Where is the headlight fuse ford focus 2. Rear window heating disappears

Ford Focus 2 is one of the most popular foreign cars produced in Russia. This car is very reliable and meets all international standards. But, despite this, sooner or later, Focus owners have problems with electrical equipment. This is especially true for new owners of used cars. The very first sign of problems with electrical appliances is the failure of fuses (PP) or interrupting elements (relays).

The fuses that are used in the Ford Focus 2 car are called “knife fuses”, they are flat, medium-sized, plug-in, that is, they consist of two plug-in contacts with a fusible jumper in a plastic case of different colors. On top of the case, the nominal value is stamped - the current strength, above which the part burns out (the jumper melts). The main function is to open the electrical circuit in order to prevent the failure of electrical equipment and possible fire vehicle. For the most powerful current consumers, relays play a protective role.

In general, according to the standard, fuses come in 17 colors, while shades may vary. For Ford Focus, the following colors are used to mark these spare parts:

The location of the connectors, relays and fuses is different in cars manufactured from 2005 to 2007 (part number starts from 37), and in 2007 and after restyling 2008 until the end of this model's production in 2010 (numbering starts from 100).

In post-styling Focuses released in the Russian Federation, there are four options for the location of fuse elements and relays. Versions B, C, D, E (F, J) depend on the vehicle equipment. Clarification of which model the block is made by the last letters of the serial number. For example, 7M5T-14A073-DG refers to modification D.

Location

Under the hood, if you are facing the engine, then on the right side of the side there is a control panel and a relay for the power unit and other components located in the engine compartment (high current). In the cabin - fuses and interrupting elements of the mounting block (low current) are located under the glove box. The assembly is attached to the body with two latches with a swivel mechanism. Covered with upholstery, which is held on two buttons.

Working with the fuse box under the hood

1. We raise the hood.
2. We open the lid. This can be done by pulling the lever on the back of the PCB assembly housing. Does not work? Take a medium flat screwdriver and insert it into the lock of the cover. Slightly tilt the screwdriver and the cover rises. We take it off.
3. On the inside of the cover there is a special tweezers fixed in the grooves. They are very convenient to remove the fuses. Using pliers can damage the case if squeezed too hard. Please note that the tweezers are only in the box near the power unit. There are also sockets for spare fuses on the cover and there should be a schematic graphic representation of the location of the fuses and relays.
4. We check the diagram and use tweezers to remove the burnt element, after which we insert a new one.
5. We test the operation of the electrical appliance and close the box, after placing the tweezers in the socket.

Working with the fuse box in the cabin

The most common electrical problems are:

The air conditioner does not turn on.

1. This unit in FordFocus 2 turns on only if the temperature environment not lower than +5. First of all, make sure there is enough freon in the system. A special pressure sensor is responsible for this. If the pressure is sufficient, it transmits a signal to the electronic unit control and the interrupting element of the A/C compressor clutch is switched.
2. If, when the air conditioner is turned on, a click of the clutch is not heard and the engine does not increase speed, then you need to make sure that the compressor shaft pulley is rotating.
3. If the pulley is stationary, open the block near the engine, look at the location of the fuse F27 (10A) on the cover and check its condition. This PP is responsible for supplying current to the clutch. We remind you that the marking and color of the case is different, depending on the year of manufacture of the Ford Focus 2 and the fuse assembly option.
4. If the replacement of the fuse is not required, then we check F35 (10 A), which is responsible for supplying power to the air conditioning compressor relay.
5. If everything is fine here, we specify where it is located and diagnose the compressor relay. It is possible to verify the serviceability of this element only by replacing it.
6. The last option is to make sure the integrity of the hoses and wiring, especially the wires going to the coupling, where a break happens most often.

Missing sound signal (beep)

1. Check F20 (15 A) assembly under the hood.
2. If it is whole, you need to try the beep. To do this, remove the radiator grille and connect 12 V to the horn contacts. The easiest way to do this is from a battery. No sound - replacement.
3. If the horn is functioning, then there is a break in the wiring or it is necessary to clean the horn contacts on the steering wheel.

Dashboard power supply

Heated rear window disappears

1. Most often, a broken filament on the glass is possible. Carefully inspect and, if necessary, seal the break with silver glue or, in extreme cases, replace the threads.
2. We check F52 (25A). Location: PP block in the cabin.
3. We call the wiring, clean the contacts of the switch.

Important! If, when replacing a fuse, it quickly blows again, you should ring the entire power supply circuit of this device.

The simplest and most common method for checking fuses is to replace them. Faulty fuses are sometimes visually no different from working ones, they can even be called by a tester.

In a vehicle, many equipment power circuits are protected by fuses (Fuses). Powerful consumers are connected to onboard network through a relay. If there are problems with electrical equipment, the PP and relay are checked first. The article discusses Ford Focus 2 fuses: purpose, location, provides instructions for replacing the mounting block and each element.

[ Hide ]

Location, purpose and wiring diagram

PP and relay are located in special blocks called mounting. Ford Focus has two. One is located in the cab of the car. For convenience, it was placed under the glove box, and the second one - in the engine compartment not far from the battery (the author of the video is Eduard Kantsurov).

Blocks in Ford Focus 2 dorestyling and 2 restyling have differences, so you need to disassemble their purpose separately. The Ford Focus 2 dorestyle uses medium-sized flat plug-type fuses, they are also called knife fuses. The fuse rating is indicated on the end - the possible maximum current.

If the current exceeds the allowable, the metal plate melts inside. Thus, the fuse opens the circuit in which it is used.

The color of the PP determines the denomination.

Decoding software from F1 to F36:

Description of the purpose of the Ford Focus 2 relay:

Deciphering the PSU in the cabin for Ford Focus 2 dorestyling:

Scheme PP Ford Focus 2 restyling

Deciphering the purpose of the software in the Ford Focus cabin:

Instructions for removing and replacing the PSU with your own hands

Replacing the power supply unit is rarely performed, the replacement of individual fuses or relays that can blow out is in demand. In case of malfunctions with electrical equipment, first of all, the software and relays are checked. Burnt out elements are replaced with new ones.

Tools and materials

To replace the PCB, no special tools are required; there are tweezers on the cover of the mounting block, with which the elements are removed. If tweezers are not available, you can remove the parts with your hands.

When choosing fuses for replacement, you should pay attention to their rating. Install new elements with the same characteristics. If the PP does not meet the nominal value, it will burn out and open the circuit constantly. In the worst case, the electrical appliance included in the network will burn out or a fire will occur.

You can not install jumpers instead of PP, this can damage electrical equipment or even fire.

Stages

The process of removing and replacing the PCB is simple and differs in the location of the PSU.

If it is located under the hood, then the following steps are performed:

1. To access the mounting block, you need to lift the hood. The PSU is located to the right of the motor and is a small black plastic box.
2. The cover can be easily removed using e.g. a flathead screwdriver. You just need to pry off the cover on one side.
3. On the inside of the lid there are tweezers and a PCB layout.
4. Using tweezers, the fuse is removed from the socket. A new element is installed in its place.
5. Next, the block cover and the hood are closed.

Photo gallery

Photo 1. Location of the PSU in the engine compartment Photo 2. PSU location in the cabin

To replace the PCB in the cabin PSU, you must perform the following steps:

1. First remove the protective shelf. To do this, pull it down.
2. Then you need to unscrew the two PSU latches, turning them counterclockwise, and pull it down.
3. To make it more convenient to change the PP, the block can be pulled forward a little and moved to other grooves in the brackets on which it rests.
4. Replacing the PP is done in the same way as in the PSU under the hood.

If there is a desire to carry out restyling with your own hands, there are free connectors in the mounting block.

Conclusion

Fuses and relays are designed to protect electrical equipment from power surges. Each element is responsible for a specific section of the chain. Therefore, if there are problems associated with the electronics in the on-board network, diagnostics should begin with the fuse box.

Any motorist can replace the PP. Most often in a car, the cigarette lighter fuse blows. To fix the problem, it is enough to know where the software is located on the Ford Focus 2, and there will be no problems with how to change the cigarette lighter or fuel pump fuse.

This car model is very common, the second generation of "Focuses" was produced in the period from 2004 to 2011. Despite the reliability of the brand, any car sooner or later has problems associated with electrics, appliances and equipment. If you purchased a used car, it is not known what the previous owner did with it, so you should check all fuses and relays before use Ford Focus 2. Therefore, during operation, defects, loss of contacts and other unpleasant surprises may appear.

The new Ford Focus 2 may also have some electrical problems, and over time, poor-quality soldering, oxidation of contacts, etc. make themselves felt. To cope with all possible problems, you need to be fully equipped.

Fuse box in the cabin Ford Focus 2

The fuse numbering is different on models from 2007 to 2011 and from 2004 to 2007. Since 2007, in the block, the numbering starts from 100 of the fuse number, and in models up to 2007, the fuse numbers start with F37.

The fuses and relays of the Ford Focus 2 are located in the block, under the dashboard on the right, on the passenger side under the glove box. To get any fuse out of it, it is convenient to use tweezers.

Cabin fuse box in models up to 2007 release:	Cabin fuse box in models after 2007 of release:

Below, for each fuse, both old and new serial numbers are indicated.
The first number is for new models (starting from 2007), followed by the second number in parentheses - for older models up to 2007. This is followed by the current rating, description, and possible solutions to related problems.

F100 (F70), 10A - power supply of electronic modules from the ignition switch.

F101 (F40), 20A - electric sliding sunroof, heated driver's seat, electric roof (for removable).
If your sunroof stops opening, check the ambient temperature. At sub-zero temperatures, he could simply freeze. In this case, warm it up by driving into a warm garage or heated box. In the worst case, the hatch opening / closing mechanism itself could be damaged. To get to it, you need to remove the roof lining. Check that the glass does not bite anywhere, that the cables and gears are intact.

F102 (F43), 10A - stove regulator, steering column, filter diesel fuel, remote control receiver.
If the stove stopped working for you only in certain positions - it works in the last, 4th position, but not in the first ones, the point is in the resistor (additional resistance). To replace the resistor, you need to remove the pedal assembly to get to its installation site, disconnect the connector, unscrew the bolts and get the burnt resistor, then install a working one in its place. The price of the resistor is within 1000 rubles.

If the stove does not work in any of the positions, check the R10 relay in the block under the hood, the coolant level, the condition of the heater mode switch knob, as well as its contacts. The stove motor could also burn out. To change it and get to the heater, you need to remove dashboard. You can do this without removing the panel with some experience and skill.

Also check the power fuse for the heater motor F10 in the block under the hood.
If the stove blows only cold air, the damper adjustment cable could fly off.
If a whistle appears during the operation of the stove, disassemble the heater and lubricate the fan.
If a extraneous sounds come from the area under the radio, check the interior temperature sensor, which is installed there together with the fan.

F103 (F49), 10A - external light controls, battery powered.

F104 (F80), 10A - energy saving system, interior light.

F105 (F52), 25A - heating rear window .
If your rear window heating does not turn on, it may be due to broken filaments of the heating elements. Inspect them visually and if there are breaks, replace them with new ones or seal them. You can glue it with glue with silver, the price of such glue is about 300 rubles.

There may also be a break in the wiring, ring the wire from the switch to the rear window. Also check the switch and its contacts.

F106 (F41), 20A - keyless control system.

F107 (F46), 10A - instrument panel, OBD.
If the malfunction lamps start to light up on the dashboard or the devices stop working, it may not be in the devices themselves, but in the panel. But check that fuse first. Sometimes the car may not start at all or experience problems with gear shifting on the go. By moving the panel, you can understand whether errors disappear or not.

In models before 2007, the problem lies in poor soldering of the contacts. To fix it, you need to remove the panel and check the contacts on the board at the connector attachment point. At the same time, check all the tracks. Solder cracked and crumbling contacts well. If you do not know how to work with a soldering iron, it is better to entrust this work to an electrician.

If you decide to replace the dashboard with a new one, it is better to contact a car service, because in this case a flashing will be required - prescribing keys for the immobilizer to work, configuring the panel and control units.

F108 (F68), 7.5A - audio system, radio, GPS navigation.

If the radio stops working, check this fuse. Most stock radios (Ford 6000CD or Sony) may not work due to blocking and require you to enter a code. This occurs after a power outage (for example, when replacing or disconnecting the battery). If you enter the wrong code several times, the radio is permanently blocked. The unlock code can usually be found in the documents or inside the car (on the inside of the glove box). When buying from hand, you can find out from the old owner, when buying at a car dealership, contact the dealer.

F109 (F39), 20A - cigarette lighter, 12 V socket in the center armrest or rear.

If the cigarette lighter does not work and you used its connector to connect any devices (navigator, registrar, pump, vacuum cleaner, etc.), most likely due to a mismatch of the connectors, a short circuit occurred and this fuse burned out. Replace it with a working one, even if there are no traces of a break in the eye.
If the fuse is new, but the cigarette lighter still does not work, check the contacts themselves to the connector inside the panel and the wiring.

F110 (F71), 10A - exterior light, daytime running lights.

F111 (F51), 15A - fuel pump for gasoline engine.
If the engine does not start and no gasoline enters it, this fuse and relay R19 may be the issue. When the ignition is switched on, it can be determined by ear whether the pump is turned on.

If there was any strong impact or accident before the breakdown, the emergency fuel switch most likely tripped. It is located under the driver's door sill trim, in front. Check its performance by closing the contacts in the connector directly. If the pump runs in this case, replace the switch.

If the fuel pump itself is faulty, you will have to change it, it is located in the gas tank, the price of a new one is about 15,000 rubles. To remove the old one, you must first remove the tank.

F112 (F58), 15A - audio system, radio, telephone.
See information about F8.

F113 (F45), 10A - exterior light, sidelights, parking light.

F114 (F67), 10A - instruments on the panel (powered by a generator), immobilizer.
If the instruments do not work, see also information about F107.
If the immobilizer does not work, then the car can be started with any key, not even registered as a label. If the immobilizer is working, the car can only be started with two keys registered in the ECU. For theft, they usually connect to the diagnostic connector and prescribe a label for their key.

You can protect yourself from theft by changing the order of the wires in the diagnostic connector and making an adapter, which you should not forget to carry with you to the car service and to the dealer. It will not be superfluous to install a car beacon to determine the location of the car in case of theft.

F115 (F66), 7.5A - external light controls (generator powered).

F116 (F69), 20A - fog lamps, rear fog lamp.
If the front fog lights do not work, check if there is voltage at the contacts of their connectors, the ground contact, the lamps themselves in the headlights, and also the switch on the instrument panel.

F117 (F73), 7.5A - license plate lighting lamps.

F118 (F82), 20A - rear left door module.

F119 (F59), 15A/25A - 12V socket luggage compartment/ drawbar socket.

F120 (F81), 20A - rear right door module.

F121 (F86), 20A - heated front seats.
If the seat heating does not work, check the serviceability of the button on the panel, the contact on the connector under the seat, the serviceability of the wiring from the button to the heating element. The wire inside the chair could also be bent; for inspection and repair, you will need to remove and disassemble the seat. First make sure that the wiring to the seat connector is intact.

Also ring the heater elements for a break. Another problem may be in the control unit, which is located in the central tunnel near the gearbox. To get to it, you need to remove the armrest and the lining of the tunnel. Seat heating wiring diagram.

F122 (F65), 10A - airbags.
If the airbag missing icon lights up on the panel, but there was no accident, the matter may be in the contact of the airbag sensor connectors. Pillow connectors are located in the steering wheel, above the glove compartment, under the driver's seat. The pillow block is located between the seats.

If the problem cannot be fixed, it is better to contact a car service. If necessary, replace the pillows with new ones.

F123 (F42), 7.5A - electrically heated side mirrors.
If the heating of one of the side mirrors does not work, check the heating element and the wiring to it. In case of failure, replace the mirror element with a new one. The price of a new one is about 1000 rubles.
If the heating of both mirrors does not work, it is most likely a matter of the power button or wiring, but malfunctions of the elements are also possible.

F124 (F53), 7.5A - lamps of left dimensions, left brake lights, parking light.
F125 (F54), 7.5A - lamps of right dimensions, right brake lights.
If only one side of the dimensions, right or left, does not work, it is most likely one of these fuses or the lamps have blown.
If none of all the size lamps works, both fuses or the wiring could have failed.

F126 (F56), 20A - keyless entry system.

F127 (F63), 25A - power windows.
If the windows do not open correctly, at the wrong height or the closers do not work, try the following method - start the engine, lower all the windows completely with the control buttons in one long press, then raise all the windows in turn with one long movement and hold the button up to raise, turn off the engine . Start again and try.

If any one window lifter does not work, it may be in the mechanism, disassemble the door trim, check the gears and mechanism are in good condition, and there is no jamming.
If pressing the up or down button causes the window to move a short distance and then stop, the pinch protection is most likely activated. Some mechanism in the door may jam or the glass rubs against the seal.

There may also be a problem in the modules, which are different for each door. When replacing the module with a new one, a flashing is required.
If there are any other problems in operation, also try programming the power windows - close the car, open all the windows to the end by pressing and holding the button on the key fob. Close all windows and car.

If the mechanism or gears are damaged, the entire power window mechanism can be replaced. The price of the new mechanism is about 4000 rubles. Sold in car dealerships, markets, showdowns and online stores.

F128 (F64), 20A - reserve.

F129 (F50), 20A - front wipers.
If the wipers stopped working, the steering column switch could have worn out, check its serviceability and contacts. In the mechanism itself, parts, rods, their connections and a trapezoid could be damaged.

F130 (F76), 7.5A - not used in new ones, in old ones until 2007 - all-wheel drive module.

F131 (F78), 15A - rear wiper.
If the rear wiper does not work, turn on the switch in the passenger compartment and check the voltage at the connector. If there is no voltage, the problem is in the wiring or switch. If there is voltage, remove and disassemble the motor. Check its operation and serviceability of the mechanism, shafts. They could get water, dirt or foreign objects. Having found the cause of the breakdown, clean the entire mechanism and assemble it back.

F132 (F74), 15A - brake lights.
If the brake lights do not work (none), the problem may be in the switch (frog), which is located in the pedal unit, as well as in the wiring that comes from this switch. Also check the lamps.

F133 (F77), 25A - central locking relay, right front door module.
F134 (F55), 20A - central locking, driver's door closing module.
If the central lock does not work for you, check how the alarm is connected to it, in the GEM module or in the module of one of the front doors. Try to disconnect the central lock from the alarm and check its operation. The case may be in the alarm unit, tracks and contacts on its board.

If the central lock spontaneously opens and / or closes, check the battery charge level, locks in the front doors. Disconnect and check the driver's lock actuator. It may also be the case in the button for closing one of the doors, the door is closed, and there is no signal-information in the control unit about this. Check if all the buttons work (you can check, for example, by turning on the interior lighting mode, in which the light comes on when any door is opened).

Also check the trunk lock contact, which transmits information to the block about its closing.
If there is no experience, it is better to contact a car service.

F135 (F48), 20A - backlight during daylight hours.

F136 (F47), 15A - washer pump, heated washer nozzles.
If your washer stops working, check the fluid level in the washer reservoir. The pump itself may have stopped working and needs to be replaced. The jets could become clogged or, in the cold season, the liquid could freeze in the channels of the windshield washer system. The steering column handle for turning on the “wipers” could also fail, check its contacts.

F137 (F57), 10A - sound signal of an autonomous alarm siren, electric folding side mirrors.

F139 (F38), 10A - high beam in the right headlight.

F140 (F37), 10A - high beam in the left headlight.
If you have lost high beam in both headlights, check the steering column switch, it may have worn out, broken, or its contacts are damaged / oxidized. Also check the bulbs in the headlights for burnout.

To turn on the high beam, you need to pull the turn signal lever towards you, the first position is blinking, the second position is switching the light, after switching to the far lever it is not fixed, but returns to its previous position, but the high beam is already on, the corresponding lamp lights up on the panel.

F141 (F84), 10A - reversing lamp, electric side mirror adjustment, rear wiper.
If your reverse light is not on, check the bulb and the contacts in the connector. Otherwise, the matter is in the reverse gear switch sensor, which could fail, is located on the gearbox. You can get to it from under the hood by removing air filter. It is unscrewed with a key of 22. Replace the sensor with a new one.
If the rear wiper does not work, see also F131.

F142 (F60), 15A - low beam in the right headlight (models after 2007) / in the left headlight (models before 2007).
F143 (F61), 15A - dipped beam in the left headlight (models after 2007) / in the right headlight (models before 2007).
If the low beam is not on, check that the light switch is in the correct position. In the first position, it turns on the dimensions, in the second position, the headlights. Check it for correctness. Check headlight connectors, lamps and wiring.

Block in the engine compartment

Most of the relays and some of the fuses are also located in the mounting block under the hood of the car.

Fuses under the hood

F1, 40A - radiator cooling fan.
If the cooling fan does not turn on, it is possible that the coolant simply does not heat up to the desired temperature. Check its level in expansion tank. Top up if necessary. The fan usually turns on when the coolant temperature is about 100 degrees. It could also be a thermostat issue.

With its correct operation on a running cold engine, the lower pipe should be cold. The coolant temperature sensor could also be bad.
Also check the performance of the fan motor itself by applying 12 V to it directly from the battery.

F2, 80A - power steering.

If your power steering stopped working, the steering wheel began to spin hard, with difficulty, first check the fluid level in the power steering reservoir. If the level is low or not there, most likely there is a leak in any hose or its connections. To check, add fluid to a normal level (filled special fluid for hydraulic systems, do not confuse it with the brake one, otherwise the power steering pump will fail), turn the steering wheel in different directions, while asking someone to look at the hoses under the hood coming from the power steering reservoir.

If you are doing diagnostics alone, turn the steering wheel to the extreme position and inspect all hoses for leaks or traces of fluid. Replace the worn hose with a new one. Also inspect the power steering pump itself, you may find leaks on the fitting connections.
If the steering wheel is hard to turn idling, and at speeds above 1000 it starts to spin easily, most likely the matter is in the belt tension or in the power steering pump. A faulty pump can be repaired or replaced with a new one.

F3, 60A - cabin fuse box.
F4, 60A - cabin fuse box.

F5, 80A - air conditioning, climate control.

If your air conditioner stopped working after the winter, you most likely need diagnostics and replacement of oil seals, or refueling. It could also be a broken hose. In winter, you need to periodically turn on the air conditioner so that the gas circulates through the system. This should be done in a warm place, because at temperatures below +5 degrees, the air conditioner is usually not turned on.

If the air temperature is not low enough for cooling during the operation of the air conditioner, there is most likely little freon in the system. Check the pressure and fill the system with freon. To find the cause and eliminate it, it is best to contact a diagnostic station or a car service.

If the climate control does not work, check the coolant level. The problem may be in the heater motor, if it does not work at all. Check if voltage reaches it by ringing the connector. You can also apply 12 V directly to the stove motor, thereby checking its performance.
If the air blows only in certain air ducts, when the desired mode there is no air supply from some hole, most likely the matter is in the improper operation of the dampers, and possibly the heater unit that controls them. To eliminate it, you need to disassemble the torpedo.

F6, 60A - reserve.

F7, 30A - ABS hydraulic pump.

F8, 20A - ABS valves.

F9, 20A - winding and contacts of the main relay.

F10, 30A - stove fan motor.
If the stove does not work, see information about F102.

F11, 20A - ignition switch.

F12, 40A - ignition relay circuit.

F13, 20A - starter.
If the engine does not start when you turn the key and you do not hear the sound of the starter, most likely your battery is dead. Charge it or replace it with a new one. Also check the ignition switch, contact group and wiring. Another thing may be in the retractor relay, bendix and bad contacts.

F14, 40A - windshield heating element on the right.

F15, 30A - radiator cooling fan relay.
See information about F1.

F16, 40A - windshield heating element on the left.

F17, 30A - reserve.
F18 - reserve.

F19, 10A - ABS anti-lock control unit.

F20, 15A - sound signal.
To get to the horn, you need to remove the trim above the grille. Test the horn by connecting it to 12 volts from the battery. If it works, then the problem is in the wiring or contacts on the steering wheel.

F21, 20A - additional heater, heater.

Relay under the hood

In addition to power fuses, under the hood, relays for the main circuits of the car are located in the mounting block.

R1 - reserve.
R2 - horn relay.
R3 - reserve.
R4 - reserve.
R5 - reserve.
R6 - main relay, motor control.
R7 - windshield heating element relay.
R8 - ignition relay.
R9 - headlight washer relay.
R10 - stove fan motor relay.
R11 - air conditioning compressor relay.
R12 - reserve.
R13- traction relay starter.
R14 - radiator cooling fan motor relay.

I hope this information will help you quickly find the cause of the breakdown and quickly fix it. I advise you to always carry spare fuses with you and if any problems arise, the first thing to do is to inspect the fuses and relays associated with the device.

Outwardly, upon inspection, the fuse may look intact, but in fact, when installed in the mounting block, it does not work. Even the ringing of the removed fuse by the tester can show that it is working, however, with microcracks, its operation will not work properly. Therefore, it is advisable to immediately change the problematic fuses to obviously new and serviceable ones. This will save your nerves and help you find the cause faster.

Most of the electrical power circuits of the Ford Focus car are protected by fuses. Powerful current consumers are connected via relays. Fuses and relays are installed in mounting blocks, which are located in the passenger compartment under the instrument panel on the right side and in the engine compartment next to the battery.
The fuse blocks for Ford Focus 2 and 2 restyling are different and, accordingly, each of them will have its own photo with the location of the fuses installed in them, their rating and purpose.

Rice. 1. Fuse and relay numbers in the mounting block located in the Ford focus 2 cabin

Most of the fuses are installed in the fuse and relay mounting block in the passenger compartment (Fig. 1), located under the instrument panel on the right side. The purpose of the fuses and relays (their numbers are indicated on the block and in the figure) is indicated in Table. one.

Table 1 Purpose of the fuses and relays installed in the mounting block in the Ford focus 2 cabin

*If available.

Rice. 2. Numbers of fuses, fuses and relays in the mounting block located in the engine compartment of Ford focus 2

In addition, fuses, relays and fusible links are located in the mounting block installed in the engine compartment (Fig. 2, the cover of the mounting block is removed). In table. 2 indicates the purpose of these fuses, fuses and relays, but on a specific car model, some of the circuits indicated in the table may not be available.

Table 2 The purpose of the fuses and relays installed in the mounting block in the engine compartment of the Ford focus 2

*If available.

1. To gain access to the fuses and relays of the mounting block located in the passenger compartment, unscrew the two fastening screws under the instrument panel on the right ...

2. ... and lower the mounting block down.

3. For the convenience of working with the block, its body can be pulled out by rearranging the protrusions of the body in the grooves of the supporting brackets.

4. Before replacing a blown fuse, find out the cause of the blown fuse and fix it. When looking for a malfunction, look at the ones listed in Table. 10.1 the circuits that this fuse protects.

Warning
Do not replace fuses with jumpers or fuses of a different amperage, or homemade jumpers, as this may damage electrical appliances and even cause a fire.

5. Using special plastic tweezers, remove the replacement fuse.

6. This is how a blown fuse looks like (the jumper shown by the arrow inside the holder has blown and opened). To replace a fuse, use a spare fuse of the same rating (and color).

7. To access the fuses and relays of the mounting block located in the engine compartment, pull the lever on the back of the block and lift the cover.

On the inside of the cover of the mounting block of relays and fuses, located in the engine compartment, there is a diagram of the location of the relay and fuses. Tweezers 1 are also fixed there for removing fuses from mounting blocks, sockets 2 are provided next to it for attaching spare fuses.

8. If replacement is necessary, remove the fuse (relay) by rocking it from side to side.
9. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.

Ford Focus 2 (restyling) location and designation of fuses

Ford Focus 2 (restyling) received a different block of connections and fuses, namely the one shown in the figure below ...

Good afternoon. Today, a restyled Ford Focus 2 (2008-2011) looked into our car service. The reason for his visit is a problem with the electronics. After connecting the DVR, which shorted out, a lot of fuses flew out. In the article we will tell you how to remove and replace the fuses under the hood and in the cabin of the Ford Focus 2. We will also show you the diagram and location of the fuses in the car.

Vendor code:

Fuses and relays of all ratings

Tools:

To replace fuses in Ford Focus 2 restyling, there is a special tweezers under the hood

Scheme and location of the fuses on the Ford Focus 2:

First you need to open the hood. Under the number 8 you will see the fuse mounting block.

The fuse box under the hood is marked with a red rectangular line.

Then you need to open the fuse cover under the hood.

The next step is to turn the fuse cover over so you can see the purpose of each fuse.

Another photo of the cover with the fuse diagram

Now let's look at the fuse numbers and their description.

Table of values ​​of the fuse box under the hood Ford Focus 2

The location of the fuse box in the cabin. Removing and replacing fuses

Let's go to the salon. The fuse block is located under the glove box.

First you need to remove the protective shelf. To remove it, simply pull it down.

And pull the fuse box down.

Diagram of the fuse box in the cabin Ford Focus 2

Table of values ​​for the fuse box in the passenger compartment: