How to make a homemade ATV with your own hands. Homemade ATV. Selecting a donor for a new frame

Does everyone remember this miracle? So, those who wish will find further drawings for this ATV so that they can assemble it with their own hands!

The universal motorized vehicle that I developed is designed to travel on any roads and forest paths; In addition, it can tow a trailer weighing up to 250 kg. The car has been in use for three years now, but I have had no comments on the design, handling or reliability.

IN winter time it is easy to convert it by replacing the rear wheels with pneumatic ones and installing a steering ski in front; the car thus turns into a snowmobile, and the transformation takes less than an hour. The use of available materials in the manufacture of an all-terrain vehicle and the simplicity of the design may well ensure the repeatability of the machine even in a home workshop.

The MTS frame is made of round pipes, square profiles and angles. Its feature is detachable connections that allow you to remove the steering column assembly when installing the engine, as well as the front axle beam. Each of the connectors consists of a conventional “plumbing” coupling, a drive and a lock nut.

To tension the chain connecting the engine to the gearbox, the motor frame (part of the frame of the Minsk motorcycle) moves; axis rear wheels with bearings also has the ability to move in the longitudinal direction, which allows you to adjust the tension of the second chain connecting the gearbox to the rear axle. Front and rear wings removable (they are not available in the snowmobile version). The joining of frame elements was carried out by electric welding.

Moto engine vehicle- from the Minsk motorcycle, I have no comments on its work. It is, of course, possible to install more powerful engines- from the Voskhod motorcycle or Tula scooter; you just need to adjust the frame dimensions for them. The choice of the “Minsk” engine was due to its efficiency and low weight. Its power turned out to be quite sufficient for traveling on a snowmobile with a passenger; it is also possible to tow a skier or sled. The starting properties of the engine are quite satisfactory both in summer and winter.

The directional control of the summer version of the motor vehicle is provided by turning the front wheels using two rods; for the winter version there is a lever and a rod connecting it to the ski fork. The latter is borrowed from a moped. Front axle- from the SZD motorized stroller, however, somewhat reduced: sections are cut out of its beams and the central parts (with the torsion bar mounting bolt) are welded with the peripheral ones (with the bushings of the suspension arms). IN winter version levers, steering knuckles, rods and torsion bars are dismantled.

The steering wheel is from a “Tourist” scooter; it fits perfectly with the steering shaft with an M10 bolt. The controls are standard, motorcycle ones. The brake lever is connected by a cable to brake pads installed on the gearbox.

Gearbox. Its basis was the rear wheel hub of the Tula-200 scooter, to which from the side brake drum the sprocket is welded. Drive rear axle carried out by a chain with a pitch of 19 mm. The transmission brake allows you to significantly simplify the design of the rear axle. The sprocket on the axle is fixed with an M14 bolt; the hubs of the running wheels are fastened in the same way, as shown in the drawings. As the base of the gearbox, you can use not only the wheel hub of the “Tourist”, but also other motor vehicles.

The axle of the drive wheels is a rod with a diameter of 30 mm; its ends are machined to Ø25 mm, and turned hubs are put on these places. The wheels are used from a motorized stroller measuring 5.00X10.0. Winter wheels are conventional for pneumatic tires low pressure designs: with plywood disks, aluminum supports and camera fastening with belts. The axle bearings are double-row; they have conical inserts with nuts that secure the axle well and do not require high precision machining.

Additional equipment. This includes front and rear trunks, headlights, turn signals and brake lights; their attachment points are shown in the figures.

The design of the all-terrain vehicle is simple; it can be made in just a few days in a fairly primitive workshop - of course, if all the component parts are available. And the possibilities for using such a machine are the widest: as a winch when plowing a vegetable garden, to drive a circular saw, like a simple garden tractor (excellent cross-country ability on arable land, so cultivation, hilling, etc. is possible). In addition, you can increase cross-country ability by installing twin rear wheels. You can also mount a reverse gearbox from a SZA motorized stroller, in which the differential is replaced by a shaft, and then the all-terrain vehicle will receive reverse gear. There is no wear of the tires due to the lack of a differential, and this does not affect handling.

Any ATV experiences heavy loads when moving, and therefore, in order to provide proper conditions for movement, manufacturers try to create the most durable frame possible. It is the frame that must withstand not only the weight of the ATV and the driver, but also sudden falls and maneuvers. The frame is created according to a special drawing; well-known Japanese and Chinese companies produce a frame that is reliable and has an excellent functional design. But if it is not possible to buy a branded model, and you have a great desire to ride off-road, we suggest making an ATV yourself, and some of the design details will be no worse than their foreign counterparts.

ATV frame dimensions usually differ depending on the technical properties of the model. If the equipment has a simple engine and must withstand the load of 1 person, a small, durable frame would be optimal. For example, the frame of the Stealth 800 ATV has a length of 2,088 mm and a width of 1,213 mm, which is already an excellent indicator. But another representative, Irbis 200U, received a length of 1,760 mm and a width of 1,060 mm. That is, the difference is significant.

In addition to these requirements, the frame must be welded and made of durable materials. Usually round steel pipes and metal profiles are used; they best withstand heavy loads. If you bought equipment of a certain brand, then, regardless of the technical characteristics, the frame must have the required design features. Many people also wonder where the frame number is on an ATV? It must be there, so there is no standard location. Typically try to look for the frame number under the seat, many have it on the bottom of the front. Others advise looking at the frame number on the right side under the front arm. You will have to find the frame number; without this data you will not be able to register your ATV.

DIY ATV frame

If you decide to create a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle with your own hands, the first thing you need to do is create a frame. Experts advise using frames from the Urals and the Oka car, they are better amenable to changes. If you do not have the specified equipment, use standard diagrams and create an ATV frame from steel pipes and a metal profile. Sometimes, if you have a Ural motorcycle, you will additionally have to install homemade frame. This is a big plus when creating an ATV, because it is possible to install a native Ural engine on a motorcycle frame, and an additional frame will create the design of a real ATV. If you do not know how to weld an ATV frame, first study the diagram below. Afterwards, you can consult with a welder or mechanic who can quickly weld all the parts for you.

As you can see, the ATV frame diagram below is quite standard and has simple design, the main thing is to perform all processes correctly. In the case of using a frame from the Urals with an additional frame made of pipes, this design will be much simpler. The fact is that the motorcycle frame will already be ready-made box, engine and other elements without additional welding, and the installed frame will directly support the wheels and driver.

An ATV from a store is not a pleasure accessible to everyone. Therefore, many craftsmen make quadrics with their own hands. And in this article we will talk about the most interesting of them.

In making an ATV, everything that is found in the garage and nearby can be useful. Each vehicle made by hand is unique and individual, so it is difficult to talk about drawings and diagrams.

Few people describe in detail the process of building their brainchild, which makes it extremely difficult to find specific information. But there are also exceptions.

How to make an ATV with your own hands

in 2012, the talented designer S. Pletnev shared the drawings and nuances of building his brainchild.

What was used in the design of the vehicle:

• Front and rear wheels from Niva Chevrolet 15 inches
• Engine a-m Oka
• Oka gearbox
• Inter-wheel gearboxes from rear axles VAZ "classics"
• CV joint from a VAZ-2108 car, 12 pcs.
• Fuel tank 20l canister
• Passenger support from the headrest of the Oka
• Clutches from Oka
• Steering wheel from a Ural motorcycle"
• Instrument panel from Oka car

Main technical characteristics of the ATV:

ATV drawings:

The transmission is made from AvtoVAZ units with some modifications. For example, to reduce speed and increase torque, a chain drive was used instead of the main pair.

Inter-wheel gearboxes are borrowed from the classics, axle shafts are removed and replaced with CV joints from front wheel drive vase. Constant velocity joints are also used in other transmission units.

The suspension is independent on triangular wishbones. Shock absorbers from Oka.

Homemade muffler of 2 sections, insulated with asbestos.

The body kit is made of fiberglass. The creation of such plastic took 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer and the same amount of hardener. 15 meters of fiberglass and 5 meters of glass mat.

The ATV body kit is fiberglass. I glued it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

The bumpers and guardrails are welded from 20mm round pipes.

Photo of the finished ATV:

Material based on the article: http://modelist-konstruktor.com/razrabotki/853

ATV from a motorcycle

This quad is made on the basis of the Ural motorcycle.

All the details are in the video.

ATV with IZh Jupiter engine. Transfer case from Ant motorcycle.

ATV Cobra MIX

Generator, forced cooling, lowering, electric starter from tens, engine from a Ural motorcycle.

Video of a homemade ATV in action:

Homemade buggy "Raptor"

Homemade ATV with an Oka engine

Today, old Soviet-made motorcycles are increasingly sent for recycling or to scrap metal collection points. And there are reasons for this. Firstly, it is very difficult to maintain an old motorcycle due to the large shortage of spare parts for it, and secondly, frequent breakdowns can infuriate even the most adequate motorcyclist. So it turns out that they either sit in the yard and rust, or are disassembled and sent “for spare parts.” However, some craftsmen give a second life to Soviet transport by converting it into an ATV. The most popular platform for this was the Ural motorcycle. How to make an ATV from a Ural, read further in our article.

Manufacturing stages

In total there are 4 stages that make up this type of transport:

1. Frame modernization.
2. Installation of another engine and gearbox.
3. Reworking the suspension.
4. Painting and installation of a new dashboard.

What materials do we need for work?

In order to independently make a 4x4 from a Ural, we will need the following set of spare parts:

• Two new bridges.
• Brake system.
• Shock absorbers.

Among the main tools, it is necessary to highlight a welding machine, as well as an angle grinder. In their absence, it is simply impossible to fully assemble the ATV.

Control type

Before you begin modernization work, you should decide what type of control the future vehicle will have. It can be either a motorcycle or a steering wheel. In the latter case, a standard steering wheel from the Urals is ideal, but in the second case you will have to purchase additional spare parts. And of course, all this, together with the future frame design, is applied to the drawing of the ATV. In this case, the Ural will turn out to be a real beast that can easily overcome any road obstacles.

Frame

At the initial stage, it is necessary to make technical adjustments to the design of the standard frame. In our case, we move the tube of the vertical seatposts back 4 centimeters, after which we weld the bridge and fork to the swingarm of the motorcycle and cut off the rear struts. How to further make an ATV from the Ural with your own hands? We make special struts from metal pipes and install them next to the suspension bushings. Parts such as the rear trunk and front bumper can be made from a thin-walled pipe with a cross-section of 30 millimeters. To prevent the welding machine from burning through the metal, set its power to the very minimum.

Chassis system

How to make an ATV from a Ural? First of all, we pay attention to There may be several options for finalizing the system. The simplest of them is to install a standard cardan shaft together with the gearbox. Of course, this method is much simpler and faster than installing a car axle, but do not forget that it will not contain a differential.

In this regard, most owners decide to install bridges with passenger car. The most suitable option for this there will be a domestic "Oka". But its weight is too large, which will significantly affect the vehicle’s cross-country ability and acceleration dynamics, so we will shorten it. The work is very painstaking, but the differential is already built into the bridge, which is very useful when driving on an asphalt road.

An ATV with a shorter, more compact axle will perform much better on the road. In order to modify this part of the suspension, we need to cut off the support cup and spring bracket, and then remove the end flange from the socket. When we shorten the stocking, the last element is inserted back and the finished structure is secured by welding. By the way, the driveshaft can also be made from Oka axle shafts.

More opportunities open up before us when designing the front suspension. Of course, comparing the weight of the future ATV, it is not difficult to guess how ridiculous the installation of automobile suspension arms will be. Therefore, to reduce the curb weight of the vehicle, we recommend that you make them yourself, choosing the right size for them yourself. Most often it is made of metal pipes measuring 25x25x2 millimeters. In this case, the rotary cams are taken from the Zhiguli car. Brake system It's better to purchase separately.

Motor

We will have it as a standard one, from Ural. However, due to the greater mass of the ATV, our internal combustion engine will get very hot. In this regard, in order to avoid engine overheating, we install forced air cooling from the G8 here. It should also be noted that the greater the age and mileage of the donor vehicle, the less reliable the design of our ATV will be. Therefore, try to select the least worn parts on the market.

Painting

After technical part The ATV will be ready for use, it’s time to think about painting and illumination. As for the first point, the converted Ural will look great in the khaki style, but it is very difficult to do such a color with your own hands. Therefore, we select the color that best matches the given one. For example, ATVs painted metallic green look very nice. In general, you can choose the style and shade of the cladding parts without any criteria. Before painting, do not forget to cover the Ural with a metal profile for a more natural look.

Illuminations

Illumination is also selected according to your taste. Of the headlights, many advise installing fog lights, which will serve as low beam and high beam. Turn signals and brake lights are standard. But you shouldn’t be too zealous - this optics should not disfigure appearance vehicle, but, on the contrary, emphasize it. At this stage, the question of how to make an ATV from a Ural motorcycle with your own hands can be considered closed. Immediately after painting and installing optics, it can go for its first test drive.

So, we found out how to make an ATV from the Ural with our own hands, as well as what spare parts are required for this.

Power unit homemade ATV became the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooling. And if its power was often not enough for a car, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

And this is just every man's dream!!! I want one like this!!!

Homemade ATV frame- spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of side members: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. I bent the pipes on a pipe bender, “cold”. Eyes (pairs of ears) for attaching suspension arms and shock absorbers were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets were welded as components and assemblies were installed (in “place”).

Homemade ATV-all-terrain vehicle:

1 - front wheel(from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);

2 -- engine (from the Oka car);

3 - front wheel drive transmission;

4 - gearbox (from the Oka car);

5 - rear wheel drive transmission;

7 - rear wheel(from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);

8 - fuel tank(20 liter canister);

9 - rear trunk;

10 - muffler;

11 - backrest for the passenger (headrest from the Oka car);

12 - saddle;

13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);

14 - gear lock lever;

15 - body kit (fiberglass);

16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);

17 - instrument panel (from the Oka car);

18 - front trunk

Homemade ATV transmission- peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, but transfer case it's not in it. As you know, in the Oka the engine is located transversely, while on an ATV it is installed lengthwise. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. Just myself power unit, interlocked with the “basket” of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission is composed of various units domestic cars, mostly VAZ models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be modified. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, I removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gear shift rod was also made differently - extended, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The rod can be locked in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gear shift lever is on the left.

The inter-wheel gearboxes are from the rear axles of the VAZ “classic”, only their axle shafts along with the “stockings” were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are also used as hinges in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.

Kinematic diagram of the transmission of a homemade ATV from Oka

1 - motor (from the Oka car);

2 - clutch (from the Oka car);

3 - gearbox;

4 - CV joint (from a VAZ-2108 car, 12 pcs);

5 - main gear reducer with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);

6 - shaft (from a VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);

7 - wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car)

There are no low gears or differential locks.

Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type(with steering rods) - below, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at the lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of 8 mm thick steel sheet in a shape resembling the letter “T”. At the edge of the “rack” there is a hole with a diameter of 20 mm - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for the ball ends of the tie rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The bipod lugs are bent down slightly so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

The wheels are 15-inch, from a Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with the appropriate landing diameter dimensions 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel running diameter is about 660 mm.

Drawing of a homemade quad bike frame:

1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);

2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);

3 - stand (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

4 - support for the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

5 - rear strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

6 - support for the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

7 - front strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

8 - upper support front shock absorber(corner 35×35);

9 - stand top support front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);

10 - front engine mounting support (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

11 - rear engine mounting support (sheet s3.2 pcs.);

12 - mounting eyes for suspension arms and shock absorbers (sheet s5, 18 pairs);

13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

14 - upper cross brace (pipe d20x2.8);

15 - lower cross brace (pipe d20x2.8.2 pcs.);

16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);

17 - front console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

18 - rear console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

19 - connection of the front and rear consoles of the footrests (pipe d20x2);

20 - cross member of the footrest (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);

21 - eyelet for fastening the fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)

The wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers are from the Oka car (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front arms - from a VAZ-2109 car. Both had to be modified. I installed studs for Niva wheels in the hubs, and homemade swing arms in the front knuckles.

The muffler is homemade, two-section. To protect the body kit from temperature warping, I covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
The ATV body kit is fiberglass. I glued it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

Wheel suspension arms

(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm of the front suspension; c - lower arm rear suspension; g - upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those specifically noted, are made of VGT-20 pipe):

1 - beam (2 pcs.);

2 - cross member;

3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);

4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);

5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)

First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a square steel pipe with a cross-section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with your hands over your knee. The contour was welded to the frame using jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit) the “tacks” could be easily cut off. Then I bent “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I attached separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was made with polystyrene foam purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same polystyrene foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it cuts well with a sharp thin knife. Individual elements I glued it into the overall structure on polyurethane foam.

Steering column assembly:

1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);

2 - steering wheel connection plate (steel, sheet s6);

3 - plate strut (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

4 - detachable bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (nylon, sheet s18);

5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);

7 - steering wheel travel limiter (steel, sheet s6);

8 - bearing housing;

9 - thrust tip (steel, circle 15);

10 - thrust bearing

The false tank is of complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic film, I began to fill the space intended for it with layers of polyurethane foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry out inside. Filled until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw out the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse sandpaper.

A part was used under the instrument panel dashboard"Okie." I secured it to the blank also using polyurethane foam. Since the foam is large-porous, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I coated the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, putting plaster and painting the block could be neglected.