What to do if the VAZ engine does not pull? Why the diesel engine does not pull or the reasons why the engine does not develop full power Reasons why the engine does not pull

Sometimes product owners domestic auto industry are faced with a situation where the injection engine in a VAZ 2114 does not work. This problem is not uncommon, so we will try to carefully understand the reasons for the “weakness” of the engine and eliminate them ourselves.

List of possible causes of power loss

Not every driver, even an experienced one, can quickly answer the question: why the thrust of the VAZ 2114 engine with 8 valves disappeared the first time.

To do this, you need to consider all possible sources of failure:

  • debris entering the gasoline filter;
  • clogged fuel pump diaphragm;
  • malfunction of the sensor that controls air flow;
  • poor spark plug performance;
  • ECU malfunction ( electronic unit engine control);
  • dustiness air filter;
  • clogged injectors;
  • complete wear of the clutch disc;
  • insufficient compression in the cylinders.

Analysis of the causes of poor engine traction and possible repairs

Fuel filter dirty

This may be due to low-quality gasoline (containing various small debris) or infrequent cleaning of the fuel tank. In this case, you will have to completely replace the entire filter system.


Fuel pump diaphragm clogged

The cause of the blockage, as a rule, is low-quality gasoline. To clean it, just remove the diaphragm and rinse it thoroughly or blow it with air.


Malfunction of the sensor that controls air flow

This is the most common reason why the VAZ 2114 does not work.

Signs of malfunction:

  • engine speed too high or low idling;
  • intermittent engine idling;
  • disturbed acceleration dynamics. The car becomes uncontrollable and often freezes.

It is worth periodically checking the operating condition of the air flow meter to avoid wasting time and money diagnosing the engine.

Air filter dust

The more the filter is clogged with dust, the less air flows to the engine, therefore, the thrust decreases. What can be done in this case? Ideally, the filter should be replaced with a new one, but if this is not possible, you should remove the filter, tap and blow to remove large debris (flies, dry leaves, insects).


Clogged injectors

If the injector nozzles are clogged, you will have to go to a service station for ultrasonic cleaning, or purchase special liquid for cleaning.

Auto mechanics advise purchasing only high-quality injector cleaning products, for example, Wynn’s (Vince), LIQUI MOLY, Carbon Clean.


The procedure itself is quite simple: the cleaning agent needs to be poured into the gas tank. But this method can only help if fuel system not very dirty. An engine with several hundred thousand kilometers will most likely need complete replacement injectors.

Complete wear of the clutch disc

You can determine disk wear by the following signs:

  • the pedal is easily “recessed”, but does not return;
  • the clutch slips;
  • when the clutch is engaged, a noticeable vibration occurs;
  • it is impossible to disengage the clutch.


There is another way to check wear: if you try to move off in fourth gear and the engine stalls, then there are no problems with the disc. If the engine continues to run, then the clutch disc will probably have to be replaced.

Poor spark plug performance

There are several signs by which you can identify a faulty spark plug:

  • at idle the engine makes an unpleasant noise;
  • a sharp press on the gas causes power failures;
  • the engine runs unevenly;
  • increased fuel consumption with reduced power;
  • the spark plugs are filled with gasoline.


Visual inspection of the spark plugs can also help identify the problem. If the candle is covered with dark oil, has a gloss or velvety soot, then this clearly indicates problems.

Defective spark plugs must be replaced with new ones.

Insufficient compression in cylinders

This defect appears due to high wear of the entire cylinder-piston system. As a result, the car owner notices that oil consumption increases, the combustible mixture does not burn completely, and fuel enters the crankcase. This problem is serious and can be solved either by replacing piston rings, or complete engine repair at the station maintenance.


Malfunction of the electronic engine control unit (ECU)

There may be several signs of an ECU malfunction:

  • various mechanical damages on it;
  • lack of indicators from various system control sensors;
  • absence of control signals for the fuel pump, vehicle idle system and other mechanisms controlled by the ECU.


Unfortunately, this device cannot be repaired in most cases. Even service station specialists will offer to simply replace the ECU with a new one after carrying out diagnostics.

In conclusion

The article lists all possible reasons for which the VAZ 2114 does not pull. Every car enthusiast can analyze them independently and understand the reason for poor engine traction. This will save a significant amount of money compared to the cost of diagnostics at a service center.

Often, beginners and other drivers are interested in why the car does not accelerate or pull. Typically, this problem is related to the engine. At the first sign of a malfunction, it is advisable to carry out detailed diagnostics engine. This will save you from a long search for a breakdown. Almost anything can cause the engine to lack traction.

Owners of new cars often encounter this. If diagnostics fail to identify the problem, you will have to suffer a little. It is connected and will last for 5000 km. This most often occurs in models for which components are assembled in China.


Wear of parts

Why doesn't the car accelerate or pull? In some cases this may be due to high level engine wear. Usually seen on fairly old machines. Most often, the rings suffer, and as a result, compression decreases. Therefore, the first thing to do when reducing power is. If the indicator is less than 11 in at least one cylinder, then a major overhaul of the engine will have to be done.

Sometimes a decrease in engine power indicates the presence of carbon deposits on the valves; this can only be checked by removing the cylinder head. Indirect signs:
  • Changing the ratio of gases in the exhaust;
  • The "check" is lit on the panel.
To fix this, you will have to clean the valves. After this work everything should be back to normal.

Filters

The car often jerks due to lack of fuel. Every car has fuel filters. Usually there are two. The coarse filter is either located in the fuel pump, or it is embedded in the hose. A fine filter is installed in front of the injector. If any of these cleaning devices become clogged, sufficient fuel cannot reach the injector. Which in turn dramatically reduces the efficiency of the car.


Often in summer air filter clogged. In this case, the mixture turns out to be poorly enriched with oxygen, and the fuel does not burn completely. As a result, there is again a loss of power. To avoid such problems, you need to replace filter elements in a timely manner.

Ignition

A modern engine is quite sensitive to ignition operation. An incorrect gap on the spark plug electrodes can lead to failures in engine operation. And, accordingly, to a decrease in engine power. Therefore always. You also need to check their performance on a special stand. This can also be done in a simple but reliable way.

To do this, the candle is unscrewed. A high-voltage wire is placed on it, after which the engine is cranked with the starter. The quality of the spark is determined visually. It should be white and blue. If the spark is red or yellow, it is considered poor quality. You should look for a problem in the ignition system. Most likely, this will be the cause of the loss of power.

Diagnostics

For a more precise definition of the problem, it is advisable. This procedure will help identify problems with sensors and power system operation. To do this, you will need a laptop with a special program. Having deciphered the readings, you need to begin troubleshooting. Most often, the reasons may be the following:

  • Malfunction of the crankshaft position sensor. With this malfunction, the “Check engine” usually lights up. The reduction in power occurs due to a mismatch between the pulse supplied to the engine control unit and the actual position of the crankshaft. As a result, incomplete combustion of the fuel occurs, and the engine efficiency decreases;
  • . This problem can also affect engine power;
  • The reason may be due to. In this case, the “check” will not light up. Therefore, in any case, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics.

Conclusion. As you can see, there are enough reasons for the problem and they are all quite diverse. No auto mechanic can tell offhand why the car doesn’t accelerate or pull. In any case, you will have to carry out careful and painstaking work to diagnose and find the causes of the malfunction.

Probably, any driver has encountered such a problem when the car has lost its former dynamics: it takes a long time to accelerate, and when climbing, it completely refuses to move in higher gears. In this article we will tell you in detail what to do if the VAZ engine does not pull or pulls poorly, we will look at the main causes and troubleshooting methods.

Conditionally all types gasoline engines can be divided into gasoline and injection. In general, their principle of operation is absolutely the same, but the factors that affect engine power become different. Let's consider the problem of carburetor and injection engine separately.

VAZ carburetor engine does not pull

A carburetor is a mechanical device designed to create a mixture of air and gasoline, with further supply of this mixture into the combustion chamber of the engine. Problems with a lack of engine power at the carburetor are quite common and there are many reasons for them. We will try to deal with each one.

  • Engine power system

First of all, the loss of engine power may be hidden behind the power system. As a rule, the engine does not pull due to a lack or excess of fuel. The fact is that gasoline and air are mixed in a certain ratio. And if one or another element is missing, the motor will begin to work unstably and will stop developing the required power.

The ratio of air to fuel should be within 15 to 1. If the amount of gasoline exceeds the permissible parameters, then it will not burn completely, which means it will reduce engine response. In addition, such a change in ratios will seriously increase fuel consumption and subsequently lead to other engine malfunctions.

An insufficient amount of fuel even leads to “starvation”. The ignition of the air-fuel mixture will be insufficient and the piston will move slowly. All this is achieved correct setting carburetor, precise selection of jets and many other factors.

It starts with the selection of jets. An important condition is to have a larger nozzle for air than a nozzle for gasoline. Then the carburetor float chamber is adjusted, which should only be half filled with gasoline. After this, the car engine starts and the quantity and quality of fuel is adjusted in accordance with the technical literature on this model carburetor If, at the same time, a stable speed is achieved within the range of 800-900 rpm, then the carburetor adjustment was successful.

Another link in the food system is the presence of clean air and fuel filters. If the filters are too dirty, then fuel or air will pass through with great difficulty, which also disrupts the composition of the mixture. Therefore, filters must always be kept clean.

Check also. It is possible that it does not open completely. In this case, stop the motor and adjust the position throttle valve.

It is also quite possible that the fuel pump has stopped creating the required pressure. To do this, you need to remove it and check it. It is quite possible that the drive and its diaphragm will have to be changed. There is another very common malfunction - increased wear of the fuel pump rod. This means that when manually it pumps perfectly, but when you start the engine it works for a short time, then it loses power and the engine stalls.

  • Valve assembly

The gas distribution mechanism also plays an important role in maintaining engine power. If the valves, due to wear, have lost their tightness, then gases will break through from the combustion chamber directly into the valve mechanism. All this reduces the pressure created in the engine cylinders, so the pistons move noticeably slower.

To restore the tightness of the valves, it is necessary to grind them in and adjust them correctly. The essence of the adjustment is to set the thermal gaps in their impact mechanism. The size of the gaps is indicated in the reference literature for the car engine.

In addition, the valve train must operate in synchronization with the engine crankshaft. If the opening and closing of the valves does not correspond to the position of the piston, the engine will not only pull poorly, but may not start at all.

  • Ignition system

Perhaps the decisive factor. Sparking must occur only in strictly specified cycles, otherwise the motor will not only pull poorly, but may also overheat and operate very, very unstable. If the adjustment of the OZ was successful, but the motor still does not pull, but idle speed It works completely unstable, so it makes sense to check the ignition system as a whole.

On contactless system ignition, you need to make sure that the switch is working properly. To do this, turn on the ignition and monitor the position of the voltmeter needle: first it should deviate to 12 Volts, and after a second it should rise even higher. If the Voltmeter is not provided by the design of your car, then replace the switch with a known good one and check the ignition operation again.

First of all, pay attention to the cleanliness and tightness of the contacts in the distributor. If everything is in order, you can move on. Start the engine and pull out one by one high voltage wires. After each wire, listen to how the motor operates. If it starts to work even worse, then there is a spark in this cylinder. If engine performance has not changed, this means that you have found a faulty spark plug or high-voltage cable. This assumption can be verified by replacing the element with a known good one.

Incorrect use of spark plugs also affects engine performance. Most often, the difference between spark plugs lies in the gaps between the electrodes. The gap size must correspond to the engine, the season of operation of the vehicle and the spark plug model.

Check the ignition distributor. It is quite possible that a resistor located in the rotor circuit burned out. Another problem is the loose contact of the contact carbon. Try replacing it or the spring.

The last ignition problem is the unclear operation of the octane corrector. If there is no required vacuum, the special plate does not return to starting position. In addition, there is increased play in the system. Fix it and replace any faulty parts. Check the hose for leaks.

The last and most terrible malfunction is this. These elements are designed to reduce friction of the piston against the walls of the engine cylinder and remove residual oil so that it does not enter the engine combustion chamber.

Failure of the rings entails a violation of the tightness of the combustion chamber, and therefore the cylinder compression is seriously reduced. This can be determined by increased consumption oils and corresponding color exhaust gases. In this case, only serious engine repair will help.

  • Faulty exhaust system

The exhaust part of the car also plays an important role in creating the required pressure in the engine cylinders. If this pressure difference between the inlet and outlet is disturbed, the engine thrust may noticeably decrease. In this case, check whether the exhaust system is dirty: the pipes must be removed and inspected. Special attention pay attention to the exhaust pipe. If there are any holes in it, it will lose its seal and become unusable.

If there are any extra holes or damage in the resonator, pipes or muffler, they must be replaced without fail.

The injection engine pulls poorly

Part of the faults carburetor engine can be safely attributed to injection malfunctions. This applies to the timing mechanism, filters, ignition system, exhaust and piston group engine.

  • Gasoline pump malfunction

The main feature of the injection engine is the presence of an electric gasoline pump. It represents electric motor, which creates a vacuum and pumps the fuel system with the required amount of fuel.

Affects the stability of engine speed. After all, if it works intermittently, then gasoline will be supplied in the appropriate quantity. Most often, the electrical wiring, fuel pump relay or contact group electrical circuit. In this case, it is necessary to diagnose and repair the faulty fuel pump.

Another problem with the fuel pump is increased contamination of its filter. Measure the outlet pressure and compare it with the normalized values. If the measurement result does not correspond to the reference values, the fuel pump filter must be cleaned.

  • Nozzles (injectors)

A nozzle is called a small solenoid valve, which at certain times sprays the air-fuel mixture into the combustion chamber of the engine. Engine power also depends on the correct operation of the injectors.

Diagnosis of their serviceability is carried out using a multimeter. To do this, you need to check the resistance of the windings for open circuits and short circuit. If a malfunction is detected, the injectors must be replaced.

  • Faulty sensors

Sensors are the main collector of information for the operation of the electronic control unit. If one of the sensors malfunctions, the controller, without receiving necessary information, instantly puts the motor into emergency mode with the corresponding lamp turned on dashboard engine.

A faulty sensor can be identified by performing electronic diagnostics at a service station and replaced.

  • Malfunction of the ECU itself

The electronic control unit may also malfunction. To check its functionality, you need to replace it with a known good one and check the operation of the engine. The voltage supplied to the unit should be 12 Volts.

Video - The engine does not pull at low speeds, the car does not go uphill

If the car does not show its former power and traction, you will not get any pleasure from driving. Moreover, often the consumption of gasoline or diesel fuel grows, the risk of failure of any units increases. The car owner intuitively understands that something is wrong in the design of the vehicle. Therefore, there is a desire to check the car, find the cause of the defect and get specific solutions to the problem. Today we will talk about why the car does not pull, and also what needs to be done in such situations, where you should look first. If you encounter such a problem suddenly, it is worth quickly diagnosing the main components of the machine, identifying the problem and eliminating the cause of the loss of power. If the problem has been present for a long time, it’s time to go to a service station and solve this issue.

If you drive for a long time with most of the problems that cause loss of traction, you can completely ruin power unit and end up needing expensive repairs. So we strongly recommend that you immediately pay attention to a noticeable loss of engine power or a real feeling that someone is holding you by the exhaust pipe and doesn't let you accelerate. The longer you think it will go away over time, the more damage you can do to your car. This will also cause excessively expensive repairs in the long run. Let's consider the main reasons for this phenomenon.

Stop driving with the handbrake, and traction will appear by itself

If you always park your car hand brake, but forget to remove it while driving, get ready for impaired traction. When driving with the handbrake, you get the feeling that the car accelerates very slowly and it is too difficult to gain momentum. The driver immediately puts pressure on the engine, putting pressure on the suspension or gearbox. But he can’t even think that it’s enough to lower the handbrake lever for the problem to solve itself. Moreover, driving with the handbrake for quite a long time will cause the following troubles with the car:

  • the rear brake discs (or drums, depending on the design of the car) become too hot;
  • heating sometimes causes deformation or excessive wear of these parts with various consequences;
  • wear in any case will be very high and will become the reason for the mandatory replacement of the pads and disc after 100 kilometers of such a trip;
  • the drum brake may even fall apart during movement, reducing the safety of the trip;
  • Heat and excessive friction can cause failure of some chassis parts;
  • The brake system may also develop other problems that require immediate attention.

These are the kind of troubles that await you if you simply forget to remove the handbrake lever to its original position before moving off. If you have a manual transmission, keeping an eye on the handbrake becomes even more difficult. With an automatic transmission, it is enough not to accelerate from the first second, but to let the car show its readiness for the trip, let it start idling. If you regularly leave the handbrake on, just stop using the handbrake. Leave it in gear, choose more or less level parking spots.

We check the most common reasons for decreased cravings

Reduced engine power can also be caused by other problems. For example, if you carried out independent conversion of the main components and parts of the machine, you can be sure that the traction will decrease. It is also worth paying attention to the frequency of service and the quality of the purchased fuel. If you haven't changed the oil in your car for several years or tens of thousands of kilometers, the wear and tear on engine parts will be incredible. You will have to restore the unit, and loss of traction means that you have very little time left for repair and maintenance work. The main reasons for loss of traction are as follows:

  • bad fuel - if the gasoline is terrible, it simply does not burn out completely and does not provide the required power;
  • poor quality and poor frequency of engine maintenance, which caused wear of the main parts;
  • increased wear of the piston group, poor engine efficiency and loss of power due to natural processes;
  • depressurization of one of the cylinders, low compression due to large gaps between parts;
  • failure electrical system, spark plugs, wires and sensors, failure of one or two cylinders;
  • transition to alternative fuels, including gas, which naturally reduces the efficiency of the unit;
  • installing wheels with a significantly larger diameter than were installed at the factory and replacing other important parts of the machine;
  • performing engine overhauls using analog spare parts.

All of these processes cause a decrease in cravings, which is the main indicator that you need to do something quickly. Otherwise, you will have to look for how to sell a car that is not quite working and how to buy a more or less normal one with the proceeds. It is better not to let this happen and at the first appearance of problems with traction, bring life back to your iron horse. A loss of engine power should be an indicator that action needs to be taken.

Why is it better to solve the problem with traction at a service station?

Of course, if poor traction is due to a forgotten handbrake or bad fuel, no service will help you. Unless you need to eliminate the problems of increased wear brake discs. In other cases, it is better to immediately contact a service station and not experiment with independent repair options. This way you can restore your car in a short time, without having to check possible theories of failure. The main benefits of service in this case for professionals will be the following:

  • specialists will find the cause of the problem and will be able to completely restore normal operation;
  • the service will recommend that you change your driving habits so that you don’t end up in this situation in the future;
  • The company will purchase all spare parts independently, which reduces the risk of purchasing low-quality parts;
  • diagnostics will show the exact part that is worth restoring, which can often save you money;
  • The repair will be carried out professionally, you will be given a guarantee for the serviceability of the repaired unit.

This important advantages Have your car serviced by specialists, so it’s better not to neglect them and get maximum comfort in operating your car. You will often have to overpay for expensive professional services, but this overpayment will definitely pay for itself. After completing the repair at a good station, you will not have to worry about possible repeated problems with traction. However, the health of a car in most cases depends on the driver’s behavior and habits on the road. Therefore, if a certain problem constantly arises in your car, just change your driving style. If you have domestic car, you can watch the following video with a description possible problems when the car loses traction:

Let's sum it up

Considering the rather complex design system modern car, the loss of traction may not be felt as much or even at all in daily use. But this is a serious indicator that it’s time to complete a certain set repair work. Therefore, it is better to listen to the car and try to determine its real problems. If a loss of power is noticed, it is best to immediately go to a service station and fix the problem. This is the only way you can avoid serious damage with quite costly consequences.

If your car has lost power for a long time, you shouldn’t think that this is a natural process of car aging. It is better to set a goal and eliminate all possible causes of this problem. However, loss of power can indeed be a natural process. Major repairs, replacement original parts analog and other familiar processes for the car owner are real problem for the operation of the unit. Tell me, have you encountered a sudden loss of power in your car, and how was it decided to deal with this problem?

Self-diagnosis: causes of low engine power

Poor maintenance can result in reduced engine power.

Low engine power usually means that your engine lacks power during acceleration or that your engine suddenly cannot reach normal driving speed. While low engine power can mean that normal wear and tear is gradually taking away a significant portion of your vehicle's power, this guide is concerned with abnormal power loss - a failure caused by a system or component not working properly due to a malfunction or lack of adequate maintenance.

A low engine power condition can be caused by one or more of a long list of components that require attention. Fortunately, you can narrow the list down somewhat by knowing that some of the most common causes of engine power loss are fuel, ignition, or emissions related.

Whether you're dealing with a faulty part or lack of proper maintenance, the following tests and strategies will help you get your engine back to life. The tests apply to various systems, specific faults and conditions that are known to reduce engine power. Finally, you are reminded of some important diagnostics that may apply to your specific case. Each component or condition mentioned includes a “What You Can Do” section so that you can take some action when you deem it necessary.

Systems that can cause low engine power

We will look at the systems in order:

  1. Ignition system
  2. Fuel system
  3. Exhaust system
  4. Computer system
  5. Vacuum leaks
  6. Gearbox or clutch
  7. Exhaust system
  8. Compression

But first I'm going to list some very simple checks things you should do before you start testing.

Four checks you should do

Here are some important but simple checks to consider first.

  1. If you notice immediately after some work has been done on your car, make sure everything is connected back. Check for loose hoses, disconnected electrical connectors and loose bolts, and if fluids have been changed, see if suitable oil for engine or gearbox.
  2. . At insufficient pressure your tires will wear out faster, and your car will consume more fuel to accelerate the car. Check tire pressure with a tire pressure gauge when the tires are cold. Inflate your tires 1-3 psi. An inch below maximum pressure indicated on the sidewalls of the tires.
  3. Even if (CEL) didn't catch fire. You may have some pending code that will help you determine the cause of the problem. A faulty sensor or actuator can cause car computer(or transmission) will receive signals with the wrong voltage, causing the computer to change the air-fuel mixture and rob your engine (or transmission) of power. Whatever codes you find, always check the circuit or components listed in the trouble code. It is possible that the error may cause the computer to "think" that another circuit or component is faulty. On some models vehicles faulty position sensor camshaft(CMP) can cause a sudden loss of engine power - the computer will likely set a code if it detects a problem with this sensor.
  4. Many GM vehicles are equipped with a Reduced Engine Power (REP) warning light, similar to the Check Engine Light (CEL). When this light (or both lights) turns on, you will notice that the engine barely responds to the accelerator. This is a scary situation if the problem occurs while driving on the highway or in heavy traffic. The most common indications of this warning light are the harness connecting the throttle position sensor (TPS) or the TPS itself. Other problems that may cause the REP light to come on are related to the throttle body (including wiring), oxygen sensor, accelerator pedal position sensor (or wiring harness), or.

Testing eight systems that can cause low engine power

Now, here are eight systems that typically help reduce energy consumption, and how you can check them yourself.

Worn or dirty plugs will slow down the engine.

Ignition system

Sluggish engine behavior can often be traced back to worn or faulty parts in the ignition system. Several components in the system require maintenance at regular intervals. For example, spark plugs and spark plug wires, but you should also check the ignition coil and ignition timing. If any of these components cause you to not get a good spark, the engine will not develop full power.

What you can do: When you feel that the engine is not pulling, one of the first checks should be to check the spark strength. Use an adjustable spark tester (Thexton is an acceptable brand) to check spark quality. Check at 40 kV and 30 kV. If your spark can't get past this gap with these settings, you may have worn wires, a weak or faulty distributor, a bad ignition coil, or a bad ignition control module, depending on your specific module. Check the following tests and refer to your vehicle's repair manual for the correct diagnosis for your specific model. If you don't have the manufacturer's service manual, I highly recommend getting an aftermarket manual for your exact model.

When visually inspecting ignition system components such as distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, look for carbon traces, carbon buildup, and damage (oxidation). Carbon traces look like little lines that form around these components. They can cut off the voltage running through the system, depriving the spark plugs of the voltage they need to produce a good spark. Replace them if necessary.

After checking the spark strength, check the following individual system components, if necessary.

Spark plugs

Spark plugs can become contaminated with carbon deposits and other chemical by-products, especially if the vehicle is not serviced according to the suggested schedule.

Dirty spark plugs cannot provide a sufficient spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture. In addition, with a long mileage, the gap between the spark contact electrodes will increase due to wear.

What you can do: Carry out a visual inspection of the spark plugs, check the gap between the electrodes using a feeler gauge and adjust it if necessary. Your vehicle's shop or repair manual will provide the appropriate spark plug gap. Your service manual can help you analyze your spark plugs, which can tell you a lot about the health of your engine.

Just like spark plugs, spark plug wires wear out and after many miles of driving they can prevent a spark from reaching the spark plugs.

What you can do: Test the resistance of each wire using a digital multimeter (DMM) and compare your readings to the specifications in your repair manual. Typically you need about 5000 ohms per foot of wire. Otherwise, replace them with a quality wire set.

Ignition coil

The ignition coil produces high voltage, necessary for the spark to jump in the gap between the spark plug electrodes. This voltage typically ranges from 4,000 to 30,000 volts, depending on the specific vehicle model.

Ignition coils also wear out or fail, resulting in a weak spark, an intermittent spark, or no spark at all.

What you can do: You can test your vehicle's ignition coil(s) with a digital multimeter using your vehicle's repair manual.

Ignition time

Ignition timing refers to the relationship between the spark and the position of the piston in the cylinder during the power stroke.

The ignition timing must be correct for proper combustion of the air-fuel mixture. When the ignition is retarded, you may notice increased fuel consumption, decreased engine power, and poor acceleration.

Timing problems can occur due to a worn (overstretched) or damaged timing belt or chain. Even 2 or 3 degrees of difference from the correct time can lead to problems with engine operation.

On most modern cars The ignition timing cannot be adjusted directly, but you can still check the timing yourself. On older models, you can check and adjust the time yourself.

What you can do: Check the ignition timing using the timing indicator and tachometer. If your ignition system uses a distributor, you can adjust the timing yourself if necessary. Refer to your vehicle's repair manual. Your manual may also specify the service interval for the belt or chain.

A clogged air filter will reduce engine power.

Fuel system

Although modern systems Fuel injection systems can have different configurations, but they all have many common components, such as fuel injectors, control modules and sensors. Any of these components can fail and cause your engine to lose power.

The fuel system can give you just as much trouble as the ignition system. When the engine is not running, there are some parts that you should check.

The engine stops pulling, possibly due to the fuel filter

Over time, the fuel filter becomes clogged, which reduces fuel consumption and prevents the engine from accelerating properly or causes the engine to lose power.

What you can do: Check your vehicle's owner's manual or repair manual for a fuel filter maintenance schedule. Even if your filter is not the root cause of the problem, replacing the filter at the manufacturer's recommended interval will take the stress off your fuel pump and increase its life.

The engine does not develop full power, you need to check the air filter

When the engine is running, the air filter in the air cleaning system captures dirt, dust and other foreign particles and removes them from the air flow entering the engine. Eventually, the filter becomes clogged. And a severely clogged air filter will make your engine work much harder. You will notice this in the form of such an effect as the engine pulls poorly or the engine power has dropped sharply.

What you can do: Most car manufacturers recommend every 12 months. Therefore, be sure to check the air filter and replace it if necessary. Refer to your vehicle's owner's manual or repair manual.

Poor engine draft, check fuel injectors

The most common problem with fuel injectors leading to loss of engine power is clogging. But they can also fail.

What you can do:

  • On throttle body injectors (TBI), you can check the injector's fuel spray pattern by removing the cover from the air filter housing. Fuel atomization should be an even and partial spray, following an inverted V pattern. You can add a fuel additive to clear a slightly clogged injector, or take it to your shop for service. However, if the internal valve in the injector has failed and is not simply clogged, you will need to replace it.
  • In a multiport fuel injection system, dirty or clogged injectors are more difficult to detect. Depending on the configuration of your particular system, you may find it relatively easy to disconnect each of the injectors from their port to check their spray pattern. In other systems, disassembly is a more complex process.

If you suspect dirty injectors or haven't had your injection system serviced in a while, try adding a fuel additive to your system. fuel tank. Otherwise, you may have to take the vehicle in for an injector balance test, which measures the amount of fuel each injector sprays when power is applied.

The engine power has dropped, we are looking for the cause in the Throttle valve

Throttle valve malfunctions are not common, but they do happen.

What you can do: You can quickly check the throttle body to make sure that the valve - the throttle plate - opens fully when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed.

  • Remove the air ducts or air filter box cover to gain access to the throttle body.
  • Have an assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal with the engine off.
  • Make sure the throttle responds appropriately to the pedal.
  • If not, adjust or fix the throttle linkage or remove carbon deposits from the valve and throttle bore. Building up may also interfere proper operation valve

The engine does not develop power, check the fuel pressure regulator

A faulty fuel pressure regulator can allow too much fuel into the engine or too little, causing poor engine thrust.

What you can do: Check the fuel pressure using a pressure gauge. Checking may indicate problems with fuel pump (low pressure or low volume), clogged fuel filter or a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

The exact procedure may vary from one engine model to another, but the general steps are the same:

  • Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (this is a test fitting similar to air valve on your tires). If your model does not come with this valve, you can still connect the sensor directly to the fuel line using adapters (see Repair Manual).
  • Then follow the steps in your repair or service manual and compare the readings to the specifications.

A faulty EGR valve can reduce engine power.

The reason the engine does not pull is in the exhaust gas emission system

Another possible, although not common, cause of loss of engine power during acceleration is a malfunctioning exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve.

The EGR valve allows the measured amount of exhaust gases at more high speed engine idle speed re-enter the engine to reduce it high temperature and harmful emissions.

When an EGR valve fails, it can become stuck open or closed. If the valve is stuck (or intermittently stuck), opening, or not working properly, the most common symptoms you will notice is a rough idle and failures during acceleration, but other times you'll simply notice a lack of engine power when you step on the accelerator.

What you can do: You can check the EGR valve at home using a hand-held vacuum pump.

Computer system

As part of the computer system, both the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor and the manifold air flow (MAF) sensor influence the computer-controlled air-fuel mixture. Typically, the car computer stores a fault code in memory when a fault is detected by any of the sensors.

What you can do: even if the indicator Check Engine off, it is recommended to scan your computer for any pending trouble codes. The most common problem with MAF sensors is a dirty sensor element. You can clean it with electronic contact cleaner or MAF cleaner. Whether your car has a MAP or MAF sensor, you can test it at home. Refer to your vehicle's repair manual.

Vacuum leaks can affect engine power.

Vacuum leaks or why engine power loss occurs

The leak could be due to a loose, damaged or broken vacuum hose, a blown gasket, or a damaged throttle body gasket.

What you can do: A common technique for detecting vacuum leaks is to use a rubber hose:

  • Start the engine and let it idle.
  • Using a rubber hose, place one end of the hose over your ear and the other end to audition different vacuum hoses.
  • Trace the hoses with your diagnostic hose
  • Check around the edge of the intake manifold and throttle body gaskets.

A leaking vacuum hose or gasket will make a hissing sound that you can hear through the rubber hose. Just be careful with moving engine parts when troubleshooting vacuum hoses.

Gearbox or clutch

If you have an automatic transmission and haven't checked transmission fluid Lately, it's time to do it. If you have a manual transmission, the clutch may be slipping.

A common symptom of low or contaminated oil is automatic transmission gear is slipping. Your engine is running, but your car is not moving. Power is not sent to the wheels, making it seem like your engine is lacking power. The same thing can happen in a car with manual transmission gears, when the clutch is worn out, the force does not reach the wheels.

What you can do (automatic and manual):

Automatic transmission:

  • Check gear oil after the engine reaches operating temperature(drive or idle for 20 minutes or more).
  • Stop the engine and leave it for three to five minutes.
  • Then pull the transmission oil dipstick.
  • Use a rag to wipe the tip of the dipstick with oil.
  • Insert the dipstick completely into its tube and pull the dipstick out again.
  • Allow the dipstick to remain horizontal on the rag.
  • The oil level should be between the ADD and FULL marks towards the end of the dipstick. Otherwise, add the required amount of the recommended fluid for your vehicle model.
  • Check the fluid. It should have a clear reddish color. If the color is opaque and brownish or black, or has a burnt smell, replace it. Refer to your vehicle's owner's manual or repair manual.

Manual transmission:

  • Park in a safe place, away from traffic and people
  • Install emergency brake
  • Start the engine
  • Set the gear to high gear
  • Slowly release the clutch pedal completely for two seconds (to avoid burning the clutch disc or flywheel) and press the clutch pedal again
  • If the clutch is ok, the engine should stall or stop as soon as you release the clutch
  • If the clutch is bad, your engine will continue to run normally.

Typically, water and acid are the most common enemies of a car exhaust system. But contamination, system overheating and high mileage may result in airflow restriction.

The most common victim of exhaust system restriction is. In addition to failure or destruction due to normal wear and tear, internal catalytic components can melt due to overheating and contamination.

Once the catalytic converter shuts down, you will notice a decrease in engine performance and, depending on the type of failure, strong smell rotten eggs coming out of the exhaust pipe.

But the problems may not stop there.

What you can do:

Check your exhaust system for high back pressure.

Temperature test:

  • After driving for about 15 minutes, park the car in the garage and turn off the engine.
  • Raise the vehicle and securely support it on jack stands.
  • Using a kitchen thermometer, measure the temperature of the inlet pipe at catalytic converter(be careful, temperatures may exceed 1400F).
  • Take a reading of the exhaust pipe temperature at the catalytic converter.
  • A clear difference in temperature indicates a connected converter.

Rattle Test:
Depending on the type of converter installed and the type of fault, if the catalytic elements inside the converter have broken down, the converter will rattle when struck with a rubber hammer.

Pressure test:

  • Remove the oxygen sensor in front of the converter.
  • Install the pressure gauge into the threaded hole.
  • Start the engine.
  • Take pressure readings at idle and at higher speeds.
  • High pressure readings indicate a connected converter or muffler.
  • Disconnect the muffler and repeat the test to find the obstruction.

Vacuum test:

  • Connect a vacuum gauge to the vacuum hose going to the brake booster.
  • At idle, open and close the throttle valve, allowing the engine to reach about 2500 rpm.
  • You should see the pressure gauge needle go down to almost zero, should return to the previous reading of about 5 inches of mercury (in inches of mercury), and return to the previous reading. If the needle returns too slowly to its previous reading, your exhaust system may be faulty.

Worn cylinders or rings will reduce engine compression.

Compression

Poor acceleration can also be the cause of engine compression problems. These problems are inevitable on high mileage engines or those with a history of poor maintenance. And as the miles accumulate, more engine power is lost due to wear on the cylinders, rings and pistons, and carbon buildup around the valves. Rebuilding an engine can be necessary and expensive.

  • Lock the throttle valve in the open position.
  • Disconnect the ignition system and fuel system (with electronic injection fuel).
  • Connect a pressure gauge to one of the spark plug holes.
  • And crank the engine for about six compression strokes.
  • Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders.
  • Then compare the needle movement characteristics and pressure readings to the specifications.
  • Your vehicle repair manual can help you pass this test.

    Final thoughts

    You can avoid many low power problems and many other problems by following a proper regular maintenance schedule. The ignition and fuel systems are often the main culprits when the engine doesn't turn over, but a number of components in other systems can also cause the same problem. This guide will help you find the source of the problem, fix it, and save money.

    Categories:// from 08.08.2019
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