Chevrolet lacetti replacing the heating radiator with a copper one. How to change the heater radiator of a Niva Chevrolet car yourself: step-by-step instructions with photos and videos. Causes of interior heater malfunction

In late autumn, during frequent fishing trips, my ShNivka began to delight me with constantly fogging up windows, a sweetish taste in my mouth and the unique aromas of evaporating antifreeze in the cabin. For some time I tried to convince myself that this phenomenon was temporary, that the machine would soon pull itself together and fix itself. I really didn’t want to take all sorts of erotic poses on the street in the cold, and even up to my elbows in cold antifreeze. But antifreeze not only began to evaporate into the cabin, but also began to noticeably leave the expansion tank. Over the course of a week I had to add 0.5 liters and this meant that it would not go away on its own. Fighting fear and anticipating the inevitable outcome of my curiosity, I went to look at a possible swamp under the noise and thermal insulation in the area of ​​the passenger’s feet. He unscrewed the sills, raised all the rugs, lowered all the rugs, blinked, rubbed his eyes, raised the rugs again. The swamp under the rugs has not gone away, it is here, before my eyes, which means I will still have to deal with this problem.

On one of the beautiful autumn evenings, when the weather was warm and the thermometer warmed up to +5 degrees, I trudged to my Niva, convincing myself that I was there for 30 minutes, that most likely the clamp on the stove had just loosened or had dried out. and the heater hose cracked, because the machine is already 9 years old. Having unscrewed all the screws of the glove compartment, with shaking hands and hope in my heart, I pulled it out of the car and looked at the stove pipes. They were dry, which means that the problem is still in the heater radiator itself and that 30 minutes will not get rid of it. This was confirmed by drops of antifreeze hanging at the junction of the heater radiator and the heater body.

Sad, I trudged home to read forums and smart books. And the books told me that I wouldn’t see any fishing in the next couple of days, but would have to deal with disassembly dashboard and removing the stove. But it’s good that there are forums where smart Shnivovody have already fully mastered the procedure for replacing valves through exhaust pipe, not to mention the banal replacement of the heater core without removing the dashboard.

I note that I have a Chevrolet Niva without air conditioning, and this circumstance greatly simplifies the procedure for replacing the heater radiator. When carrying out work to replace the stove radiator, I needed the following items:

I unscrewed all the screws of the glove compartment and panel. I moved the glove compartment away so it wouldn't get in the way.

And here is the stove radiator itself.

Access to the heater core is obstructed by the lower air duct. It needs to be removed.

I covered the space from the stove to the rug with a plastic bag so that the antifreeze would not flow onto the carpet but would drain onto the rug. To be on the safe side, I stuffed a stack of newspapers under the rug.

I loosened the clamp of the lower heater radiator hose and placed a cut piece under it. plastic bottle and pulled the hose off the pipe. About half a liter of antifreeze leaked out. Some of it, of course, spilled past the bottle.

This issue was resolved by biting off a corner on the radiator housing that abutted the air duct. After that, the radiator came out to almost its entire length, but this time it rested against the cover of the relay block (this is a plastic thing above the brains). It is secured with just one 8 nut. I unscrewed it and removed the cover. After that, the radiator came out easily and naturally.

This is what the inside of the stove looked like. Streaks and drops of antifreeze are visible.

And here is the stove radiator itself, the culprit of all this disgrace.

I installed the heater radiator in the reverse order. I first covered the radiator around the perimeter with a thin strip of foam rubber. I used regular Moment glue. I let the glue dry for an hour.

Using a file found in the garage, I sawed off the plastic corner on the new heater radiator so that it would not interfere with the installation.

Due to the presence of foam rubber, the radiator did not slip through so easily this time. I had to apply sufficient force and thoroughly press the radiator to the air duct. No matter how hard I tried or was careful, I still tore off half a strip of foam rubber from the bottom of the radiator. I didn’t want to take it out and re-glue it and decided to leave it like that. Moreover, some part of the torn off strip still remained on the radiator.

Well, then for about 30 minutes I pulled the upper tube onto the pipe. Very inconvenient. In the end, I took a teaspoon and, using a handle (it was quite thin and not sharp), like a mounting tool, put the hose on the pipe. I pulled the second pipe on much faster, because now I had a miracle spoon.

Tightened the clamps and screwed in the screws securing the heater radiator. I added antifreeze to the expansion tank. I put a clean newspaper under the stove (there is enough space for this) as a marker for antifreeze leakage. And so I drove for a couple of days in my beloved Niva. The paper remained clean, which means the problem has been resolved.

Completed the assembly. I put all the plastic in place and screwed on the glove compartment.

Now all that remains is to solve the problem with the noise-thermal insulation on the floor soaked in antifreeze. Partially removed the moisture using constantly updated newspapers. Antifreeze no longer leaks out of the Shumka, but it still remains quite wet. I'll wait for it to warm up and take off the Shumka for washing.

Sooner or later the heater radiator may need to be replaced Chevrolet Niva with air conditioning. This is due to the tendency for this element to maintain a normal microclimate in the cabin to break down. After all, gone are the days when AvtoVAZ’s creations were equipped with copper radiators, they were essentially eternal. Aluminum parts are now being installed, which does not have the best effect on the operating life of the stove.

At the same time, many drivers are afraid to do renovation work independently and turn to services. They don’t like this work there, because the volume is large, not very comparable with the pay, and they often do it not very well. In this regard, it is advisable to make the replacement yourself.

Symptoms of a problem

Replacing the radiator of a Chevrolet Niva stove with air conditioning is quite a difficult job, but at the same time it can be done independently. Just first you need to determine whether the cause is really in the heater radiator. Symptoms of malfunction are as follows:

• Poor operation of the stove;
• Regular lack of fluid in the heating system;
• (not always);
• A puddle of greasy liquid under the driver's mat (at the same time, read the article).

Tool. This work does not require any special tools; almost everything you need can be found in a regular set of keys. You will also need 2 screwdrivers (slotted and Phillips) and pliers. And also a box for screws. In addition, you can stock up on markers.

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Replacement

There are 2 ways to change the heater on a Chevrolet Niva with air conditioning. They differ in the speed of execution and the additional work required to complete the action:

• Without removing the dashboard. In this case, the air conditioner will have to be depressurized, which will require its subsequent refilling with refrigerant;
• With removal. This method does not cause damage to the air conditioner, but is longer in execution.

Conclusion. Drivers often face the problem of heating the interior. Which is not surprising. After all, the heater operates in a very difficult mode. Therefore, it often fails. Then you will need to replace the Chevrolet Niva heater radiator with air conditioning. This work is simple, but painstaking. It is important to do everything as carefully as possible, otherwise you will have to refill the air conditioner.

As you know, the performance of the stove greatly contributes to more comfortable driving. Especially when it comes to the cold season. One of the main components of any heating system in the car, there is a radiator device, so every car enthusiast should monitor its performance. How to replace a Chevrolet Lanos heater radiator and how to determine if the device is faulty - find out in this article.

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Criteria for choosing a stove radiator

First, let's talk about what to look for when buying a radiator device for Lanos, Cruze and Lacetti cars:

As practice shows, the design of this product is usually not particularly reliable, especially when it comes to radiator devices in Lanos. Often the device mounting brackets break, causing the product to leak cold air and, accordingly, does not heat the interior well. In this case, the nominal temperature level will decrease, so even when the regulator is set to the most powerful heating, cool air will enter the cabin.

In addition to broken brackets, the product must be replaced in the following cases:

• if the device is clogged (you can try to wash it, but this usually does not help);
• if the product is damaged, which contributes to the leakage of coolant;
• if there is a problem with the thermostat.

Before making a replacement, it is necessary to eliminate all factors that could affect the performance of the heating system. For example, you need to check the pipes and hoses for leaks. If you notice that the volume of antifreeze in the expansion tank has decreased, or streak spots have appeared under the bottom of the car, then it is necessary to diagnose the pipeline. Failed pipes that show signs of damage need to be replaced (the author of the video is Ruslan Iskhakov).

Removal and replacement instructions

Let's look at the process of replacing a device using the example of a Chevrolet Lacetti:

1. To begin with, the center console is dismantled, there is nothing complicated about it - you just need to unscrew all the bolts that secure it, and then remove the console from its mounts.
2. Then all attachments are removed from the console, in particular, the glove box, plastic inserts, you also need to disconnect the cables from the heater dampers and dismantle the central trim. Also remove the glove box and the backlight control module, the optics regulator, and the clock. When disconnecting elements, it is advisable to label all connectors with wiring; this will allow assembly to prevent errors during connection.
3. Then you will need a long wrench, as well as a ratchet wrench with 10 and 12 heads, and a Phillips head screwdriver. Also note that you will need a new thread lock to assemble the center console, so purchase one in advance.
4. Some center consoles are fixed to the beam from the inside, this can cause inconvenience when dismantling the torpedo. There is a self-tapping screw there, you will have to unscrew it anyway. All fastening elements of the center console to the beam are unscrewed. To dismantle the console, you need to lift it slightly and then remove it. You will also need to disconnect all the clamps of the chips that secure the wires to the beam.
5. Next, on the right and left sides you will need to unscrew three screws, with which the beam is fixed to the car body. Also in the area where the steering column is fixed to the body, you can see six more bolts; these also need to be unscrewed.
6. Then the beam is dismantled. Having done this, you can begin to remove the heater control module.
7. There is nothing difficult about removing the module. You will need to unscrew two screws in the car interior, which secure the heater module to the block in which the air conditioner evaporative device with a filter element is installed.
8. Then in engine compartment it is necessary to disconnect the two hoses that are connected to the radiator assembly. You should also unscrew the four screws securing the heater module to the car body.
9. Next, the module itself is dismantled, after which you can easily remove the radiator device. To disassemble the module, you need to unscrew ten more screws. A new radiator is being installed.

Photo gallery “Replacing the radiator yourself”

Price issue

The cost of radiators today varies around 2-3 thousand rubles on average.

The phenomenon of glass fogging, the appearance of a non-perfume smell in the cabin, and a sensation of a sweetish taste are among the first signs of a malfunction of the heater radiator. The reason for this is a violation of the tightness of the connections, the appearance of antifreeze leaks with a characteristic odor.

The location of the radiator is marked with an arrow

In addition to the pump, the heating system also includes a heat exchanger (radiator). It is located in the center of the instrument panel and can be seen visually.

The heater radiator is located in the footwells to the left of the passenger

Causes of malfunctions

The heater radiator is leaking

Long-term use of a car inevitably leads to:

• Appearance: traces of antifreeze under the driver's mat, a specific smell, a (greasy) coating on the glass. Insufficient interior heating.
• The need for frequent filling with antifreeze expansion tank.

Radiator replacement process

In the process of replacing the radiator

Self-replacement The radiator is installed with a set of tools, including a flat and Phillips screwdriver, pliers, and small sockets (8, 10, 14).

Preliminarily: the terminal leading to ground is disconnected. It is better to remove the ignition key. It is advisable to start the process after 2–3 minutes in order to completely discharge the reserve capacitor.

Drain the antifreeze

Adhering to the stage of preparatory operations, antifreeze is drained from the heating system.

Unscrew the lid

The usual option for draining the antifreeze is offered, which involves removing the bottom bolt and opening the expansion tank cap.

The second alternative method is performed by opening the reservoir cap and disconnecting the throttle body cooling tube. In place of the tube, another hose is inserted through which the antifreeze is drained. To speed up the process, the barrel can be purged to remove any remaining liquid.

Technology without removing the instrument panel

The basis for replacing the heat exchanger is the experience of drivers, which allows one to eliminate complex procedures for dismantling the dashboard.

Disassembly steps:

1. The so-called glove compartment and the passenger (leg) heating duct are removed by unscrewing the self-tapping screw.

   

   Glove compartment removed

2. Loosen the clamp, remove the rubber tube, and drain the remaining liquid into a pre-prepared container. The upper clamp is loosened and the pipe is pulled towards itself.
3. The radiator, after removing two screws, pulls out until it hits the air duct.
4. The nut securing the relay cover is unscrewed and then removed. It is visually noticeable how the corner of the plastic frame of the heat exchanger prevents the removal of the radiator.

   

   Bolt location

5. Use wire cutters (side cutters) to bite off the interfering piece of plastic.

   

   For clarity, the photo is on the new radiator. Without removing this piece, the radiator cannot be put on

6. The outer edges of the new radiator along the perimeter are covered (“moment”) with thin strips of foam rubber. This is done to prevent air from penetrating through the cracks.

   

   Covering the edge of the radiator with foam rubber to prevent air from entering

As when dismantling the old unit, the frame of the new radiator with a cut off corner is inserted into the standard socket.

Video with replacement without removing the panel

Equipment with air conditioning

Dismantling the heater radiator is complicated if the car is equipped with air conditioning. The operation is painstaking, but ingenuity and curiosity greatly simplify the process.

During the replacement process, you will need to remove the air conditioner evaporator

Of the existing two methods of replacing a stove radiator, the preferable option is to remove the instrument panel. The process guarantees the safety of the air conditioner. In another case, it becomes necessary to break its seal and then refill it with freon.

Removing the panel involves steps identical to the procedure for removing a heat exchanger without an air conditioner. With some exceptions:

1. The battery terminal is disconnected and the antifreeze is drained into the prepared container. The barrel should be purged so that all the liquid flows out.
2. The bolts are unscrewed, and the radio tape recorder is removed along with the slide. After unscrewing the screws (self-tapping screws), they are removed side panels, instrument panel. At the same time, do not forget to remove the fastening buttons. Having released the latches, we move the panel to the right and a little towards ourselves, freeing it from the grooves.
3. It is advisable to mark the chips and connectors with a marker, which will speed up the assembly process. By unscrewing, the bolts are released, as well as the torpedo itself. o Having freed the side shield, the steering wheel casing, the control unit is removed. The backlight connector is disconnected.
4. The steering column and the shield mounts (from below) are unscrewed and the spacer is dismantled.
5. The panel amplifier is disconnected (4 bolts).
6. Having released the fan mounts, the stove is removed along with the air conditioner and amplifier. The bolts securing the latter to the body are also unscrewed.

So, the stove is free after removing the tee from it. So that during assembly there are no extra fasteners, adhere to a strict, reverse sequence.

Conviction that the radiator is faulty comes after checking the supply pipes, pipes, and hoses for leaks.

The final stage of work

The tubes are mounted in the reverse order, the clamps are attached, and the expansion tank bolt is screwed on. The barrel is filled with antifreeze and after several days of operating the machine, the liquid level in the tank is monitored. The absence of smudges, odor and warm comfort in the cabin will be a reason to replace the glove box.

May it be necessary to replace the heater radiator on Shnivy? If antifreeze started leaking. However, the matter can only be done by replacing the pipes, but it is definitely worth checking whether the radiator is leaking. It is very possible to change a stove radiator with your own hands, although you will have to tinker a lot.

Where is the Chevrolet Niva heater radiator located?

Access to the heater radiator is located in the cabin, behind the glove compartment. It is located in the niche on the left at the passenger's feet. Before removing it, you will need to drain the antifreeze from the block so that less liquid spills out when dismantling the pipes.

How to change a Chevrolet Niva heater radiator

To change the heater radiator, you will need to completely remove the glove compartment by unscrewing all the screws and disconnecting the wire connectors. Then drain the antifreeze from the block and from the pipes that go to the stove. The antifreeze will still remain in the pipes in the cabin (but there will be less of it) and in order not to stain the interior, you need to put something under them before removing it.

After dismantling the pipes, you need to unscrew the screws securing the heater radiator in the niche and remove the radiator. Then install tightly new radiator, tighten the screws and install new pipes. This instruction in video format will demonstrate in more detail how to replace the heater radiator on a Chevrolet Niva.