The design of the school mini-tractor is such that it virtually eliminates accidental contact with rotating and other parts that pose an increased danger during operation. Where necessary, additional casings and fencing panels are provided. Among other design features, noteworthy is the technical solution that allows manual and foot control of the throttles using a single cable.

To ensure that the mini-tractor does not stand idle, you need to take care of a set of various mounted and trailed agricultural implements. And above all, for high-quality plowing, mechanized planting (for example, potatoes, other valuable crops), inter-row cultivation and harvesting of the grown crop.
For plowing, I recommend getting one- and one-and-a-half-horse plows, which you can make yourself. These tillage implements are installed in the sockets of a special frame: welded, made of 80X X 40 mm channel (see illustrations), a special adjustment mechanism, a rubber-coated wheel and an actuator for the hydraulic suspension. And since the right wheels of the MT-7 go along the furrow when plowing, the plows are pre-installed with such a deviation from the vertical to the right that during operation they take a perpendicular position (compensation is provided by the tilt of the mini-tractor body itself).

Accordingly, the toe of each plow must be turned 1-2 degrees, but to the left. Then the resistance of the earth, “selecting” all the gaps, will turn the machine (again to the right), and both implements will end up in the longitudinal plane of the mini-tractor.
The cutting of the ridges is carried out by three hillers (see the corresponding illustration). When planting tubers, the hillers are rearranged accordingly into other nests, and during one pass of the mini-tractor, the tubers planted in the finished furrow are covered with hillers on both sides. At the same time, the third hiller, installed 350 mm to the left of the second and slightly behind it, cuts a new furrow for planting the tubers of the next bed. That is, in one pass, the MT-7 performs both filling up the previous furrow and preparing a new furrow.

When hilling potatoes, the front axle, as mentioned earlier, moves apart on one, left side to a track of 1400 mm. The rear left wheel is replaced with another one - a special one, with a welded extended hub. And there is no damage to the processed potatoes.

DIY mini tractor

If you have a house in the village, or even live there permanently, you know what real housework is like. It is simply impossible to manage without transport when running a household. The best for these purposes is a mini-tractor; with its help, you can fulfill all your needs, from digging up land for sowing, to transporting large and small-sized cargo. But such technology is far from cheap, what should you do? There is one option - to make a mini tractor with your own hands. Yes, the task is not easy, but if you can do it, you will save a lot of money, and satisfaction from the finished device will come every time you start working with the tractor.

Which version of a homemade mini tractor to choose?

Homemade mini tractor for household use with a broken frame

The best option for a homemade mini tractor is a machine with a broken frame. Such a unit consists of 2 parts, rear and front, the coupling of which is carried out by a special hinge mechanism. In the front part are located all the control mechanisms, as well as all chassis. Control is carried out via a steering wheel and hydraulic cylinders; the entire structure bends on a hinge and changes the relative position of the two parts of the tractor. Thus, if you use this design, you can save on some parts designed to mount the controls, which would normally be located at the rear of the machine.

The rear part of such a mini tractor is much simpler in design than the front. It consists of a rear axle, which is fixed in cradle on the side members of the axle shaft; a seat for the driver and a device for attaching attachments from the Belorus tractor are installed on this structure. The differential and axle shafts can be taken from any loader. Suspension on the rear can be done, but this is not very advisable; usually shock absorption is achieved due to low pressure in the wheels.

In addition to the simplest design, such a mini tractor has several advantages:

1. Large production capacity, this device is capable of producing power close to a large tractor, especially if you assemble an all-wheel drive tractor with an articulated frame;
2. The ability to turn around in minimal areas, the turning radius of this device is minimal due to the broken frame design. The tractor can be turned 360 degrees almost in one place, this is especially useful property when plowing the land;
3. Low fuel consumption, and this indicator also depends on the design features of the machine, but most often the consumption is minimal;
4. Relatively low cost of assembly of the unit. If you buy such a tractor assembled at a factory, the amount will make your eyes roll out of your head. And if you do it yourself, you can get a significant discount, since the assembly uses structural elements that can be obtained at the lowest prices.

Drawings - the first stage of assembly

Mini tractor drawing
Kinematic diagram of a mini tractor

Before you take up the tools, you need to carefully consider the entire design of the tractor itself and the coupling diagram of its two parts. Correct drawings are the basis. It is best to find reliable drawings from third-party sources, since it is very difficult to provide for all the design features, because a tractor is a very complex set of interconnected mechanisms. It is necessary to think through the arrangement of all elements of the system so that they can interact effectively with each other. First of all, the main components of the tractor and the driver’s seat are drawn on the drawing. If you are not particularly skilled in drawing up plans, you can ask an experienced mechanic to help you with this problem, and then take apart the plan and build the tractor yourself.

The second stage is reading the drawings and assembling the entire structure

When did you find necessary drawings you can proceed to search necessary components and assembling them into a single system.
Remember, when searching for parts, pay the most attention to three groups of spare parts: engine, chassis and gearbox - they should be removed from the same type of equipment, so there will be no need to adjust them to each other.

Selection of engine and transmission

Engine UD-2

In choice suitable engines for a homemade mini tractor there is not much variety; most often you have to choose from what is available and most suitable. In terms of economic and production indicators, 2 types of engines UD-2 or UD-4 are best suited for installation on a tractor of this design, but, in general, you can use diesel engines with one or two cylinders. If you can find it, you can use the M-67; its main characteristics are long service life with minimal maintenance costs.

Before installation, such an engine must be modernized, its gear ratio is increased, and it is also necessary to come up with a cooling system, since it does not have one. For cooling, you can install a fan, which is mounted on the crankshaft with a casing attached to direct the air flow.