Jeans in journalism. Dictionary of journalist terms. Specific types of advertising by purpose

Traditional women's Genoese dress in "blue jeans" (1890s)

Initially, jeans were made from English or American-made hemp canvas, which became significantly cheaper due to the decline of the sailing fleet. It is thanks to this material that jeans have gained fame as exceptionally durable clothing. Subsequently, hemp was replaced by cotton, and by the beginning of the “jeans revolution” in world fashion (1960s), hemp fabric was no longer widely used in their production.

Etymology

The word "jeans" represents a Russian formation based on Americanism jeans. Back in the 16th century, cotton twill with diagonal weave jean was known in Europe, special kind Genoese bumazea. From the Italian “gene” the word “jane” appeared in Old French and from there it passed into English.

The name of the material was derived from the toponym Genoa. The fabric itself was produced in France, in the city of Nimes, Genoa supplied the dye - indigo.

The word entered the Russian language in the second half of the 20th century.

Story

Historians have long traced the origins of jeans by their names in English: denim And jeans. The first points to the French city of Nîmes, which was famous for its durable fabrics, the second to the Italian Genoa with its textile factories.

The first jeans appeared among American loaders. Archaeological research has so far yielded nothing; In written sources, only fragmentary information has been preserved that in the middle of the 17th century, supplies of cheap fabric of this type were carried out from Genoa to Northern Europe (especially to England). Images of supposedly denim clothing (a woman in a denim skirt and a boy in a denim jacket, through the holes of which the light lining is visible) were discovered by art historians in the paintings of an unknown Italian master of the mid-17th century, conventionally called the “Master of Blue Jeans.”

First of all, residents of Moscow and Leningrad became acquainted with jeans, where foreign tourists and students began to appear earlier than anyone else. Delegations traveled abroad more often from these two capitals. Therefore, Western things appeared first among the residents of these cities and a number of ports - Odessa, Kaliningrad, Vladivostok. Also, it was in these cities that Beryozka stores began to open for the first time in 1964, where the assortment also included jeans.

During these same years, jeans began to be mentioned in the works of domestic writers and poets: Vasily Aksenov, Evgeny Yevtushenko. In 1963, during the famous meeting of Khrushchev with the creative intelligentsia, Nikita Sergeevich reproached Andrei Voznesensky for coming to the meeting in jeans.

Industrial products

How is denim fabric stored at the factory?

Automatic cutting machines are used in the RMG factory to cut pieces.

P P Spray and P P Bonding is applied to jeans to give them a new look.

Adding 3D crunch, whiskers and wrinkles to jeans to make them look more conventional.

Applying permanent wrinkles to jeans.

“Jeans” come in several types.

1. Sponsorship agreements, information cooperation. Legal format. The “denimity” is that the sponsor can sometimes influence the direction of the main content of thematic pages or applications.

2. Black denim. Bribery of editors and employees. Not only unethical, but also criminal activity. Black “jeans” have its own subtypes:

• Corporate jeans.

The company brings the photocopier box to the advertising department so that it sends the editorial office to write the correct text.

• Passive “jeans” (blocking).

Through specialized PR agencies, the company recruits people in the editorial offices (so-called beacons) who ensure that undesirable topics do not appear on the pages.

3. Personalized “jeans”. An envelope with money is handed over to a loyal journalist who risks losing his job. This type of “jeans” is strongly condemned by media editors. At least publicly.

Volume of jeans in Russia

Vice-President of the Guild of Periodical Press Publishers Vasily Gatov estimates the “jeans” market in federal publications at approximately $130 million per year. This is approximately 1/10 of the advertising market. Political “jeans,” according to Gatov, are paid for completely legally in the form of “information cooperation agreements.”

Gatov calls mass newspapers the leaders of the “jeans” market: “Komsomolskaya Pravda”, “Moskovsky Komsomolets”, “Arguments and Facts”.

During “Potupchikgate” in 2011, prices for covering Nashi events on Lake Seliger surfaced. So, for a note of three thousand characters about Surkov’s arrival (with a photo)

• “Komsomolskaya Pravda” received 690 thousand rubles,
• "Nezavisimaya Gazeta" - 520 thousand rubles,
• “Moskovsky Komsomolets” - 379 thousand rubles.

Subsequently, representatives of these publications responded to information about their corruption in different ways: Deputy Editor-in-Chief of Nezavisimaya Arkady Khantsevich denied that his journalists take money for articles. MK and Komsomolskaya Pravda refrained from commenting.

There are entire publishing houses that receive most of income from paid publications. There are hundreds of small magazines in this niche that are little known to the general public. A small circulation is bought up by customers of materials, small companies, for which any mention is a plus for their reputation. Among them is the Rodionov Publishing House, to which, according to Gatov, “jeans” brought up to 80% of the profit in 2007-2008. According to an employee of a PR agency, a page in the “Profile” or “Company” magazine costs from 5 to 20 thousand dollars.

An employee of one PR agency said that he once invited a journalist from Rossiyskaya Gazeta to a press conference. He said that he couldn’t come himself, but he would write about the event what they said. And he announced the prices: an article the size of a quarter of a page would cost the company about 10 thousand euros. Through the advertising department it would cost one and a half times more.

• “Moskovsky Komsomolets” 1/8 A2 - $13 thousand.
• “RBC daily” - 1/2 page - $12.5 thousand.
• "Nezavisimaya Gazeta" 1/4 D2 - from $7.5 thousand (positive) to $11.25 thousand (negative)
• “Novaya Gazeta” 1/2 A3 - $10.5 thousand.
• “Arguments of the week” 1/2 A3 - $8 thousand.

Publications like “Kommersant” and “Vedomosti” do not publish “jeans” as a matter of principle, caring about their reputation. But this does not mean that you cannot try to buy the journalists themselves. According to one of Kommersant’s former employees, a custom publication on the front page costs from $30 thousand. On a thematic page - from $5 thousand.

I called the RBC daily advertising service, introducing myself as an agent large company. Dmitry Yashin, an employee of the newspaper's advertising service, said that placing paid materials in the main part of the newspaper is impossible. But he offered half the page in a thematic application for 720 thousand rubles. “This is placement with branding. I’ll show you an example of how Skolkovo places it, your clients will like it,” said Yashin.

Denim has been popular for its practicality for centuries. It has a universal texture and is distinguished by species diversity.

The “progenitor” of modern jeans is canvas. The first mentions of it date back to the 15th century. The material was used to make sails and protective covers for ship cargo. Somewhat later it began to be used for sewing sailor trousers.

In the mid-19th century, Levi Strauss in San Francisco came up with the idea of ​​producing pants for gold miners and cowboys from durable, coarse fabric. In 1873, he and Jacob Davis patented the idea of ​​producing canvas work clothes with brass fittings. This year is considered to be the year of the emergence of modern denim trousers.

By the beginning of the 20th century, they penetrated Europe and entered the mass market.

Characteristics and production features

The standard weave is twill, tilted from right to left. The classic thread ratio is three to one.

On the front side there are dyed cotton fibers. This is the basis of the canvas. The reverse side is represented by unpainted “ducks”.

Synthetics are often added to cotton: lycra, elastane, viscose, etc. This is done to reduce the density and rigidity of the product, to give it elasticity.

Fibers are dyed by boiling down natural (indigo) or non-natural dyes.

Jeans in its purest form is a dense and tough material of natural origin. Due to this, it has certain advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of the material

• Wear resistance. Jeans are difficult to tear due to the strong weave of the threads. High quality products will last 10 years or more.
• Hygroscopicity.
• Thermal protection.
• Breathability.
• Lack of electrification and dust holding capacity.
• Jeans practically do not wrinkle.
• Ease of use. The raw materials do not crumble, curl, or stretch during the process of creating the product.
• Variability in type, model and price segments.

If artificial ingredients are added to the product, positive qualities matter weakens.

Disadvantages of the material

• High degree of shrinkage. This is especially noticeable after the first wash. Clothing with added elastane shrinks more than others.
• Paintability. It is better to wash jeans items separately from the rest.
• If an item is not properly cared for, it loses its characteristics and attractiveness (it shrinks, stretches, becomes dull).

Types of fabric

During the development of production technologies, many ways of working with denim have emerged. This is how the following types appeared:

• Denim is the most expensive and quality look. The weaving method is classic, the reverse side is white.
• Jean is a cheap version of denim. It is soft.
• Broken twill. Known as reverse twill or chevron. Characterized by the reverse direction of the hem in the weave (herringbone pattern).
• Eikru, or ecru. It is not dyed and has a natural cotton color.
• Chambray, or shamri. The ratio of threads is 1 to 1. The result is the lightest material. It is used for sewing such wardrobe items as swimsuits, sundresses, shirts, etc.
• Left jeans. In it, the thread goes from left to top.
• Striped. It is distinguished by stripes woven over the main fabric.
• Vintage. Known as Varenka or Vintage Jeans. Stands out with abrasions.
• Luxury The texture is uniform, without the usual scar.

Differences in composition

Often other material, natural or artificial, is added to cotton. This is how the following types of denim are obtained:

• Stretch - the material is as light as shamri. Differs in elastane fibers in its composition. Due to this it stretches well.
• Bonding. A layer of knitwear is added to the cotton fabric. The item turns out warmer and fits pleasantly to the body.
• Linen. The texture of the fabric is simple, has small knots and compactions.
• Silk. Garments made from this fabric have a pleasant matte shine.
• Designer jeans. The main difference is the velvety surface. Achieved by adding elastane. In addition, it contains additional decorative elements. These can be sparkles, inserts, drawings.

Scope of application

The scope of use of this material is not limited to the usual jeans. This fabric is used to sew:

• outfits and casual clothes (pants, jackets, dresses, suits, etc.);
• home wardrobe items and textiles, underwear;
• bags and shoes;
• hats;
• decorative items;
• small accessories (keychains, phone cases).

Compliance with certain conditions guarantees long term denim services. Recommended:

• do not dry clean;
• Before washing, fasten all zippers and pockets;
• wash inside out by hand, machine washable at a temperature of no more than 40 degrees;
• do not use bleaches, which can make the item pale;
• do not squeeze, you can stretch the item with your hands to avoid shrinkage;
• dry in natural conditions, do not overdry;
• Do not iron; if the need arises, this should be done from the wrong side in the “cotton” mode;
• Do not store denim clothes in plastic or vacuum bags (they provoke the appearance of mold).

Customer Reviews

The overall assessment of the material properties is positive. Buyers highly value the versatility of jeans, their durability and ease of wear.

Negative reviews mainly concern cheap items made from this fabric: they often shrink, stretch and tear.

Photo gallery

You must emphasize that the company spent *** thousand rubles on this! - demanded a familiar female voice on the phone.
“There are too many numbers, the audience will get confused,” I tried to object.
- No, Seryozha, you must mention this.
- Why am I obligated? - I was already starting to get excited.
- And from the fact that they pay you money for it! - the female voice almost switched to falsetto.
“They don’t pay me for THIS,” I answered and hung up. This was my last paid story, in which someone else’s point of view was imposed on me. Paid, of course, not to me. Which, in general, did not change the essence. Yes, I once periodically took off my jeans.

“Jeans” are not only specially sewn material. In journalism, this term refers to a paid story. Sometimes this is also called "ordering". No, not advertising at all. Such a report appears in the general news release, but was filmed for money and in the interests of the customer. So that the viewer does not guess that this plot was paid for, it goes without the special interruption required in such cases. At least so that not every viewer can understand. Of course, this violates media and advertising laws. But who cares?

Part of the shares of the Apex-TV television company, in which I then worked, belonged to Evrazholding. Now it is owned by Mr. Abramovich. Before that, Mr. Abramov. There is little difference, as you can see. In addition, in Novokuznetsk, Evrazholding owned two largest metallurgical plants - KMK and ZSMK, and mines in the south of Kuzbass. Enterprises required modernization, which cost a lot of money. And the mines were completely unprofitable. But it was impossible to fire all the workers at once - this meant a social revolt. Therefore, they were fired gradually. Money was invested from time to time. And so that there would be no rebellion, the population was told about each such investment. Including through the television company where I worked at that time.

I had to travel to metallurgical plants. But most of all I had to travel around the mines. I fell in love with the press service of the company that was responsible for them - Evrazruda (a subsidiary of Evrazholding). A corrupt journalist, you say? Formally, you have every right. But we had an unspoken agreement with the press service. At least that's what I thought. They come up with an informational reason. And I shoot the way I see it. As a journalist, I visited all the mines and more than once all these small villages and towns in the south of Kuzbass - in Kaz, Tashtagol, Sheregesh.

Informational reasons were sometimes stupid. One day we were invited to film a story about exceeding the plan before the New Year. It looked like this: against the backdrop of a shabby Christmas tree, the miners were presented with certificates. For exceeding the plan. Without exaggeration, this is exactly what it looked like. Well, you can’t make a report out of this. Well, honestly, no one is interested in this. Surely, if you saw such a picture, you would immediately change the channel. Let’s go down into the mine and film the miners at work, I said, quietly swearing to myself, not because we needed to go down, but because the press service was not prepared. And at the same time, I was thinking about how this plot could be turned around. And as a result, I descended to such a depth where even the miners themselves did not work. I stood in the mine shaft at the lowest level on a thin sheet of tin. And he talked about the working conditions. And under this sheet of iron there was emptiness. Water was pouring from above. And the cameraman, as I remember now, did not dare to join me, so I wrote the stand-up below, and he filmed from above. How I got there, I won’t tell you all these extreme details. And all this for the sake of “jeans”.

I am in no way trying to make any special excuses. Yes, I shot jeans. I shot custom stories. I was just trying to somehow turn these stories from “custom” into informational and interesting for the viewer. And most importantly - honest. I have mastered allegorical language perfectly. Because a custom story cannot show an inconvenient truth. But you can give a hint. Yes, I also mastered the technique of hints. One good thing about all these techniques is that those who ordered the plots do not understand them. But the bad thing is that not all viewers recognize these hints. Of course, I also shot regular reports. After all, “jeans” is not an everyday task. But sometimes they are also “denim”. And then Internews happened in my life.

After I graduated from Internews, when I arrived, I immediately announced that I would not shoot jeans anymore. The editor was fuming and screaming. He shouted that he would fire me. No, he didn’t say anything to my face. They told me about this.

I'll be honest, I didn't keep my word. I shot several more custom stories. But I forgot how to hint. Or maybe I’m just tired of hinting. And they probably figured me out. And after that there was this phone call. Lena Kobeleva called. Evrazruda press service employee. I once worked with her at the city newspaper "Frant". I was then in charge of the youth editorial office. And she was still young and promising, but already an experienced journalist. But then she went to the press service. And we had a good relationship. But after the phrase “They pay you money for this,” I didn’t listen any further and hung up. And not at all because I really wasn’t paid separately for these stories. I then thought only of one thing: Lena, how does this happen, after all, just a year and a half ago you were a journalist like me, and now we speak different languages...

Then Lena’s boss, Zhenya Friedrich, called and apologized. I know why. The unspoken agreement was based on this: they give me relative freedom in exchange for my experience. But I stopped going to the mines. And soon he quit altogether and left the city.

After moving from Novokuznetsk, I shot jeans a couple more times. And you can throw tomatoes at me again. Once - working at my favorite television company "TV-2". I learned that the plot was “custom” only after I had already filmed it. Producer Lena Izofatova did not warn me in advance. And I can guess why. She most likely thought that after this I would refuse to go to the shoot. But in this case, one way or another, I didn’t have to adapt to anyone. It was an editorial task, there was an informational occasion. No one influenced how I talk about this. It also happened in the second case - already in the Russian News Service. Congress of the Patriots of Russia party. There is no need to praise, they told me right away. All I had to do was tell him what I saw. And I told you. Apparently. Now the main thing for this party is at least a mention.

During all this time, “jeans” have not disappeared anywhere. On the contrary, it has become an integral part of Russian journalism. And now, watching federal channels, I can say with 99% certainty whether the story is custom-made or not. How much does such pleasure cost? In those days, with my salary of seven and a half thousand, one story I filmed brought the television company 60 thousand. I know this for sure; official papers were passed through me a couple of times. You can try to index it to current salaries. This was called “information cooperation” back then. Now. I think it's somewhat similar.

You shouldn't judge journalists who film "jeans" harshly. Everyone judges journalists. And I’ll tell you honestly, few of them like such “orders”. Well, if only someone who has people, horses and, perhaps, hamsters mixed in his head. No one judges editors-in-chief or channel owners. No one judges the advertising and information committees or the prosecutor's office. But everyone knows and understands everything perfectly. And they even order. You think. The prosecutor's office doesn't buy jeans? Maybe not for money, but he buys it. Whoever needs it knows about it all. In the end, “jeans” is broadcast at the highest level - on federal channels. However, on federal channels there are also things that are shown in comparison with which “jeans” are petty amusements.

I've been wanting to write about this for a long time. I wanted to, but didn’t dare. And I know very well that much of what is written is known. But perhaps not everyone knows. Now you can obstruct me.

Other definitions of advertising

Advertising is paid, non-personalized communication carried out by an identified sponsor and using the media with the aim of persuading (to something) or influencing (somehow) an audience.

Narrower definitions are also used, for example, limited only to goods and services. Sometimes the definition includes such a feature as commercial interests.

Advertising task- encourage representatives target audience to action (selecting a product or service, making a purchase, etc., as well as forming conclusions about the object of advertising planned by the advertiser).

Types of advertising

According to the legislation of the Russian Federation according to the object of advertising

• commercial advertising
• social advertising aimed at achieving charitable and other socially beneficial goals, as well as ensuring the interests of the state
• political advertising (including election advertising)

Private advertisements, that is, advertisements individuals or legal entities, not related to business activities, in accordance with the Law on Advertising (Article 2, paragraph 6) are not considered as advertising.

By location and method of placement

Specific types of advertising by purpose

• Counter-advertising is a refutation of inappropriate advertising. In the Russian Federation it is provided as a punishment for inappropriate advertising
• Anti-advertising is information designed not to raise, but to reduce interest, or to discredit goods, enterprises, trademarks. In Russia it is prohibited by advertising law.

Regulation

In advertising, various financial and political interests inevitably collide. The consumer is interested in reducing the amount of advertising and reducing its intrusiveness. The manufacturer, on the contrary, is interested in increasing both the amount of advertising and audience coverage.

The interests of society as a whole require that consumers be protected from false and deceptive advertising. The same interests dictate the need to stimulate sales, the main means of which is advertising. The contradiction of these interests requires detailed regulation. Advertising legislation in all countries represents a compromise between the above interests.

Advertising: Pros and Cons

For

Against

Story

Advertising in the USSR

But, despite the politicization, despite the planned economy, commercial advertising still occupied a prominent place in the USSR. Most advertising was published during the NEP. But in other periods, advertising was also created and distributed.

The proverbial advertising slogan “ Fly with Aeroflot aircraft" - not only due to the prevalence of this advertising, but also because of its dubious commercial value - Aeroflot was the only air carrier in the country, so the text sounded somewhat ironic (although the essence of this slogan was not in competition with absent alternative airlines, but in competition with by rail and road transport).

Those who lived in Soviet times probably remember other catchphrases from advertising:

• “Nowhere except in Mosselprom”
• “I saved up and bought a car”

and others.

Notes

See also