The catalyst emulator is an electronic snag of a lambda probe. Lambda probe emulator: what is it, what is it for and does it make sense to install it? Benefits of working with our device

Emulators 2 lambda probe catalytic converter (EURO-3 standard and higher)

Due to the fact that the cost of a new catalytic converter (especially the original one) is often equal to half the cost of a new engine, so the inquisitive minds of motorists began to explore and experiment on this topic ...

The life of such an expensive component modern car depends largely on the quality of the fuel used, (which is still a problem), its brand (it is enough to refuel once, for example, with leaded 80 and the converter will become unusable) and many other factors ... but this is a topic for a separate article, we will not delve into it !!!

In a situation where the catalytic converter is clogged and, accordingly, does not pass normally exhaust gases, it must be urgently changed, since engine damage is possible (which leads to expensive repairs) and not only !!!

Another situation is when the catalytic converter is still able to pass normal exhaust gases, but is no longer able to perform its function of cleaning the exhaust from pollutants. environment CO and CH (this is most typical for old cars by age or mileage) The engine ECU goes into emergency mode, the so-called. "waddle to the garage." Accordingly, you don’t ride such a car for a long time and comfortably, fuel consumption increases, power characteristics deteriorate, poor throttle response, etc. ...

There are only 2 ways out of the above situations:

• The most correct and environmentally friendly replacement for a new original catalytic converter, or as an option for disassembly with the replacement of the old element with a new one (now they are sold separately for some cars), which will require a simple "grinder" and a welding machine (you can find a lot of videos on the Internet on this repair type)
• Another not entirely correct and non-ecological way out of this situation is the emulation of a catalytic converter. There are many options here, this is a replacement with a flame arrester of a suitable size and fastening, disassembly of the old catalyst with the removal of the element and filling, for example, with a mesh with subsequent brewing, etc. ....

When we go along the path of emulation of the CV (catalytic converter), we get some benefit, the engine performance improves, the converter is cheap, everything seems to be simple, cool, but no!!! The engine ECU, analyzing the indicators of the lambda probes of the control and monitoring probes, does not see the difference between them and puts the engine into emergency mode. By simply removing 2 lambda probes, the emergency mode will not be solved either!!! As an option, flashing the ECU with software deletion of 2 lambdas, but there are difficulties along the way:

• lack of good specialists with the same equipment
• possible permanent damage to an expensive computer
• lack of good, reliable software
• there is no guarantee of normal operation of the engine after flashing (specialists are also sitting at the factories !!!)

But we will go in other ways - electronic and mechanical emulation of the normal operation of 2 lambda probes. There are many schemes described on the Internet, from simple to complex, but I am alex.ho.ua from personal experience I settled on one and its variations using the example of 2 LZ from a Subaru car:

According to this scheme, a serviceable 2lz remains in the CV in its place, a constant low-power resistor of 1 megaohm is soldered into the break of the signal wire and we shunt the signal and ground wire of the ECU with a constant capacitor of 1 microfarad with an operating voltage of 16 volts and higher.

An approximate oscillogram of the operation of this circuit (emulation yellow curve, blue without emulation) is below:

* Note auto.18 in if the circuit worked without turning on the emergency mode, then we do not change anything in it, if not, then we solder a variable resistor 1-1 MΩ, connect an oscilloscope to the signal wire at the output of this emulator (from the ECU side) and look at the shape and range of the signal. It may also be necessary to select a shunt capacitor from 0.1-10Mkf in an experimental way

And one more lambda probe emulator circuit...

A simple emulator with adjustable "air-fuel ratio" can be
build on 555 multivibrator module
The infra-low frequency is provided by the large value of the capacitance of the capacitor C2. The switching frequency is adjusted by resistor R1; in its middle position
frequency approximately
is equal to 0.5 Hz. The emulator signals are shown in fig.
The "mixture quality" is controlled by resistor R6. AT
its middle position
"stoichiometric mixture"
0.110.9 V (waveform #1). In the right (according to the scheme)
the position of the engine resistor R6 "rich mixture"
0.5550.9 V (oscillogram #2). On the left (according to the scheme)
the position of the slider of the resistor R6 "lean mixture" 00
0.45 V (oscillogram No. 3), which is determined by the forward voltage of the diodes
VD1, VD2. Preferred
diodes type KD925V. In intermediate positions
varying degrees of "enrichment" or "impoverishment".
The details are as follows: BC547C or BC847C bipolar transistors, 1N4007 diodes, LEDs
any with a diameter of 3 mm, electrolytic capacitors with a voltage of 25 V.

Emulator 2 lambda probe catalytic converter (EURO-3 standard and higher) version 2

This scheme can be considered not only as a 2 DC emulator, but also as a temporary replacement for a faulty 2 DC!!!

To emulate the DK2 signal from the DK1 signal, the following scheme was used (by changing the resistance of the tuning resistor and the capacitance of the capacitor, we adjust the signal to the value necessary for the normal normal operation of the internal combustion engine ECU):

To emulate the DK2 heater, a 300 ohm/2W resistor was used. Can be replaced with a coil winding from a conventional 12v automotive relay. As an option, you can use a heater (provided that it is in good condition) 2 DC.

Check is off dynamic characteristics not changed.

The original connectors (DK1, and input to the ECU DK1 and DK2) were replaced with "Volgov" 4-pin ones. The whole device is mounted on a circuit board, the connections are simple by wire.
Upd. Completely broken down diagram:

Note* To set up this circuit, it is advisable to use an oscilloscope by observing the curve of the emulated signal 2 of the lambda probe.

Catalytic spacer for lambda probe (mini catalyst)

I must say right away that these spacers are not tubes with a hole and a mesh, as many people think, including those who are trying to fake them. That is why you do not have to “finish the hole with a drill” so that the annoying CheckEngine light finally goes out, as sellers of similar products can advise you.

Our spacers have an efficient low-temperature catalytic element that provides the sensor with an exhaust gas composition equivalent to that passed through the standard catalyst, the same amount of oxygen.

Why is this needed? Believe me, not only so that the light goes out, but first of all, so that the engine management system works correctly. Indeed, using the catalytic probe, the engine control unit monitors the integral ratio of the mixture and gradually adjusts the mixture, ensuring the speed and efficiency of mixture regulation using pre-catalyst probes. Almost every good diagnostician knows that the recovery time is much longer than the reaction time for the mixture control circuit on the primary probes in the event of a mixture deviation from the set one. This is what determines the need for the correct operation of catalyst probes. The slightest deviation of the long-term fuel correction, formed from the readings of the catalyst probes, causes a state when the correction on the front probes will be in the recovery zone most of the time, i.e. overshoot will constantly occur and the fuel supply will be formed incorrectly. And this is fuel consumption and power ...

What do you need, a properly working machine or dubious savings in case of purchasing cheap fakes? It's up to you to decide...

Moreover, the results of testing our spacers showed that adaptations that “floated away” during the incorrect operation of the catalyst return to normal. It should also be noted that the resource of the built-in catalyst is much higher than that of the standard catalyst, but only if the mixture formation system is in good working order.

Of the shortcomings, only one can be noted - the standard probe rises by 32mm and sometimes it is problematic to install a probe with a spacer. There's nothing to be done - you have to weld the nut in another place.

But you can make a spacer yourself ...

In a nutshell - the essence of the method is that it is necessary to make the lambda probe "breathe" "a little further" from the exhaust tract, but "through a small hole" - as a result, we will also get a weaker sinusoid and the brain will assume that everything This "fault" is a normally working catalytic converter.

Here is a photo of the spacer (I’ll make a reservation right away - the spacer is slightly wrong in the photo - “this hole” should be 1-2mm in diameter, although there are cases when the Check no longer lights up even with a 6mm hole, but it’s worth starting with a hole in 1- 2mm diameter (as indicated below in the drawing - 2mm).

And here is the drawing that we print on the printer and calmly go with it to the turner:

To be continued...

Promotion! When ordering a service for replacing a catalyst with a turnkey flame arrester, a discount on an electronic snag of a lambda probe is 50%.

Electronic blende of the AIS catalyst - buy directly from the manufacturer!

DISTINCTIVE FEATURES OF OUR DEVICE

• small sizes (1 by 2 cm)
• reliable design solution with a minimum of elements (high fault tolerance)
• factory version
• 100% compatible with all types of ECU for gasoline engines(each manufacturer has its own version (in the same package) taking into account the features of the software and hardware of the central control unit)
• support Euro 3, 4, 5, 6
• no intervention in the software part of the computer

ADVANTAGES OF WORKING WITH OUR DEVICE

• 2 versions: for indoor and outdoor installation
• complete kit for quick installation: wiring, emulator, protective cover
• free technical support directly from the developer (help, etc.)
• Warranty - 1 year

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

The AIS emulator is an electronic device based on the PIC12F629 microcontroller, which works according to a certain algorithm, simulating the correct signal for the ECU. Mechanical "tricks" that are offered in most workshops have a slightly lower cost, but they only work on machines of the past and beginning of this century. On more modern ones, this “whistle” will not work! And even if the lamp malfunction check engine does not light up - this does not mean at all that the engine control system is working correctly. Most likely, it will work in emergency mode, warming up the missing converter with exhaust gases due to more fuel and reducing the driving performance of the car. It threatens increased consumption gasoline and other disorders. The emulator developed by us works correctly on all modern cars(including the latest). It is installed in the gap of the oxygen sensor, or connected to the corresponding wires in the car's wiring.

In this form they come from the factory. In this form, it is sent to you (without a lighter). Complete kit - all that remains is to connect the wires.

QUICK REFERENCE

The 2nd lambda probe after the catalyst, on cars manufactured from 1998, means that your car complies with the Euro-3 and higher environmental program and makes it impossible to drive without a catalyst or replace it with a flame arrester. It requires reprogramming to Euro-2 or installation of a controller (of our own production, designed and developed by our employees, with intelligible technical support in which case) and a sensor that corrects information. In this case, the ECU will be sure that there is a catalyst that performs all its functions properly.

An electronic lambda probe trick + a flame arrester that works as quietly as a regular one is the best solution to the problem with your car's catalysts today.

You can buy an electronic snag of a lambda probe separately and install it on your car yourself, or you can do the whole range of work using the action (the essence of which is indicated at the top of the page) with us.

Lambda probe (also called oxygen controller, O2 sensor, DC) is an integral part of the exhaust system of vehicles that meet EURO-4 and higher environmental standards. This miniature device (usually 2 or more lambda probes are installed) controls the O2 content in the exhaust mixtures of a vehicle, which significantly reduces the release of toxic waste into the atmosphere.

In the event of incorrect operation of the DC or if the lambda probe is turned off, the operation of the power unit may be disrupted, due to which the motor will go into emergency mode (Check Engine will light up on the panel). To prevent this from happening, the car's system can be outwitted by installing a snag.

Mechanical snag lambda probe ("screw")

"Vvertysh" is a sleeve made of bronze or heat-resistant steel. The inner part of such a “spacer” and its cavities are filled with ceramic chips with a special catalytic coating. Due to this, the exhaust gases burn out faster, which, in turn, leads to different indicators of pulses 1 and 2 DC.

Important! Any snag is installed only on a working lambda probe.

A homemade snag of a lambda probe, the diagram of which is presented below, is easy to manufacture. To do this, you will need to prepare:

• workpiece;
• screwdriver
• keys set.

The snag is made on a lathe. If there is none, then you can contact a specialist by providing him with a drawing.

The resulting part is compatible with most exhaust systems of both domestic and foreign cars.

Installing the snag lambda probe is as follows:

• Raise the car on the overpass.
• Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.
• Unscrew the first (upper) probe (if there are two, then remove the one located between the catalyst and the exhaust manifold).
• Screw the lambda probe into the spacer.
• Reinstall the "advanced" sensor.
• Connect the terminal to the battery.

Healthy! Usually, the mechanical blende of the second lambda probe is not performed, since this DC is protected by a catalyst and controls only its state. The most sensitive is precisely the first sensor, which is installed closest to the collector.

After that, the "Check Engine" system error should disappear. If this method does not work, you can use a more expensive snag.

Electronic snag

Another way to troubleshoot DC issues is to electronic snag lambda probe, the diagram of which is presented below. Since the oxygen sensor transmits a signal to the controller, a trick circuit connected to the wiring from the sensor to the connector will allow the system to be “roughened”. Thanks to this, in a situation where the lambda probe is faulty, power unit will continue to work correctly.

Healthy! The installation locations of such a blende may differ depending on the model of the PBX. For example, it can be mounted in the central tunnel between the seats, in the dashboard or engine compartment.

The decoy circuit is a single-chip microprocessor that analyzes the processes in the catalyst, receives data from the first DC, processes them, converts them to the indicators of the second sensor, and outputs a corresponding signal to the car's processor.

To install this type of snag, you will need a lambda probe connection diagram, which looks like this.

As you can see, there are different pinouts for the lambda probe (4 wires, three and two). The colors of the wires may also differ, most often there are products with 4 pins (2 black, white and blue).

To make a decoy device, you will need:

• soldering iron with a fine tip and solder;
• rosin;
• non-polar capacitor 1uF Y5V, +/- 20%;
• resistor (resistance) at 1 mOhm, C1-4 imp, 0.25 W;
• knife and electrical tape.

Healthy! Before installation, the circuit is best placed in a plastic case and filled with "epoxy".

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
• "Dissect" the wire that goes from the DC itself to the connector.
• Cut the blue wire and connect it back through the resistor.
• Solder a non-polar capacitor between the white and blue wires.
• Insulate connections.

Below is a do-it-yourself lambda probe snag diagram for pinout to 4 wires.

At the final stage, you should get the following.

Such manipulations should not be performed if you do not have the proper experience. Today, stores offer ready-made decoy schemes that even a novice driver can easily install.

Controller flashing

Some especially sophisticated car owners decide to flash the control unit, which blocks the signal processing of the second oxygen sensor. However, it must be taken into account that any changes in the system operation algorithm can lead to irreversible consequences, since it will be almost impossible and costly to restore the factory settings. Therefore, it is not recommended to perform such manipulations on your own. The same applies to ready-made firmware that are sold on the Internet.

Healthy! When flashing the lambda probes are removed.

If you still want to flash the system, then contact a competent specialist who can disable the receipt of DC data using specialized equipment.

It is also worth considering that almost any intervention in the operation of systems can lead to not the most pleasant consequences.

What are the consequences after installing tricks

You need to understand that any snag is installed at the fear and risk of the car owner. If the installation was not done correctly, then you may encounter the following problems:

• Because of on-board computer cannot regulate fluid injection, engine malfunction may occur.
• If the circuit is not soldered correctly, it may damage the wiring.
• During the installation of the blende, you can damage the oxygen sensors, after which you will not even know about their malfunction (since you will already have the blende installed).
• After such interventions (not only during flashing), a failure may occur in the on-board computer.

Any inaccuracy will lead to disastrous consequences, so it's better to install a safer ready-made emulator. Unlike a snag, it does not "deceive" the control unit, but only ensures its correct operation by converting the DC signal. A microprocessor is also installed inside the emulator (as in a home-made electronic blende), which is able to evaluate exhaust gases and analyze the situation.

In custody

Many car owners install homemade snags on their cars to save on the purchase of new oxygen sensors. However, in such a pursuit of profit, you may well face large monetary costs if a makeshift device affects the operation of "vital" systems. Therefore, it is recommended to install tricks only if you understand the work of such a plan.

How to determine the wear of the catalyst?

There are three main causes of catalyst failure - loss of catalyst efficiency, degradation and melting.

To check for melting, install a pressure gauge in place of the oxygen sensor, and measure the pressure in the exhaust system. If in different operating modes the pressure exceeds 0.5 atm (Kg / cm2) - the catalytic converter is melted.

If the readings of the lambda probes before and after the catalyst are the same, then this means that the catalyst has lost its emissivity (efficiency).

The efficiency of the catalyst can be tested in another way. Warm up the engine (half-hour drive). After that, using a thermo-gun (pyrometer), check the temperature at the welding seam before and after the catalyst, if the temperature behind the catalyst is the same or lower, then the catalyst is faulty.

In the event that something rumbles inside the catalyst, urgent action must be taken. Otherwise, fragments inside may damage the engine.

Frequently asked Questions

1. Does it really work?- Yes, we give a 2-year guarantee on the result. Complete with the emulator you will receive instructions and a warranty card. The law also gives the right to return the goods within 2 weeks without explanation.
2. Can I get support?- yes, you can consult by phone, skype or e-mail. All issues are resolved.
3. What kind of emulator do I need for my car?- at the top of this page there is a form for selecting an emulator for a car.
4. Where can I install the emulator?- our representatives. Any auto electrician can install it.
5. My rear lambda probe does not work. Can an emulator bypass it?- yes, it can be absolutely on all cars. If the front lambda is broadband, with a current signal (AFR, LAF sensor), then the SK-08 emulator is installed. If the rear probe is faulty, the signal for the emulator is taken from the front probe. If the heater in the rear lambda probe is faulty, then instead of the heater, a resistance resistor of approximately 10 ohms, 10 watts, is additionally connected.
6. Is it possible not to remove the catalyst?- it is possible if it is mechanically intact (not melted, does not ring, the engine thrust is normal) and the front lambda with a signal of 0 ... 1 volts (exceptions in the previous question). The reference signal for the emulator in this case is taken from the front lambda.
7. Is it necessary to install a stronger (flame arrester)?- not required, but desirable. It only affects the sound of the exhaust. Without a stronger, the exhaust will not burn out faster (common opinion) because after a working catalyst the temperature is always higher than before it. Have you driven before without a catalytic converter?
8. After installing the emulator, will the consumption decrease?- if you now have an overestimated consumption, then it should decrease. On Euro-4 and 5 cars, the rear lambda feels in the preparation of the fuel mixture and the consumption directly depends on the state of the catalyst. On Euro-3 and lower vehicles, consumption may decrease due to the engine switching from emergency to normal mode. Consumption can also decrease if you had a melted catalyst.
9. Why is the emulator better than software removal?- the car continues to drive on the factory program, no intervention is made in the engine control unit. Illiterate software removal can lead to the fact that the malfunction lamp on the instrument panel will never light up at all - untimely troubleshooting can lead to engine breakdown. With software allocation, the operating modes of the motor can change and no one knows how this will affect it.
10. I have HBO installed, an error constantly appears on the catalyst, no one can do anything .... - We often face this problem. First you need to try to ride on gasoline. If there are no problems with gasoline, then the problem is in LPG. You can read more in this article.

Catalyst removal is a topic of concern to many car owners, often instead of catalytic converters, car owners install flame arresters, stingers ("spiders"), this solution allows you to avoid buying expensive parts, spend less time repairing the exhaust system. But on machines with two oxygen sensors, the physical exclusion of the catalytic element does not give the desired results, and in order to get rid of errors in the engine control system, an electronic lambda probe snag is often used.

In this article, we will look at how you can deceive the control unit, which methods are most effective. It should be noted right away that not all methods are suitable for a specific car model; each car must be approached individually.

Mechanical snag lambda probe

Any automotive catalyst is a muffler jar with metal or ceramic honeycombs located in it, coated with a precious metal (gold, platinum, etc.). Due to the oxidation reaction, exhaust gases passing through such a device are cleaned of harmful impurities, and the level of exhaust toxicity is reduced.

The catalytic converter (KN) operates under conditions high temperatures, so its resource is relatively small. The service life of the part is further reduced when using low-quality fuel - the honeycombs are clogged with soot resulting from incomplete combustion of the fuel mixture. Buying a new KN is quite expensive, and since it has to be changed quite often, many car owners are trying to get rid of this element of the exhaust system by installing a flame arrester or stinger.

The simple removal of KH has a side effect: on cars with Euro-4 and higher engines, an oxygen sensor installed behind the catalyst detects an excess of exhaust toxicity, as a result, the Check Engine lamp lights up on the instrument panel. There are three ways to get rid of the error:

• install an additional mechanical spacer;
• make changes to the electrical circuit of the oxygen sensor;
• reprogram the engine control unit.

A mechanical snag is a metal sleeve of a certain length, with a small diameter hole inside. Also in the inside of this device is a ceramic chip with a catalytic coating. In fact, the sleeve is a mini-catalyst, but only those exhaust gases that enter the oxygen sensor are cleaned here. It should be noted that there are also simple snags, made in the form of an ordinary sleeve with a hole, inside of which there are no elements. Any turner can make an elementary spacer, in this case it is not necessary to buy a factory product. The advantages of such devices:

• inexpensive price (on average from 400 to 1000 rubles);
• ease of installation;
• reliable and simple design.

However, the mechanical snag also has its drawbacks - on some car models it is not possible to install the device (there is not enough space due to design features), the device does not always give the desired effect (the error does not completely disappear). It should also be noted that on machines with Euro-5 engines electronic system with the help of an additional spacer, it is impossible to deceive, the Check Engine here still continues to light up.

Do-it-yourself electronic "fraudulent" scheme

The electronic snag of the oxygen sensor is a circuit included in the electrical circuit of the ECM. By installing additional components, the signal supplied to the control unit is corrected, and the ECU receives such data from the sensor, as if a catalyst was installed on the machine, and there are no changes in the exhaust system.

Usually, four-pin lambda probes with an electric heater are upgraded with their own hands, the heating element is necessary to warm up the oxygen sensor on a cold engine - the thing is that the catalyst starts working only after the exhaust system is heated to at least 360 degrees Celsius. The heating of the oxygen sensor is powered by the ECU (control unit), while the polarity of the wires does not matter (usually white wires are connected to the heater).

In the electronic blende, the electric heater is not subject to modernization, all changes relate only to the signal contact. AT the simplest circuit there are two main components - a high-resistance resistor and a capacitor with a capacity of about 1 microfarad, and it usually looks like this:

• the resistor is included in the break of the signal wire;
• a capacitor is installed between the ground connector and the signal.

The capacitance of the capacitor and the resistance of the resistor can be different, their value depends to a large extent on the model of the car and the type of engine installed.

How to make an electronic snag on an Opel Zafira car

A deceptive circuit on an Opel Zafira car is compiled according to the same principle as described above; to install a snag, you will need a non-polar capacitor of 1 μF and a resistance of 1 mΩ 0.5 W. We perform the installation of a simple device in the following order:

Before starting the test, it is necessary to reset all ECU errors. It should be noted that the installation of a blende does not always give positive results, in some cases the error may reappear. The most reliable way is to reprogram the control unit, but here it is important to find the correct firmware version.

Oxygen sensor emulator

The lambda probe simulator is effectively used on cars with a remote catalyst or on cars with gas-balloon equipment installed, the device is connected to the engine control circuit, and emulates the operation of a real lambda probe quite reliably. Ready-made factory emulators can be found in retail, the basis of the simulator circuit is an electronic timer, in the role of which the popular NE555 chip is most often used.

Basically, industrial emulators are installed after the car is switched to gas - after the installation of gas-balloon equipment (LPG), the composition of the fuel mixture changes, so the lambda probe detects an increased content of toxic substances in the exhaust gases, an error appears. Let's consider how to install the Zond-4 model oxygen sensor simulator on a car with LPG.

Probe-4 is equipped with a three-color LED indicator that indicates the state of the fuel mixture (lean or rich). The glow of the indicator means:

• green color - poor mixture;
• yellow glow - fuel / air ratio is normal;
• red indication - the mixture is over-enriched.

The emulator is mounted in the engine compartment, connected to the electrical circuit of the car using four wires. Using Zond-4 is very simple, we connect the wires like this:

After connecting, you should check the operation of Zond-4: on gasoline, the indicator should not light up, when working on gas, it should glow green, yellow or red.

Scheme for deceiving a lambda probe with a diode

It is possible to deceive the second oxygen sensor on a car in another way, only in this circuit, instead of a resistor, you need to install a diode, for example, brand 1N4148. The trick here is done as follows (using the example of a Mazda 323 car with gasoline ICE 2.0L):

• cut the signal wiring (on Mazda it is black);
• we connect the anode of the diode to the lambda probe;
• the other signal output going to the control unit is connected to the cathode;
• we also connect one of the terminals of a non-polar capacitor with a capacity of 4.7 microfarads to the cathode;
• we connect the second capacitor tap to the ground wire (on Mazda it is gray), of course, we solder all the wires.

Such a scheme allows you to effectively get rid of errors in the oxygen sensor circuit, but you need to keep in mind that the lambda probe itself must be serviceable.

Quick Oxygen Sensor Performance Check

Many car owners have repeatedly confirmed that the electronic snag works fine only if the lambda probes on the car are working. It is quite simple to quickly check the performance of the sensors; for diagnostics, you only need a multimeter. We check in the following order:

But it is worth noting that such a check does not give an idea of ​​\u200b\u200b100% serviceability of the sensor, it only confirms that the lambda probe is in working condition.