Assemble the running lights control unit. Features of the DRL control unit. Special cases of installing DRLs

Universal block automatic switching on DRL (DRL).
The main advantage is ease of installation. It is enough to connect this unit to the battery (-/+) and to the consumer (for example, to LED running lights yam).
When you start the engine, the DRLs turn on automatically, and when you stop, they turn off; when you turn on the headlights/lower lights, they dim by 50%. Day control unit running lights can be purchased in our online store website

Specifications:

  • Dimensions: 4.2x1.8x2 cm
  • Cable length: 60cm
  • Wiring length 8 cm.
  • Voltage to turn on the unit: 13.4V
  • Voltage to turn off the unit: 12.98V

Make sure that your car/motorcycle/special equipment produces at least 13V when the engine is running
on idling (a working battery and generator should not produce less than 13.4V at 12V on-board network)

1 block per pair of DRLs

1 year warranty

Connection:

2. Connect the wires from DRL to the black and red wires from the DRL controller where black is “-” and red is “+”. If you have a set DRL with turn signal in the regular place of the lamp Only the red (+) wire is used. We simply isolate the negative one.

3. From the side where there are terminals and a fuse on the controller, connect the wires to the battery where the black “-” and red “+” are.

5. Isolate all connections.


**Connecting a relay to turn off the DRL when the lights are turned on (diagram)




I once made a system for a car, not mine. So, this system determined the fact that the engine was running by the presence of pulses on the ignition coil. And during the manufacturing process, the idea occurred to me that this solution would also be well suited for managing daytime running lights ( further DRL) car.

DRL I also wanted to do this for a long time, but I never got around to it...

Start

Original circuit DRL was on 555 -timer, and tried to control it first DRL, but no matter how hard I tried to get the desired operating algorithm from the timer, I was unable to do so. Then I decided to do it on MK, the question became what to do with, my favorite ATmega8 for such a thing, well, it’s clearly too much, but there were no other small MKs from Atmel in stock, and in local stores too, and they are expensive, even small ones.
But I found it PIC12F629, small, 8 legs in total, and relatively inexpensive. It’s just that I haven’t talked to PIC yet, but for the sake of such a thing I had to start studying, and at the same time I made a programmer PICkit-2 lite.


Read about my version of the PICkit-2 USB programmer on Datagor in the near future


The scheme is very simple. Linear stabilizer, the current consumption is small so there is no need for a more advanced stabilizer. For inputs, dividers in accordance with the input signal and transistor switches, for reliability, just in case. Output field effect transistor, which commutes the standard automotive relay with an operating current of no more than 200 mA, something like this

Work algorithm

Algorithm of work - don’t blame me, I made it based on my management ideas DRL.
  • When the ignition is turned on, power is supplied to the circuit and it begins to monitor whether the engine is running by the presence of pulses on the ignition coil
  • If there are continuous pulses on the ignition coil for 5 seconds DRL turn on
  • With a continuous absence of pulses on the ignition coil (the engine has stalled, but the ignition is on) for 5 seconds DRL turn off
  • When turning on the dimensions DRL turn off immediately, regardless of other conditions
  • When the lights are turned off and there are pulses on the ignition coil DRL turn on immediately

Connecting the DRL unit in a car

The connection diagram is also quite simple:
  • Power - taken from any point where it appears when the ignition is turned on
  • Pulses indicating engine operation can be taken from the ignition coil or from the tachometer
  • Signal for turning on the headlights - from any point where +12V appears when the lights are turned on
  • To the output - any standard automotive relay with a current consumption of no more than 200 mA for a voltage of 12V and a switching current of 30-40A is connected, so that you can switch any load directly, even individual DRL, at least standard headlights.
  • Common wire respectively to the body
Since individual DRL I don’t have one, I connected the relay in parallel with the standard low beam control relay, but even in this version it’s minus 4 light bulbs and minus the whole dashboard, some kind of savings, but still savings. But in the same way you can connect separate DRL.

PCB

I somehow skipped the prototyping and testing stage. I just simulated the circuit in Proteus. Everything worked as expected, so I decided to immediately make the board, wired it to DipTrace, modeled 3D (view from both sides):

Then I did it live (view from both sides):

Final assembly option

I decided not to bother with the case, I took a ready-made automotive relay of suitable size:


I threw out the internals, this relay, in principle, already had a connector, but it was 5-pin, and 6 were needed, and the contacts were made inconveniently, so I threw out the standard ones and attached a regular car connector using hot-melt glue, removed the housing from the switching relay, and connected it all , it turned out like this:


The board was varnished with CRAMOLIN ISOTEMP (a heat-resistant, moisture-repellent and waterproof protective coating based on silicone). Although the board is varnished, I put heat shrink on it just in case.


We insert the whole thing into the body.


The relay cover is actually latched, but just in case, I applied hot glue to the joint and clicked it into place. Now to open it you will need to break it, but it will be sealed.

Results

As a result, we have an almost proprietary relay that can be screwed in any convenient place.
Another positive aspect of this design: the entire connection diagram is made in parallel to the standard circuit, i.e. in the event of a failure (breakdown), it is enough to just disconnect the connector from the relay and the entire system will operate as normal.

The DRL control unit allows you to use high beam devices as the most optimal - 30-40% - by converting the brightness. Due to the low luminous power and the specific direction of the luminous flux, the headlights do not blind pedestrians and oncoming drivers. Also, moving during daylight hours with running lights on is one of the traffic rules requirements.

Advantages of using DRL:

  • The system begins automatic operation after the engine starts.
  • The brightness of the light, as well as some modes (for example, delayed start) are programmable.
  • All settings are saved in the device memory.
  • The lamps light up smoothly.
  • When using the system, normal high beam operation is maintained.
  • The DRL control unit turns off automatically when the side lights or high beams are turned on, as well as when the parking brake is applied.

The system operates in two modes - winter and summer. The block is used in the headlight circuit with incandescent lamps.

DRL selection

All car lighting devices must comply with standards. In addition, only reliable systems can be installed on a vehicle. The most popular among them are Philips DRL control units. Before purchasing, you should pay attention to the quality of the case, service life and operation of the devices.

The package must include:

  • Instructions.
  • Fastening elements.
  • Connecting wires.

Branded lamps emit daylight (that is, their color range is 5000-6000 K). At night, running lights can complement the role of side lights.

It should be remembered that low beam should only be used at night. It is prohibited to use DRL separately at dusk or night time.

Installation of running lights

  1. To begin with, measurements are taken and the installation location of the lights on the vehicle is determined. Most navigation lights are recommended to be installed at a distance of 350 to 1500 mm from the surface level. The distance from the side of the car to the headlight must be at least 400 mm. The distance between the inner edges of the surface of the lamps is at least 600 mm. During the installation process, it is very important to correctly determine the installation angle of the flashlight mounting bracket. The horizontal tilt angle should not exceed 10 ◦.
  2. After the measurements, it is necessary to remove the grille from the car and fix the mounting brackets of the lights on it. These elements can be installed above or below the bumper without needing to remove it.
  3. The DRL control unit is connected through a mounting bracket. At this stage, under no circumstances should the lights be inserted into the bracket.
  4. Next, you should place the control unit in engine compartment. The most suitable place is near the battery. The block is connected according to a primitive scheme: the red wire is connected to the positive terminal, the black wire to the negative terminal. The orange wire is connected to the low beam or lights. The success of the operation will be indicated by an indicator - blue light means that the connection is correct.
  5. After completing the previous stages, the lights are connected to the control unit.
  6. First, you should secure the control unit, and then secure the flashlight to the mounting bracket. When finished, you need to secure the wires and install the grille with the lantern in place.

for some car models

Some cars are equipped with daytime running lights. For example, in the DRL control unit for the Opel Astra-N, daytime running lights are equipped with plugs fog lights. The main difference between the system in this vehicle is the absence of these same light fog devices.

Opel's daytime running lights are equipped with LEDs. It is also possible to use them at night in conjunction with main lighting.

Such devices have a long service life. The DRL can be connected to the ignition system or mounted directly into the lighting starting system.

It is possible to install running lights on a bumper or radiator mesh.

Characteristics of board-based running lights

The principle of operation of the DRL control unit on Arduino is as follows: when the automatic mode is turned on, the lighting devices start and turn off automatically. After receiving a signal from the tachometer, the “automatic” mode is switched on, the side lights and the diode light up. After the signal disappears (after 10 seconds), the mode turns off and the lights go out.

When a signal from the speed sensor appears, the lights (DRL or low beam) turn on. After the signal disappears, they turn off (after about 2 minutes).

When the unit is turned on, the integrity of the low beam lamps, as well as the voltage on board, is monitored. The processes are accompanied by light and sound alarm(they can be disabled in the control panel). When the turn signals are connected, a special sound signal will be created.

Components of daytime lights and possibilities of their use

The standard kit contains:

  • DRL control unit controller.
  • 2 LED chains.
  • Recommendations for installation and use.
  • Connecting elements.

Some tapes, for example 8-diode ones, can be used at any time of the day. When the main light is turned on, the strips do not go out, but switch to side lighting mode. Due to their small size, they can be easily mounted even on compact cars. The built-in indicator will prompt you about the need to perform a particular action.

The color temperature of 8-diode strips is 6000 K.

Important! When choosing DRLs, you should pay attention to the quality of workmanship, because non-original copies can harm the safety of the driver and others.

Special cases of installing DRLs

For vehicles where the manufacturer does not provide a standard option for installing the DRL control unit, special options are selected:

  • Installation in the headlight.
  • Bumper mounting.
  • Mounting on the radiator grille.

The above methods apply to almost everyone. vehicles. When installing, the operating standards for navigation lights are taken into account.

The first method is the most labor-intensive. To install the lights, the headlight is completely removed and disassembled, then installation is performed. Once completed, the entire kit is installed in place.

When installed in a bumper, spotlights are most often used. Installation is carried out using the cutting-in method.

Attaching lights to a radiator grill is a very complex process. When installing DRLs, it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the housing. In addition, do not forget about the standards - the distances between the headlights must be observed.

How to make lights with your own hands?

To create a DRL control unit with your own hands, you need to purchase:

  • LED strip.
  • Aluminum plates.

The manufacturing process consists of the following steps:

  1. First you need to disassemble the headlights.
  2. Next, soften the sealant and separate the glass from the platform.
  3. After disassembly, tint the windows.
  4. Upon completion of disassembly, disconnect the wires, bar, diffuser, glass, and housing.
  5. Substrates for LEDs are cut from the plates.
  6. The finished plates are attached to the inner body of the diffuser using sealant.
  7. Light elements are made from LED strip.
  8. The finished tapes are attached to silicone sealant, after which soldering is performed.
  9. At the end of the process, tinted glass is attached.
  10. Diffusers are produced by casting epoxy resin or milling plexiglass.

What should I pay attention to when installing?

When installing homemade block DRL management should pay attention to the following stages:

  • Alteration of the standard circuit for switching on lighting devices to start upon ignition (for this you can use thyristors of any type. The main criterion is permissible current- 0.3 A, while the power should be 0.25 W and the resistance should be 10 kOhm).
  • Mandatory dismantling of the zero contact of the relay winding, which is responsible for raising the windows.
  • Insulation of the dismantled contact.
  • Its connection to the power window relay coil.
  • Installation of the circuit in the relay housing.

The correct setting is one in which the running lights turn on simultaneously with the engine starting. The norm is for the lights to fade out some time after the car stops.

Features of lighting system controllers

  • The 8 in 1 DRL control unit controller provides control of the system without driver intervention.
  • Its installation does not require connection to sensors, relays, etc.
  • The controller automatically adapts to the characteristics of the vehicle.
  • It is also equipped with protection against short circuit and excess current in the load circuit, arbitrary shutdown when increased loads.
  • Model range provides versions for 12 and 24 V. Suitable for all types of cars.
  • A robust housing, reliable sealing and the use of high-quality connections ensure reliability and durability.
  • Long-term operation is achieved by the absence of rapidly aging elements.

Important! Before purchasing a DRL unit, you should familiarize yourself with technical characteristics car. In some cases, traffic regulations prohibit the installation and operation of additional lighting devices. The installation of colored running lights is also not permitted.

Improper installation can have a negative impact on the car's electronics.

Daytime running lights (unit DRL) – automatic control:

  • Light turns on and off automatically
  • Smooth lamp power control
  • Resource saving halogen lamps
  • Fuel economy

To control lighting devices, we have developed and produced: Mercury headlight controller, DRL controller "Eclipse" And headlight relay "Prometheus"

DRL control unit"Eclipse" is designed to automatically turn on dimly low or high beam halogen headlights of a car in accordance with current regulations traffic RF.

LEDs are very promising, but today's cheap versions do not comply with technical regulations. The design of expensive versions of LED, including car headlights, is quite complicated:

Why do we need DRLs based on standard halogen headlights?

But really, why? There are tons of LED DRLs out there, right?

1. First, let's look at cheap LED DRLs. If we do this carefully, it turns out that they are not suitable for us either in terms of luminosity area or aperture ratio. In addition, most of them have a blue tint, and installing blue light devices in front of the car entails deprivation of rights for up to 6 months...

2. Let's choose expensive LED-DRLs. The question immediately arises: where to put them to make it beautiful? Of course, they are installed on any car, but there is often no regular place for them. And the front part of any car is carefully made design work, installing additional elements will very likely destroy the image of the car. We ourselves see on the road how ridiculous an oncoming expensive car with a Chinese garland looks...

3. Price. Let us find a worthy place to install expensive LED-DRLs. But the installation itself requires several standard hours in a car service center. Which is also not cheap.

4. Installing a DRL controller based on standard headlights does not change the design of the car and is much easier to implement. In the same car service, this is 0.5 standard hours.

The version of the high beam headlights lighting at a quarter power (mechanical re-switching of the lamps in series) is the most common version of DRLs in the world with wiring installed in this way as standard. But doing this electrical wiring “from scratch” takes several standard hours...

Feature DRL control unit"Eclipse" is smooth power control of halogen lamps.

DRL control unit can be installed on any types of Russian and foreign cars.


For this purpose in DRL block universal inputs and outputs are provided. The headlights in these cars can be permanently connected to both ground and battery power. Shutdown DRL unit can be carried out both low and high level voltage. Most parameters DRL unit can be changed by the user without the use of any additional equipment.

Compared to common car light delay timers DRL unit"Eclipse" has adjustable lamp power and a lot of additional features.

Purpose DRL unit

  • U ease of use with DRL unit . Daylight car turns on and off automatically, thereby eliminating driver forgetfulness. The Eclipse DRL control unit will pay for itself on the first fine saved for turning off the headlights. When installing the DRL unit on the main beam of the headlights, glare of oncoming traffic is eliminated, and at the rear, the brake lights become much more visible, since there is no illumination from the dimensions.
  • The DRL unit saves the life of halogen lamps. Soft start and working at full volume sharply increase the operating time of halogen lamps. Switching to the standard switching on of low or high beam also occurs on already warmed up lamps and the likelihood of lamp burnout is significantly reduced compared to a “cold” switch on from the standard headlight relay. There is a widespread belief on the Internet that sharp shock heating with halogen is beneficial. This opinion was formed by advertising articles of lamp manufacturers, but if you read these articles carefully, then they talk about turning off lamps and the processes of crystallization-hardening of filaments associated with cooling.
  • Fuel economy. Reducing the power consumption of lamps and turning off “extra” side lights leads to a decrease in the load on the generator and a decrease in fuel consumption. The specific value is not so important, at least it is an extra tank of gas for the year. And by the way, what important(!), at idle with theDRL unit The battery is charging, but with full low beam the battery is discharged!

Design DRL unit

B lok DRL It is optimally placed near the vehicle mounting block or on a harness suitable for it. Both engine compartment and interior locations are possible.

The appearance of the Eclipse Daytime Running Lights is a board placed in a heat-shrinkable tube, smaller than a gas lighter. The main type of fastening is with plastic clamps to the wiring harness.

Modifications DRL unit

New versions of 2015 have three blocking inputs and are separated by the polarity of the switched wire.

  • "Eclipse-A" - version for switching the "positive" wire.
  • "Eclipse-K" - version for switching the negative wire.

Universal version for both “plus” and “minus” since 2015. no, she didn't justify herself. It is the Eclipse-A and Eclipse-K versions that work more reliably

Installation DRL control unit

Find out which wire to the headlight connects standard system can be done as follows. With the headlight off but the ignition on, you need to use a tester to measure the voltage at any of the headlight terminals relative to ground. If the tester shows +12V, then the headlight is switched with a ground wire. If it shows 0V, then it is the “positive” wire.

Wires connected to the Eclipse-A DRL control unit

  1. “+12V” wire, power supply for lamps connected to ground. It can be connected either directly to the battery (via a fuse, of course) or after the ignition switch. When the ignition is turned off, there is practically no current through this wire.
  2. “Ignition” wire, low-current power supply to the device itself and information about the fact that the ignition is turned on.
  3. The ground wire, the low-current power supply of the device itself, is always connected first during installation and disconnected last.
  4. Wire “on”, input signal, for example, about a running engine (“oil pressure” or “generator bias”). If you do not want to use this wire, it can be combined with the ignition wire.
  5. Two “off” wires, allowing DRL operation at a high level (by supplying a “plus”), and two “off” wires, allowing operation low level voltage (“mass”). It is convenient to connect these inputs to signals indicating that the car is parked (“handbrake”), or that the headlights are turned on normally. You can use other connection points or not connect them at all, except for one.

Examples of installation diagrams DRL unit(Priora, Honda, Suzuki, Kia, Honda):

Comparison of the luminosity of the high beam, Eclipse DRL (30%) and low beam:

Operation of the Eclipse DRL on video:

Switching high beam headlights by changing the standard electrical wiring.

Almost all American and Scandinavian cars come with standard wiring, which allows a toggle switch (relay) to switch the high beam lamps from a parallel connection to a serial one. When turned on, the power of the lamps is approximately a third of the standard one.

In principle, nothing prevents us from modifying the wiring in our cars. Only in this case the standard wiring changes, at least slightly.

Normally the high beam headlights (DH) are connected like this:

The wiring from the mounting block can be either in separate harnesses or in one common one:

In both cases, a relay is inserted into the ground wire of one of the lamps, which, when turned off, switches the lamp instead of ground to “plus”. The relay is triggered either by the voltage of the dimensions, or by the total signal from the DS and BS.

For the first case, this one relay will be enough. But the circuit is bad in that it leaves the standard light relay attached. Often you can’t do this; you need to study the car’s electrical circuit.

In the second case, it is better to use three relays (or one for three contact groups), two of which disconnect the headlights from the standard light relay. This option is electrically safe for standard equipment. It is also applicable in the first case, but there the relay will have to be placed in two places and connected with an additional wire, and this greatly increases the cost of installation.

In any case, updating the electrical wiring takes a couple of standard service hours.

Passport DRL unit

Passport of DRL "Eclipse-A"

Passport of DRL "Eclipse-K" full version, produced since 2015

Today all new cars are equipped with daytime running lights, but not all cars have this type of optics, in particular, we are talking about cars of earlier production. The use of DRLs today is mandatory, and if the car is not equipped with these optics, this may cause a serious conversation with the inspector. Read more about how to build a DRL control unit with your own hands below.

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Characteristics of the DRL control unit

The daytime running lights control unit is a device that is part of electrical circuit this type of optics. This unit is designed to activate DRL under certain circumstances, depending on the optical connection diagram. Without the operation of this device, the operation of navigation lights is impossible, so this unit must always be in working order.

After ignition activation, voltage is supplied to the running lights control module itself. This module, in accordance with the presence of a signal on the ignition coil, starts a recognition procedure - whether the power unit is started or not. If a continuous signal begins to arrive from the coil, the optics automatically turns on. If the coil does not transmit a pulse to the board, then the module recognizes this as the fact that the engine is not working, for example, it could stall, but the ignition is on. Of course, in this case the daytime running lights will not work.

If the driver turns on the side lights in forced mode, the DRL control unit will automatically turn them off, regardless of other conditions. When the dimensions are turned off, but the coil still transmits a signal to the module, the running lights are activated and will continue to work (the author of the video is the GignViper channel).

DIY relay assembly guide

If you decide to build a daytime running lights control module for your car, you must understand that the procedure for making it yourself is not easy. This option is the most optimal for those car enthusiasts who have experience in electrical engineering and know how to solder and assemble electrical circuits. Naturally, the procedure for assembling a device with your own hands will cost much less in financially than purchasing a ready-made device. The advantage of the assembly diagram below is that even if it is separate in your car, you can connect the device to the low beam control module.

Photo gallery “Circuits and programmer for making a homemade block”

Most the best option the PIC12F629 processor will be used as the basis - its price is the most affordable. To program the module, you need to use a programmer, for example, PICkit-2 is suitable. The circuit itself is quite simple - it uses a linear stabilizing device, to the contacts of which dividers are connected to the incoming pulse. To ensure more stable operation, transistor switches have been added to the circuit. A transistor (field effect) is placed at the output of the device, which must be connected to a simple automobile transistor device, and the current should be no more than 200 mA.

The assembly procedure is carried out as follows:

  1. First the board needs to be modeled using any circuit design software. After this, it is necessary to develop a wiring diagram; if necessary, a 3D model is also designed.
  2. Then the housing into which the structure will be installed is selected. In this case, you can use a housing from a conventional machine relay. In this case, it is necessary that this relay be six-pin.
  3. To protect the module, the circuit itself will need to be varnished. For this purpose there are many various means Alternatively, you can use Cramolin Isotemp. This silicone product is used for insulation different schemes. If you want to ensure more reliable operation of the board, it can also be installed in a heat shrink tube.
  4. After the preparation procedure is completed, the existing relay will need to be installed in the prepared housing. As a rule, relays are equipped with housings with latches, so you should not have problems with reliable fastening.
  5. As for directly connecting the finished device, power for it can be taken from any point on the on-board network, the main thing is that this point is not far from the ignition key.
  6. Signals according to which the module can determine operation power unit, you can take it from the reel itself - this option is the most optimal.
  7. At the next stage, the headlight activation pulse can also be taken from any point, it is only necessary that in this area there is a 12-volt voltage from turning on the optics.
  8. After completing these steps, any relay should be connected to the module output, this will protect the electrical circuit. And although you can take any relay, it is important that the consuming current is no more than 200 mA at a twelve-volt voltage, and the output current should be about 30-40 amperes.
  9. The final step will be connecting the ground - as in other cases, the minus can be connected to the car body.

Video “Operation of the DRL unit under the control of the remote control”

How do daytime running lights work under remote control? remote control— look at the video below (the author of the video is Mary Babenkova).

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